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Not a bad recommendation, honestly, with the exception of the coolant passage bolts everything was in really good shape. Obviously, I did clean up all the head bolts and follow factory procedure oiling them before install. And I went over all critical bolts in the bottom end. I used plenty of Loctite where needed, and will definitely be using anti seize on the exhaust. I did wire wheel or thread chase anything that was a bit stubborn. Yes, I probably could’ve spent many more hours, cleaning things up and replacing hardware. It’s still kind of in my head that I should just start replacing any of the bolts that were loose. Because due to the amount of heat they could be compromised. Thanks for watching

@@FenrirFabrication Agree completely. I very often fall into the "where do I stop" when it comes to fixing something. Start with new bolts and end up with a whole new paint job kind of thing. Ugh, I just SO have snapped bolts though, either a quick snap or even worse when you know you're just twisting the head off. Have a great day fella, cheers!

I don’t believe the same part number will fit, but that machine definitely has steering dampers that very well could be worn out. Should be easy enough to pop them off and see if they have failed before buying anything.

Actually, I have a snatch block that I anchor to the headache rack of my flatbed so I can get a better pulling angle and not have to move the toolbox. I was thinking the same thing as you initially but it’s been working great. Using a snatch block to the main structure of my headache rack allows me to basically pull anything right up to the toolbox plus the extra pulling force from using the snatch block. Definitely worth doing considering the winch only cost me $10

@@FenrirFabrication giddyup. I keep a 12k harbor freight winch, 3 snatch blocks, 4-6 chains, 4-6 ratchet binders, 3.5 ton floor jack and several dozen ratchet straps in my trailer tool box. Very handy for loading and recovery

I have a 15,000 pound warn winch upfront, a cheap 13k winch in my toolbox on a carrier, numerous chains, binders, snatch blocks and straps in the truck toolbox. I actually intend to build a winch mount in between the rear frame rails above the receiver of my white truck since I have another warn 15k. I don’t keep a toolbox on my trailer since someone thought they needed my binders and chains more than I did, and I only found that out when I was picking up a bobcat out of state.. I rarely ever buy anything that works from the start winching/recovery and loading is just part of the life.

It’s always funny when you see a mouse fly out of the exhaust for something that was sitting. I didn’t even see this one until I was editing the full video.

Thanks for watching, sadly when they make a component that takes a ton of abuse out of plastic, you know it’s designed to fail…

Luckily, that happened at the bottom of the ramps, the deck was dragging the entire time on the left side. That definitely didn’t help things. Probably should’ve took the deck off, but it had no issues when loading so I didn’t think about it until it was already halfway down. Thanks for watching

Thanks for watching, It really seems like the only issue was the carburetor having a couple clogged passages plus a front deck adjuster being missing. A 20 minute fix was all it would’ve taken to get it back to work, but instead it was left to sit for over a year in the middle of a field in Illinois letting the mice move in…

The mice were a bonus. But in all seriousness around me it’s pretty easy to find riding mowers cheap or free, sadly they usually end up in the junkyard when they could easily be put back in service. Thanks for watching , I’ll definitely have small flipping projects every now and then on the channel, since the main projects end up costing thousands and get delayed on parts for extended periods of time.

Definitely makes getting projects faster

Thanks for watching, That was the first thing I looked at hoping it was a simple fix. When the arms are sat all the way down they have two guides on the chassis if you look at those, it’s really easy to tell how far off it is. The right side didn’t make contact with the guide until the left side pushed its way over. You can see the guides at the end of this video. That’s what I was filming looking down in front of the machine. I got it pretty close, but will be working on getting it the rest of the way back where it belongs soon enough.

Sadly, finding factory parts from a manufacturer that is no longer in business is easier said than done. Always got to figure out what can be used with these machines

Much appreciated, there really are not a lot of videos on these little machines. That’s one of the reasons why I’ve been putting out so many little projects related to mine hoping they could help people revive them. I don’t have discord but you can contact me through my instagram linked in my channel socials. I’m more than willing to answer any questions you might have.

This poor machine had a hard life for only 900 hours… it’s got a ton of life left now though. Was definitely worth the effort.

