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Thank you for your business and your question. First double check that you have the TPS Tool wired correctly (wire colors in the right spot). If you open the throttle, does the reading go above 3.5V? If no, then the wires are likely in the wrong places on the TPS Tool. Send me an email and I can help get you going, my email is at the very top of the instructions that came with the tool. :)

Thanks for your question. They can go bad in a few different ways. The most common way I've seen is when the numbers continually change even though the throttle is not moving. To test yours, watch the reading. If you're not touching the throttle, the reading should not change. Then slowly open and close the throttle. If the numbers change smoothly then the TPS is most likely good. If the numbers get stuck or jump around then the TPS is most likely bad. Or if it does not give a reading at all then it's most likely bad. I hope this helps!.

It's not that big of a deal, you just need to put it back in the right spot. The best thing of course is to get the proper tool and adjust it to the spec. The spec should be in the service manual. If you can't find the spec then post back and we can help you find it, or we can get you close enough that you can then use a TPS Tool to fine tune it back to the best spot. If you can't do that for whatever reason, look carefully to see if it's got a stripe of mechanics paint across the seam between the TPS and the throttle body. Often at the factory they'll put a stripe of paint after everything has been setup. If you can line the paint up very carefully then you've got maybe 50% chance of it being close enough to run OK. It will run better if you set the sensor to spec, but that should get you close enough to get it running, assuming it has some paint. I hope this helps!

Thanks for your question. You didn't specify the model and year you have, but check the common settings page on our web site for your model and year, and on the far right side most of the entries have links to the service manuals online. If you don't see it there, use google to search service.countrycat.com and they have a ton of the Arctic Cat manuals for download, and it might be a good place to buy parts too.

Thanks for your question. No not at all, you just have to adjust it to the correct setting when you put it back on.

Thank you for your business and your comment. That is close enough, especially if it's running good. If you get curious to try other settings in that area to see if you find one that runs better then adjust it up or down by about 0.02V at a time and give it a test. A change of 0.02 will make a small but noticeable difference. But as-is you're so close to spec it will be fine, I would not spend any time trying to get closer.

Thanks for your comment. It could be a bad TPS. Start at idle and slowly open the throttle while watching the reading. If it jumps around or doesn't change smoothly then it's a bad TPS. Several customers have received bad aftermarket TPS right out of the box, so if you got one of the cheap aftermarket ones from Amazon or eBay then I wouldn't be surprised if it was bad out of the box. The OEM sensors should be solid. Also make sure you've got the correct TPS setting for your model and year. Countrycat.com has the service manuals online for a whole pile of Arctic Cat models, so if you don't see your exact motor listed on the common settings page on our web site then check out that site for the service manual. I hope this helps!

​@@TPSToolthanks bud I appreciate the response and video .. I thinkn your right bad TPS . Another ordered

@@larryallen5893 OK good luck, please post back and let us know if that fixes it. :)

@@TPSTool 2nd new TPS arrived today .. and just as u said it was a faulty one from Amazon first time around .. I spent countless hrs trying to figure this out and never suspected a new part would be the issue. Dam u China! Lol cheers

@@larryallen5893 Excellent, I'm glad it was an easy fix and thanks for posting back with the update!

Thanks for your comment. Lots of the 850's are in this same range, so there are reasonable odds that your 850 would be the same. You can always write down your orginal setting then try this one, and go back to the old one if you want. Also check out the common settings page on our web site for your specific model year, we have the exact settings for several years of the 850's listed.

Thanks for your question! It looks like Honda does not publish voltage numbers for the Foreman 500. I did not find the manual for your specific year, but in the earlier years they give a setting in ohms. Check out the Honda section on the common settings page on our web site, there's information there with links to service manuals that hopefully will be helpful to you. If you can get your hands on the service manual for your specific year then that would be best, but otherwise the info on our web site as mentioned above might help. I hope this helps!

