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Sounds like an immobilizer problem. Is the battery good in your key?

@@howtopete33 hey mate thanks for replying I havent thought about that being the problem.when i bought the vz the key was working then a day later after getting home from buying the vz ute the car wouldn't start so installed a push start button straight into the relay i just had to turn the key for power to push the button but now that wont work. maybe your onto the key immobilzer.

@@howtopete33 last time i was driving, the car would lock and unlock with my key when i pressed it.

Hi, you are 100% correct. Except it’s inside the ECU that this wire breaks or unsolders. There’s a guy in New Zealand that repairs one on video. Thank you so much for your advice and your support. I am going to change the ECU and if that doesn’t fix it I guess it will be going where the last owner was sending it to….😂

Arr bugger, just out of general interest how much is this guna cost au-nz-au to repair?

Young people have a lot of screws missing….

Yeah, Commodores are not my strong suit I just felt that if we don’t save them they will be lost forever…. Thanks for your input and support…

Thank You very much!!!👍🏻

I’m supposed to be picking one up today. Will post a video if successful. But thank you for the offer if I still need it I’ll let you know.

@@howtopete33 to easy got whole loom in vz storm.

Thanks a lot for your advice however I’ve exhausted all avenues and it’s the ECU that needs replacing. Should be happening soon as I’ve gotten a donor vehicle just need a nice day. Thank you for your support….

Please do and thank you for your support!…

@@howtopete33 worked a treat mate thanks again

Hi Flynn I googled it and this is what I came up with… www.scribd.com/document/692565147/Isuzu-n-Series-Workshop-Manual

My pleasure it’s comments like yours that give me the incentive to make more videos…. Thank you for your kind words and your support….

Very hard to say without actually seeing it….

No the ECU has failed and needs to be replaced. Thanks for your support…

My pleasure Jimbo!!! Thank you for your support!!!!

You are most welcome!!! Thank you for your support!!!

I’m still on the hunt for an ECU as injectronics want $960 for one and I think that’s highway robbery…. Hopefully I sort it sooner than later… Thanks for your interest and support!!!

My pleasure, thank you for your support….

I spoje to them and as I’ve already replaced the pim with a brand new one injetronics can sell me a ECU for $960 which I think is extortion. How much did you pay? Thanks for the suggestion and your support…..

Was a grand to get fixed in December but the car has been good for 300000 so far 🙏

My pleasure…. I’m not aware of an inertia switch in the Holden stable sorry… Thank You for the support….

I don’t know you may well be right. I just haven’t seen that with any other make or model… Thanks a lot for your support and input!!!👍🏻

@@howtopete33 next time you're at the ute just try it. Let the key go straight away and the starter will shut off either when the engine fires or when it times out. As for VZ's, my issue is no reverse lights. I have a replacement PIM just haven't got around to changeing yet, I do have a Vident scantool like yours but I didn't know it could tie in the new PIM. Your video on that subject was of great interest thanks.

Owned a vz crewman exec for 2 years first car guarantee you turn the key and let go if it’s the correct vz series it will self start starter stayed cranking in previous video due to auto start trying to work

That depends on how long is a piece of string….

Pretty good and you?

@@howtopete33 Ecu sorted?

The only one that I know is injectronics and they want $960 I think that’s a ripoff and a half….

I was under the impression that Australian ECU repairs only did Mercedes and I’ve never heard of in tune but I will contact both. Thanks again for your help and support…

@@howtopete33 In tune" in Qld.

Thanks for the advice but that won’t fix the ECU.

Sorry dude I just don’t understand what you are trying to say in this message….

@@howtopete33 Batteries that offer higher output on turning over.

@@howtopete33 did you get another ecu yet.

Than You for the support!!🍻

No. If your key battery dies unless you can unsolder the old battery and re solder a new one. You will need a new remote. You can get them from Bursons and program it yourself providing that your car was unlocked before your key stopped working. Part number for the programmer KF200 and new key KF205.

Hi, are you 100% sure that the fuel pump is pumping the right pressure? I’ve seen those pumps snap the hose fitting and even though you can hear the fuel pump in the tank working it’s not creating any pressure. As far as your no crank only relays clicking should only be battery or the starter motor has decided to cease up from sitting. Get a hammer and give it a tap it may unjam…. Good Luck let me know how you go…. Thanks for your message and support….

Previous owner changed several ECUs etc and the couldn’t get the car to crank hence it was stripped and going to scrap when I rescued it. I know I can do that but these videos are for trouble shooting and diagnosis to learn from others and maybe teach someone something new. Thanks a lot for your input and support…. welcome to mechanics…. 👍🏻

Thanks for that but it’s really hard to start and the engine light is on. I already swapped out most of the sensors with no joy. The ECUs are a problem and you can’t even buy them anymore…. Thank you for your input and support….👍🏻

Thanks a lot for your kind words, solution is there I just haven’t found it yet…. I’m a sucker for punishment I’ll keep trying….👍🏻

@@howtopete33you need the numbers off the ecu to match up,with one out of a wreck plenty of vz wrecks about getting an ecu is not hard

Hi no problem I do they are $75 plus postage or pick up from Tamworth NSW. Thanks for watching and your support!!!

Thank You for your kind words and support! I don’t have a super sophisticated scanner to test the wiring harness that you suggest but I will go and inspect it. Thanks for the tip…

@@howtopete33 there are two plugs one above the other. Near the side of the thermostat to the right side. Mice and possums sit in there also and chew the cords. The ECM has all bonded earths and sense wires to each sensor. Sometimes the sensors get shorted by animal or human interaction and not get any readings. If someone has a tech2 obd scanner , can read that side of the control and may show abnormal activity and show the range is open or the resistance is way off chart. Some obd scanners cannot detect it.

