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Give me a 1-2 hour and I’ll have a video up for you

Oh man, thank you that’ll help me a lot. Appreciate it so much.

And I will think this will help a lot of people out who lose the settings in their radio

@@rcsfinest1883 I found flywing original video on setting up your transmitter. ruclips.net/video/zpkp5G-IZyI/видео.htmlsi=Ixyn3nv1ceWLk2HP

Let me know if this video helps you out, but if you need to set up your servos directions for the squirrel, just send me a message and I’ll make that video for you.

@@rcsfinest1883 you’re just talking about the transmitter, correct?

@@rcrega7456 Thank you.

We are still working out the final details, but you will be able to see it in action soon.

I am considering 3-D printing a more rigid horizontal and vertical stabilizer to help reduce noise.

let me know what happens with that! I would really like to get this MD 500 but I’m not dealing with that annoying noise 🤣 Il get a different model if i dont find a solution to that hahahha

It’s still a beautiful helicopter though.

Sport mode can be used in GPS and 3-D modes. I have not tried ATTP mode yet because I cannot get it to work correctly with the flight controllers.

Yes, yours was the final third-generation version released to the market. Mine had 2.5-generation parts mixed with the new third-generation parts before they sold it.

Next video 6 bladed twin tail Blade 206 🤣🤣 j/k

Yes, and happy holidays to you! You'll see what the three-blader is for.

Maybe lol

Yes, the three-blade design sounds nice, and you’re going to love the four-blade because you can reduce the head speed, and it will still fly great.

@@pilotbowser9980 the gustibus not disputandum

I'm glad you figured it out. It's always wise to do a preflight check before takeoff to avoid any crashes.

The overheating issue arises because I disabled the failsafe, specifically the low power mode. I did this to ensure the camera operates with the helicopter. The reason for this is that the FPV camera isn't connected to a flight controller, which would normally manage the low power mode settings.

Yeah, the tail fin a little janky only time will tell.

I got a replacement from a subscriber that didn’t want his anymore.

I actually bought both heads, but I retired my four-blade head because it was defective. I still have part of the four-blade head, so I may convert it soon. Additionally, Flywing has released a four-blade head that you can swap in as well.

it’s the same they just reclassify it

I completed the Airwolf test and am currently putting the video together. I acquired a sound measuring device and used it while in hover mode to check for differences in noise levels. Additionally, I measured the wind to account for any noise variations.

Always double-check your connections, as sometimes the polarity can be reversed. For example, connect wire A from the ESC to terminal C on the motor, wire B from the ESC to terminal B on the motor, and wire C from the ESC to terminal A on the motor. This has only happened to me once when I purchased something from the factory, but usually, the tail motor spins in the correct direction. It’s also possible they gave me the wrong blade, which could cause it to spin in the wrong direction as well.

Yes.

1.Original Position (Right Side): When the tail rotor is positioned on the right side, the rotor blade closest to the fuselage often faces airflow obstruction. The fuselage creates turbulence and uneven airflow, which causes inefficient thrust generation and a high-pitched noise. The obstruction forces the rotor to work harder to maintain thrust, increasing the overall noise level and pitch. 2.Modified Position (Left Side): By relocating the tail motor and rotor to the left side, the blades experience less obstruction from the fuselage. This allows for smoother and more consistent airflow around the rotor. With less turbulent airflow and reduced drag, the rotor operates more efficiently, leading to a reduction in noise and vibration. This also improves stability during flight.

Yes, I use a swash plate leveler because having the servo arms close to neutral provides the best flight performance. This is due to the fact that when you let go of the stick, the helicopter returns to a straight neutral position. It makes trimming easier, resulting in better overall flight performance.

@@pilotbowser9980do you have a part # or link for a swashplate leveler for the flywing helis bell 206, uh-1, fw450L

No, I found it online for free. The issue is that I work 60 hours a week, so I don’t have time to sit down and design things. However, I hope to start designing parts in the near future.

@ I’m same way work my ass of 24/7 then somehow Find spare time somehow to work again on things to keep my sanity.