@@TPSTool thank you

Thanks for your comment. Please check out the common settings page on our web site, that model should be listed, probably about the middle of the Polaris section.

Thanks for your comment. The tool shown in this video can be purchased at tpstool.com, or any of the places listed on the "Where To Buy" page on that web site. I hope this helps!

Thanks for your question. I only use OEM sensors on my own motors, so with that in mind; based on customer feedback it's not uncommon for the cheapies to be bad out of the box, but I've purchased a few for use in demo videos and they function good enough for a demo video. So my opinion is the OEM sensors seem to be better quality, but the cheapies seem to function if you get a good one, though it's unknown if the linearity or reliability matches the OEM sensors.

Thank you for your comment. If you're referring to the tool, you can buy it at TPSTool.com. If you're talking about parts for the motor, Partzilla.com is one of my favorite places to buy parts, but any Polaris dealer should be able to help. Please feel free to email me if you have any other questions, my email address is on the About Us page on our web site. :)

Thanks for your comment. A bad TPS can have multiple symptoms. It might not read at all, or the reading may jump around, or the reading might get stuck on one value as you open and close the throttle, etc.. Basically the numbers should be stable when it's just sitting there, and should change smoothly as you open and close the throttle. Anything else is possibly a bad TPS. Here's an example video I made for a customer showing his bad TPS compared to a good one. In this case the failure mode was the reading bouncing all over the place when it should have been stable: ruclips.net/video/csLeF5AwcN8/видео.htmlsi=gCB1FIRWWLrl-AWt

Thanks for your comment. I don't have the service manual for that specific model year. I would guess it's likely the same as the 2018 model year, which would be 0.71V at idle. You can write down your original setting then try this one to see how it runs, then revert back to your original setting if necessary. Or if you can get your hands on the service manual for your specific model year then the value should be in there. I hope this helps. :)

If the TPS is OK, next I would check the fuel pressure. A common failure is the in-tank fuel line or filter can burst and leak, which leads to very low fuel pressure which can cause the issue you describe. If the fuel is low enough, sometimes you can see the fuel spraying around inside the tank if this is what happened. If the TPS and fuel pressure are OK, I would next check the fuel filter that is inside the fuel line disconnect, it's tiny and can clog. If that's OK, then check the injector to make sure it's clean and the spray pattern is OK. I hope this helps!

@@TPSTool looks like I may have sorted it, I reset the tps but still didn’t work, I couldn’t adjust the idle still. So I unplugged the tps altogether and started the bike up ran a little better, so I turned bike off and reconnected the tps and hey presto TPs is within spec and both cold start and idle now working.

Thanks for your comment. That's a tricky one to diagnose from here. If you're in the bottom 1/2 or 1/3 of the throttle when the hesitation happens, then a TPS adjustment is more likely to affect it than if you're closer to full throttle. It wouldn't hurt to try tweaking it a little higher (richer) or lower (leaner) to see what happens, make changes about 0.02V at a time. But that said, it could be a number of things. Check all the basics first. If that year has an IAC valve then definitely make sure that valve is working and not stuck or dirty. Replace the fuel filter if it hasn't been replaced to be sure it's not restricting flow. Also make sure the fuel pressure is correct and that the injector spray pattern is OK. I realize they just cleaned the injectors, but it doesn't hurt to double check the spray pattern. Also make sure the spark plug wire and plug itself are OK. Also check the wiring harnesses carefully for any wear spots, several Polaris models have known issues with wires rubbing on various parts and eventually wearing through the insulation. Also make sure the air filter is clean, exhaust (spark arrestor) isn't plugged with carbon, and make sure the gas is good. Lots to check, but this is the best I can come up with off the top of my head. Good luck and please post back to let us know when you figure it out!

@@TPSTool Thank you. I'll let you know what I find out.

