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How are you balancing the airflow between each printer? If you’re not using a baffle and manifold system, you’ll have high CFM air flow at the printer closest and next nothing at the furthest printer.

Do you have linear rails on your ender 3V2 for the X and Y axis?

Do you realize all three Amazon links or the same for the Q1 Pro?

How do I fix the clogging in the first place?

The K1 max has such a weak bed sub frame that leveling doesn't matter. Push even gently on either back corner and the whole bed goes out of level. The one rod at the back just isn't enough for such a week bed sub frame.

How fast do you run your ender 3 printers?

what fan are you using? i need a bigger one.

Would it be possible to see the back of one of the machines? How are the ducts attached?

I've been struggling with mine, what do you have your nozzle offset at for .6 nozzle?

Do you run your exhaust during a print with ABS/ASA? Wouldn't that remove the heat from the chamber?

cool looks awesome!!!

Hello, I need some help. I am new to 3d printing and i printed this 100mm calibration print, and it in fact showed that I had some issues (i get 99.5, 99.6 ...) but i don't what to adjust, what settings should i change in my printer or in the slicer ? Thanks

Pardon my ignorance, but would auto belt tension arm work. A toothed belt does not need to be that tight it just need to mesh correctly at the idles end and drive end.

Can you provide feedback on your auto eject system? Converting my empty 3000 sq ft warehouse to 3d print farm and looking for something that will auto eject. Appreciate all your content.

this doesnt make sense as gravity and weight of gantry keeps screwteeth engaded. Only posible case when this is true would be when you lay gantry weight on the printbed , and that should NOT happed at all. (but propably that happened when you had put your measuring tool against the printbed)

Thanks for the knowledge sharing. Just getting started with CR-10 SE Could you please share some of your mods on your setup; How did you mod/setup the Spool holder? Did you modded the cooling fan?

Great insight and solution

Is the QiDi Q1 Pro a open source printer?

should be a much easier way, i have an ender v1 and after an auto zero if you move z plus 0.02 you should hear the limit switch close and then move it back to zero and you hear it open

Can you list all of the mods that you've done to your CR-10 SE?

Thanks for the video. I had no idea it could maintain temp while using the exhaust fan. That does have a lot of utility.

I feel obliged to point out that if you encounter binding on any axis, check the eccentric nuts. I underestimated their influence once, and after a minor adjustment, my X-gantry rolls a LOT smoother, with all six wheels making contact. Sometimes, taking it all apart and properly and carefully reassembling it does help!

Your linear advance is off...thats the reason the cornors are bulging

I just updated the slicer to Creality Print 5.1 after replacing the hot end on my K1 (the old one failed because one of the ceramic heater wires detached from the contact pad of the heater element that's fused to the ceramic cylinder of the hot end. I think the wires must be welded on to cope with the 320+ degrees C temperature rating). My first print was more than 1% undersize on the X & Y axis. Then I did another print (sliced with a slightly different profile) that was almost spot-on dimensionally. Is there no way to calibrate the X & Y e-steps?

Try Diagonal dimensions it will be way worser according to my tests.

I've only printed PLA+ and PETG+ on my Q1 Pro but I'm glad that when I decide to go with ABS or ASA that I'll be covered. Thanks.

Theoretically, you could test this by z hopping mid print and if you get bad prints then you can assume it is this, correct? This is the first time I'm hearing of this after trying to get rid of elephant foot after not printing for a while, this would be more prevalent and known about I would think if it's a common issue?

If you take the back cover off the q1 pro - you will find that the fumes are not really sent out the exhaust vent. The fumes are just dumped into the back space of the machine and end up coming out the power supply vent as well. So you need to add an internal duct to channel the chamber exhaust out the right vent. This will also keep your main board and power supply cooler.

Can the QiDi Q1 Pro print Ultem 1010? How can the chamber be made to be hotter 90 -100C and the print head to 400C?

Good info. I’m curious if the X1E can exhaust the fumes while keeping up the temp. But of course it’s so much more expensive. And do you need to run the fan at 100% speed? All you need to do is run it enough to create a negative pressure. I think it would be interesting to do some smoke tests with an automotive smoke machine and see how much it leaks at different fan percentages. Also if PETG is too shiny I wonder what the finish is with PCTG. I hear you can control the finish with temperature. Similar properties to PETG and ease of printing with low VOCs and no requirement for a heated chamber. I do love ABS though. Especially Bambu’s ABSGF. And ABS can be cheap so I think you’re going with the right method.

Why not ASA?

You should check the center of the bed to see it there is any unwanted warp in the bed, concave or convex.

I like q1 pro too!! It can print many high performance filaments perfectly! It's a workhorse in my studio.

Would be great to see a fresh demo of how your parts removable system works.

Is PETG not a good option to prevent warping?

I forgot to mention that a flexible duct was attached to the printer exhaust, and routed to a nearby window where the fumes were exhuasting outside.

Wise man!

Thank you!!!

Do you recommend an ultraflat plate upgrade?

Time for an update? Or have you given up on RUclips?

Temperature issues across multiple printers, buy a lot of thermistors from farnell (and heatsink). Solder yourself and rebuild all heatbreak and heater units with thermal paste

I WONDER IF CHAINS WOULD WORK?, OR STEEL BELTS?

THANKS FOR THIS, its been bothering me too, i just wanted to know what was causing the elephants foot. knowing gives me closure haha thanks!!!!

2 year old video and it's still super duper useful. Thank you for taking the time to make this informative video.

Would like to see an update from you.

great topic, thanks 👍

You sir were ahead of your time

Great video. Like the calibration print and how it avoids the over extrusion corners. Which 3d printer do you consider more repeatable than the Ender 3 and that we can afford? A thought for you. Why not have your calibration print in some smaller sizes like 20mm, 40mm so we can get the calib close then use your 100mm. Your print shows 3hrs in my Cura setup. Thanks

Thanks for the idea and the video. But it still lacks precision. I bought 3 dial gauges and printed the mount/cases of them and applied the same process as yours. There are a few problems you do: 1-) Putting the X-axis gauge onto the hotend cover is not constant because it is not tightly mounted, and this causes changes from corner to corner. 2-) Putting the X-axis gauge on and in front of the hotend lowers the precision at the back of the bed, because it cannot access to the very end of it. This causes a different between the front and the rear end prints. A bed-wide print becomes not consistent between front and rear edges. So you should not use on-hotend cover model. You should use on X-axis-bar model for X-axis calibration. There are such models.

Congratulations on a pretty well-presented and helpful video!