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Excellent video sir

Great info.

been doin what you showed for 200 rounds I cannot get my necks thin enough without having to trim neck diameter ...and just ordered a .262" reamer to remove the material before firing ... unlike the reamers LE Wilson makes that do us NO good reaming after firing... Obviously NOT for us guys forming brass from 308 ...

What about 7.62 brass to 6.5?

If they were only 29 bucks now.

If you're powder coating your bullets, you don't need to gas check them. But hey, if you like it, and you want to spend the money, go for it!

Thanks... you saved me a lot of work

Does not save time, but it sure saves money. We all trade our time for money.

enjoy your videos wish you didn't stop

Ill give you 60 for it lol

Paul Bike makes a set of form dies that is nothing short of amazing with the 30* shoulder angle. There are various sizes of dia bushings that are used to neck down in steps. I purchased a headspace gauge, and set headspace on a large dia bushing and br4713's advice on the 30 br body sizer is a great first step. Some are freeks on proper case head markings and concerned about mixing up cases. To mark your cases that are formed down, dip the case in some INSTA BLUE of some brand, and a small part of the brass will turn BLACK for instant identification. Two concerns on forming down brass from a larger piece of brass: A. formation of doughnuts at the shoulder-neck junction. To check for doughnuts, after firing the brass, insert a bullet into the case mouth past the shoulder-neck junction. B. There will be issues of neck thickness. I highly recommend anyone serious about forming cases to purchase a TUBE micrometer, and they are not expensive. C. Neck thickness when formed down may require neck turning, and I refrain from internal neck reaming having done many thousands this way. D. I learned to anneal the brass with a propane torch and pan of water, still using this method today. Back in the late '60s, we bought 55-gallon drums of once-fired military 30/06 brass for cheap money, and we made many different cartridges out of the brass with RCBS form dies. I worked for a commercial reloader as a teenager, and at that time, a box of 20 rounds of 30/06 reloaded with Sierra bullets sold locally for $3

Nice work brother... Like justin mentioned... Nice to folks backing the brass out TO SHOW OTHERS WHAT TAKES PLACE. The SEAL adage fits alot of niche's. Slow is smooth... SMOOTH IS FAST! Thank you for sharing your info with us.

Waaayyy too much work!! ...What's wrong with ONE coat...like Eastman or Powder by the Pound gives you???

Thanks

I have a question if you can plesse answer thia for me please lol? Is there different Top Punches that are used for the Lyman Devastator Molds. The punch you have for you mold seema to be longer than the molds i have seen on websites where you can purchase Top Punches?

Thank you so much for shoeing a great video of the Devestator Mold with detailed over view of the Top Punch.

..MOST IMPORTANT thing to do is keep your fingers out of the way!!!

Try WD40 dry lube for sizing your brass.

What MOS is 19 Dellta???

Bought some gas check from Underwood. 357mag 180gr black cherry hard cast for my Henry big boy All Weather in 357mag. Wanted to get federal premium hammerdown 357mag 170gr bhp but can't get a hold of any in gun shops or online ordering so I went another route to get some good quality ammunition.

Thank you for showing the process.

You made a very good video . Thank you

Anyone know if this could be used for 380 ACP. If sized properly?? I saw info on this somewhere but am unable to find it again..

Curious was that only neck sizing or full sizing die?

Why the f*ck would you waste good 308 brass

Warning do not use 308 brass once you neck it down to 6.5 and press bullet in the neck wall is a thousant over. The bullet will be sqeesed so tight in the brass if you manage to close the breach the bullet will cause exstream presure that you could be in exstream danger of barrel damage or yourself but you could use 243 the brass walls are the same thickness after pressing bullet in the brass but the 308 wont be !!!!! do a sample brass with bullet in the 308 brass measure it at neck then do a 243 the same way you will get the same measure you get with 6.5 creedmoor brass.

When you neck down the 308 to 6.5 creedmoor does it have the same volume capacityas the 6.5 creedmoor does.

Have you tried the BCB coating? I like a really good finish on my stuff so the PC method is not gonna happen. It's either gonna be Hi-tek or BCB, just looking for more feedback on the 2. Great vid!!

Annealing before doing this resizing Is that way to go. That much stretching is doing a lot of hardening

I just resized a batch of mil match grade brass. Empty case chambers fine but after loading the round won’t chamber so the bolt can’t be closed. I just miked it out and apparently the neck is to thick. I know them can be turned or sanded down but I don’t know the exact procedure. For the hours I have invested in 100 rounds of brass and still have to pull bullets turn cases and reload I think buying a 100 rounds is the safest and easiest.

