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08 Avalanche: I was showing low pressure and throwing a check engine light...actually had the MIL start flashing and telling me to pull over. Figured out pretty quickly I was not low on oil and that I had oil pressure, so suspected the sensor. Hooked up my scanner which showed low voltage on the oil pressure sensor. Picked up a Dorman replacement and watched this and another video. Decided to tackle it. Reaching back behind the manifold I quickly found the sensor which is mounted vertically. I used my inspection endoscope to see it better - this was going to be easy....took others' advice and hightailed it to the local O'Reilly and picked up the 1-1/16" deep socket (made sure to get the one that said "oil pressure switch socket" (Lyle 13250)....Back to the Avalanche.....Luckily I already had the extensions and a couple swivel socket adapters - so I connected them and went to pull the sensor....Note: I removed nothing from the engine except the plastic cover to give me a little more room (not sure I needed to)...then the problems began - I had no problem removing the electrical connector (just a small gray latch you gently pull out and upwards and it came right out), and no problem getting the socket on the sensor (put the socket on by itself first - then the socket ratchet, extensions, etc), BUT trying different ratchets, extensions, one or two swivel extensions, and contorting myself every way I could, I could not get the sensor to budge (couldn't get enough torque to break it loose). I remembered one other RUclipsr mentioning they can be hard to get off if on the car a long time, and so I struggled with this, beating up the knuckles for over an hour. On a frustration break...I remembered yet another RUclipsr mentioning he used a flex-head ratchet.... I thought that might work. So, off I went to HF to buy one.....They had several -- but I noticed they had one that is double-jointed (called a Dual Flex Ratchet - and is low profile) ...that looked to be the ticket. Back to the Avalanche. Put the socket on first, then the ratchet -- bent the first joint to 90 degrees horizontal, the second to 90 degrees vertical and the sensor came out easily. What had taken a couple of hours or more (including running to the stores), took 5 minutes. Lesson: get the right tools. I spent another 25 minutes trying to get the screen out....which I was never able to do (using my endoscope, I could not even see one...and finally figured it had not been put in (some posters say not to put it in). Try as I might to get a new one in, I could not get it to seat and after another frustrating 20 minutes or so, finally decided to go without it. Put the new sensor in and the oil pressure indicator came up to about 35 and all was good. ONE LAST NOTE: I don't know if this makes any difference, but I installed the delete kit on my Avalanche (all 8 cyl.-all the time - LOVE IT!), but I don't think that should change anything. GOOD LUCK-GET THE RIGHT TOOLS AND IT IS EASY PEASY....

That filter stopping up is usually the problem not the sensor… but in my case I’ve got two wires shorted together so I’ve gotta run new wires from pcm to the connector and replace the sensor and filter while I’m there but without taking the intake manifold off

Nice, Thinking of doing the same exact setup to my tahoe. What size were the pipes that you bought?

This is for AWD?

Thanks Brah!

You can also remove transmission mount bolts. And jack up trans a little it will give you access directly to it.

To answer wy so when your motor Mount breaks oil sender hits firewall and you have to replace it These guys went to college (for what that's worth )so when u replace your motormount you can lower the motor for a little bit of room

To answer wy so when your motor Mount breaks oil sender hits firewall and you have to replace it These guys went to college (for what that's worth

Thanks brother man you helped a lot

Ive done this twice on my 5.3 and will be doing it again. Always in winter it seems and yesterday was -46. Always watch vids to refresh. I suggest watching a vid of a guy who removes intake. It shows exactly where the thing is and gives some valuable perspective to those of us who go blind.

Don’t you have to calibrate the new ones regardless? Someone told me you needed a special chingadera to calibrate 😅

Good video bro

Actual best video I've seen of somone finally doing this job with no cuts

Did you use any Anti-seize on the threads or did IT have some kind of goop on there

Great video bro hella thorough I got through the right side like nothing

What are those rear calipers called? Thanks!

thanks - you made it look not so hard and doable

Thank you Sir I need this video God Bless !

I changed mine but didn’t work why?

I like the videos I would like the results how it works after putting a new oil pressure sensor in

Thnk you for being the best showing the hardest plug. Most videos don't show it the right way. Subscribed because you put in a great effort to show us all. Great Job. 😊😊

THANK YOU!❤

It looks like the 1st thing you did was a big line of coco

Went to my mechanic..he told me $350..went to another they told me between 350-450....but he do it for my for 250..if it wasn't for this rain and me having to attend a funeral tomorrow I had definitely save me money

Why did you go with a factory control arm or in other words not install the adjustable ball joint?