I understand lol

If you want to extend the range beyond 1 mile, you'll need to purchase a long-range receiver.

@ I’m pretty impressed. 1 mile is pretty far. I just bought a RC era C - 189 I definitely want a remote that will improve the range, but I have no idea what to look for to buy

@Truth.Love.Liberty you just need to find a long range receiver that has S bus capability.

I encountered minor issues like over-tightened screws on the servos and one faulty ESC, but overall, I bought three helicopters from them and am still happy with my decision.

@ I’m just now getting back into the hobby. I had a blade CX2 that I wrecked. I just ordered parts for it and I ordered the RC era C189 so I will have two to practice with. But I definitely want to upgrade to something like this in 500 scale or maybe 450 scale and put a FPV cam in it or my rc era c189

@@Truth.Love.Liberty I ordered from FlishRC in November 2024. As of today, it just shipped. I did receive a "test flight video" earlier this week showing the radio with my name on it. I will be making a series of videos on it upon receipt.

You ordered in november and atill dont have it in tour hands?!? What?!

@@Truth.Love.Liberty I ordered 11/20. It shipped today, 12/6. Not bad considering these are made to order and test flown with a custom video (your name is in the video) prior to disassembly, packing and shipping. I guarantee FlyWing isn't doing any of that prior to shipping. Coming from Hong Kong, I've paid for expedited shipping via UPS and should have it in the next 8-12 days. Potentially, 30 days from order to arrival from China to the USA...not bad.

I encountered minor issues like over-tightened screws on the servos and one faulty ESC, but overall, I bought three helicopters from them and am still happy with my decision.

No problem

Thank you! I will have more to share soon.

Layer adhesion is stronger on the X-axis than on the Y-axis.

I want to try the original print file from the creator to see if it works, but if it fails, I will probably make modifications.

I apologize for teasing you. I didn't want to make the video too long, so I decided to break it into two parts. In the future, I might include the flight segment since I can cut out the slicing portions, as they use the same profile, just different filaments.

Could you explain further? I'm curious about why yours didn't work, and yes, I have a resin printer; I just haven't set it up yet.

450

Thank you and yes it’s 450 scale.

Unless you are replacing a servo or server, arms, or linkage.

No problem.

same here :(

@swmatthews005 it’s possible, but you have to do some heavy modifications.

I apologize for not covering the drive unit in the video and for missing those extra screws. I will review and potentially create a new video to address this issue.

I also thought so, but every time I finish flying, it loosens for some reason I haven't figured out yet. I'm going to try a different screw and nut to see if that solves the problem.

@@pilotbowser9980 I,ve noticed with new blades they are abit of a tight fit even before tighting the screws,guessing they just need a little sand down before attaching...have you checked to see it your blades are balanced?

I bought it on sale for $630, plus tax and shipping, using coupons.

Yes, the Huey needs some work, lol. On your Airwolf 500 scale, how did they hook up the retractable landing gear on a switch without burning out the flight controller, since we cannot plug anything into the receiver due to the flight controller?

No, I haven't thought of that, but that's actually an excellent idea. Thank you.

Thank you for the information. I was planning to start a new series on 3D printing parts with carbon fiber because I have a couple of bamboo labs printers. I'll need to pick your brain about some of these ideas. Thank you.

@@pilotbowser9980 The adavantage of the Nylon (PA) is it's Melt Point, which is why it can be used for Engine Manifolds, where PLA will warp when left under glass on a clear day. The Carbon Fibers, same with Glass fibers, is as or more dangerous as Asbestos to breath in, which is why it needs to be treated with respect when finish sanding - done to the same methods as car body repairs, masks and vacuums. I've modded my Voxelabs Aquila (Ender 3 v2 clone) to do PA-CF, and it's a challenge - Bed over 100C, Steel Nozzle at over 290C. Unless you absolutely need the unique properties of the Nylon, and if your printer is running original firmware, have you taken a look at PETG ?

I have ruled out PETG because I am going to use the carbon fiber PAHT-CF for an upcoming project.

