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Keeps making me laugh. The Disney one isnt voice activated. Lol. But funny hearing you shout at it.

Just take out the sensors. They'll drive anyone nuts. I've heard there is a way to install it so you only need to hold the Start button for several seconds to bring up the menu.

I concur with other comments, 40/80 tracks was the density of concentric tracks of data on the disk. I've got a couple of shorts videos up now about my Beeb(s). I'll check out your other vids.

Oh no! maybe I should have made it clear on how to install a VA0 or VA1 ribbon!! Also in my video I wired the start cable to the wrong side of the resistor. It needs to go on the right side. :) you did well to rectify cutting the wrong wire though :)

I had to replace the battery tabs on a DMG gameboy and it was a struggle getting the board in a position to get leverage on the contacts to get them out, as just heating them with the soldering iron would not get them out and I was worried about getting burned by pulling on them with my fingers while heating them with the iron. Did get it done though and replaced them with some zinc plated contacts from kitsch-bent. Next order of business will be replacing the screen with a backlit option and replacing the speaker for something more powerful.

👋 where did you get the Benn venn from?

Working with electronics like this is a skill I'd like to acquire, but seeing how finicky it can be I'm not sure I have the patience for it!

Good job, I have been procrastinating my repairs on my two gameboys and would like to see your sega repair so I can dig out mine in the future 😢

I saw the amoeba on that screen 😅

I am sure the vertical stripes are an adhesive contact issue. The Game Boy sometimes has this issue over time where the adhesive part comes undone after years. The ghosted image? seems like video input to the LCD signal from elsewhere.

Kapton tape and more flux my friend. You would have had a much easier time getting that ribbon cable soldered. A little tip I learned from a friend. The struggle is real with those ribbon cables.

Love your chill repairs.

For corrosion from batteries, use white vinegar, not IPA

The lines can be fixed its similar to the gameboy dmg issue. You have to go over the flex cable with a soldering iron. As for the citcles not sure but give that a try and update us

Nice! I've not had a 1980s board. Looks weird without the big ground circle

That cute toothbrush has to be the centerpoint of all your equipment! I love it ❤🙃

I can smell that sound board from here!😅

Let's get the zooming in thing😂

Hmmmm 🤔 it seems to me if the sensor dies you are basically screwed 😢😮😢

I think the fpc part that flips over had a pad in the corner that connects to on of the first pads. Those pads are probably mechanical since the number 1 starts like 5 pads in. I would have marked the edge of the PCB at pin 9 and 20 (or whatever they were) with a sharpie. Tack the corner pad down to hold the ribbon where it folds. a little piece of kapton on the right side then soldered the 2 pins....that would have been a lot easier.

When the joints are being stubborn add more solder and re wick again. Try using 60/40 for desoldering incase if you are using 63/37. It gives you more wiggle room before it solidifies. All else fails you should look into low melt solder 42/58 tin bismuth mix or ones that contain a little silver. It definitely helps.

If one cap has corrosion under it its probably starting to leak. And the others are the same age so it will happen to them eventually also. You should probably just do a re cap to be safe... Im waiting to see your next update video on this. Its fun stuff.

Thanks for the how to. I found the rhs ribbon quite tricky to solder on this two chip.

cool new project for a screen update :)

Tape man, learn to use some tape to help you hold down the flex cable.

I'd suggest getting a circular polarizer filter for the camera. You can rotate it to remove a lot of those reflections.

Wow that looks absolutely outstanding just how I remember games looking.

Happy Saturday morning all 🫡

i think your issue is still those batteries are d3ad, 1.4 is quite low for how power hog the game gear is.

burns happen sometimes when uses brutal force to remove those caps :P

Hi, hot air is the best way to remove caps on a Game Gear, it also removes the glue from the original capacitors. You can clear a board in minutes with no damaged traces. Clean up with a regular iron and wick. Add the new caps the same way. The solder drags them to where they need to be and the result looks factory fitted.

I am impressed with Retrosix's solution. I think for the edge connector where you were strugling I think double sided tape to hold it down may help.

Hi yes leaky SMD caps are a pain. Adrian Black used to do your wiggle method but he has updated his method by pressing down and twisting the caps now. Just one other thing your audio is a lot quieter than others, I changed the YT slider from midway to full for this vid. Keep them coming.

Ohh sorry I thought i got rid of that !

Nice vid, just one hint on mechanical items when rebuilding don't tighten any of the screws until all are fitted and not cross threaded this will allow flexing of the two parts to aid alignment.

Nice vid, I always believed the problem was flux fumes rather than lead. I had loud music at 17:30 over your voice and it stopped when I pause the video.

If you look at the key switches they are pushed through the metal chassis and have flanges to stop them going through the plate, they then soldered in the PCB so desoldering is the only option. Just like the composite video BNC you removed in the 1st video, if the nut was on the inside then it has to go out through the rear.

I have this issue but it seemed to be connection issue with the cable from main board to power board fixed that and it ran for about 20 minutes then shut off. Light comes on split second when turning on now. My guess is issue with power board so I ordered replacement and will try it.

This repair will always be a real special series to me I love that you saved this mate 🤜

Those cables are poor design the wires just sit in the barrels and touch and they can get loose and have bad connection. I fixed one and it worked about 25 minutes then shut off and now it turns off as soon as you turn it on. Has all new caps no idea what issue is. A failed power board or caps? I cant test voltages because i removed the legs on the power board and installed wires because the oem wires had loose connections on both sides.

Ryu all time

So jumper J1 deactivates the TMSS when bridged? That's unique I've never seen this before. Then again I never owned a game gear but I'm looking forward to buying a broken one soon to recap and fully pimp out.

Chri, you are a saint as well as a saviour. Dude done good.

Nice job man!

I used to like Blanka (I think that was his name. The green hulk looking dude with ?orange hair).

Like and subbed bud thanks for fixing this beast for me 😊 great vid and best of luck with ya channel I gave up on mine bout 4 years ago dude 😅 but I'll deffo check out some more of ya work and look for future uploads all the best 🔥👊🔥

awesome, nice work man

Nice Video ! Sub & Like ! And Love Retro Sega Gamegear !

Thank You for clarification of a dead screen. I own same symptom Gamegear and I thought the screen could have contacts reflowed. Now I realize the screen needs to be replaced!