@@TPSTool Thank You for your response. I have some new information on the 2012 Polaris 800 Razor having issues at 45mph. I was asked if it could go faster than 45mph. Just took it for another test. As usual it hesitates at 45mph. I pushed it on a longer stretch and when it gets to 50mph it stops hesitating. When I get to 55mph it hesitates again. Top speed is 60 mph at a maximum of 6500 rpm. To obtain codes, one video suggested turning the key off and on 3 times and it will show a code. Didn’t see anything pop up when I tried it. I don’t know if this 800 has the ability to display any codes? I’d like to include some responses from folks kind enough to offer suggestions to see if it triggers any other ideas pointing to one thing. The spark plugs were replaced about 1.5 years ago. They were examined recently and found to be good. I still might replace them as that’s a cheaper item. I suppose it could be a bad spark plug wire.. or coil wire. Your thoughts? Suggestions: fuel pressure check, sounds like fuel pump, spray water on spark plug wires and coil wire, Fuel stabilizer, Belt might be slipping, inspect clutches and belts, don’t think its clutch related, sounds like clutches sticking, check belt for damage, weights in primary clutch are too light, was IAC mechanically stuck open or electrically being opened. Thanks again. I’m hoping this new information might directly point to something that I will try and tackle on my own. Taking it in is a last resort for me. I promise, to get back to you once I find the issue! Thank you kindly. Very much appreciated. Dave

@@davepo6443 I think you're on the correct approach to just go item by item methodically, removing things from the list. I would definitely replace the spark plugs, it's cheap and easy. Also keep an eye on the RPMs, just in case it's possible that the clutch/belt is slipping and the motor is hitting the rev limiter, which would feel like a stumble. I'm curious to hear what you find. :)

@@TPSTool I called the repairman.. I printed off all the suggestions offered for him. Also removed senders contact info before doing so. He feels bad. He said the factory setting for TPS was .73 and thats where he set it at. He said he will fix the issue labor free and if parts are under 100.00 he'll eat it. If over 100.00 we'll talk, but at his cost. With all the suggestions it seems like it's pointing at the following: possible fuel pump which he checked, but not at high speed, a clutch and belt inspection or issue, spraying water on old ones first. I don't know how old the wires are so probably worth doing. I did suggest a rebuild kit for fuel pump he said no they can still have a problem and he would go with an All Balls fuel pump if needed. He has a great reputation in town for doing things right. Thank you again, I'll let you know what the verdict is.

Thanks for your question. It's possible that some ECU could give the voltage, but what I've seen personally the OBD data typically only has the percentage open. The percentage would be off if the TPS voltage isn't set correctly. However some ECUs have TPS setup built-in, such as some of the SxS that use motors built by Yamaha. So long story short, every ECU is different so it's not possible for me to give you a direct yes/no answer. It depends on the motor and ECU.

It's a voltage divider, you would need to take a couple of measurements then do some quick math. What motor are you working with? Is it an FCR carburetor by chance?

@@TPSTool it's a 40mm mikuni CV with TPS

@@Philche Which motor is it on?

@@TPSTool It's a 1700cc V twin. 1670 cc, V-twin, 4-stroke, OHV pushrod, carburetor.

@@Philche OK, I was hoping for a specific year and model so I could search a little bit. Long story short, for a carburetor the TPS typically does not need to be nearly as precise as it does for EFI, so if the specs are given in ohms then that will be the easier way to go, only because the specs are already given that way. But if you want to calculate the voltage, check out my video titled "Polaris TPS, 0.46 or 0.70, which is correct? Ranger, Sportsman and more". In the second part of that video I show how to calculate the voltage after taking the measurements. I hope this helps!

Thank you very much for your comment. I didn't find a free download of the manual for your exact model year online, but if you can get your hands on the service manual for your year then the setting will be in there. Looking at the other model years and taking a guess, yours could likely be 0.67V or 0.71V. Maybe write down your original reading in case you want to revert back to it, and try these two settings. Please post back and let us know what you find out. :)

Thanks for the reply. I just ordered the service manual and I will find out and reply back in case someone else needs it. I Have to troubleshoot some other things before I get to the tps.