There is a twin engine version of the Huey that had 4 main rotor blades. I don't believe the US ever adopted that version.

Wow, I find that really interesting. I didn't know that the United States developed it.

They have to catch me first! LOL, wait for the next FPV video. It’s even crazier.

If I reach 1000 subscribers, I will indeed give away a helicopter. 👍

At that particular flying site, there is an airspace restriction that caps the altitude at which I can fly. I have to be careful not to fly too high there. But if I go to my main seat, I can fly very high, and we will really enjoy the flying experience.

If you go and watch, the EC 135 FPV set up, you'll see the new way I'm setting up the cameras with the new plugs. I believe it’s a JST plug I’m using. Yes, I am considering putting a heads-up display in the helicopters, but I’m still trying to find the right setup to do so.

@@pilotbowser9980 I dabbled in some of research and a potential option is to use a split power plug to power a speedy bee V4 All in one flight controller (With DJI O3 port) connected to your Air unit. Optional headtracking with BK RC head tracker (rated 5V) which can also be powered by the speedy bee flight controller servo plugs. Technically it is possible to have everything plugged into the speedy bee flight controller, but i am not sure if H1 Heli is compatible with them.

When it comes to the flight controller, it's very power-consuming and doesn't tolerate anything else being plugged into the receiver when it's being powered. I believe it would short out if you try to plug in something like a gear or lights and run power from the receiver. Thank you for the information. Can you send some links so I can research and potentially create a video about it?

@@pilotbowser9980 The idea is for the speedybee v4 stack to only provide telemetry data and power to the DJI air unit for a on screen display. Meanwhile the helicopter controls are kept as it is with the exception of providing 5v power via a spare servo connection to the BK head tracking unit. Both sets being powered by the same battery using a split wire connection.

i cant seem to add links to this reply.

Thank you. I hope everything is going well with you too. Yes, I do have stabilization on, but it’s turned down very low, almost nonexistent. The only reason for stabilization is that I’m not a good 3-D flyer, but I’m working to get to that point. On top of that, my ATT mode keeps trying to put my helicopter in the ground, so I've got to figure that out first before switching over to that secret function.

@@pilotbowser9980 Thanks for your kind answer! Flying with 3D mode ON and 6G stabilization OFF is very different, but so rewarding once you got it right! Not just for 3D acrobatics, which I do not really do, because I am not an advanced Pilot. In 3D mode you really "balance" the heli all the time with very tiny stickinputs and the "counter" inputs. The bad thing is: I had to learn everything from the beginning again. Starting with just hovering and then learning one new thing after another. But the feel of giving such tiny stickinputs on the cyclic causing these machine to fly in crazy, unlimited bank bankangles and finally do exactly what we want is so rewarding. If you try it, try hovering and slow flying from side to side first to develop this total different feel of balancing! I wish you a great journey and all the best!!

Thank you for the valuable information. I'm excited to share my helicopter journey in 3-D mode with you.

@@pilotbowser9980 I cross my fingers!! Be patient with yiurself and do not expect too much at one time and all will go great! I will follow your progress with a pleasure!! The way is the goal!!

I've been trying to send it to you for a long time, but you haven't responded. I've tried reaching out to you on Facebook Messenger and even here to get your information. I just need you to cover the shipping costs. Please get back to me so I can mail them to you.

@@pilotbowser9980 Please let me know the shipping cost and where I can send it. Thanks again for your time Bow!

I’m going to message you on Facebook messenger so we can exchange information safely.

Hey, I have a Signal account. This is my link to message me so I can send you your 3-D part. signal.me/#eu/CanxJ23ONjV2ym_HoxM8VXT3kgnMwcMWnH5l5woIbwJ3Ip7u7IZBnIIRbR6X5Nhp

@nv180399 I think you bring up a good point. Sometimes it can be hard to hear due to the wind. I think for the next test, I'm going to invest in a decibel meter sound level reader.

Yes, most definitely! It's very interesting that the Bell 206 was quieter with the three-bladed tail rotor.