I don't see any need to disconnect the battery for this install. Fewer potential issues to deal with if you don't disconnect it, IMO. Newer cars can be touchy about losing battery power. I hook up a jumper box if I'm changing the battery so the computer doesn't lose power. Thanks for showing the part numbers for the breather filter and cap! Did your engine cover fit over the breather filter OK? Do you get any residue on the motor from the breather filter? Great video!

I had the same air intake tube misalignment at the airbox. Lined it up best it would go and tightened it down. My car is a GS350 F Sport. I'm thinking AFE could have done a better job with the intake tube design. It works but it's not perfect.

Wt a stupid design, an a dumb place to put it,another reason they dont want you to work on it,,looks like a pain in the Ass,good video though an thanks,now i know wt im getting into,wish me luck lol

Great video! Thanks

Hey man, thanks for your video, helped me out alot today changing over my rotors.

Thank you for being patient while you are doing it. Nice explaination.

Sooooo helpful!!! Thank you for the detailed step by step

I gave you a thumbs up, but there are two things that at least need to be addressed that are missing and/or incorrect. First thing, spray at the beginning the calipers with brake cleaner, and as you go along taking them apart. Have some cardboards under them to absorb the dirty asbestos that is going to drip down to the floor. The second thing, remove the brake reservoir cap, gave rags around it for any over spill. When pushing in the pistons, pressure will make the oil go back to the reservoir, and not as he says, by placing a C-clamp to prevent the other piston from going out. He is lucky no damage occur from a blown seal, line, etc. Just remove that cap, no need to clamp the other piston. And a fan, lot of ventilation, try not to breathe any of that dust, not healthy at all. Besides the above, it is a good video, I followed it to change mine. I also did the rears, recommend taking pictures as you go, the rears have these clips that if you don't pay attention, will be tricky to mount them back.

97-06 LS motor can be done with intake on, if you use a universal socket and extensions and small hands. But the Gen IV motor is ridiculous. I worked at a Chevy dealer 5 years, so removing the intake manifold is not scary for me. Much easier to just remove the intake manifold. You need a tool to remove the quick connect fuel line. The only real trick is completely removing the intake bolts. One is hard to see. The intake easily lifts up with the bolts out. But if the bolts stay in, getting it out from under the cowl is rough, due to the tight clearance. Then, the oil sending unit is super easy to remove, and so is the screen, with a curvy pick.

Thanks for the video 👍

great video, thanks!

Thankyou bro

Hey MdzAutomotive - thanks for the excellent and timely video! I'm doing the very same thing tomorrow, so this gives me more confidence. Excellent video quality, showing all the necessary details close up with great lighting. Also appreciate your calm and thorough explanations ... easy to follow!! Two thumbs up!! Did you have to do anything special with adjusting the emergency brake pads? Thanks!

I really like you video good explanation thank you so much

You nailed tht problem with your smarts and your intuition man.Good on you.

Thank you

Thanks for being so thorough!

Thanks a bunch for your video. It was a lot of help. I was able to get mine done only removing the solenoid line. I used a sensor socket,swivel,a long extension with a socket wrench and a little help from a finger ratchet to hand tighten the sensor after I got it on. And for removing the filter I used a wood screw that I had laying around and it worked perfectly I had no issues getting that filter out. Thanks again

От души тебе, мужик !

U of the Best outstanding 👏

Brother thats a total wast of money, the 3UR-FE is port injected and the flow of fuel over the valves keeps everything clean, and as a result of that a catch can isn't really beneficial unless you environmentally worried about burning that oil. Every year we see completely stock 3UR-FE engines roll over 1 million miles without a catch can.

If you have a lot of miles do it the long way so you can change out the intake gaskets and valley pan gasket. It kills a bunch of jobs doing it the long way.

THATS THE POINT 😂

dude great vid you’re the goat

really good vid. schowing everything without a bunch of crappy music the way it should be. step-by-srep. they wanted $10 more for screen. I'm original owner 250,000 so know ioil changed as should. the socket $13 bucks. as you showed they're not that tight and install is only 15 ft.lbs. thanks for showing how to unhook holes for more room oh yeah has always and still does idle at 40 psi. 4.8l cast iron blocks are really great motors.