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Great video! Couple questions… ladders.. did you tighten them all the same? They don’t touch the bottom of the post.. so for leveling sake.. I’m puzzled. 2nd, how did you take all the slack in the cables on your first raise? I have a lot slack, even though I haven’t tightened the nut on the cables yet. I’m to point of installing linkage rods.. concerned about all this leveling. Thanks again! I’ve definitely upped your watch hours 😅

The problem isn’t the bushings. You need to do a neutral alignment on the shifter levers. If you put the trans in neutral and can’t slide a 1/4” rod in the bottom slots of the levers then the swivel connections need to be turned until the rod moves freely. The bottom dust shield needs to be removed then you’ll see the slots in each shifter lever. You can make a Hurst alignment rod with 1/4” steel. You need 2-1/2” on the long side and bent to almost 90* for your fingers to grab and slide into the grooves. The angled parts measured on the inside of the angle is 1-3/16”. Hurst shifters are shipped with the plastic alignment tool. I have a plastic and metal one from Hurst from the 70’s. BTW do not use the metal bushings. One good slam in a shift they will shatter.

Thanks for posting the video. I have 2 of the dual drive units. I bought the original MSD in Toronto shortly after the drives were on the market, and payed $ 800 plus for it. I purchased the IEEE 488 connector at the same time, and used the MSD for years, until I moved on to the Amiga. I never regretted buying the drive, it was that good. I think my cartridge of choice back then, was called Fastload, or Fastcopy. It worked well for me, but if I remember correctly, there were some forms of protection the drive couldn't overcome. I liked the cartridge more for the extra functionality.

2133 my relay shows the red battery cable going to the other post. It says battery on the old one. The new one doesn't say Battery. So I hooked up the new one like the old one.

When you're creating your partitions, when you're at the point and see 256 blocks as the starting number, just press '-' and that goes around the horn and gives you the maximum partition size. Way faster than incrementing it up with countless keypresses like you did in the video. Nice video though!

Hi Reviving Retro. Thanks for all your great SX-64 videos, as there aren't too many great resources for fixing SX-64's about the place. I have a question if i can. I was recently very lucky to obtain on SX-64 in Australia. It came in great condition, worked perfectly, and even had the Commodore storage bag! Cost $1500AUD mind you, but that's life in Australia. Anyway, I started playing around with it, and about 30 mins in, I discovered that the SID, while working, sounded terrible. Swapped it out for another and bang... white screen. I've tested everything - all removable chips have been tested and all are working in multiple C64s. Tried only with the mainboard, and with the IO board to try a dead test cartridge, but still only have a white screen, no flashers or symbols like this video. I'm not new to fixing the odd Commodore machine but really don't want to stuff this one - considering how much i've paid! I have new RAM and 74LS257's available (UA3 and UB3) as Im assuming this is the next thing to look at? I'm wondering if you might have any recommendations or suggestions for next steps? Thanks in advance! Adam

great fix - the 82s100 PLAs are very reliable (not being MOS logic) - UE3 OTH like all MOS replacements ICs for normal logic would also be my fist suspicion :-)

Good paint job. I didn't know what to call that paint until you said "Hammer" like finish.

Are you planning to sale the surplus of sx64 you have? 🙂

Thanx, well done.

Question? Have you installed speaker in front dash? If so you have a video on that…?

Awesome my guy. Thank you for this 🤘🏼

What you say at 23:00 does not make any sense. You are emulating "8561" Chips? What?

I have a couple SX-64s. One has no video (black screen) and found out it has a blown fuse on the bottom PCB under the tube. I pulled the fuse out of a working one, and it blew that fuse. Have you had this issue before? And do you know the spec for the fuse. Both of them are SOC TSC 125V 2A fuses, but definitely not quick blow fuses. Couldn't find a good description of it. The SX-64 service manual lists them with part number QMF51A2-2R0S JVC fuses. I have a recap kit, but haven't done anything with it yet. Need to get some more fuses.

Nice work bud 👍. I love seeing the 3 of them stacked on top all working at the end:) Don't see that everyday 😅

I remember seeing these in the computer store when I was in middle school.....I'm sure they had to mop up the drool after I left. It was one of the reasons I saved up my paper route money to buy a C64 instead of an Atari. I really wanted an Amiga, but before I could save up enough the x86 pc's had taken over.

Nice set of machines you got there!

