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A bit less than 200mm. Undo the black nob on the saw guide raise to hight ness. and tighten.

@@jonathanjonjon2871 thank you I've got the opportunity to buy one second hand and the guy said it only goes to 80mm don't think it his maybe his dad's

The max. physical length of exposed blade is 200mm but what thickness of timber its capable of cutting depends on the type of wood, what blade and condition, and whether the cut is strait or curved. I have cut 150mm of pine with mine, it wasn't fast.!

@@jonathanjonjon2871 yea I can appreciate that each aspect creates a new dynamic .. to cut a hard wood with large thickness will create problems. Thanks for your advice

@@jonathanjonjon2871 thank you. Is there any obvious things I should check when I go see the saw that someone may try and hide?

You'll have to try that for yourself its easy to do with some practice. Just use a hot glue gun with your chosen colour glue to put a small bead at the ends of your work.

No unfortunately I don't know. I believe it was out of an old Dell. It is the centrifugal type. I've just done an image search and come up with this one. microdream.co.uk/dell-optiplex-gx270-gx260-gx240-desktop-cpu-heatsink-fan-9g180-7p182.html#.XqgrbmhKhQI Note, what I have used is a striped down version. so what you see is minus the cowling which I have cut away. probably a few different ones may do the job.

@@jonathanjonjon2871thank you for the reply and the link/info. I’ve exhausted my search for oem replacements and am now exploring this kind of repair and maybe some other brushless options. Thank you again, have a great evening and weekend.

Sorry I no longer have this transceiver.

Yes . I sold this set in working order thinking it would go to a good home and be put to some use, only to find it was put on a shelf as a sort of private collection! So much for all my hard work!😢

The fan should be audible. Without the cooling fan working the finals will heat up and reduce power . Check to see if the power output drops. Use a separate power meter.

Can't remember my reasoning on other details. The new fan was very quiet and efficient.

You could hardly hear any fan noise from my 767 until one day I tried RTTY and after a few minutes the fan burst into full speed. It was only ticking over before.

Yes I do sometimes. Other times I melt a plastic bead on the end , Makes it look real pretty!

Sorry you've been Iritated I unfortunately not in control of the rain. As for the camera, work when you've made another 2 videos you might even become as good as me!

​@@jonathanjonjon2871blame it on the weather? 🤣😂🤣😂 And your dog ate your homework too, huh? 🤣😂🤣😂 I don't mean to make you mad. I just can't figure out how you expect us to listen to that?

Glad you liked it!

You can't really unless you lacquer it.

Hi Nick. The bearing is of a standard size. It will need extracting from the machine using some sort of drift while holding it in a vice. If the size is not marked on it, measrure it . In the uk I sometimes take bearings to farm repair workshops they are often experienced at ordering that sort of thing. Just note it should be the type that has a plastic seal on both sides to keep the saw dust out and grease in.

6:10 This copper is so hard it must be steel that is coated with copper. Copper is healthy for the skin.

I don't

That is not steel. Copper in electrical cable is not annealed. It is work hardened and the hammering hardens it further.@@lenny108

Might be 2mm

Yes they are wooden blocks .(you can get other materials I believe) You make them yourself on the saw and perhaps a sander for fine adjustments. A nice scrap of oak or other hardwood. The end grain should be in very gentle contact with the side of the band.

Heres the manual. www.flickr.com/photos/mercian/albums/72157634064650720/

@@jonathanjonjon2871 thanks a lot. Learnt quite a bit and will no doubt learn more as I go! I've just uploaded a little short of it running 'post tuning'. My backstop bearing is knackered so I'm looking for a replacement but just getting the tension and blocks right has made a big difference. Thanks!

I've watched the video. That is quiet a wide band and seems like a lot of teath per inch but cutting well. If the back stop bearing is just tight or noisy try lubing it . Its not that critical unless its all floppy. You make much better videos than me . Well done.

@@jonathanjonjon2871 it's got damage, some major scoring on the face on the bearing. Is it possible to flip them round 🤔? I ordered this blade a long while back but next time I'll certainly be changing it to something with less TPI. Thanks for all the help!

Hi owen. The exact length is not important so long as you can tension it correctly. Too many teeth will produce a slower cut and tend to clog up on soft wet or thick wood. I use 4 teeth per inch on a 10mm band. This cuts quickly will do a good a good curve and is relatively easy to sharpen. A wider band needs higher tention and curves are more difficult .

Just watched your video of cutting the axe handle. It seems you have a very slack band. It vibrates sideways a lot. I think that would make steering those curves very difficult. A good dust extractor might help. A lot of dust is a big fire hazard.

I didn't ever imagine that anyone could get that much pleasure from something so boring! Perhaps I should recommend playing it on a loop!

Thanks for your comment. It looks like chrome to me. If it is zinc I may be able to re zinc it. Before I try what makes you say it's zinc?