@@xhali6173 That would be excellent, thank you in advance!

So according to the manual for 2016 Polaris Scrambler 850 HO Output Reading Using polaris digital tool 3.3 V Reference Voltage = 0.46 V Using your 5V tps tool would be .70 V Also some resistance checking to test tps: Pin 2 to pin 3 Throttle position Closed to Open 1000 - 5000 ohms +/- 1k ohm Resistance value should change smoothly as throttle is opened and closed Pin 2 to pin 1 Closed to Open 5000 - 1000 ohms +/- 1k ohms Resistance value should change smoothly as throttle is opened and closed Pin 1 to pin 3 Open OR Closed 5000 ohms +/- 40% NOTE: Reading does not change with throttle position

@@xhali6173 Thank you very much for posting back! If you have a hall effect type sensor (most of the inexpensive aftermarket TPS are hall effect type) then they may not respond to the resistance test the same way a resistive TPS would. If you connect the TPS Tool, does the voltage change as you open the throttle? It will read under 1V at idle and above 3.5V at full throttle if it's connected correctly.

Thanks for your comment. You didn't mention the model year, but don't be afraid to try some lower TPS settings too. For example, for the 2007 Ranger 700 the manual specifies 0.710, but multiple customers have reported back that 0.640 worked better. I'm not promising that this is the issue, but if you're out of ideas then maybe give this a try. Please post back your result! If your model has an IAC valve (Idle Air Control), also make sure it's clean and working correctly. There is a Polaris Digital Wrench tool that the dealers use, I don't know how much it costs or if a dealer would sell it to you.

Thanks for your question. The most common causes would be either you have it plugged into the TPS Tool incorrectly (wrong wire GND, FB and 5V) or a bad TPS, especially if it's a cheap aftermarket TPS. Send me an email and I can help you out.

Thanks for your comment. I edited this down into a short (1 minute time limit) so I cut out most of the time that I'm turning the sensor back and forth, here you see only the very end. You can see several seconds of me turning the sensor back and forth in the full length video that this short was taken from, here's a link: ruclips.net/video/oplK5ilJY5g/видео.html

@@TPSTool thank you

It could be that you're connected to the wrong wires, or that the TPS is bad. What are you using to read it?

@@TPSTool hi I managed to read it correctly must have been a bad connection, thanks for the reply

@@pitracer1979 Excellent, thanks for posting back the solution. :)

@@TPSTool hi there, when I start my bike with the cold start pulled open on throttle body it will idle but as soon as I push it back in bike dies instantly. Is this anything to do with the tps position? The coke start isn’t adjustable it’s just on and off pull out push in

@@pitracer1979 Hello! I just responded to your question in the other thread, let me know if you don't see my response. :)

That could be a couple of things, including the TPS. Start by making sure the throttle body is is clean and there's no carbon where the throttle plate closes against the throttle body. Then check the TPS. For that year it should be 0.60V at idle. Here's a link to the service manual: support.countrycat.com/posts/2799423-2012-wildcat-service-manual I hope this helps!

@@TPSTool thank you i will check it this weekend,

Thanks for your question. If I've looked your motor up correctly, it uses TPS part# 3131705, which has the Model-4 style plug and is adjustable, so yes the tool will work for your 2023 Sportsman 570 EPS. Here's a link to the part that I looked up so that you can double check that I choose the motor that matches your ATV: www.partzilla.com/catalog/polaris/atv/2023/sportsman-570-eps-r01-a23see57a1-a3-a6-a9/engine-throttle-body-and-fuel-rail-a23see57a1-a3-a6-a9-c0211232-2

Thank you for the feedback, I'll try to talk slower in future videos. You can also adjust the playback speed to slow it down if that helps with this video. :)

Thank you for your comment. Check out the common settings page on our web site, there's info for the 2014 Arctic Cat 500 ATV with a link to the service manual. The pictures look like the Model-1 adapter, setting should be 0.68V at idle. Initially try the tool with black in GND, red in FB and green in 5V. You will know it's correct if it reads under 1V at idle and above 3.5V at full throttle. Send me an email if you have any trouble with the tool and I'll help you get going.