Sounds like the alternator is no good. I think you have covered everything else associated with the charging side of things. If the wiring and connections to the alternator are good and still not charging then it can only be the alternator that’s failed… please let me know when you work out the problem… Thanks for your question and support….

@@howtopete33 ok will do thanks

Wow I’ve never heard of that before….

@@howtopete33 after googling it apparently the obd2 port has 2 grounds that once the obd2 scanners connected it basically acts like the PIM Module and is being the gateway communication between the bcm and ecu once disconnected it cuts off as it losses communication with the bcm and ecu so I think the only thing keeping the car running and driving with the scan tool connected is because it would be relaying the data from all modules to trick the system into thinking everything is communicating and is all good and Once that middle man aka the obd2 is disconnected stops relaying loses the gateway between the 2 systems and essentially loses communication and power and shuts down

As it says the obd2 port has the 2 grounds chassis ground and signal ground and bridges the grounds when scantool is plugged in essentially being the brain of the car whilest connected I've tryed with 3 scantools vident , toolpro supercheap auto one and a cheap $10 blue tooth one and all work and allow the car to start with the key and turn off with the key and start back up and drive around without issue maybe worth testing in the next video might lead to a possible signal or ground issue somewhere that we haven't found yet as I'm sure I've gone over all the grounds in the car but as soon as the scanners connected its like there never was a crank no start issue to begin with its very odd and interesting

@@howtopete33 the car also when trying to start the car without the scanner connected would show up on the dash with low fuel warning and said there's only a qauter of a tank even tho there's alot more when going into the diagnostic mode holding mode and set and then putting the key in and turning to accessories it would should 0L of fuel in the car aswell in it and would pop up with service soon and about 3 times it showed up with service error contact dealer and when the car was running and driving before the no crank no start issue the onboard computer would reboot randomly within 1 or 2 seconds and do a system OK check and gauages would drop and come back even when driving but wouldn't effect the car you could still accelerate ect while that happend so with the scanner when trying to reset the service soon message it wouldn't allow me to reset it so connected the scanner and turned the key have to make sure the padlock on the dash goes out so unlock the car before turning the key and started up and all gauges would be normal and show all the right levels and I'm still able to daily drive it untill I figure out what to do next hopefully this helps definitely keen to finally get to the bottom of this issue as it just happend out of no where was running good parked it up after a drive 20 mins later no crank no start so I think the scan tool must be reading all data from all those models and tricking it into thinking the cars perfectly fine and ready to go as it'll just keep having constant power via the obd2 to keep all signals and systems alive untill you unplug it 😀

@@howtopete33 and really appreciate the videos great quality and interesting they really have helped my get a better understanding of how the systems and certain things work in my car which will always be useful keep up the good work

What scan tool are you using and if you scan it without starting it are you getting any faults codes?

@@howtopete33 hi videnti400 and I get alternator F terminal Low Voltage but that the only code As none of the other codes come back unless I unplug the obd2 while it's running it'll come up with bcm data lost pcm data lost and no seriel communication

My pleasure!!! Thanks for the feedback and your support!!!!

Thanks so much Pete. I thought it was going to be really difficult 👍

Will do thanks a lot…

No you don’t…

I've also found if you put in a scan tool into the obd2 it'll start right away and you can drive around with it connected without issues and turn the car off and start it up again with it still connected as soon as you unplug the obd2 it'll cut out

You are on the money my friend… I’ve kind of narrowed it down to the PIM but I can’t seem to get a wiring diagram/manual for it even though I bought two separate ones on line. As I mention in part 5 the same faults keep recurring. So the next step I think I’m going to replace the PIM and see what happens…. Thank you so much for your input it means a lot and thanks for the support….

@@howtopete33 Josh from Joshes Car Corner covered some PIM details in his ECM conversion video. Not sure which one though. Also if you go to Just Commodores, you’ll find a link to the genuine factory manual. I can’t post a link here.

Thank You very much for your kind words and support. To be honest I’m not a big fan of the commodores last commodore I like is the VH. However I have a soft spot for Australian Made things hence I’d like to put this Ute back on the road. I’m going to keep at it and hopefully I get to the bottom of what’s bothering him/her. The hardest part is that so many people have had a go at it and it was stripped when I went to pick it up. All the panels are only holding on by a couple of bolts cause if I left them in the back of the tray when I picked it up they would have been full wrecked after 300ks…. Hopefully I find the issue sooner rather than later as my viewers must be getting tired of no results….lol…👍🏻

@@howtopete33 so long as this car goes back on the road its all good haha especially as otheres who have these kind of wierd problems may learn something

100% right. That’s why I don’t edit out the things that don’t fix my problems maybe someone else can fix theirs… Thanks a lot for your comment and support!!👍🏻

@@howtopete33 all good man. I’m enjoying it

I've also found if you put in a scan tool into the obd2 it'll start right away and you can drive around with it connected without issues and turn the car off and start it up again with it still connected as soon as you unplug the obd2 it'll cut out

You are 100% right but then you end up with a dud passenger side. Ideally get a passenger side from another car and put it in the driver’s side… Thanks for your comment and support…👍🏻

Thanks a lot for your kind words… it’s comments like yours that keep me making them…

Nothing. When you turn the ignition on that powers it . All I did was just manually activate it instead of the ECU. If your relay doesn’t have power you have a fuse issue I’d say…

Thank You for your kind words. I’m super happy to hear that someone has benefited from my video, that’s exactly what’s going to drive me to make more. Thanks again…

You are more than welcome Bob and thank you for your kind words… comments like yours inspire me to make more videos….

Hi, no absolutely not. You don’t even have to disconnect the battery… just make sure you plug everything back as I have in the video and it will work 100%. Good Luck.