Видео

@@SoulRollerFIN let us know then, what happened.

Same issue today, any news from the mechanic?

​@@DMind_ so, they found that some inverter fuse had blown. They also noticed that some DC/DC heat shield was missing. After changing that blown fuse to a new one the car would start the diesel engine and it was driving normally, though without electric power. They said there was also other error codes, which would require further inspection, but that would take a lot of time and therefore would be expensive, over 1000 eur. (I did not have them checked, over 1000 eur just for a checkup sounds insane and don't want to spend my savings on that.) I asked them did they charge the hybrid battery at all and they said no. I picked up the car, drove back home after getting some groceries and it's now charging the battery. At least I hope it's charging normally. Will test how the hybrid works tomorrow. BTW, that DC/DC heat shield is like under 90 eur part, which you can apparently quite easily install yourself. I opted to buy the part and have one of my petrol head friends install it.

@@martinjev00 just replied to another comment about this.

Yes I repaced them. They are worn and loose.

Hi. I had problem with IGM module. One of IGBT transistors was shot and that paralysed the whole car

@@martinjev00 thanks for answer.now I have broblem with alternator-generator belt broken twice. And sometimes had the same issue with electric drive.

@@martinjev00Hi, Can you share if the car was showing any symptoms before this?

@@angelrusenov1422 about day or two before, the climate didnt want to work correctly and car put itself on diesel. Not any text in dashboard. I think then already IGM module was shot. The day car died, was very hot, about 37 celsius. I started driving with PURE, then car went over to diesel itself. When tried to restart car, it died catastrophically. In the middle of crossroad, rush hour. It was lovely😁😁

​@@martinjev00which country are you based. Any chance people who fixed your issue can repair same module I'd just module send to them?

I cleaned air channels as much as possible. Swirl flaps repaced with new ones. Limp mode problem i hadnt before and after swirl change...

Yes, even bought new 12V battery, but it didnt solve the problem

Thinking about buying one of those. Please update when you solve the problem. Thanks

@@martinjev00 any update?

@@RBenz-ki6uw It was inverter module under the HV battery. One of its IGBT transistor modules was shot and that paralysed the whole car.

@@martinjev00 Hi! How reliable is this car, in your opinion? How many kms hour V60 has, and how much you paid for this repair? Thank you in advance!

Brake cleaner was the most effective.

@@martinjev00 Do you remember cover screw tightening torque? Value?

In my case, when arm was off, tehere was absolutely no change in engine work. No power loss, no error codes. Engine worked nicely with arm off.

For me it generated some trouble codes. Cant remember specific codes, but popped off many times and same codes appeared.

actually in video its not noticeable... Engine misfires a little also. I dont know what the problem was but now its gone.

I agree with you

Yes, i agree.

Jah, see on seesama mida soomlase videos kommenteerisin. Ostsin tema käest, tõin Eestisse ja ehitasin ümber. Minu kanalis on ka jupike videot valmis autost.

@@martinjev00 nägin seda videot, täitsa hea näeb välja nüüd, hästi tehtud :)

Lõpuni valmis ehitatud ja alles jah. Automaat oli üks eesmärkidest.

@@martinjev00 ahsoo, okei siis, ma ise sierra tüüpi poisike, aga ei ole veel ühtegi normaalset leidnud odavalt, peab vist ootama kuni see viiruse jura otsa saab

Its quite "normal" that they wear out after about 200-250t km. Basically you cannot do anything to prevent it.

Ei tunne sinu saksa(?) keelt☺

Cino he cannot speak, he cannot write.........🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

280 000 km

Only ever get the kit from Volvo main dealer. It comes with a rubber seal and liquid gasket and all you need. For around 120 quid. It's not a cheap job labour wise though so only worth it if your doing the job yourself as a d5 will run forever without the flaps working as long as they are held open. I've got 1 d5 that's had them open for lest 80,000 miles of 342, 673 miles and it's fine.

@@cooperwilliams4686 I have the same problem with the swirl flaps as you in your previous video. You say that it will run fine as long as they stay open.. How do I get them to stay? I get error every time the arm are failing. Now I have just fixed it with steel wire

@@pivo1357 They are open when the arm is pushed back. You can see this in videos on RUclips. I just pushed it back and then wedged an old Allen key between the head and the arm. Unfortunately I will pop up with a fault now and again but the fault doesn't effect running or performance. As I buy these to run to 4000000 miles and scap them I don't have to worry about codes for resale. To replace the flaps involves removing the injectors and on high mileage engines the risk of damaging them is high and the expense is very high so its really not worth it. I replaced them on my last car but haven't bothered on my latest one or my wife's and they are fine

As far as i know, on the bottom circuit board, some chip needs reballing. Try to press on the bottom of your RNS and see if it chages anything. I didn't repair it. Just bought a new android headunit.

​@@martinjev00I have same problem can you recommend what unit I can get??

Thanks!

its called a ute not a truck, utes are car based pickups

@@IrishWannabe never new that

Thanks!