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@@nikospar.100 Ναι γινεται. Απλα χρειαζεσαι μοτερ σασμαν (γιατι του d4d ειναι πολυ μακρύτερο) πλεξούδα και εγκέφαλο. Στην ουσία χρειαζεσαι ενα τροπετο για να παρεις ολα αυτα τα εξαρτήματα. Δεν νομιζω οτι σε συμφέρει. Καλητερα πούλησε το και παρε ενα εργοστασιακό d4d.

Να του βάλω αέριο lpg? Έχω κ εγώ το πρόβλημα.

@@nikospar.100 Αν εχεις το προβλημα και του βαλεις υγραεριο σε 2-3 μηνες το πολυ θα χρειαστει να λυσεις μοτερ.

@@derpy_kirby9239the later models aIQ after 2009 was equipped with the revised rings from the factory. So check what model is the car you want to buy. Other than that unfortunately you cant determine what rings are on the pistons.

Hello. We are in Crete. Why do you ask?

Thanks man! It was regularly serviced and behold the results. You do the right job to change the oil frequently. It's the engines' life.

@@cp.k6273 hello! For this kind of job with all the new components ( oil and water pumps, timing components, bearings, pistons, machine shop and labour) about 2000€

@@amtperformance7072 thanks for replying. Do you have a email? I might be interested

@@kaki868 Hello. Unfortunately the compression test will not help to locate the problem. Maybe a leak down test will help you see the sealing of the cylinders but maybe not. Because the first 2 rings may not be worn enough to show a significant reading. It will show you the condition of the valves and if everything is close to speifications then the only thing that can cause so much oil consumption is the oil rings.

I don't speak spanish either but... Muchas gracias amigo!!

If my understanding is correctly, the belt will lose width over time. Sometimes looking a bit frayed. There's loads of info to find about all kinds of cars and recommendable advise. Haynes have a pretty decent list for the Fiesta mk7 that shows you when you should be changing things. Of course real life experience and opinions may differ.

You are right about the two holes in the ring land. But also the oil ring design itself was not allowing much of the oil to return to crankcase. The best way to solve the problem( given that you have reached so deep in the engine) is to change the pistons and rings with newer design like them shown in the video. Thanks for the comments!

@@amtperformance7072 I had this problem in my previous car. Now i got Auris from 2012/13 1.33 VVti (1NR-FE) and i use amsoil 0w20 with detergent base based on magnesium not so on calcium it is more expensive oil but it keeps engine clean. For now i got no oil consumption problems but it is only 80`000 km. For now everything is ok, hope it will stay this way :) I change oil every 15 months (i do less than 7`000km and i checked oil sample in the lab that is why i change it every 15 month not 12)

Hello. I suspect a vacuum leak on the intake manifold side. Your idle is dead smooth or it fluctuates even a little? If it is, most likely there is a leak. There are some small vacuum hoses that probably are the cause of this.

​@@amtperformance7072 Thanks for your reply. My mechanic had a look at the issue I described and actually blamed the Throttle body or any sensor / valve connected to it. He said that ideally the complete throttle body should be replaced for a better result. They cleaned it up completely but it didn't help much. Due to the high mileage, there's a natural wear down. When idle, RPM doesn't fluctuate but it stays a bit lower than what is expected and the car vibrates a little. They connected the car to the diagnostics but they didn't tell me of anything related to vacuum leak, although I may ask them to check for that just in case and maybe replace the manifold gasket. At least it's inexpensive. If I have to replace the full intake manifold that can be really expensive... I hope not. I'm still knocking my head on this high revvup thing when changing gears and to me this can't be normal or standard... But I might end up getting used to it. Well, thanks a lot again for your analysis and support!

@@fabiomartins1866 It' almost impossible for the throttle body to wear at a state that it is not working properly. The engine on the video had 435000 km and the throttle body worked perfectly. BUT. Right under the butterfly there is an electronic valve that adjusts the air passing when the throttle is closed. The cavity inside is very difficult to clean but if you disassemble the valve you can clean the cavity. Of course you must take the throttle body off the manifold to do it. Of coarse if you replace the entire throttle body it will work fine. But it is that valve which is not working not the body. Insist to your mechanic to dismantle and clean it. At least it is much more cheap than replacing the whole unit and i'm certain that it will solve the problem. Greetings!

Have you retracted the tensioner all the way back? The tensioner lobe must be at 9 o clock aproximately. Also have the inlet cam sprocket bolts lose so it can rotate slightly. If you still cant put the belt on, maybe the tensioner or the belt are wrong for this engine.

@@amtperformance7072 if i was able to i could of sent u a picture of the tensioner but idk which way to retract the tensioner it’s the right belt and tensioner it’s a 2004-2005 volvo s40 2.4i

and plus i don’t have a engine hoist so i’m not able to take the engine out of the car so i’m stuff with doing it while the engine is in the car

Either way you turn it ,the allen key must be at 9 o'clock (left).

How frequent you change the oil and what type you use? Also how much mileage has the engine?

I have rebuilt quite some of these engines and yes the problem is solved. One of them have almost 160k on the clock after the rebuild without any problems. Of corse you should not neglect to change the oil at 10k or more frequent. It is much more cheap than engine overhaul!

@@amtperformance7072 thank you for answer. We bought a car in a condition like that

Thanks for the comment. Can you explain why it's wrong sealant please?

I dont see what sealant it is but you put too much it. Volvos own sealant is part number 1161059 , also Loctite 510 is proper stuff. Sealant must be anaerobic so it hardens when it does not have any air. If your sealant is like that its ok but dont put it so much. Sorry my english, i live in northern europe. 😋

@@amtperformance7072you are supposed to use an anaerobic sealant. Not RTV silicone sealant.

