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It is indeed a great kit and I'm looking forward to building it. Sooo many kits, not enough time.😀

Thank you. That's the number 1 take away from this ... patience. I'm glad to see you are enjoying the content.

Thank you very much for the feedback.

Thank you! Cheers!

Hey there Neil. So, the story behind this Kubelwagen is that it was issued to a German unit maybe 6 months or a year prior to the start of the North Africa campaign. Therefore it was painted in Panzer Grey at the factory. Upon arrival in North Africa it was painted in the field by the unit. For the first couple of months in North Africa, stores of paint etc was very sparse. There are 2 colours to the tropical camo during the first year and they are RAL 8000 and RAL 7008. There are photos of vehicles painted in just 1 colour rather than the 2 colour camo and this could well be that the limited paint available was used incorrectly to ensure full coverage on the vehicles being sprayed. I elected to spray the Kubelwagen in 1 colour, RAL 8000. You didn't miss anything .... my camera footage of that process went bye bye and I couldn't recover it. But if you imagine me spraying it with my trusty airbrush, then that's as much as I can do 😀 Mission Models Paints are difficult to find in some regions. I might suggest AK Real Colours RAL8000 and RAL7008. They are fairly accurate for the first DAK Tropical Paint schemes and are great paints to use. I don't know about being lost in Pommyland. Seems like a great place to be. We spent 5 weeks there last year and are dying to go back again.

That sounds cool Robert. What do you think of the kit ?

Thanks Chris.

Thanks again Gary for the feedback. I'm glad you're enjoying the content mate.

Thank you very much for the feedback.

no, no need to use a metal primer if you use a burnishing fluid. The burnishing fluid acts as the primer. Ultimately, the final finish you want to have will guide you on what products and methods you should use. The vast majority of my metal tracks are burnished so they have the well used and slightly rusty look before I start adding paints or pigments to further improve the weathering.

@@BlackHatScaleModels Thank you for your kind explanation. It was very helpful. :)

If it's in scale, yeah why not try it. I guess there's lots of similar products that will make suitable road surfaces. I aim for finding something that's in scale and cheap. Colour isn't important as it gets painted, and you can add dry pigments or enamels over the top to blend the perfect tones and effects for your personal taste.

Cheers Gary. I think my journey with static grass started when I decided years ago that it just doesn't look realistic either in its original colour or when applied to a base. I've always sprayed it with various greens or browns depending on the final result I was after. Nightshift, Martin Kovack, taught me that black basing was the final part of the puzzle that I needed. Hope you try the technique... it will step up your grass effects to the next level.

Glad you like it!

Hi Gary, I do believe they have a limited use for the serious scale modeller, outside of small detail work as I mentioned in the video. Not a "must have" but a "nice to have" tool.

I think it will be their biggest seller 😀

Cheers Brett, and thank you for the support mate. I used Tamiya paints for ... cough cough .. 30 + years. They have been a solid choice for many and I still use them for certain tasks that acrylics just don't manage to do. I've been using Mission Models pretty heavily now for 5 years and they are brilliant if you know how to use them correctly. They are certainly different to other acrylics as the pigments are organic based. However, I've extensive tested the new ATOM range of acrylics and I'd strongly recommend them to anyone looking for water soluble acrylics that are "easy" to use. They are able to be brush painted as well which is a huge step up from Vallejo Model Air. You need to order them online at the moment as I don't think anyone in Aus stocks them in a retail outlet. BNA certainly have stock coming through. Give them a crack if you want the safety of using a water based system. I thin my ATOM paints using Mission Models thinner/reducer. It works brilliantly and the ATOM paints spray smoooooth and flawlessly. Clean up is a breeze. Glad you found my channel. Dave, Ian and Julian are great guys and I'm really thankful for their support. Best Podcast in our hobby if you ask me 👍

Glad it was helpful and thanks for the feedback 👍

Thanks Craig. It's always a pleasure when I know someone gets something out of these videos. I'm looking forward to seeing more of your dioramas mate.

Thank you very much ❤️

HI Gary, Thank you mate. I've certainly learnt over the years to slow down and think through what I'm trying to do 😀 I guess ultimately, we are our worst critics and judge ourselves harshly. I'm sure your Vignettes made your Grandsons very happy. No matter how critical we are of our own work (and I'm very critical of my own), it's the reactions of those around us that is the payoff for our hard work.

@@BlackHatScaleModels Thanks Stewart. Whilst I think I could have done better, those Vignettes take pride of place on my grandsons’ bedroom display shelves, along with sport trophies and the other stuff they are interested in, and they are always asking if I can make them more. This makes me very happy to say the least, and I have recently finished a couple of armour models for just that purpose. as I said, I will be keen to follow this series to see how I can make the finished product a little better. Cheers for now!

Thank you Evan. Yes, I'm hoping all the parts come to gather so I can get this built in time.

There's plenty of time remaining so you stand a good chance of getting it done. What are you building?

Cheers Chris.

My pleasure 😊

It's just one of those things that had to be mentioned because it's so iconic.

Rommels radio command vehicle was a Sd.Kfz.250/3. This particular kit is the 250/1. It's not meant to be the radio command version and no, you cannot build that particular version out of the box. You will notice that I mention it because it is a version of the 250. I like all versions of the 250 and it's worth noting that others will always draw comparisons to Rommels vehicle because of it's own widespread popularity.

Trust me, it shocked the guy who discovered it too. Total accident. When he showed a group of us I think many just couldn't believe it as it goes against what we think "acrylics" react to. ATOM may not be totally water soluble, but may indeed sit somewhere in the middle much like Tamiya acrylics do. I'd like to know more about their chemical composition .... or maybe not. My head is very full of information I no longer use 😀

Thanks Craig. Glad you liked the content. It's an exciting time to be in the hobby because there's still more for us to learn and techniques like this expand on our abilities to get the results we want to achieve. Loving it !!

