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Northstar figures are great - the bulb on the end is just flash/mould, I had the same initial response when I first got them as well. Galloping major figures also mix in well with them for being nice stocky sculpts, Crusader Miniatures seven years war too if you need more 'regular' units, whereas Warlord Games metals for the same period are a bit slimmer and a little shorter. In separate units on the table not really noticeable at arms length, but close to or mixed in together as a unit they can be a bit stand out. Also get Muskets & Tomahawks II. Doooo iiiiiiit. Both French & Indian War and Napoleonic War rules for it are cracking good fun.

Lovely project, period.... And figures!

I wargame 1950s-1980s Cold War regularly, but that has the advantage of it being a what-if. I would do Arab-Israeli games of the same era. And do WW2 extensively. I wouldn't do Gulf War 2 or current games in the Levant, nor Northern Ireland. I would do 1990s Balkans War, but that has a lot of opportunity for what-if with so many armies involved. The Ukraine War - hmmm, I might do as a theoretical game with NATO intervention, or Chinese intervention, to feel out alternative events, but refighting current battles, no, but then I don't have the models for it anyway, nor rules for drones! Paradoxically, I tend not to play ancients games, but thats because I don't find any rules that I like, and so much of it is made up because of lack of reliable records.

Thanks for the review. Am currently converting all my wargaming to 10mm from a mix of 6mm, 15mm and 20mm. So I only need to stock one lot of scenery, and can use N guage model rail scenery. I even have a huge Japanese castle card building to construct, from a German company called Shreiber Bogen, search out their 1/160 stuff. They do great town houses that are suitable for WW2 and Napoleonic in Germany. I Had acquired some metal 10mm samurai from Pendraken and Castle Arts, then these came out from Wargames Atlantic! Have you done a comparison with 10mm Pendraken figures?

great job thanks so much for doing these videos.

The British uniforms of the French and Indian War/Seven Years war are not suitable for the American Revolutionary War. The British army switched to the Warrant uniform in 1768 which is completely different than what you have there. Now the Colonial militia will work really well because the early Continental troops would have worn uniforms/homemade clothes from the French and Indian War. The Native Americans can be used freely throughout the entire Colonial North America period.

One of my favourite periods, look forward to seeing what you do with these dude!

They are some nice figures mate

Great looking figures my friend look forward to seeing more

So you add the support to figure who wins the combat I get that, but when you roll for the break test for the loser is support included in the die adjustment. EG confederates lose combat 3 to 1 and union had 2 support so really lost 5 to 1. Is the break test roll minus 2 or minus 4?

Great work my friend sharp practice is great rule system dont need a great lot of figures to play look forward to seeing your finished army look good

Bravi! Beautiful table.

I had a 20mm Hinton Hunt army . A 25mm hinchliffe army.and a 15mm Brit and Prussian armies. Then the beginnings of a 28mm Brit army from Perry Bros. My ACW Pendraken are unpainted

Quick and simple P&S rules try "Tilly's Very Bad Day". very playable and free on line.

Hello! I have no idea what VtM is, but I really like the cover and artstyle of this comicbook. Can I read it without feeling that I am missing something and simply enjoy the story?

Nice overview. I have lots of the metal Warlord Arthur minis, Wargames Atlantic late Romans, and other such minis that I use for the Osprey Dux Bellorum rules. This might be helpful to add to that mix.

Wednesday at Ibrox you say? You got a website or something?

Great run through, do you have the Shieldwall supplement as well and maybe could do a run through as that and how they do or don't compliment each other.

Great job with the figs and thanks for explaining your painting method. I have a box of each awaiting my attention. My experience with Wargames Atlantic, weapons break and shatter at any scale. I hoped at 10mm, these would be robust enough to snip and cut.

Masquerade 5th edition: An insult to everything that came before. Apocalypse 5th edition: Garbage Hunter 5th edition: Flaming Garbage They didn't even try making a Mage and Changeling 5th edition, they just moved on to create a brand new IP, which is just World of Darkness with a different hat.

How are you mounting all the line infantry ? It appears to be in a single rank like we used to before fire n fury stared until the in two ranks. I think single ran helps to make the depth small 10mm Deep bases look good, but the muskets aren’t protected in a fall so a well decorated 15mm or even 20mm deep I’ve used thin card for 25mm figures 1 inch wide X 3/4 in deep. The figures were mounted with Araldite epoxy glue which stiffened the base. I don’t know what rules to use. Fire n fury are about to introduce regimental rules for AWI which sound promising and I know the rules.

I'm loving your videos. However, I think your making a mistake on the overhead fire. The artillery has to be at a higher elevation as well as 6" away from enemy and the enemy 6" from the blocking unit.

Thank you

Thank you for sharing

Good overview. That's a nice upgrade over the original pamphlet rules.

Have you considered usig the For King & Parliament Montrose campaign supplement for your Scottish ECW?

Excellent. These models are beautiful. I've been sorely tempted to get some Thirty Years War going.

Great scale and your brilliant miniatures.

Thanks for the video. Nice work and it is good to know that Victrix matches in well with Warlord.

thanks for sharing

A very nice set of rules. I don’t know whether they did a 2nd edition, but on the company website, there is errata to update the vehicle stat sheets.

I am new to Black Powder. For artillery Shooting Overhead the rule book says the gun or the target must be on higher ground. In the video they are both on flat ground. Is this a difference between 1st Edition and Second Edition?

