Видео

Hi! :) You can find the pattern and stitch counts for the ears in the description - they don't use any new stitches or techniques and I personally prefer tutorials that skip the repetitive bits, which is why I make them that way - I understand that style's not for everyone!

@ I understand but please keep in mind that when someone is watching a video that says it’s for beginners they may be expecting for it to be thorough as not all beginners know how to read crochet patterns.

@darlingarlette that's a great point, and I have resources on how to read patterns as well! I know everyone's learning style is different - including mine making this video! This is one of the first video tutorials I made so there's a lot for me to learn about viewing angles, level of detail, editing style and other ways that it could improve and I'm open to that feedback. Videos like this do take a lot of time and effort to make (for free!) so I'm sure you'd see it's more motivating to receive feedback and suggestions on improvements I can do for future videos, rather than things I can't change about a video that's already finished :)

Hi! Ooh that's an interesting catch. The reason it happens is because the scallop is a 4 stitch repeat, and since there are 56 stitches in the 4th round that divides evenly, but a 5th round would have 70 stitches, so you'll want something that divides evenly into that - probably a 5 stitch repeat scallop. You could try each scallop as: 1 sc, 3 dc in the next stitch, 1sc, 2 sl st (so basically add an additional slip stitch at the end of each scallop). This will leave you with a slightly larger gap between scallops, but should still work out. Or you could try splitting the arch of the scallop and doing something like: 1 sc, (hdc, dc) in the 2nd stitch, (dc, hdc) in the 3rd stitch, 1sc, 1 sl st That would be a 5 stitch repeat again and the 2nd and 3rd stitch are basically mirroring each other. The scallop should be a little wider but I'm not sure if it would be as dense / tidy with the taller stitches split over a longer distance. You could always try one or two to see if you're happy with the look! Or thirdly, if you really like the look of the original scallops you can try and manipulate the number of stitches in the 5th round so they're divisible by 4 - you'd either want to skip 2 of the increases (to get you to 68), or add 2 additional increases (to get you to 72). I would suggest sneaking them in on opposite sides of the coaster to help them blend in, and since it's only 2 extra stitches it shouldn't impact the shape too much. This was a long answer but I got a bit interested in working it out haha, I hope that makes sense!

Thanks for the feedback! The entire pattern is in the description box, I wanted to try and keep the video a bit shorter by only covering things in detail when you need new techniques, but I know that style doesn't suit everyone!

Hi! I batch make them, so I don't know exactly (i.e. I crochet a bunch of pieces and then later I do a bunch of assembly), but if I were to go from start to finish uninterrupted probably about 2 hours per Pokemon? I am pretty speedy though because I know the patterns off by heart and have made them lots of times over the years, so your mileage may vary haha

For me personally the lean is reduced a lot by tying the knot at the back - when I don't do that I get a more obvious lean. There are some other methods I've heard of that don't personally use but I know have worked for others! You can also try the yarn under method - so instead of wrapping the yarn over your crochet hook for the first part of a single crochet, you wrap it under your hook and pull it through (try searing yuyo vs yoyo for a more detailed video) but I personally don't do it because I just like yarn over better. You can also look into joined crochet rounds instead of continuous rounds - for some people this can help counteract the lean a little bit - although for me, the lean is the same in joined or continuous rounds. But mostly the lean will be more obvious in larger pieces - this example piece has like 5 rows of changes, so it's a bit more subtle. If it were 10 rows the lean becomes more obvious - I have heard people say if you shift the colour changes one stitch over every 4 or 5 rows even though there'll still be a little jolt where you've done it, the end result can sometimes look straighter! I hope that helps :D

@53stitches thankyou, I shall keep trying

Thanks for the feedback, I wanted to create a tutorial that didn't repeat things we'd already covered, so since the arms, legs and ears don't have any new stitches or techniques in them I sped through them. I know that style doesn't suit everyone :) The full pattern is written in the description box of the video so you can find the stitch counts there!

Photo props are such a good idea, they add a great pop of colour. And good news, I have plans to make videos for all the Eeveelutions 😊 so it will be coming!

@@53stitches This is great! I really enjoy make your eeveelutions patterns, even with some doubts... Have a video to help follow the instructions will be great! I'm excited for this 😍

Thank-you! The tail is definitely the trickiest part, so use plenty of stitch markers if you need help with the counts!

Hi! This kind of comment is too vague to help me understand what might be confusing. More specific feedback is more likely to get a helpful response, thanks!

Thank-you! And yes, each coaster used about 10g / 20m / 22yards of yarn for me so perfect for yarn leftovers!

Hi! Sizing has a lot to do with your yarn and hook combination for crochet. If it's turning out a lot bigger than you anticipated, I'd try switching your yarn up first. You could split it, like you suggested, but I imagine that would be a painful process haha. I'm using a DK weight yarn, but you could try fingering weight if you want an even smaller doll. In that case you'd want to change your hook size too - a general rule for amigurumi is your hook size should be about 2 sizes smaller than what's recommended on the yarn band. This is because we generally want a much tighter stitch and fabric and yarn band recommendations are usually for garments which need more drape. I hope that helps!

Thanks for the feedback! The only things that got cut were single crochets but I probably could have left them in for the tail since I know it's the trickiest part of the pattern. I'm thinking of making a video just for the tail, without cuts, and while using a few more stitch markers to make it a bit clearer - I'm still learning the best way to make clear tutorials! Was it just the cuts that made it tricky to understand or was there another part of the explanation that didn't make sense as well?

This is the same question I have, did you ever find the answer?

Hello! Yes that's right 😊 the method shown here is repeated for every time I change colours where I want that sharp change - it's a bit time consuming if there are lots in a pattern but I've found it gives the neatest result!

​@@53stitcheswould this work for spots?

The written pattern is in the description box ☺ or you can also find it on my website 53stitches.com!

Hi! I just thread it through the inside of the piece - like at 19:40 when I'm hiding the end piece. I hope that helps 😊

I hope to see more tutorials cause i love crocheting i dont know how to spell sorry If I got one wrong spelled