Thanks for your comment. I believe those are speed limited on purpose to meet regulations for commercial use. I'm not familiar with that model myself, but it appears the speed limit is adjustable, so maybe the service manual or owners manual gives details on how to adjust or maybe remove the speed limitation. Please post back if you figure it out.

Thank you for your comment! If you need specs for a different motor, check out our common settings page: tpstool.com/help/common-tps-settings/

Thanks for your comment. You've got a lot going on there. I would start by checking the service manual for the TPS specifications. I'm guessing you're using an OBD reader to read the throttle percentage, but if the TPS itself isn't adjusted correctly then the ECU might think the throttle is still open a little bit even when the throttle plate is fully closed. Start by making sure the throttle body is super clean, so there is no carbon holing the throttle plate open. Then check the TPS reading (voltage) and compare it against the specification in the service manual. Once that is correct, if it still doesn't read 0% when the throttle is closed, then next check to see if that ECU has a procedure for learning the TPS position. I hope this helps!

Thank you for your comment! I think you've got a 50/50 chance on which one, if either, went bad. For the TPS, you can connect a tool like this one and slowly move it through the range making sure the numbers change smoothly. If the reading jumps around or gets stuck then the TPS is likely bad. The pedal sensor is likely similar. See if you can get a copy of the shop manual for your car, there should be specifications and test procedures for both in there.

Thanks for your comment. First make sure the tool is connected correctly. Does the reading rise to over 3.5V at full throttle? If not then the tool isn't connected correctly, or the TPS could be bad. Send me an email and I'll help you get going.

​@@TPSTool i emailed you

Can you post time stamps? The setting is the same for both methods.

​@@TPSTool feel you may need to elaborate a bit more

@@flaash1067 Sure, which part do you need more elaboration on? Also check out the help video section on our web site, there are a pile of videos there that might also help: tpstool.com/help/tps-tool-howto-videos/

Thanks for your question. As far as I'm aware, the 2022 is 0.40V with the throttle plate fully closed. I'm not sure why KTM stopped publishing the values. Before you make any adjustments, take your reading at-idle and a reading with the throttle plate fully closed, then you'll know where it was set from the factory in case you want to go back to it. For flameouts, make sure your idle isn't too low. If the idle is too low it will flameout easily even with perfect fueling. If the idle is good, first try a slightly lower TPS setting, decrease by ~0.02V and give it a test. Repeat the adjustment as long as you see improvement. If that makes it worse then try a richer setting (increase 0.02V at a time), but flameouts are commonly from being too rich so that's why I would try the lower setting first. Please post back and let us know how it goes!

Will do! I have one on the way after watching these vids last night. And thanks for the quick reply! So test it running at idle, then off? Or by closed you mean backing the idle out all the way with it off to get the difference like you did here? I think my idle is ok but honestly never touched it. Depending on where my values are at, should I do what you did here and turn idle all the way out, then set to .4, then idle back up to where it's idling nicely?@@TPSTool

@@Tburnette60 Thank you very much for your business! If you take the reading as-is (with the idle set as-is), then back the idle all the way out until the throttle plate is fully closed and take another reading, then you will have both the factory base setting (throttle plate fully close) and your current idle speed setting. This will make it possible to return to exactly the settings that you have now if you ever want to. So if you get all out of whack and want to go back to your original setting, back the idle all the way out and adjust the TPS to the base value you wrote down, then turn the idle up until it reads the idle value that you wrote down. Now you're back to exactly where it was before you adjusted it. Does this make sense? :)

Thanks for your question. In theory you should not have to adjust the TPS after installing new injectors or a tank. Was the idle low before you replaced the parts?

@@TPSTool It was a little low, but I attribute that to only having 20 psi fuel pressure. Has new spark plugs as well.