Hello. Yes it reaches the oil pan. It is better to take the sump out (it is not that hard) and find it. It is quite common on many engines. In most cases it cant cause problems because it is away of the crankshaft and cannot brake in smaller pieces. BUT, i have seen some of them eventually break in realy small pieces and been sucked by the oil pickup inside the oil pump with disastrous results. I would advise you not to risk a scenario like this. Thanks for the comment!

@@amtperformance7072 thanks you

On the opposite side of the gears the cams have slots that must be parallel to the face of the head. There is a special tool that inserts and holds the cams together at the right place so you can tighten the central bolt of the exhaust cam

@@amtperformance7072 Is it possible to do it without the tools?

@@jokuvaan6202 Yes it is but you cant avoid to unplug the round caps at the back of the camshafts. The special tool is very easy to make one yourself. It is a straight 5mm thick qnd 3cm wide piece of metal strip with 2 indents to lock the slots of the cams. If you search on the internet you will find pictures of it.

@@amtperformance7072 Thank you very much!

10w-40 is not recommended for this engine. Except if you live in africa with tempratures over 45 celcius. 15000 km is not ideal especially for an engine of this mileage. Better stay at 10000 and you are good to go!

Why not recommended 0w20? I use amsoil 0w20 with high detergent content based much more on magnesium than calcium to keep engine clean inside. Most engine oils use calcium as a detergent base for keeping engine clean, but calcium leave a lot of deposit. Have same car 2012 Auris 1.33 VVTi. I have no oil consumption problem at all but i only have 80`000km.

@@FreeKanal the oil you use is very good quality oil. But because it contains much magnesium it is not legal in europe. At least in many countries it is not even imported. The 0w-20 viscosity is good for colder climates. All engine manufacturers state some different viscosities according to the climate. From my experience i can say that the use of the car have significant role on the oil you use and the change intervals. So don' stick blindly to the manufacturers recomendations.

@@amtperformance7072 I agree i always do oil checks sending samples to the lab i dont trust manufactuer recomendations :P I live in Poland Amsoil is available here. I prefer 0w20 because i do mainly short distance trips and want that oil to reach head of the engine as fast as possible.

No. The cooling channels are way bigger in this engine than others. The problem is the long oil change intervals. The oil is cooked it forms small particles that block the oil control ring channels. Thats what is causing the oil burning!

Ευχαριστουμε πολυ! Στο amtperformance@gmail.com μπορειτε να επικοινωνισετε μαζι μας.

If the EGR valve works correctly i dont recommend blocking it. Eventually it will cause other problems. Blocking it is a temporary fix.

Yes it is the same on 1KR especially the second generation i think. A spun bearing is almost always low oil pressure or too much mileage on the same oil. How is it fixed? Maybe the problem is elsewhere and not just the bearing.

spun bearing is fixed by a mechanic but the ticking noise I am supposing is different especially when I am on low rev range it occurs substantially @@amtperformance7072

Καλησπερα. Ναι Ελλαδα ειμαι!

Πόσο στοιχίζει η επισκευή περίπου? Βάζω 10#40 λάδι και έχω κατανάλωση περίπου 2 λίτρα στα 6000χλμ. Να επιχειρήσω να του βάλω 5#30 ή θα το καεί σα το νερό το λάδι?

Yes! The engine on the video is from a 2010 yaris. In 2009-2011 the problem is really common. But if you find a low mileage car or one that has been rebuild properly, with correct maintenance you should keep it problem free for a while.

@@amtperformance7072 fck i really try to find a city car that has low fuel consumption and great reliability but can rarely go on highways and this was pretty much the perfect car since now 😂😂😂

@@siniteanrazvan3298 It's not like it will burn oil right away. You can check it at a mechanic who knows where to look. There is ways to find the condition of the engine without tearing it down.

@@amtperformance7072 yeah, that's for sure, I think I'm not gonna be staying on this car for more than 2-3 years with maybe 10k km/year at most, in city like 75% or even more

@@amtperformance7072 do you have any idea if the 1.0 is more reliable?

The pistons are TEIKIN. This brand have specific pistons for the 1nr-fe with redesigned oil control ring. I have used them many times with good results. As for the serial number i didnt keep the last box so i dont have it.

The machine shop i work with bought them. The brand is TEIKIN. I can find the serial number if i ask them. I will send you when i have it. Thanks!

Thank you very much.

Very nice! With that frequent oil changes it will last many more!!!

The crankshaft is shown at 31:50. You are right about the camshafts. I put them on another bench and forgot to show them. But the journals and the lobes were in near mint condition with no signs of wear or marks. I will show them on the second part of the video, the assembling of the engine!

The 1nr-fke is equiped with redisigned piston rings and i believe that the problem is solved. I haven't encountered the known problem on these engines. Maybe not yet...😆

Yes it was very ingenious method of re-factorizing the intake manifold... Sometimes we see great things and learn from it. 😆. Thanks for the comment man!

The 1zr-fe is more reliable in long term. It is equipped with better pistons and generally lasts longer with the regular maintenance.

Thank you brother. This question was really confusing to me

I know the owner and he bought it new. The timing chain has never been changed. Not only that but even the water pump and the radiator are never been replaced. I cant believe it myself... The maintenance was always on time and never exceeded 10000km intervals.

Then the key is obviously short oil changes. Here in Europe, they still sell new cars with 30k km oil change service intervals. Let's say a new skoda(vw) kodiaq 2.0 tdi. And people fall for it.@@amtperformance7072