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Salut domnule. Hmmmm, pot fi multe motive, dacă ai urmat toți pașii de blocare și strângere a distribuției, aș recomanda o diagnoză să vezi ce erori citește computerul

Hello, if the coolant level is ok and you don't have air in the cooling system, I would first check engine oil level and age (how old is the oil) & make sure the oil pump works properly; then I would think about running too lean mixture (too much air thru the carburetor) but this should also influence the engine behavior when running it - this can be checked by looking at your spark plug color ( A spark plug that is running too lean will have a light tan or grayish color). Hmmm, my brain at 6:46 am stops here. Let me know if any of the suggestions helped and if not, let's find out somehow together. Keeping my fingers crossed for you

@@thecurlyfixingguy7077 thank you very much for your answer.

Pfff, to be honest, I can't tell

Yes sir, so you can screw back in the hand brake shaft and then be able to press the calliper piston inside

Salut, dacă schimbi și lanțul care angrenează roțile dințate din baia de ulei, da, ai nevoie de acel blocator.eu nu l-am schimbat deci n-am avut nevoie. Anul ăsta îmi propun să refac motorul complet și voi ataca și acel subiect

Hello sir, you can remove only the left "big" pannel but don't forget about the underneath plastic mountings

@@thecurlyfixingguy7077 Thank you for the clarification!

@@oychoppa anytime

thank you sir for the feedback. no, I had no leaks from the replaced gasket anymore. I am planning to rebuild the engine this summer because it's still "eating oil" and has some visible leak points. So stay tuned for I'll make a series out of it. Peace

Hello hello, thank you! To be honest I will guess it's at least similar if not identical procedure

Yes, that's a bit tricky. From my point of view you should try wiggle the civer while putting it back. Be patient and make sure everything is well seated before you tight the bolts

@@thecurlyfixingguy7077 thank you, I actually found a new trick, I basically removed the wipers and the covers around the wiper arm controller as if I want to replace it, it gave a lot of space and just made everything so much easier, if only I had figured out this trick long ago, fitting this gasket would be an hour job from start to end 😆

@@Driftkingmo fantastic!! Thank you very much for the idea! Apreciate it. Wish you many km without any heavy repairs

Salut domnule, din ce am citit pe site-ul ăsta: www.neorom.ro/ghid-uleiuri (Recunosc că nu cunoșteam detalii despre normele de uleiuri recomandate de producător), Volvo recomandă normele A1/3 sau B3/4. Totuși, uleiul folosit în video a fost comandat pe baza talonului (VIN) de la dealer de piese deci nu mă aștept să fie probleme cu el. Oricum îți mulțumesc frumos pentru remarcă, am mai învățat ceva nou și o să fiu atent la acest aspect în viitor pentru a prelungi cât mai mult viața motoarelor.

Hello hello, hmmmm :-? It could be multiple reasons. I would recomend a diagnoze. But make sure you've put back the ignition coils strongly connected. That's just one thing that comes to my mind now. Other thing, spark plugs age :-?. But anyways, keep us posted, would apreciate it

@@thecurlyfixingguy7077 spark plugs are done a few weeks ago, after we started the car it went into limp mode . Do we have to reset the valvetronic motor? If yes how???

@@SpherePK to be honest I never did that but if you say limp mode, then I totally recomend a diagnose and that should narrow down your problem

Liked your video, very informative. The only thing is the music you input between talking is way too loud. I had to volume ++ then volume - - - - - and replay video few times

@@amberg3382 thank you very much for this helpful feedback! I apreciate it. I will try to invest more and more in equipment and editing so that videos will get easier and enjoyable to watch

Hello. Actually not really. I've replaced it because I bought a second hand wheel hub and the bearing was rusty so it was mandatory to change it. But to diagnose a "broken"/tired wheel bearing, you should hear a whizzing sound when you turn to the oposite direction of the broken bearing wheel (if you turn right and you hear that whizzing sound, that means that either your front or back left bearing is bad - usually is obvious). There is also other diagnose method, like lifting the car and shake the wheel from upper to lower part and feel if there is any "play" while doing that. Let me know if this was helpful

Așa este, ai dreptate. Îți doresc baftă maximă cu distribuția. După ce mă întorc din concediu în iulie, mă apuc de refăcut motorul complet :) o să bag și aici pe canal video-uri cu procesul de "rebuild"

Salut vanosurile alea au o catare anume conteaza cum le pui ?

