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LOLOLO..As my old tech master told me "you are never done done done" I know what he means now!!

Yes Exactly! It's such a simple reset circuit it don't take much control it. By doing that they kept the back-up battery separate too.

I mean you need a Digital Analyzer to make sure all the outputs are working compared to the inputs. With a digital analyzer you can observe like up to 30 pins at once. With a normal scope you can do 4 if you have a 4 channel scope which is not enough to interrogate 5 inputs and 3 outputs. What I read and tested about the difference in the reset circuit the mods seem to isolate the ram battery charger circuit that actually feed one gate on the reset circuit. I think Nintendo engineers saw that the battery back up was not a feature that Vs. games would use and isolated any chance the reset would be affected by the battery backup circuit.

@@arcadelaboratory What is providing the "isolation" between the reset circuit and RAMs battery backup circuit? The Isolation mods would be what? it seems when the reset circuit was watchdogging resetting it would also ret the RAMs battery backup causing the RAM to whip & loose all the data.

Yes indeed that will be a good board for testing! Thanks!!

Thanks for that! I hope you learn a little! Do you have an arcade?

@@arcadelaboratory I do not have unfortunately I just love everything what is electronics and even my profession is linked to that. Also, I am really into retro.

I love everything retro too..I have a tech job too and the simplicity of this stuff is a nice break. I like saving them and making sure anything I work on can be used for a long time to come.

That would be a good test for sure! Yes bad connections can cause all kinds of graphic issues. You have to be careful when troubleshooting to make sure you are dealing with a bad connection or bad part. I never had a problem with 60/40 solder. I've heard the same about silver and actually bought a roll with 2% silver and I didn't notice any difference. I could of been the brand or maybe not enough silver to make a difference. I want to try again someday with the silver.

@arcadelaboratory you tin the IC chips legs with 100% silver solder so the IC chips legs don't get oxidation in the IC sockets causing intermittent graphic problems like artifacts and anomalies in the graphics.

I don't try to tin IC legs. Most of them wouldn't solder well unless they were like new still. I just clean them really good no matter what platting comes off. Maybe one of those solder pots would be good for that though because all you have to do is dip them. I'll try it if I ever get a soldering pot.

Sorry or the late reply Wayne! I think the 21.477Mhz clock has to do with the boards generating NTSC video and not PAL. On the PAL versions the clock is different. And the PPU's are sensitive for the same reasons I think. I've tested the video output and it seems to be linear to the 5vdc. Maybe the internal die circuits are not rated for spikes or overvoltage's too. Also they are almost 40 years old and the physical parts are degraded just from time as well.

Hey! Thanks for the message! Do you know if your board works? Do you have a Red Tent? Hopefully these videos help you out. Keep me posted!

Hey! Sorry for the late reply! I'm using a supergun and the SNES Controllers connect to that. It works good. Those are back home in IN now and I'm running my bench without it and I miss it, lol.

Hey sorry for the late reply! Yes, I need a better wire for patching. On normal boards that wire works good, but the Neo Geo has such small traces you are right. Good tip on how you do it and I'll give it a shot!

No I did not, but do now!! It's these little "got yas" that will get you , lol!!

Sorry for the late reply! How'd you make out on your board?

@arcadelaboratory No worries and thanks for the reply. I shelved them for a while for my own sanity and worked on something else. I'm going back to them soon with a clean start and looking at a simpler 74ls245 swap before looking again at the CPU then the DO and EO customs.

Thanks man!! Appreciate that!

I think 1 OZ of each should do it. It's been awhile since I did it but it does not take much. You could go by how much dishwasher liquid your dishwasher uses and go with that too. . Good luck, keep me posted if you try it!

Hey man!! I appreciate that!!! Your becoming a pro as well but having as many cabinets as you do kinda forces you too, lol.

Oh yeah, that trace didn't even look broken. I knew something was up there and wasn't even sure that ram was bad so I pulled it. I saw the piece of crud that got under there and caused that. I thought it was a burnt spot but it was black crud. So the one you had with the 245s is the early version of the 4 slot. Actually that's my next vid, I have one that is totally destroyed from corrosion I'm going to repair. I's not going to be pretty. There are traces that look broken and are not then you have others that look perfect and are not. I think most the via's on the next one are bad too which is like an open too. So yours running ok since you repaired it.? Also I'm dropping the sound fix for this board too. After it booted ok and games run well it had no sound. Would have been a 3 hour video if I combined them, lol. Good job on your board man!!

Yes, so if you are feeding the RGB directly to the CRT Neck Board then nothing changes in the chassis video processing or deflection circuits. You will use your video composite input for your Csync for PAL or NTSC. That's a good question actually and I'll roll that point in on my next RGB Mod. I have the new revision of this RGB amp so I"ll be dropping that soon. Thanks!!

Hey! Thanks for the compliment. That was a fun repair. I'm out of town for work atm. My company has me in Thailand for awhile or I'd have you send it right over. My other good friend Steve is up in Chicago and is willing to have a look at it. He's awesome and a better tech than me by far. He repairs allot of boards and is super fair priced. I can put you in touch. What's the board doing?

Hi Brandon! Sorry for the delayed reply. Good question and I did some research. Functionally both versions are the same however the difference lays in the installation and hardware itself. Here are the notes from the installation guide. I think this is the only real difference. Overview - • Thanks kindly for your purchase of the Darksoft ‘Champion Edition’ CPSG2 Multi Kit. Functionally, this kit is identical to previously released kits, however the installation process has been streamlined and is now a lot simpler! • There is no longer a need to be concerned about jumpers, replacement PAL chips or running a jumper wire to the PAL. There is also no longer a need to modify the original case in any way, and for most users, key writing wires are simply connected via one cable.

maps.app.goo.gl/wgpKAQ24eoZHWfxEA

Start here and it's around the corner in the alley. There are so many other stores there too..it's crazy.

