Видео

yes this combo is the ultimate solution for the flywheel problem, didn't have any issues since I installed them!

@@millmotormuvek Awesome, I bought both, will install soon, but there’s none thing I am not sure, where do I need to connect the red wire that comes with the CDI?

@abutre-j4z you have clamp for the red cable, that can connect to any wire. It will bite into that. I connected it with the headlamp, therefore I need to give at least the position signal headlight to provide voltage for the cdi.

@@millmotormuvek So, meaning you would need to turn on the headlight to start? At this point isn’t it better to connect it to the ignition?

@abutre-j4z you can connect it to anything that provides a constant 12V with the ignition on. I have a preference to always have my headlights on (you cannot overkill visibility on a motorcycle), that's why I picked the headlight cable.

hi, Google 'Virex SM610', it will lead you to M4 Tuning's offer for it.

hi, sorry for the long wait, maybe you have the answer already. I don't know the factory size, but I measured on the inner diameter with a thrust gauge 33.3 mm.

On the chain, that is engine oil, the Motul 10W60 is red. The blue stuff, I dont know which one you refer to know, but most likely you talk about grease. On the brush, engine oil again, and on the screw, Loctite 243.

@@millmotormuvek Thanks bro! By the way, what is the Flywheel puller size, 27x1?

hi, sorry for the long wait, maybe you have the answer already. I don't know the factory size, but I measured on the inner diameter with a thrust gauge 33.3 mm

sorry, what cleaning you refer to? The chain? The dirt from the engine? The wheels?

@@millmotormuvek No worries, do you know the normal Volts or ohm for the stator,? i am testing mine with a tester, not sure the standard one as it does not show in the manual. Also, I bought the CDI from allumage, do you know where should i connect the red wire?

just did, have fun

@@millmotormuvek Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

no, 14 clicks are the total possible clicks on the tensioner, at 10 clicks it is advised to replace the chain.

@@millmotormuvek Well, the manual says at 7 clicks, it’s for sm 610 2006.

@@millmotormuvek Mine is making some click sounds, I am probably going to replace everything, cam chain, tensioner, gaskets etc. I found a cam chain kit at HTM Racing at 300 euros. It could be the valves that need to be adjusted at 0.05 mm.

what kind of manual are you using? SM610 2006 manual, Section G, 'Engine Overhauling', page 11, 'Timing chain and gears', and I quote from here: 'Replace the chain in the presence of noisiness and if the chain tensioner on the cylinder is at 10 clicks at its stroke'. please explain your case.

@@millmotormuvek Bro, you’re right, I rechecked it, it is 10! Don’t know where I saw that 7, hehe.

2006?

@@abutre-j4z 2009 injection

@@thanosmihalakidis2788 Cool! how are you managing it up to find replacements parts?

@abutre-j4z when I bought it it had 39k kms, thankfully I didn't need any parts other than a clutch cable

@@thanosmihalakidis2788 Lucky you, I will probably have to replace some, mine is making some noise: ruclips.net/video/DzxhzG2b8S0/видео.html

hey, which part do you need, disassembly or assembly?

@@millmotormuvek Hey, both parts if you can, please:)

here is the disassembly on youtube, let me know if this helped you, and then I will upload the assembly as well! ruclips.net/video/FrLjJ950rAU/видео.html

nincs 150 kg a motor. oda megy ahová szeretnéd, persze ehhez kell némi skill, meg megfelelő, meleg gumik. ha ezek adottak, akkor nem tudom elképzelni, hogy bármi más motorral jobban lehetne a városi forgalmat meglépni.

hi, not sure which bearings you have in mind, but generally all of those should go into the freezer, and the fitting place warmed with a flametorch or heatgun. if done properly, the bearings will fall into their places.

@@millmotormuvek Thanks for the reply. I managed to use a vise with soft jaws and a tube to press against the inside bearing race, to carefully press them into place, but next time I'll definitely do the freeze/heat technique.

define enough

i am using a quad lock mount, originally built for bicycles but just do the thing on my bike also. vibrations are moderate, I am able to clearly see gps routes, changing music is a bit trickier, but not because of vibration but apps and UIs are not built for using them with a glove.

hey, sorry to hear, you may dm me on insta, thats the easiest way to share info

hi, not really, after your flywheel case, the oil goes through a metal filter, if that is in place, that will hold the particles

i have a raw footage of that, send me an email adress and i will share it with you

Hi Andrea, the piston is not scheduled for a timely replacement. Manual says to be inspected every 10k, where you measure the piston sizes and cylinder sizes. The clearance of these should be within spec, if any of the measurement point is out, the replacement is due. I hope this helped!

