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Thanks Steve, I need to get back to it, I’ve not touched the mg for at least a year.

@@OoOJakeOoO send me a picture of the area

@@steviecuz2396 can you send images via RUclips?

Only when it’s warm, is this a common problem? I’d love to know what causes it, do you know?

Thank you kind sir, it’s always nice when you find that your work has helped others, progress has been slow over here with the weather and other things keeping me busy, hope to get back to it soon, good luck with your rebuild. Regards, Steve.

All sorts, but usually 1.6 mm(16 swg) a nice plasma cutter comes in handy( Lidl do one for about £150) worth the money!

It’s nice to know I’m helping people, good luck with your restoration, I’m about seven years into mine and the way I work it’ll be another seven! But it’s a hobby and gives me something to do when I’ve got nothing to do 🤨

I’ve never had a new car and don’t expect used cars to be without faults so I’ve repaired faults all my driving life, it’s part of the game so live with it and enjoy the learning process and if you can pass on what you’ve learned, good luck Steve…….

If you read the comments on this post you see I’ve addressed this problem before, so you’ve got three choices, buy another radio, buy a replacement screen or live with it? There is of course another option get another car, which I have done, see my videos on the Evoque.

Thanks Mike, I try to return the favour of all who have helped me with their videos on MGB restoring.

Yes! I have a maxim I believe in ( if it works don’t fix it ) and if it goes in the future I’ll fix it then, if you can weld get a MIG welder and if you can’t weld buy one and and learn, MIG welding is the easiest and will save you thousands over the years ( I’m sure my cat could mig weld if I bothered to teach him) or take it to an exhaust garage and tell them exactly what you want them to do, someone on the internet said Land Rover wanted £2500 to replace the whole DPF box, good luck.

Yep Land Rover just quoted me £2,200, going to get a local garage to weld it back on. Can you recall the size of the new bolts Stevie? Cheers Bob

The 4 small brackets that break off the body of the exhaust box are 10 mm, encapsulated nuts, I re tapped mine and then welded them back on

@@steviecuz2396 cheers for that, getting the shield bashed back into shape, then getting welded back on, and two large jubilee clips so it doesnt fall off again!!!

Thanks Jim, still loads to do!

Your the only one to mention it, it’s probably hiding in the other wing.

It won’t fit in my sandblasting box and this way cost nothing, plus I think it would be difficult to get inside with a blaster, turned out ok in the end?

@@steviecuz2396 ok I was just wondering if buying one of those portable ones would be worth it. But then I would have to get a hood and a respirator or something.

@@jerryp2433 I made my own small parts sand blaster which keeps all the silica dust ( which is highly toxic, this is why they’ve stopped using it in shot blasting and use grit instead ) inside the box, there are lots of RUclips videos how to make one and doesn’t cost the earth.

Hi, just out off peer curiosity does these function you talk about does it actually work?

Slow but steady my friend.

Thanks Maggie, I don’t really keep a check on the job times, just do a bit when I feel in the mood for getting my hands dirty, the wire wheel is a 100mm medium one flexible enough to pop through the awkward opening at the entrance of the crossmember welded onto a steel curtain rod about 10mm diameter 50cm long, the bent brush was ideal for painting the inside just fiddly but it’s done now, I do the videos partly to help others and to help me remember how it all goes back together and as a record for if and when I sell the MGB, good luck with yours, more doing and less contemplating?

Thanks Ted, won’t have to do that again for a while, what’s the saying? If it’s worth doing….

Don’t know, moss-Europe do kits for each year.

Hi Phil, I’ve not got that far yet but nearly, I’ve seen sets of what’s called sway bar poly bushes and there are drop link bushes in the kit on Amazon, there are two sizes of anti roll bar so pick the one you want, I haven’t looked on moss Europe’s website but I’m sure they’ll have something to suit.

I’ve just looked on moss-europe.co.uk and found what you a want for about £1.90. Find your nearest branch and they will post them.

Part No, AHH5939 item No 10 on the front suspension blowup.

Thanks Luc, hard work has its own rewards, I need to get back at it, I haven’t touched the car since December.

A second hand radio might have the same problem only to be discovered when the car is warm? A new screen is the obvious answer and fitting it is a simple job for a competent D.I.Y.er but with the chip crisis in china they are expensive.

I’m at a difficult point, wanting to change my car this year but don’t want to spend anymore on this one

Not sure which bit you mean? In further videos I’ve renewed the upright edge but the underside edge seems ok on mine, I’ll have a better look when I take the heater box out, it’s a hidden area and I’m sure it holds many surprises,

Video 15 and video 20 show this lip being repaired.

@@steviecuz2396 oh ok. I see now. Thanks! I have to do the same thing I guess. What are you using to grind those welds down in that narrow piece?