Could you hear that cat?? Was going crazy!! lol was getting me off script lol

Hey! good to know. I'll let you know when I get into it. not even sure what's all wrong with it yet. I'm guessing battery damage at least. That's cool you got yours going. I don't have my diag chip here and will have to burn one for sure.

Thanks man!!!

My dealer here in Bangkok says the TP-280 is superior to the TP-100 and I would like to test that. But, I can only speak to the TP-100. Let's cover the clogging issues first. What I have learned to reduce clogging on this unit: Use a bigger tip. I started off using a 0.08mm and smaller tips and it did clog and worse the damn cleaning ram rom would not even fit through to clean it out. I ended up breaking many of those. So I started using a 1mm and the 1.5mm tip even on the smaller components and that solved most of it. The second thing I'd say to people with clogging issues is, how clean was the solder you were sucking? Nasty old flux and solder, and excess new flux is no good and will clog any gun fast. So I always give all my solder a clean before I suck it. This helps prevent damage to the pad due to excess heat you have to use on nasty solder too. My biggest complaint is that the vacuum pump diaphragm wears quickly. But with that said, I desoldered ALLOT of sockets..hundreds for sure so maybe that's the reason. With the TP-280's pump design maybe that's not a problem as it should be more heavy duty being a bench unit. Yeah, when you buy it stock up on 1mm and 1.5 mm tips. You can try the 0.8mm and smaller tips but I find 1mm is good unless you are working on really small parts. I like my Goot better than my Hakko. I think the suction is better and the Hakko clogs more that the Goot for sure. Proper maintenance on the filers and cleaning the tips as you go will get you many miles. Hey, another pro tip on cleaning those tips is get a set of torch tip cleaners. They use them on cleaning acetylene torch tips. They are basically small round files for cleaning carbon out of small orifices. Not sure why they don't include these instead of the crappy smooth metal ram rod, but they work much better because you can all the crap out. Here's a link to what I'm talking about. Good luck if you get that thing and me know what you think. Maybe I'll get one too, lol www.amazon.com/Cleaner-Carburetor-Cleaning-Orifices-Sprinklers/dp/B089B2FBCN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.PqCsQvaa2ivUCdWIfrZ2z7iRPi2LgSF4_VbQEEkQkKJcNiMmAdm6p10bW1QC-GFI23P93UoWXKkklX4NxyVZJ1-Kz082b3983OwRAf248F71b5kIfvQf_gqfIy4AWeBKRcRduVmOSnLH9mONaZEXIuvXOeWiTS99MHJn3wr7rv823bhJrfFMahYUND5oqBwlIM9nSUD0i0uoWRPSyA1V22dXwFg8res7ZIPE-uus6zOc1m3GhmNs7S5-S_Bk37fXRYzy8b2gAdf78SmOtIEspo8vjwEDcJlrRzylDV6-JvI.vkEsZ2UvopNVdbfOjsA0oA6bsvFo4W0mQC3o9JXlYN8&dib_tag=se&keywords=torch%2Btip%2Bcleaner&qid=1725187469&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

Hey man! I'm glad you dropped a line! I've been thinking about you and tried to message you but I can't find you on messenger now. I figured you were living on the river before the snow hits. Yep, we are kicking in the lab, not making as many vids as I want but I'm getting geared up. I have boxes coming from home that will keep me busy for awhile. Drop me a line..I want the report!

@@arcadelaboratory My guy! Not on the bookface anymore. You still got my cell?

@@Ajaxaxxess maybe..let me check!

Hi!! Thanks for the message! I've had the new parts to finish this for a long time! I'll bump this up in the que since you want to see. Thanks!!

Thanks!! I bought all this stuff working and so far everthing has tested good. Yes, I see the belts are a pain to change on the disk system. I'm ready to try should I need to lol.

Hey! Thanks for the message! I'm so glad you replied about the FX64 because I could not find anything about it. After you messaged me, I did some more digging about the Gotek drive. Now I know how it works for the most part. What a cool way to do a legit multi on original hardware. I want one of those with the encoder. I'm surprised there is not one for the 8bit famicom. That's cool you have modified these. So, it looks like an emulator and the roms go on the thumb drive and it plug and play? Can't be that easy right, lol? I like all those commodore and spectrum type systems but the arcade stuff keeps me super busy. Someday I'd like to do more with them. I have a couple MSX2 systems on the shelf I hope to get to as well. Maybe you can walk me through how to add games on this FX 64, not sure the software required really. Also the one I have is weird because they enabled cheats on every game by tweaking the code. I talked to the guy here in Thailand and he said he'd make me another thumb drive without the cheats enabled. Thanks again for the info. It was the main reason I made the vid really, hoped someone would jump in about the FX64. I'll make a separate vid now about it.

Hey! Sorry for the delay! With this you should not have to adjust anything after the initial calibration. Thinking about your crt, it sounds like you have other issues because you should not have to adjust it depending on black or color levels. I had a set like that and it was a weak flyback and the brightness vs black level would never line up. I was constantly adjusting it. I think this RGB amplifier would actually sort out weak sets because you can adjust your black level at any voltage you want that best matches your brightness.