@@patriciaparvuica1329 solenoidele nu neapărat. Dar te cam restrictioneaza cuplele cablurilor să le pui în aceeași poziție. Dacă este vorba de "roțile" de pe axele cu came, da, acelea au poziție fixă explicat la minutul 2:46

Ce părere aveți despre acest motor am achiziționat recent

Respect your comment, thank you! what could have I done better?

Hey dear Thomas, I would guess you'll need to unlug the fuel lines, disconnect any electrical cable (like fuel level sensor) and then undo the bolt holding the buttom of the fuel tank on the frame. Best would be if you can find a service/owners manual and there you should have the procedure well described. Peace

ps. girlfriends nails 10/10

Oioi, I'm Onut Robert Eduard on Facebook, dm there please

@@thecurlyfixingguy7077 the turbo is the problem, consume the oil:))))))

@@claudiubostiog710 dude, I'm afraid I don't understand you :-?

exactly what i was going to ask!!!!!!! i want to do this and i was thinking i could mesure my old one to figure out and then when i pulled it out its was so badly destroyed there was no way i could mesure the diamiter of it

Hello to you both, you could use measuring callipers and try the sharp side of them to roughly measure the exterior and interior diameter (but this can only happen for the outter ones). For the interior ones, you'll need to either have the original code for the bushing (which is nearly impossible in case of chinese scooters) either you'll need to tear them appart and then measure them properly and wait for the new ones. We have a market în Timișoara Romania which has a chinese scooter parts store so I guess/hope you should be able to find one around you as well

Hahaha :)))) thank you very much, I'm glad I could help. Wish you all the best from Romania

Tank you very much for the tip, apreciate it

I hope you answer 🤞

Hello hello to you too! pffff unfortunately it wasn't my personal bike and it's near to impossible to find out in the near future what was the dimension of the O-ring. But maybe you can use a caliper to measure the interior of the whole so you can determine the big diameter of the O-ring and then play with some widths until you get the sweet one . Or maybe a full service manual could help? Let me know how you'll deal with it

Hey hey, could you please switch to english?

@@thecurlyfixingguy7077 how many thousands of kilometers can such an engine travel... is it the same as the Honda reflex 250......????

??????

@@user-ym7vv1me8x hello, yes, it's the same engine as the honda Reflex 250. How many km? I cannot say exactly how many because it always depends on how you treat the engine. But if you treat it right, I bet it can go up to 100.000 km, easily. Wish you a great day

Thank you sir!

Hahaha, it wouldn't be a "job" without any challenge

Hello hello thank you for beeing here! If you changed all the parts you mentioned, next I would suspect the center bearing of the drive shaft (that was generating cluncky noises in my case). It is usually changed together with the guibo bushing. Hope this helps. Peace

​@@thecurlyfixingguy7077 My mechanic has controlled the center bearing and it was OK. Should I be suspicious about the center bearing even If I dont feel any vibration at chasiss? I only feel small amount of gap at drivetrain actually. My prediction is : if there is no gap at drivetrain it should be about rear links causing hitting noise

@@Meteakr hmmmm, I would start with the center bearing of the drive shaft since the rear bushings that I replaced in this video cause a cluncky noise over bumps or bad road, not when disengaging or engaging the clutch. But, to be honest, since I can't see & touch your car, it's pretty hard to offer a precise diagnosis, so I would like to avoid getting you on false leads. Please keep me updated when you find the root cause because I'm very curious about it. wish you luck and patience!

​@@thecurlyfixingguy7077 I dont hear any noise at bumpy roads so this feedback was important for me. Looks like my case is not about TAB's. I have checked my car again. There is no noise at first launches. That made me strongly think center bearing can be faulty as you said. Because I'm hearing that sound when ı cant do rev-matching perfectly on 2-3-4th gears. Probably shaft is shaking and producing that one hitting noise. I should have done changing center bearing with guibo.. But I think I can live with this for a while So ım gonna leave it a while at least till next oil service. Thank you for your comments! I feel I made my mind more clear. However, I will update here when I figure out this problem. By the way my car is 316ti

@@Meteakr yes, so if it's a clucnk when not matching revs perfectly, I'm more convinced there is something with your drive train. Rear tabs/axle bushings are making noises mostly if not only over bumpy roads. Don't worry, that's how I've learned also (by doing). I belive it's a good idea to do the bearing replacement at the next oil change. Let us know your finding. Peace