Oh how I miss those prices!

Awesome video

Excellent instructional video...

Hey Joe...where you goin' with all those bullets in yo' hand...

Can gas checks be applied to all cast bullets or do the bullets have to be cast to fit the gas check?

Y did you cut it before u sized it? Also I was told make sure I lube the neck and shoulder good! Pls help ! I’m about to make 7mm-08 out of 200 pieces of .308 brass

It's 2022 and brass prices are out of sight if you can find some, 357 brass is unobtanium. Because I'm an old National Match shooter I have, must be 10k 308 cases in my basement. I bought a Savage 12FV in 6.5 Creedmoor to see what all the fuss was about well, it's become my favorite for paper punching at local meets. Brass is a real problem now and using your method really looks feasible for converted brass. Might make a buck or two at it also. Thanks. Update: It's 2 months later and I have converted 700 rounds from 308 to 6.5 Creedmoor. What I do is I use Hornady Case Wax, put a little on my fingers and lube the cases including the necks in and out and shoulders, sparingly. I run it into the die slowly untrimmed and it comes out perfect, haven't crushed a case yet. I then trim with a Frankford Arsenal Power Case Trimmer to 1.910" and finish the mouth of the neck. I anneal the neck and shoulder, blueprint the flash hole and resize again as normal with my homemade case lube. Loaded with PPU 120gr OTM bullets and a mid range charge of Win 748 they are shooting my best groups at .048" for a 5 shot group at 100yds. They tend to lengthen around .002-.003" after the first firing, haven't had any stretch any more than that through 3 firings, I only bump the shoulder .002" when resizing. Thanks for the idea, it's saving me a bundle.

Great Video! I know some people try to trim 308 into 6.5 Gren, but 308 brass has a diameter of .473 & Grendel brass has a diameter of .440, so that will not work.

Is there a lip around the opening of the hollow-point cavity on the bullet after casting? It looks like there is.... Is the depth of the punch (cavity) adjustable? or does the screw you pointed out just hold the punch in place? Thank you for your time.

can't take safety too far. lol

I have been experimenting with this. I tried 243 brass with no success. I was crushing cases. 7mm/08 brass was perfect but I only have a dozen or so. So I sorted a couple hundred pieces of 308 Perfecta brass. In my Hornady dies I do one slow double pass and trim. It fits perfectly in a Hornady case gauge. So I started loading ladder with some Spear 140 HC flat base bullets. The bullets kinda pop into the case at the start. Maybe i have too much neck tension? I'll have to check measurements. And see if the neck swelled during loading and is out of spec.

Anyone thinking of using this method be careful. If the case neck is too thick it WILL result in over pressure and can be extremely dangerous! If done right it can be a great way to save some money shooting but again it is EXTREMELY dangerous if you do it half assed. Happy shooting everyone

If you shoot full load gas checking is totally useful. Powder coat helps as well.

the expander ball does not set neck thickness, it just expands the inside diameter of the neck to final diameter.

Seems like trimming after neck down would work better

IF you plan to shoot full power loads I. 357 or 44 mag, then yes gas checks are a good idea. Also if you try to shoot them out of some kind of rifle/carbine. For normal pressure/ velocity loads not so much. I have only used gas checks on my 30/30 cast lead bullets. For most other cast pistol bullets, I concentrate more on HARDNESS of the lead alloy BEFORE casting. I add tin + antimony to increase BRINNEL HARDNESS.

Good video, do you have to presoak the bullets with acetone first and if so for how long? New to bullet coating

I tried this from start to finish, I've watched your video over and over. I successfully worked the .243 however when I did the .308, it would not chamber. Not sure what to do. Everything seems the same as creed brass but won't chamber correctly, can some body please advise on how to correct this? Thanks!

What I have found is if you use faster burning powders you can get away with using softer alloys and push lead bullets to a decent speed. I've tried 2400 and h110 even powder coating bullets and I get leading, despite powder coating them. So I would need to use gas checks with wheel weight bullets or softer alloys. If you use the right hardness and its sized right for your gun you don't need gas checks if its powder coated. I have pushed 158 gr 358 bullets to 1150 fps with powdercoated wheel weight bullets and I didn't have any leading.

I cannot get these to chamber. I sized them to .356