@FenrirFabrication nice motor swap BTW I watched that series. You're doing good work, keep it up!! I saved a Mustang 960 last year. Some thug stole my camera. Working on a Case 1845c now

Much appreciated, thanks for watching. Never intended to do so much to the little machine but things just kept popping up, you know how it goes. I’m sorry to hear that… lost a ton of footage myself of the big bobcat 7753 probably around 15 hours just gone.. funny thing is I’ve been eying a 1845c for my next project if I can work the deal out.

I thought about doing that actually, but it’s only a 2500 psi pump and the cylinders are 2 inches, with a little bit of math they are putting out about 7800 pounds of pushing force. That is significantly less than the amount of force I was putting on it. So I came up with a new game plan to get it the rest of the way back where it needs to be. The boom needs to come to the left and down 1/4 inch hence why at the end I was pulling on the boom at a higher position to try and get it to come down using the weight of my truck. Might look a little bit janky, but it worked surprisingly well by working at it slowly. Just need to work at it a little bit more but I ran out of time yesterday.

If you look at one of my previous videos where I started changing out the cylinders, it did have a 12 inch longer cylinder on one side….. I don’t think the boom itself is tweaked. I believe the actual mainframe is. Yeah, there are a lot of ways that I could’ve gone about this I will be securing the bottom frame of the machine, removing the cage and using a snatch block to get more force applied. As you mentioned in a previous comment, removing one cylinder and putting a solid bar there and using the hydraulics of the machine to do the adjusting would be great, but the machine has a 2500 psi pump and the cylinders are only 2 inches. 7800 pounds output of force is far less than what I just put on it

I hoped it might help somebody, most zero turns have steering dampers of some variety. A cheap and easy fix at home for most people with basic tools. Definitely worth checking if a zero turn has jerky steering before diving further in and spending a lot of money.

Aipico 109-2339 is the part number and manufacturer. You can find them on Amazon or eBay. As for if they will last, I cannot say they were cheap, but seem to be decent quality.

I bought it from a guy that worked at the scrapyard. Probably didn’t have too long left before getting crushed. Glad I could give it another decade of life. Thanks for watching

Much appreciated. I regret not making a channel sooner but I’ll keep working at it. Actually I’ve had a few people asking about that and plan to make an in depth video on it. I’ll be tearing it apart to paint in the next couple weeks since the lahman is now functional the m444 can get some attention. Thanks so much for the support, it really motivates me to keep pushing through the projects.

If that was the final time, the track bar was going in. I would definitely be using anti-seize. I’m going to be replacing the lower bolt and reinforcing the axle side track bar bracket. Along with welding the frame side double sheer bracket on.

Thanks for watching, honestly I’m not 100% sure on the manufacturer of that bumper. It looks pretty similar to a Smittybilt. When I bought the jeep, it had a spare tire shoved in the backseat. Didn’t have a tire carrier on the tailgate. So I looked everywhere for a cheap tire carrier bumper, and found that one on marketplace for 60 bucks off a rolled wrangler. Not really sure on the manufacturer, but it is pretty well built.

It definitely has come a long way. Just got a handful of things left to do to it before putting it to work. Sadly stuck waiting yet again for 1/4 npt to 3/8 jic fittings to go to the new cylinders… Thanks for watching

Thanks! Honestly, I’m kind of torn. I was planning on painting the wheels black to match the cab, lift cylinders and counterweight, but I think it does look good with white. I believe the original color to the wheels was almond white.

It’s painted now. Video is rendering then will be uploaded tonight.

That jeep is fighting me every step of the way. Quite an expensive bill you had there, but I’m glad it’s driving good now. This wrangler was cheap and that is definitely showing every time I have to work on it. Thanks for watching.

Sadly, the footage from me picking it up was lost due to a hard drive failure. Thanks to that happening. I now have several backups of all my footage and a different computer. It won’t be happening again. Thanks for watching.

Already got the valve springs on order from the dealer, when those show up the next video on this machine will be getting that engine running. Will probably be a quite a long video, but I don’t want to break the engine build up into more than two parts. Thanks for watching.

When I get around to putting new steering on the jeep, I’ll definitely be using some anti seize. Thread lock on the track bar for certain though. Hindsight is 20/20 would’ve been much quicker to just buy another chassis but sadly a rust free frame would’ve cost me double what I paid for the jeep. Thanks for watching.