@@roberttanner4225 Low fuel pressure will make it run lean, fix the fuel pressure issue before bothering with anything else. The manual will have the spec for fuel pressure, I'm not sure what it is off the top of my head.

@@TPSTool Sorry, I have replaced Fuel Pump Unit with the tank assembly as well as injectors. My first question was not clear, sorry. I have 40 psi now on the new injectors. off idle throttle response is not crisp as it used to be either. Thank you for your time!

@@roberttanner4225 While replacing those would not affect the TPS, you could adjust the TPS as a way to tune it a bit. Make adjustments up or down about 0.02V at a time, that should get you a small but noticeable change. Try adjusting down first (leaner), keep repeating the 0.02V adjustment as long as it gets better. If it's not better then adjust in the other direction. Similar to tuning a carburetor, turn it up a little and down a little looking for your favorite spot. It's too sensitive to eyeball the adjustment, use the TPS Tool will tell you how much you've moved it.

For most cases, on a bike with a carburetor the TPS adjustment is not nearly as critical as it is for an EFI motor, so using a multi-meter in the ohms setting is fine for a carburetor. This is how most of the service manuals for the older carburetor bikes instructed to do it For EFI motors the TPS adjustment is much more critical and setting it by voltage is a lot more precise, so service manuals for EFI motors typically instruct how to set it by voltage. The reason is, for most carburetor motors the TPS only affects the timing, and only a little bit. On an EFI motor the TPS affects the timing and the fueling, and tiny changes to the fueling can make a very big difference in how it runs. So on an EFI motor if you adjust the TPS by as little as 0.02V, you'll see a small but noticeable change. On a carburetor motor you would never notice an adjustment this small.

It sounds like you have the tool connected incorrectly. Try swapping the GND and 5V wires. Send me an email if that doesn't solve it. The setting for that motor is listed on our common settings page: tpstool.com/help/common-tps-settings/

In addition to the TPS, be sure to check that the fuel injector is clean, the filters are clean and the fuel pressure is good. All of these can make it run lean. Also check for any air leaks between the throttle body and the head.

Thanks for the reply. Wasn’t expecting anything. Appreciate it. I’ll have to get a fuel pressure tester. How do you check injectors? Remove and?

@@nelsod76 Without a cleaning kit, the best way I can think of is to do whatever you can to get a good view of it and see what type of pattern it gives you with wide open throttle while trying to start it. A spray pattern is good, streams or drips are bad. Motion Pro makes a cleaning kit that might work with that injector.

You either need to work 10 seconds at a time, or use the powered tool shown in this video. Maybe get a buddy to help by kick starting it every time it stalls.

@@TPSTool thanks so much for always getting back I’ve asked a lot of machanics on you tube and no one ever bothers to get back to me u always do the last time u told me to get new fuel pump and did and bike ran great so I appreciate ur time and help you are the best videos explained perfect TOP GUY👊🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿💪👍

@@TPSTool if I kick it when it starts it should give me reading

With the pigtail, start the bike and let it idle. Put a fan in front so you can take your time and the bike doesn't overheat.

With pigtail and multimeter with kick start

@@stevenmcallister2230 The powered tool is easiest, or if using the pigtail you can start the bike and let it idle while you work. You might want to put a fan in front of it so it doesn't overheat.

@@TPSTool bike only runs for 10seconds then dies checked everything EFI light flashes 6times says throttle body sensor to high or to low

@@stevenmcallister2230 Either the TPS is really out of range, or one of the wires in the harness is bad, or the TPS itself is bad. Do I remember correctly that you've got a 2012 250SXF? If yes, try to get it as close to 0.60V at idle as you can within the 10 seconds that it will run. If you get it in that range and you're still getting the error, start checking the wire harness on the bike to see if any of the wires are shorted or broken.

@@stevenmcallister2230 I replied to some of your comments on other videos, I hope it helps. :)