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I vacuum seal some of my ammo

Have you tried any of the pulled bullets from American Reloading or CDVS? Just curious what you thought.

Been shooting everything that I reload now and have a bunch of factory ammo that will be used only if I have to. Usually put reloads in zip-loc bags in ammo cans, but I do like your box template idea.

We've had the winter storm too. And I've spent a lot of time in my "dungeon" reloading and making a couple of videos.

I use several methods. Zip locks bags in multiple of 30rnds, stored in an ammo can is my main method. One of my popular budget meyjods, especially for pistol rounds, is using my empty powder cans. 😉

this is good info, ammo cases ( the plastic king are near 5 bucks a box plus shipping. ouch. I would like to see the minute man chest rig. where did you pick up that bandolier? Thanks for all the info. stay warm down there.

Hey man, love your vids. Have you considered adding a tape loop to one box on each layer, like they do in prepackaged cans in the army?

Very informative and easy to follow. Thanks.

Have one love it.

Thank you for the video, sir. I recently purchased a Rossi 92 in 45 colt and I'm thinking about getting one of these loaders, just for reloading what little brass I shoot. How many times can I reload the brass.

I’ve like to use a separate die for crimping instead of doing both functions at once on a turret press. Generally I find it unnecessary though. For 50 AE i had problems with set back and use a cannelure tool on the case and heavily modified a 500 s&w factory crimp die to work with the AE. Thank you for the video!

Should be able to get some serious power out of the thicker 10mm casings

thaannnkssss Boss! thanks of the italy for this lesson!!!

Brass Monkey is my sons company.

Soon there will be a TV show called Ghost Gun Hunters. They will use all these fancy devices to see if they are trying to communicate from the other side lol

I made this as a TikTok video, but it wasn’t allowed so I put it in here.

My powder dispenser does not work so precisely that I can pour gunpowder directly into the cartridge case. I always have to measure the amount of dust on a scale, because the difference in weight is even 0.5 grs. Is there a trick to it?

I'm getting ready to purchase an accurized 45 ACP pistol and wonder about something I saw in a RUclips video about a 1911 pistol unable to load 230 grain bullets due to misfiring cartridges. Can you share which gun manufacturer and model you selected for your choice of pistols so I can investigate more before I commit? Thanx for many great videos.

Most sensible and informative video I have seen yet about how and WHY to set seat and crimp….

still use my 22 hornet loader so much fun

Excellent Thank you

Why make such a complicated scale?

great video

I Love the Lee Hand Press

The case must be expanded while empty with no powder in it. If powder is in it it will cause case bulging. Because you are trying to compress air. This will deform the case every time. The very last 2 steps must be add powderand seat the bullet. Then you will have a perfect case every time.

merci de France

I really like your channel, you seem to be paralleling my reloading path. it's strange how often you answer a question I have about gear or processes. Hope all goes well for you. Thanks RR.

Hi all, I noticed that the tungsten bushing of the 38/357 factory crimp is wider than the one of the sizer die, but is this normal? Thanks.

Lee dipper sets deserve a place in every reloading room. I have used them for almost all my reloading, and get accurate results. For instance, a 5-shot ragged hole in .308, and 5/8-in groups with 30-06. I just pick a mid-range load with the powder and bullet weight used (never near max), load and shoot. To get charge weights with powders not listed in the charge weight reference card, just throw a few charges into a scale and record the results. I use either 5 or 10 charges together and average them for an accurate reading, then record the results. I have made custom dippers out of spent 9mm cases. Shorten the case with a sander and test charge weights with a scale until you get the one you want (throw ten charges together and average them, super accurate method). For instance, with Bullseye I have made 3.8 gr and 4.3 gr. dippers. Use a paper clip twisted around the extractor groove for use as a handle, and you're good to go.

People push the Lee factory crimp dies because they perform the best crimps possible. As they do so 100% of the time without shaving the bullets or buckling the cases. And a big plus is when switching to a bullet that is either longer or shorter one does not have to upset the crimp setting to get the bullet adjusted to its depth. All one has to do is adjust the seating die and the crimp is still good to go. Get a seating die with a micrometer on it and one can easily go back and forth between different bullets in seconds (not minutes).

I just purchased a Creality 3 I’m going to make reloading trays

Lee crimping dies are the only way to fly . That's one of areas they beat all other die makers in.

Do you need primer hole brush?

Great review. Thanks.

Great video, Thanks a lot.

Good information, thank you!

Probably the bulge is caused by these bullets being larger than .357 diameter. The .38 S&W is supposed to use a .361-.362 diameter bullet. These are hard to find, but if these bullets were made for the .38/200 cartridge, they are probably larger than .357. A micrometer will show if I am correct.

I think people can learn a lot from you. Thanks for sharing.

Well done. Thanks

Thanks man 👍🏼

i just let the cat lick mine. Her tongue is rougher than any brass case. Good Kitty!

what Model Number Bair do you have in this video? i’m sure you’ve upgraded by now but i really like it and i’d like to get one of my own

"Popping" primers when using the Lee loader should be a rarity. I've popped one in 50 years, and that was when I was first learning. The two things that make popping primers more likely with the Lee kits are #1 misaligned primers and #2 striking the seating rod AFTER the primer is fully seated. The misalignment is addressed by careful positioning of the tools and the striking after fully seated is addressed by #1 cleaning the primer pockets of any debris (a small screwdriver will suffice), and #2 by checking a couple of times during the process of seating the primers. It isn't a nail - full force hammer strikes aren't needed. Several moderate to heavy taps will suffice. And yes, a non marring hammer is important. Decent video. 👍

Very well explained what to do and why. I just bought a LEE press and thanks to you I know what to do. Thank you for wanting to make this film. Greetings from Poland.

Greetings friend. 1) Your bullet pulling tool is a pair of needle nose plyers, not "vise grips". And 2) Your Needle nose plyers might work better if you grip the bullet from horizontal angle, braced agianst the top of the press. Safe Loading, 😊

The CH Die company was founded by Charles Heckman who was a shooter/ gu n writer from the 50-60s. I had a two die set for 38 special and the use of a single die to size, decap and bell the cases was a bit odd as noted in this video. Belling a case mouth and sizing it in the same die is somewhat counterproductive and wouldnt work at all if it were not for the resilency of brass cases. Your charge of unique sounds about right for the 200 grain bullet. 2.5 grains of unique under a .361 round nose lead at 145 grains is a close duplicate for those factor loads in the video. That bullet diameter is standard for the cartridge though Colt revolvers in that chambering are identical or very close to the .357-358" diameter of the 38 special.Speer reloading manuals often list loads with .357 speer wadcutters regardless of the make of the revolver.

Those powder prices 😭

Try a raw hide mallet,like you so leather crafts

Which De Priming die is that?

Hey, I have a question about your iron C press. I have similar press and the ram is developing some play. is there a remedy that you know of?