I used a grinding disc, there like a cutting disc but 1/4” thick with the angle grinder vertical onto the weld

@@steviecuz2396 I guess I better get to it. I still have to remove the windscreen, wing, dashboard, gas tank, bonnet, floor boards, etc. 😢

Unfortunately not, I got a bag of ice and the screen came back to life but I think it’s too far gone, I’m going to have to bite the bullet and buy a screen, they look easy enough to fit but since the Chinese chip shortage the price has gone crazy, it might be easier to get a second hand radio but will it have the same problem?…

@@steviecuz2396 have you tried taking the screen off and putting it in the freezer for a few days? Also, you can heatsink it by adding a thin copper plate between the screen to take the heat off.

I was contemplating taking the screen out and re soldering all the components. It’s simple enough to get at.

@@steviecuz2396 I have same issue but my lcd fading is worse than your one. I've bought a second older cd73 2005. I will be transferring the screen over and will try to fix the problematic screen. The screen is not soldered on, it's actually two ribbons. U just need to disconnect that but it's isn't the connection that is the problem. It's just the quality of the liquid or some sort of mechanism in the lcd that moves the liquid around. I'll try putting it in the freezer lol

I’ve come across a further problem, with drilling the holes in the vent the hot air in the winter is now forested onto the radio so it blanks out even on cold days! Honestly you couldn’t write it!

I was planning to plug it with polyurethane sealer, if I get access to remove it when the wing is fitted to re-Waxoyl the sill again in a year or two, we’ll see later.

They are Tex screws that have a hexagon head and fit into a magnetic driver (see episode 12) and are very easy to fit and remove, yes they do leave a small hole but you are there with your welder so it’s no biggie to fill a few more holes and for me it was very important to close all the gaps to enable easier welding of the full underside, you can’t really rely on weights to do this efficiently. Good luck!

Yeh! Take it apart, clean it, paint it and rebuild. What I was born for!

Thanks AP, I too have done both sides, check out my episode 20, it’s hard work isn’t it!

Glad to hear I’ve been of assistance, lots of cleaning, I have a small shot blast handheld gun so I’ll try it on the shocks and callipers, maybe the crossmember, getting colder here in Liverpool but plodding on.

I was just watching your brake calliper video, that Waxoyl is pretty thick so I think it will push most liquids through it, I think the nozzle is a bit blocked I’ll look at it, I have still the crossmember to do and then on to the brakes.

@Stevie Cuz cool let me know if you can it may be something I will get a hold of and throw some transmission fluid in it. For the caliper video if you rebuild them the seals have different sides, so watch how the old ones come out. Not sure if I mentioned it in that video.

I have a small electric oil pump (£19 Amazon) that I refilled my BMW auto transmission oil with, easy and cheaper than £34 for the waxoyl pump.

@@steviecuz2396Looking to put bar chain oil like what Mustie1 does to his vehicles. I need to do that to the Galaxies.

Try getting it hot first?

Fix anything with a good knocking stick.

Thanks Simon, I’m an (old fashioned) time served fabricator/welder and have always had a curiosity of how things work and will attempt to repair anything, messed a lot of stuff up but learned along the way, always fixed my own cars, even sprayed a few with varying results, every days a school day!

Thanks Ted, next video shows everything else mounted to the crossmember removed plus the crossmember itself, now lots of cleaning and painting!

Thanks Muttley, no, I didn’t notice it till I cleared stuff up, I found two on the floor, I’ll put them back when I refit the rack, we’ll spotted!

I’ll see how she drives and decide what to do with the gearbox (overdrive, Mazda, ) or leave it?

@@steviecuz2396 I'm taking the same approach. Need to see what my engine and gearbox are like one it's on the road. I'm convinced my overdrive won't work! I really fancy an mx5 gearbox but that makes me think I should just fit an Mazda engine as well.

@@stuwhite2337 Ford Sierra 5 speed boxes were popular and cheap at one time. Better ratios too. I've sorted out the electrics on mine whilst it was out on the floor, open circuit 3rd/top lockout switch which I've changed. All else looks ok. Time will tell. Keep up the good work Stevie, its looking good, a credit to you. Good luck.

I feel your pain!

@@steviecuz2396 I modified my gearbox mount to make it a lot easier to fit.

I’m of a mind to keep it the same colour as the original paint, mineral blue, I used to think it was a bit drab but I’ve seen some nice examples and it saves the paperwork for changing the colour at the DVLA Swansea (Wales) where all of GB vehicle records are kept, I’m in a good place at the moment and am ploughing through the work, hope to get the front crossmember refurbished and back on the car before it gets too cold here, hope you and yours are keeping well, Steve…