Great stuff! I'm looking to start my foray into Napoleonics starting with some polish regiments and this certainly is inspirering!

What would you say your favorite miniature game is?

Those T-72 in Iraq weren't Soviet Tanks, just produced in the Soviet Union! If those Abrams had to face fully equipped T-72B and T-80B or even T-90's things would probably have been more than a bit different. Especcially that the Iraqi Tanks had no Thermal Sights or Barrel Launched ATGM's, not even stabilizers for that matter.

The cobras can still be used for Team Yankee but they have a different canopy to the Vietnam era ones.

Really cool project and figures.

They look really good bud thanks for sharing

Hi unclethulu i am loving the gone hot series so far as i do this period in both 20mm and 15mm scales enabling larger or smaller battles, i too love the battlefront books but not the rules so much but i am trying to find the perfect set (have not found it yet) incidentaly the reason Ak mags are painted orange is because it eases ammo ressuply in real life as there many ak varients some requiring different ammo, so its a recognition feature and all your infantry should have the same color mag and i think the orange mag is for the more widely availible 5.45×39mm the standard infantry cartridge, looking forward to more. love to all.

Those are really nice, I think I need to use a couple of regiments of my French for Brunswick. Thank you for posting

Picked some of these figures up for an oriental adventures game. Pretty decent.

Cool stuff. Since you mentioned alternative history ideas, I thought I would mention the original backstory/history for the Twilight 2000 setting. The game itself is set several years after the war starts, and the battles are much smaller than what you're interested in here, I think. What you might be interesting in is the initial phases of the "Twilight War," which starts with the GDR Army seeking to take advantage of diminishing Soviet power the mid 90s (this was written in the 80s, before the Soviet collapse) to conspire with the West German government for reunification. The East German forces mutiny against the Soviets, and (as previously arranged) the Bundeswehr intervenes, driving Soviet forces back. The US supports the Germans, but the French and Italians refuse, since this isn't seen by them as collective defense. Poland and Czechoslovakia side with the Soviets out of concern for the possible territorial ambitions of a reunified Germany. As I recall, the British don't participate in the initial fighting, but do join in against the Warsaw Pact once the counter offensive reaches West German territory. The newer Twilight 2000 history is different, and has Sweden more involved (since it's by a Swedish publisher). Another fun options might be to track down an old copy of Revolt in the East, which was a small, quick play game SPI put out, that has the Soviet player trying to put down a series of Warsaw Pack uprisings before NATO can intervein. The revolt table is random, so it could work to decide who fights who in Pact on Pact games. Or, you could just play through the game and then play the 'Key Battles' out, like a campaign system. Just some thoughts.

Huge fan of the channel, used to be named SGKtube. I would like to know what you think would be better to get into. Is team yankee or Nam’ a better game? I prefer the Vietnam setting but I’m not sure what plays better

This is a frustration era to try and game. It ramps up all the scale issues you already have with WWII. Looking forward to what you guys figure out. For what it's worth, when I was in an Armored Brigade in the early 90s in Germany, the GDW rules Combined Arms (the 'modern' version of their Command Decision system) were used by one of the Armor Battalions to play through tactical situations for Tactical Exercises Without Troops. The US Army had its own Micro Armor rules in the 80s, and the general sense I got was that the tankers thought Combined Arms was just as good or better, and more up to date for the 90s. BTW, it looks like you can actually get a copy of the Dunn-Kempf rules (the 'official' US Army rules in 80s) these days for pretty cheap.

I've have the Northag and Seven Days to the River Rive so another shout to look into 7DTTRR. Also TY has a few Firestorm campaigns from Battlefront, maybe free or a pack for like a fiver, and there are some scenario packs PDF & Books on Wargames Vault, and if playing the Russians get Red Army by Ralph Peters, and the Third World War by John Hackett which I think TY was kinda an Americans interpretation off. So there's some supplemental resources to look into maybe helpful :) I would agree the TY books are great for background detail.

me loves NORTHAG from PSC or Seven Days to the River Rhine. later is more arcadey, but fun AF

Team Yankee / Flames of war has sort of been Hijacked by tournament / competition players where you have clumps of units lining up and rolling off against each other ( okay if you want a fast game on club night ...but can leave you unsatisfied ) ...unless the other player is willing to play a more realistic game an idea is some sort of campaign as I know in some of the later TM books their are linked scenarios which look interesting as you carry over the damage from the previous battle and theirs other tweaks too. As for CWC and BKC their designed for mass battles and I know a number of players who are not keen about BKC late war as the king tigers are indestructible. As for Battle group Northag ? I wonder if it's related too the ww2 battle group series I've never played them but I have met people who like them.

CWC and TY and Northag are different scale of rules. CWC is scalable from section to platoon to battalion level and is flexible. As you say, Warmaster based. Have played CWC and BKC extensively in 10mm and 6mm and like them for bigger battles. Have played test games with TY in 6mm and if you insist on following real life tactics, they are workable, if not you get clumps of tanks crossing the battlefield. Have Northag, but not played them. Not a fan of the Battlegroup WW2 rules they are based on, but they may play differently. I would add another set to the mix, Seven Days to the River Rhine by Great Escape games, which suits smaller unit actions. I also use a set of rules from an old Miniature Wargames magazine from 30+ years ago that concentrate less on the technical side and more on organisation, command and control and morale.

Just a note on NORTHAG/CENTAG they are set in 1983 , so some options in the BF box sets might not be usable for them .

Never played this but it has my interest, love the hat too