@@jonathanjonjon2871 Chrome does not go that grey colour, it normally starts rusting under the chrome and it bubbles off the the part, with zink it goes a dull grey colour, that is when it has oxidised. Galvanised steel does the same. Just put some dry lubricant on it and it will be fine. Even a bit of wax will work fine, so that the sawdust does not stick to it. Hope that helps

Yes thanks for that just asumeded it was chrome but can see its not now. I will try dry lubricant even a pencil for the graphite.

Not sure probably 50 watt.

Do you mean Kity bandsaw 10 0613 220 v . ? Use the link to flickr . com above graham. I have just tried it and it still works.

I don't have this transceiver any more and it's been a long time since I've worked on it. There's a lot of screws to take out to do just about anything to this set. You need a lot of patients and the engineers manual, which is on line. Follow it carefully!!

No . I used lead free solder.

Hi Connor. That's a good question I no longer have this equipment so had to get my grey matter warmed up to understand where you are coming from. So here's the answer ! I don't believe there is any need to change settings. Remember all of the tests are to do with insulation, continuity of earth and wattage of the appliance. In the video the kettle is a 230v appliance plugged in to the 13 amp 230v socket . If it were 115v it should be plugged into the Yellow 16 amp socket above. The insulation tests would be the same for either voltage as will the earth continuity test. However if one had an appliance with the wrong plug attached a false reading or error message would display when testing the wattage of the appliance. If for instance I had plugged my 230v 2800 Watt kettle in to the 115v socket I would have expected a 1400 watt rating would be recorded on the PAT tester. If on the other hand I plugged a 115v 1840 watt kettle in to the 230v socket It would see a 3680 watt load !! and hopefully display FAIL ! or FAULT ! As it would do if the element were shorted out. Bare in mind that part of the PAT test should include a check that the appliance has the right plug fitted and correctly, in the first place. Hope that helps.

I dont believe Tin is poisonous! Lead is if ingested. I used Lead free solder. On the other hand copper can be deadly when badly corroded and ingested! The key to survival is DON'T EAT MY BRACELET ! 🤢😵‍💫

1 end make a snake head the idea's r coming

There are a lot of ideals this guy missed. 😢😅

Yes it looks really messy and I must admit I was not best pleased when it happened. The thing about solder is it won't stick unless the metal is the right temperature and has flux on it to stop oxidisation. Then a bond at a molecular level can be formed. The metal at that place was cold and had no flux. As I removed the work from the vice it simply fell off, much to my delight ! That event was removed in the edit.

Thanks John. Glad its been useful. You are right I've not had any problem with it so no video yet. Can you turn the knob or has it ceased up? or just turning with no function? Try some lube.

@@jonathanjonjon2871 thanks for replying. It turns, but nothing happens. I'll have to crack it open! :)

Hi Nick. So far not had to do it. I suggest after peeling off the existing tyre use a nontoxic paint stripper to clean up any residual glue.

@@jonathanjonjon2871 I am going to Have a go this week I will take the top one off first and see how I get on it will be a challenge as I only have one arm but it’s not going to stop me. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks nick

@@nicklloyd8191 Ah yes tricky! like many things I suspect. I'm under the impression that they are glued on so a quick blast from a hot air gun may help. I will be interested to see how it goes.

Yeah , Only have a big one.

Sorry I don't check the gauge. Made from scrap mains cable may be 1 or 1.5 mm . Heavier wire harder on the fingers. My grandchildren can plat with 1mm copper. If you want to use heavier wire than you can handle, heat up to red hot plunge in cold water. This will soften but also tarnish and will need more work on the wire wheel. Mind your fingers! May also need hardening before polishing on the wire wheel. To do this heat to red hot and cool slowly. You can clean with acid but I will leave someone else to comment on that.

@@jonathanjonjon2871 you can't harden copper by heating it up and letting it cool slowly. You "harden" it by working it... bending, hammering, etc.

Thanks Jeff for the correction. Pure copper wont harden by heating and cooling slowly. Certain copper alloys can however but i understand it's a slow process.

@@jonathanjonjon2871 I may be wrong myself... I just heard about kiln hardening silver by heating it to 500ish and holding it there for dome time and letting it slowly get to room temperature. It may work for copper too? So I apologize if I am wrong on that.

Unfortunately I'm moving house so work shop all packed up. If you have some copper wire make a spring , soften it and try hardening it again by that method . it may simply be the environment it is aloud to cool in. I believe aluminium is hardened to make engine bearings by allowing it to cool in certain gasses . Let me know how it goes Jeff.

Hi Gianfranco No unfortunately I don't know. I believe it was out of an old Dell. It is the centrifugal type. I've just done an image search and come up with this one. microdream.co.uk/dell-optiplex-gx270-gx260-gx240-desktop-cpu-heatsink-fan-9g180-7p182.html#.XqgrbmhKhQI Note, what I have used is a striped down version. so what you see is minus the cowling which I have cut away. probably a few different ones may do the job.

@@jonathanjonjon2871 Ok Jonathan, thank you and compliments! Best regard iw2nxe Gianfranco