Yes Robert you would likely damage more than just the top coat of ATOM paint. Although, that could depend on some variables. If there were several days between coats of ATOM paint the lower layer may harden enough to resist the Odourless Thinner for much longer. Spray the top coat very thinly, it will chip must faster. So I've done a bit of testing with ATOMm paints and so far I like them a lot.

Hi Gary, Yes I agree that it's not a quick process. Its strength is in how we can absolutely control the outcome because it is so slow. It really reduces the chances of things happening too quickly on you. That said..... where I see this technique being used in is making specific weathering effects that need the top layer to be worn away without interfering with the layer below it. Some examples that come to mind are: 1. Say you made a Pacific theatre US Navy Fighter. It has a salt and weather worn paint. Do that in Tamiya or Mission Models etc. Then spray all your NAVY markings using ATOM paints. Then use this technique to weather the markings. 2. Create a rusty old truck that has lots of rust but still some remnants of the original colour paint on top. Start with creating all those lovely rust effects. Totally rusty panels. Then using ATOM paints, spray on the top colour coats and wear them back using this technique. You could product highly worn away paint areas, or just weathered paint with a bit of rust bubbling through etc. The possibilities are endless. The best part is we can wear and chip the top coat without damaging what's under that.

It's a disappointing feature of this kit, especially when it's not difficult to make it a workable feature. However, the pivot point could be cut away and re-glued into another position fairly easily.

TRex probably do some in a 3D printed resin. I haven't checked them myself but they may be worth exploring.

Great Choice. I think it's a great kit. I'm very much looking forward to the build and hopefully you feel the same way once you receive yours.

Thanks mate, me too. I need to find some additional figures that interest me and build a diorama with it.

@@BlackHatScaleModels hey stewy, did you get my email ?

Sure did. Just sent you a reply 👍

Cheers Craig. Yes it's a great kit. Certainly excellent value for money given it's under $60 in Australia.

awesome. That video might be useful for your build.

Hello again Gary. Thank you for your kind words as always. I'm happy you found something of use for yourself in the video. Mate, if even just a handful of people take something positive from each video then my work has been truely worth the effort. As I often say, my way is not the right way for everyone. But if you take a bit from me and a bit from others, then you'll find a weathering process that works best for you. Lots more still to come from me mate

Great video mate! Thanks. I feel for the tank commander in the opening - he’s gonna have some bruises!

@@craigstanley2848 yeah he might be wearing a padded helmet, but his brain is going to be soup. How's the barrel strike into the compacted ground. that's going to need more than re-zeroing the barrel 😀😀

bribing bi to bb😅thyu😊

Lot's to look at. Whilst we were a small presence in Vietnam we certainly had a significant impact in the region we operated in around Nui Dat. Enjoy the journey

Thank you Tina, I appreciate the feedback.

Thank you.

No, not a fan of people per se. But I do love good ideas and this one ticked a lot of boxes for me. It's just polite to acknowledge the person who created the idea.... that and I don't want to be accused of stealing someone's idea and promoting it as my own haha

Good job on the model as well .

@@Mrtwowongs Thanks John. Appreciate the feedback mate

Oh totally, yes. These things opened my mind to a lot of useful options for the hobby and after a quick learning phase, it's been receiving a solid work out with several projects. Highly recommend.

ahhh indeed I have made a boo boo with the year. Haha.. luckily it's an easy fix. I have no idea how none of us have not picked that up, so thank you. As for Panzer 1 in Russia during Operation Barbarossa, of the approx 3,300 Panzers that invaded Russia, about 410 were Panzer I. The truth is that Germany needed to use every available vehicle to not only conduct an invasion on such a massive scale, but be able to keep their supply lines secure from Partisan action. The light tanks, Panzer I and II were primarily tasked with reconnaissance and policing activities, not as gun tanks. My references for this build are solid and cover many aspects of not only unit markings, but use of the tanks and how they weathered in the Russian summer. As per the unit markings, this model depicts a Panzer I that is a 10th Panzer Division veteran of both the Polish and French campaigns, then moving to Operation Barbarossa. There are no recorded losses of Panzer I during Operation Barbarossa and the vehicles with the 10th Pzr Division actually ended up serving in Tunisia with that division as part of the Fifth Panzer Army in the Deutsche Africa Korps.

Thanks. Yeah I'm also looking forward to catching up with you there mate. Should be a hoot.

@@BlackHatScaleModels It's run by a great club that make it so welcoming to be there and the venue is the best for a model show, so much natural light you will really like it there.

Say it isn't so Les. There's always room for more toys. haha

Had a great time and the comp. results were better than expected. I entered 3 models (all in the same category - Senior Large AFV Models pre- 1950). I grabbed third place behind the Master Modeller Sam Dwyer, plus 2 Commendations. Honestly, I couldn't have done better. So very happy with the result and now I'm looking forward to QMHE in Brisbane in August.

@@BlackHatScaleModels well done stewy, very well done in that esteemed crowd. When in August and where? I would love to attend. But i am having a revision full knee replacement on 19th july fown at the gold coast private. Mihht not be able to dtand etc for a full day by then but would love to be there. Dare i enter something in the novice newby reo class ?😁😁

It's held in Ipswich on August 17 and 18. Would be good if you can make it mate as it's a really large model show and very very friendly. Lots of categories to enter in ... all entries are done online before the event too. Check out their website for all the details: qmhe.com

Thank you