How do you buy a,chip tester. Can't seem to. Locate. It.thanks..Robert

Easiest Video on youtube thank you

Hola, soy de Argentina, gracias al fabricante de electrodomésticos marca Drean, pudimos acceder a la mas popular y querida computadora de todo el mundo, la Commodore 64; Drean armó y vendió también los modelos C16 y C128, también se podían adquirir modelos NTSC de USA; desafortunadamente Drean perdió la licencia de Commodore ya que no tenía el permiso aun para vender el C64c, que no fué ni mas ni menos que el modelo C64 normal pero con la carcasa copiada del C64c, que salió al publico en simultáneo con el lanzamiento en USA; lamentablemente no se pudo continuar con el siguiente suceso que fue Amiga. En aquellos años una computadora era algo muy costoso para el bolsillo del pueblo y las computadoras Amiga eran accesibles solo para los que tenían mucho dinero. Gracias por preservar esas máquinas. Saludos

thank you so much, I was able to use it in my CP500, brazilian trs80 clone.

This did not work for me using a recent Liftmaster. The LED flashes slowly but never fast as you have here when I hold the remote beside it and press a button. Tried pressing a few times again no result. I have a 2023 C*. Anybody else have the same problem.

Good video, I think a new mic chord would have been nice! Thanks

Did you ever make a follow up video on your cnc router/mill? I have been following your design and I am doing the similar build with a Genmitsu 3018 prover v2 that was basically the same as the one you upgraded. I already did the 3040 Y extension I am going to order those big Y rods as soon as I can. I got your X axis plate mixed up with someone else's and printed and it was binding up on the threaded rod and I couldn't get anything on the Z axis to line up, and was having problems with the limit switches. I did cheap it out and found a Bauer 1.25hp router at Harbor Freignt and saved about $80 there. Figured I could buy another for the savings. Are planning to do a follow up. Just interested in how your project turned out, so I know what to expect. Best Wishes

Thank you for this great video! I'm starting to piece together all the components to program an MCM68764. Is there a reason why you went with a Keyestudio ATMEGA2560 vs a clone of the more traditional Arduino Mega with the 16U2 TTL IC? Was it just because you wanted USB-C?

Great video! I'm installing mine as we speak, also by myself, and just did the cables tonight. Using your video as a guide as i go! Much appreciated info!

nice

I install this product on weekly basis. If anyone has any questions regarding the install process -please let me know your concerns

Man, thanks for the awesome video and the how to do instructions I just fixed my 69 Camaro horns off your video

part number please or place to get it?

You totally missed how to hook it to the computer...

Thanks for the tutorial! Not only did you do it on your own... You did most of it one handed! Good job! Mines on order.

Thank you for your time.

Thank you. You explanation about why keys get stuck because of the cracked stems helped me understand why my C128 had a sticky F1 key. I had been trying to find a replacement key cap. When I went to inspect it, sure enough I could see a tiny crack in the stem. I’m going to try 3D printing the plunger.

This helped me fix my SX64 - thanks!

Hello, great video. Would you know what the numbers and letters are on these Astatic microphones? T-UP9 and all the others? I have looked all over and can't find anything on it? Suree would be nice to know what these numbers and letters are on the mic stickers! Thanks.

What an awesome idea! I have the USA-230 in my 57 Chevy Bel Air and would love to add bluetooth. Do you have the files for the printed case that you can share? Thank you in advance!

this helped a lot

Hello, I have a C2 Corvette and it's stuck in gear as your video shows. Could I use the same technic to unstuck my gear on my C2? Thank you, sir!

excellent. thanks worked like a charm!

I don’t have an old remote. I programmed my truck and I got the app. Not sure where the remotes are anymore.

Super easy

Great upgrade, please could you share the stl for the height adapter part used for the delrin lead screw on the bed as it's not included in the files on thingyverse.

Your the man! Simple instructions and worked the 1st time 😊

I remember when these first came out. I already had a C64, an Amiga 1000, and a C128 with 1571 drive. I was like geez, Commodore!!!! Anyway I still wanted one but couldnt justify the expense. I'm actively searching for one but again I still cannot justify the price. I got close...very close a few times to scoring one,.

Nice job! 👍

One of the best uses of the CMD HD is its ability to backup the entire contents of a RAMLink to a so-called "Foreign Partition"... so just in case your RAMLink ever loses its power and, therefore, its content, you *can* restore it from the HD... depending on how often you make a backup.

I still have the HD-100 I bought new in the mid/late-1990s. It still works well too (for now). Regardless, I seriously want this upgrade done for it but I'm not the one to do the hardware parts. Wondering to whom, to where and how best to send it.

I wonder what gear ratio you have and how tall is your tire. Just for reference

Great job! Thank you