@@millmotormuvek sure ,thank's for the istant replay. 3000 km ago i put new htm camshaft,i think or i hope my meccanic see the piston, i ask at meccanic, thank's Edward

well you need to pull off the cylinder to measure them, so in case it wasn't the scope of his work, I don't think he measured it. I wouldn't worry much about your piston to be honest for now. Just make sure, that next time it goes apart, it is measured as well. And how's the HTM camshaft, any difference to the oem?

@@millmotormuvek do you remember when I had problems with my motorbike, I stopped for a year. the motorbike choked, jerked, the muffler spluttered, and it burned a candle a day. no mechanic could solve or understand the problem. At the end they replaced my camshaft (because worn), valve rockers, throttle body, and main control unit... as well as the various oil and water maintenance, rebuilt starter motor... HTM distribution kit. regarding the htm camshaft I can't tell you for sure, because my clutch is worn out, and with 29 thousand km I don't know if it's in full health, but I noticed these differences: the bike is meaner and more angry, especially in the first 3 gears. while in 5th and 6th gear, at lower rpm, it seems a little more dead. I don't know if it's a characteristic of the camshaft, or because, before I probably had the control unit remapped, while now I don't.

Before the problem i have gpr exhaust, ecu remap i think...the air filter was very closed. Now i have gpr exhaust,htm racing filter...htm camshaft

so you have the i.e. version, the fuel injected, or still carbureted?

@@millmotormuvek mines still carbureted

okay, so are your magnets ok on your flywheel? i guess one or more magnets fell off, damaging the stator wiring. is this the case? for your stator, you can have that repaired, if a flywheel is needed, your oem best bet is through FB groups, you won't find any new of that. let me know if you need further details on any of the mentioned.

haha thanks Andrea!

will do, thanks!

thanks!

thanks Nick!

happy to hear this ;)

i have it from louis.eu, T&T oil temperature gauge www.louis.eu/en/t-t-oil-temperature-gauge-various-motorcycles-10035370

szia, van persze az is, 30 3987350

az a fél fognyi holtjáték gyanúsan hangzik, nem lenne szabad ilyennek lennie

van erről fotód, videód?

hi, actually, no, it seems that the magnets are weaker than on the oem, however, i have a last guess, a smaller spark plug gap may solve the issue, but i didnt try that when i was there

@@millmotormuvek just tried closing it a bit, doesn't seem to make much of a difference. For now it seems to take about 5/6 attempts to get it to start. If it maintains this average, I'd rather push the starter 6 times than spend 350€ on a new CDI

but after that 5-6 attempts, it runs? i had faint and irregular sparks, i tested the plug outside the cylinder. mine would never start up with sparks like this

@@millmotormuvek it runs perfectly, holds idle, runs smoothly

A faint spark, maybe 2, as soon as I press the button, then nothing, so no reason to hold the starter for more than 1 second at a time. But as soon as it starts, it runs good

szia Pali, ilyen jelenségről még csak olvastam eddig, cafehuskyn talán; ott az volt a gond, hogy a tengelyre pozicionáló kis pin (woodruff key angolul) eltört, és el tudott fordulni emiatt a főtengelyen lévő fogaskerék. ennek előzménye, hogy a fogaskereket lefogó anya meglazul. ereszd le az olajat, és szedd le a jobb oldali deknit. ott van, amiről beszélek.

Szia! Köszönöm szépen a választ! Ma megnézem. Udv.:Pali👍

@@palnadas2623 okés, hajrá! írj rám nyugodtan instán, szívesen segítek.

hi, we discussed this on insta ;)

hapoy new year for you too, Andrea!

hi, based on an expanded view of your model's parts, its only the clucth control and the cold starter which are there by the factory, so might be some aftermarket solution... go find me on insta, and send me a pic, we will find this out! @millmotormuvek

@@millmotormuvek Yo i got it, its a Little Switch so i can start the Engine when i pull the clutch and have the First Gear in 👌

i would go with a factory kit, I did not try anything else

hi, do not know, it was a long time ago... if you search for it on google, you should find it, maybe on manualslib or the similar pages. if you cannot find, send me an email and i will send it to you