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You are welcome grasshopper

Yea

I will try that some day when I get some time, just though I would try it before throwing out a bag full of bottles,

Works fine for my laptop

Yes, polishing stone or tiles creates a slippery surface, just don't use polished tiles on floor put them on the wall, or just Polish kitchen bench or bathroom vanity.

generally when doing internal walls we laser level the whole room if we are tiling all the walls, this particular job we didn't do all the walls we stropped on that left side, so yes just measured from the top of the tile on left down and started back up. some times depending on the situation like tiling out side in the full sun we work in a down ward direction and just nail the tiles in place putting nails in the grout joins, thin ones, start at the top line up the pattern and use thin nails to hold up each and every tile make sure to get it perfectly level and aligned each time as the sun will dry out the adhesive fast. for this reason starting from ground up wont work if you want to make changes. also using a laser level on a tripod can work lining up the grout joins on right side to left, i don't rely on those, old school eye-dometer works well and old school measure and mark, working in reverse there's a few ways but best i found is laser level in combination with working in reverse using the nail trick going from top down. hope this helps, thanks for asking

Thanks for comments, but watch the whole video

Thanks

Thanks

Yea, silica powder,

Thanks

Thanks

@@Thetilelayer 네에 그러지마요 욕해요

Thanks

Thanking you kindly for subscribing, and its good to know this video helped you.

There is a link in discription to buy it,

Thank you for watching, is there anything else you would like to see about tiling?

Thank you

Thanks for watching

Most good adhesives can handle upto 10mn of depth, so you would have about 3mm deep at apex and 9-10mm depth at the lowest, I would use an offset lay horizontal if your tiles are linial.

Thanks for the question, I didn't build the frame, and yes the model bath in said frame flexed a bit. The front of the bath frame was waterproofed before tiling, it pays to Incase the silicon between the facia tiles and floor tiles comes away one day.

I plane the studs, remove the nogs and put in thinner nogs, and yes plaster the walls out a bit with something, a balance between planning and plastering out

I normally use a turbo blade, but if you haven't used a diamond blade before I would recommend you use a continuous rim diamond blade as your first,

Nice

In the last 25 years IV been tiling I have seen the advancement of tile adhesive improve greatly, but some things never change like a dust stone tile or a dust surface that the adhesive needs to bond to in both cases you must prime. Natural stone tiles have a dusty underside as dose the floor, prime the tile underside and back butter as well as notch the floor is a prime method used through the ages.

Thanks will keep that in mind

@@Thetilelayer Your channel is not improving due to not doing video SEO Top Ranking & promotion on your RUclips channel. As a result of doing RUclips video SEO, your channel's videos will be top ranking, will be displayed on the first page, if someone searches, the videos will be shown first. This will increase your video views, subscribe, watch time. As a result, the channel will grow rapidly. Give your social platform. Want to have a full discussion about the problems and solve them.

Brushing it uses more primer in my opinion it's better to brush it and have more primer soak into the surface, in this occasion the customer was supplying all the materials and he requested we roll it, we advised against it, but he wanted to save money. If there's more primer soaking in it bonds better.

If the walls are tiled there's no need to fit a skirting, the purpose of the skirting is to stop water soaking Into walls with worn paint, tiled walls will stop this thus no need for skirting.

Hard case, that's probably way all tile adhesive companies sell adhesive that can go in swimming pools and showers and spar pools and over heat matt's, Thanks for commenting though,

@@Thetilelayer people will sell morons anything if they are willing to fork over money for it.. then they come back later paying twice the price because they didnt do it right the first time lol .. call me when you need a professional, im for hire or for fire

Thanks,

You have good reason to worry with moisture that high, there are a few products that can fix this and are cost effective, oddly enough I'm gonna be making a video on this in the coming months but that not good for you now. Link to a good rising damp product, www.rubberroofing.co.nz/product/wpm300-grey-2-part-epoxy-4lt/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqNqkBhDlARIsAFaxvwwcQYRfrc_xSDKLcz2zu0ybkZ1VMVHzxO-KNrYjc4gp8a5D2nVkl8caAqCSEALw_wcB , this will work for you before you tile and it's ease to apply, the adhesive will work anywhere, or if you can't get that one ardex x18 is even better.

@@Thetilelayer Thanks heaps for the quick reply. I also just managed to find out from Ezi Motartech that despite doing it's job of adhering even when submersed in water, this adhesive defintely still lets water pass through, which is what I suspected and was arguing with my Dad about this morning hehe. I think for my mental health we will just pay the expensive price to have the experts prep, waterproof and revinyl, as when you start to get into the slab prep requirements according to the technical specifications from Ardex like repairing cracks in the slab etc, it does my head in! Thanks for your help in dissuading the men in my life from their probably quite reckless plan...

For various reasons we are back to this tiling plan again 😂 I need to buy the waterproofing membrane locally tomorrow, so if I struggle to find the ardex wpm300 in stock anywhere do you have any other brands that you recommend please? I saw the Dunlop Damp Proof Membrane but assume it is inferior someway since it is cheaper but you didn't recommend that one to me. Not epoxy too I guess? The boys aren't planning any levelling, just filling some cracks with an epoxy filler then going for it with the waterproofing and then the tiling a few days later.

Found some Ardex in stock at one place, phew 😅

I have been using the same filters for work related purposes for 5 years now and they still work well, at first the air coming through was extremely good, now it just good. I clean them sometimes using a mini compressor on the thread end to Puch out any dust and buildup, we use these masks in moldy and chemical environments when building and waterproofing. I will do a video on basic cleaning the filters to last a little longer.

@@Thetilelayer Sounds good. Thank you.

Let me know how it gos,

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There is a plastic trim available in some places, the back that inserts behind the tile can be cut off and just the top glued on,

i know what you mean, i had a better one years ago i sold it as i hardly used it and now i wish i keeped it after using this, i think im gonna look for a better one.

Thanks

Sorry man

Those were fun times

Yes I did, I got an apprenticeship though I was trained by an old guy, and yes I made mistakes and fixed them, so long as you know you can do better next time.

Thanks

Yes you probably can, open wall if it's timber to make sure there's no pipes or wiring back there first, if it's concrete you should be ok to just grind it back,

Thanks much

Ardex

You don't need to clamp it down

Better to have strong waterproofing then regret not going over the top later

No better to be safer then not