Supreme Suspensions with relocation bracket. Seems solid but I haven’t drove the jeep enough to recommend it or not, since i’ve got to do more frame work.

I found it from the inside, that’s the downside of flush style plugs when they get mud in them and years of paint and grime. I am such an impatient person. I’m still waiting on half the Hydraulic fluid I ordered to show up, things are so slow these days. Thanks for watching.

I was really anticipating it needing a motor or serious work for the price. It’s been running good for the last week. After doing a little more digging it looks like it is a Honda GX 200 clone or similar to the predator 212 engine. Parts when needed will be very easy to find. Thanks for watching.

@@FenrirFabrication you are welcome those little motors are durable and rugged I got one on a 4 wheel vehicle I built that's almost 600 pounds thank you keep up the good work!

That was actually the plan until I found the drain plug from the inside. Turned out it was full of mud (square drive flush fitting plug) and one of the previous owners painted over it. Definitely would’ve never found that without getting inside to clean. The next video on this machine is in the works, just have to wait until it is warm enough to paint. Thanks for watching.

Those videos are definitely more fun to make. I will most certainly keep making them. Thanks for watching.

To be honest for the price, I expected it to probably need a motor since that’s a pretty common issue due to the massive amounts of vibration. I have a Honda I was prepared to swap in during this video but apparently the little compactor just wants to keep going. Definitely worth keeping around, though it did try to make me deaf when it started vibrating on my flatbed. Thanks for watching.

Definitely one of my favorite sounding engines for sure. Glad to have it back on the road. I’m happy the seller was honest about that axle. Massive upgrade to a Dana 70 with a spool in it. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for that information, hopefully it can help someone else out, drain was found. Turned out the plug had mud in it and paint over it. Found it cleaning out the belly.

It’s been a great truck to me, some stuff makes zero sense though. Like the factory ball joints were welded into the lower control arms, But even with over 500k miles I would still feel comfortable, hopping in it and driving it across the country. Thanks very much for watching.

It’s definitely not my favorite thing to do. But it has to be done. Thank you for watching.

@FenrirFabrication definitely a necessary evil.

Much appreciated, I wanted to be painting it yesterday, but taking care of the hydraulics Has to come first. Not to worry though it will be sanded down and primed/painted within the next couple videos. Thank you very much for watching.

Definitely do it, pretty straightforward to do it the way I did. Good machines, definitely worth keeping around. I’d happily go with any vanguard over 20hp. Even the 18hp I’m running does perfectly fine, never stalled it out, though it does bog down turning on dry concrete.

@@FenrirFabrication thank you for putting your videos out and for the encouragement!

Much appreciated, the little machine has come a long way. The effort has definitely been worth it. I was so nervous that it wouldn’t move, no history is the downside of buying something from a salvage yard. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. That’s going to be a fun video to make for sure. Just going to have to wait until it is a little bit warmer, Likely next week based on the weather forecast. The next video on this machine will be me opening up the chain case/hydraulic reservoir to adjust the creeping issue and drain the oil/ do filters. Also checking the sprockets and chains, I want my new cylinders to last.

Thanks, it’s been a lot of work, but from the scrapyard to where it is now has been well worth the effort. Thanks for watching.

Thank you, I can’t believe I missed that. You’re right, that small motor was rotating the pumps the wrong way. Luckily, it wasn’t run like that. The small motor can be run on 120 or 240. I’ve been running it off 240 just because of the amperage draw. I flipped it around to 120 for this video so I could show the issue. Didn’t realize I wired it with the wrong rotation until you pointed it out. Thanks again.

Honestly, not sure yet, I haven’t pulled that second machine apart. Probably gonna be a little while until I can get to that one. From the limited diagnosis I’ve done, I will be needing the polarity switch for certain and a set of brushes/fuel pump. I’ve got to do head gaskets/studs and a water pump on my Duramax that’s kind of up there on my priority list for now.

I will add it to the list of things to get done. Though I will likely fix the other machine and sell it first.

I actually anticipated this machine to have some serious problems. My original intention was to use the motor for the Lahman mini skid steer. But after I got it running, everything just worked flawlessly. They are quite good machines.

Thanks, it’s come a long way from the scrapyard to where it is now. Still a ton to do but hopefully it can be ready to prep for paint within the month. Thanks for watching, take care