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Thanks! Don’t worry, the poly board is just for testing the edge to see if it holds up. I have and Asahi board I usually use and a Hasegawa too.

@@runoto heard that. Those things just give me hives 🤣

@@aussiehardwood6196 Sugimoto states the steel is “Pure Japanese Ore”, but it’s widely believed to be white #2. Gets very sharp very easily.

Cut a lot of onions and wash your knife under very hot water after each half of an onion. It will form a very stable patina and stop discoloring onions in the future. Or polish the cladding on stones to a high polish, it will be less reactive. Or if you don’t feel comfortable polishing on the stones, get some micromesh or 0000 steel wool and some Flitz/metal polish and some mud from a high grit stone. Put the mud and metal polish on the micromesh or 0000 steel wool and use that to polish the iron cladding. It will make it less reactive. Best way is to do one of the polishing methods and then do the cut onions/hot water method to get a nice patina and prevent discoloration.

I did a wide bevel sharpening so it’s a little thinner than it was originally, then put my own edge on it.

I thin most of my knives, then use them to see how well they hold up. If they chip, they’re too thin and I sharpen out the chips. If they don’t cut well enough, I thin them more.

@@runoto Thanks. Usually I also do just that. Recently I tried moderate impact on cutting board to save time on testing. So far the best edge I got was 5 degree edge with double microbevel at 10 and 15 degrees. It passed the impact test but I'm not hitting anything thinner than that on a cutting board. I'm quite surprised with the results, specially considering it's a 54 HRC knife. I still wanna try an edge that defects on finger nail but was too scared to mess up the knife. Just bought one from a knifemaker friend of mine on 52100 and 62-63 HRC to try that.

From a pretty recent batch. I like it, not too triangular/pointy.

It’s for a passaround so I sent it on to the next person already, but it was a really good knife. Smooth cuts, great food release and a thicker spine to give it some weight while still being very thin behind the edge. I don’t use S-grinds a lot, but this was a really well done one.

Hi, I thinned the Munetoshi on waterstones. Sorry, I don’t really have any measurements, I just raised the shinogi, tested the knife and raised it again until it didn’t wedge much or crack carrots anymore. I might have taken off about 6-7 grams total.

Wow seems like you did a great job! Well done! I know the knives and that has 100% made a massive difference…are you on kkf?

What stones did you use? You could try moving the shinogi up more.

If you haven’t already, you can try this to round the spine and the choil to make them more comfortable to hold ruclips.net/video/E2YSkv2bS9E/видео.htmlsi=K6bramd5ifrBo8nQ

@@runoto yep !

Thanks, it’s like knife ASMR

After testing, it needs a little more work, but I’ll try to get a cutting video when I’m done!

Konosuke is over 100 grams lighter, much more user friendly. But hard to get, they don’t really make them anymore. Mizuno is more of a chopper (vegetables, not bones). If you can use a cleaver over 600 grams, Mizuno is very good, but I don’t recommend it as a normal daily use vegetable cleaver unless you’re doing high volume prep like in a restaurant kitchen.

@@runoto thanks man ! Im very familiar with cleavers ,and got plug fo both. This helped alot , keep doing these nice ass vids👌

This one is really old from a restaurant supply store in San Francisco, you can buy the CCK 1103 large slicer online, it’s pretty similar.

Mizuno is very heavy, over 600 grams if you’re ok with that. Sugimotos are good, very popular at professional Chinese restaurants in Japan, but can have a bit too much curve in the profile for some people. Are you looking for a full size cleaver? What kind of steel do you prefer?

@@runoto yes looking for a full size (220x110 I believe) but ok with something a little smaller too. Carbon is the only steel choice for me although stainless cladding over carbon core works too. What would you consider best? Heavy is ok if the grind is thin.

These are pretty good, I have one. Forged by Yoshikazu Tanaka. Flatter profile. miuraknives.com/japanese-knife/1592-chinese-cleaver-sakai-kikumori-gokujo-serie-size-22cm-ka1592-japanese-knife-sakai-kikumori.html Different retailer but with better pictures: strataportland.com/products/sakai-kikumori-tanaka-gokujyo-white-2-chinese-cleaver-western-rosewood-handle There are some Sugimoto on Amazon too that are a good deal: Sugimoto ASG14 Chinese Knife, No. 6, Hagane (High Carbon Steel), Interrupt Type, Japan a.co/d/7LeGnpX Under $300 is good for Sugimoto I think.

It’s the same as the Mizuno #6, just labeled differently by the retailer I purchased from. Thinning is not mandatory, cuts pretty well out of the box, I just like to push it a little thinner for extra performance.

In terms of pure performance, I would recommend Toyama. This Morihei has hard shoulders while the Toyama has a right biased convex grind, cuts smoother.

I’m looking to buy a japanese gyuto, Toyama caught my attention, is there anything i should start looking at in that price range or maybe a bit higher?

@@thexaaka4192 Toyama is very good, although only the stainless clad is readily available now. If you want something in a higher price range, you could just get something from a custom maker at that point. This is a good read: www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/toyama-question.66454/

Compared to small CCK 1303, the small Sugimoto is a little shorter, but is about the same weight. It feels more substantial while the CCK is thinner in the midsection, both are pretty thin behind the edge. Assuming both are sharpened the same way, Sugimoto should have better edge retention, but both knives are pretty easy to sharpen.

@@runoto Thanks Kevin!

Sorry for the late reply, it’s a great all around knife. Not the thinnest, but not thick. Good food release and moves through dense product well. Steel is phenomenal, it’s A2 steel that retains its bite very well, always sharp enough for tomatoes. And Sheehan is a great guy to work with.

ruclips.net/user/shortsMetKMQBdv7g?feature=share ruclips.net/video/5Pz3WmzcYOI/видео.html Here are some videos of mine. I like it a lot. The smaller size is not really a problem unless you’re cutting really big vegetables or something. Holds an edge well and easy to sharpen.

Shihan Banded A2 Monosteel Gyuto 240mm x 58mm 265 grams Spine is a little less than 4mm out of the handle tapers only slightly until it thins out at the tip, sorry I don’t have exact measurements.

Maybe about 3 hours total. Most of the work on 220 grit stone and then some time to get rid of super deep scratches on higher grit stones. Most of the work is done on the right side since the left side is close to flat. Food release gets much better once you get patina on the whole knife.

@@runoto I understand. It's difficult to judge from a video, but it looks like you thinned about a cm or so up on the right side, or did you go further up? Did you do a gradual convex, or mainly flat with a bit of rounding off the transition/line into the blade face? I'm in the process of doing something similar on a couple of knives, but I'm having some troubles achieving the food release aspect.

⁠@@halfdanathe right side of the Masahiro is already pretty convex, I just follow that going up maybe 1/3 of the knife. So I guess it’s very slight convex near the edge, then more noticeable convex above that. Too convex near the edge gets you wedging and poor cutting feeling. Food release is always hard to get right on these things. Also cutting speed plays a role, really fast cutting usually equals better food release.