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Watching this as someone who used to work at firehouse and I still crave their sandwiches from time to time. Favorite job I've ever had. Edit: Firehouse DOES drain the steamed meats! So if you want it to be the exact same I would recommend draining your meats until it starts forming drops. It shouldn't be completely dry.

What’s name of this product

I think I've watched this video a couple times. I always forget that I've watched this video a couple times. But like it's just not dispensing the water a dispenses the powder but it doesn't dispense the water. Our thing is super clean though it has nothing to do with it being clogged. Would there be another reason like the water heats up and everything it just doesn't come out

This is great for pregnant folks who need deli meat at 165

Wonder if this is safe on painted aluminum wheels?

Gonna stain the driveway. Do it on the grass

So yeah we just take your word for it... yeah right

Man, that AR Blue Clean RCA3-PRO put out an awesome amount of water for cleaning cars. I will get 1 for myself once they start selling just the pressure alone, I do not need the entire kit.

Anybody know year of sport trac rotor

Just curious. I have a set of aluminum semi polished forks that have some patina developed in 34 years. Same condition are the Borani laced wheels. Will this remove the patina and make it bright or simply remove the patina and make the look dull like raw aluminum?

Hi @HeBeGBe501 I know you posted this a year ago but, hopefully, you’re still seeing comments. I bought a CompCooler several months ago and have had an interesting learning curve, including mounting tie wrap mounts to hold the hoses near the bottom of the ice chest so they don’t float up to the top like you noted. My results are not as good as yours. The ice melts much faster, but I’m on a motorcycle in 100°, or more, heat. The combination of hot wind plus the sun’s heat are probably why it’s worse. I’ve since wrapped the hard ice chest with 3M heat shield and added another layer around the outside of the unit. This seems to help quite a bit. Simon, from CompCooler, has been fantastic and I’ve had the best customer support imaginable. Thank you for your video. I’ll have to try the ziplock bag idea. I’m really glad you posted this. I’ve shared a link to it with others. I’m sure it’ll help them as well.

Go heavy... don't go light... round up... shoulda gone with 10...

Most acid based cleaners will do this just be careful not to get it on paint it won’t take the paint off but will make the clear coat milkey I used to clean semis on the weekends for extra cash and used acid wash on the wheels it’s amazing but will ruin clear coat and chrome in a matter of seconds also plastic will get brittle from it

Perfect, I have a single core that I need to have entry and exit on the same side for a rear mount radiator. I was relectant because I thought I'd have to weld that inner edge along the core.

This comment is to update a few items from the video and comments. 1. In the video, I mentioned that there was an assembly issue with the shutter valve. I contacted AR North America, who forwarded the issue to their engineering department. Engineering confirmed it was an assembly issue but no damage should have been done. They did go ahead and send me replacements of the shutter components just in case unexpected damage was done. The customer service at AR North America was great to deal with! 2. For the 40 degree nozzle, I found some debris that looked like red thread locker or sealant lodged in the orifice. Removing the debris fixed the spray pattern issue. 3. I drilled out the orifice, in the foam canons, to 1.5mm (5.0 orifice size). The foam spray is still good, and feels like it may even be better than with the 1.1mm version. With the larger orifice, I washed my truck, moving faster this time, and only used roughly 1/4 of the foam canon in Stars and Stripes. I got just as good of a wash as I did when using most of the bottle.

awesome!

what year Neon injectors work on the Renix motor?

I’ve got these exact tires on my XJ. They still run 70 down the interstate no problem

I wonder if you can get the pressure washer by itself. I dont all the other accessories.

I've used Stars & Stripes twice, and i like it, BUT it requires too much water. For me, using that much water is too wasteful.

Brother, at close to 3 gpm you should use your 1.7 orifice on cannons. It will put excess pressure on the motor. On my Active 2.3, i use the 1.45 orifice.

IamjoshV reviewed the ar630ts. Nice review though.

Thanks for review, what orifice are you using on the stars and strips foam cannons?

Link?

Inspired by this video i was thinking of doing same exact .85 lift this Friday. Do you ever regret not going 1.75 front and 1 rear? Does the .85 lift make a difference in look in person?

Great video. I shared this with my wife. Planning on doing the same Bilstein level kit plus a spacer for the rear spring on her 2016 SR5 T4R. I would love it if she would help me install it as well. She said as long as I cook some steak filet like you did it’s a deal. Gonna have to sweet talk her into a Milwaukee 1/2 impact as part of the deal as well. 😂 Aloha 🤙🏽

Youre torching it not melting it. Put the cheese to indirect heat and it will melt.

Please explain your double shear tie rod ends? Also what gears, lockers, and tire you running on the Dana 30 Sweet rig

Man why isn’t your channel more popular?

What gear ratio you running?

Are you running a truetrac up front? What size tires?

What size tires are running on that Dina 30 buddy

Dana 30 ?

Just did this on my 89 Xj, Dana 30 version without the vacuum disconnect. For me there was no need to grind the hub assembly to make the rotor fit as mentioned on the Cobra Marty post on Cherokee Forum. This may be because I also used the Motorcraft rotors or because there are some variations in the bearing as mentioned in another comment. Also no shim washers needed for me, the bracket was only off center by about 1.5mm without them. Plenty of clearance on my Pro Comp steel rims (15x8 with 3.75 backspacing). I did have to grind a tiny bit at the top corner of the caliper where there is slight interference with the knuckle but that was it. For rotors, if you go with Motorcraft as in this video the BRR236 is now superseded by the BRRC105. I thought I was sent the wrong rotors but later confirmed with a Ford dealer that the BRRC105 is the new version. They worked just fine and an added bonus is that these these are coated rotors. The assembly itself seems solid. As for how they work, I can't say yet, I'm running the stock booster and master cylinder and they were terrible before this. Still researching upgrade options for those. The DIY big brake was step 1 of 2. I'll come back here to update for anyone trying this.

Hi, I’m watching your video and see it is an about a year old now. I’m looking at this unit or the backpack version. I live in Arizona and it has been roughly 90-115 degrees out while I’m trying to work outside installing gate operators. Is this something that would be able to maintain a cool temperature? I’m not sure if your tests were factoring “wearing” the cool shirt or if this was just the temperature of the shirt itself? I’m looking at using one with one of their full suits. Pants/shirt/ head cover. Just not sure if it would be able to maintain. Maybe just your opinion of it after a year of use? Thanks!

A fellow Arkansan out here doing it! Awesome!

Please provide us a "long term" dependability report . . Is the system still working well. Any issues with the pump or battery ?

Excellent write up. I just finished this conversion on my '86 XJ. If anyone else is doing this note that as far as the XJ is concerned there are 3 wheel bearing options. The 1984-1989(?), the 1990(?)-1999, and 1999-2001 bearings. Since mine is a 1986 with a 1985 axle for the 4x4 conversion I have the phase one bearings. Due to the offset of those bearings I didn't need any washers or other shims to line up the calipers. So if you are doing this brake upgrade use the early bearings, and grab a 1996 XJ booster for any 1984-1995 for a dual diaphragm upgrade (or you can use a 1996 GM Astro hydro boost unit). 4.6L @ 9.2:1 and a 68-232-4 cam, AX15 + NP242, D30HP + F8.8 Trac loc @ 3.55 on 225/75R16.

Still waiting on that undate bud!

Howdy, had you considered a refrigerated cooler versus the issues with the ice? There are some out there that operate on 12V or even batteries that might keep the water cool enough consistently without the melting ice issues.

Thanks for the video. Was looking for a personal cooling solution for people working on a food truck. What with a hot grill, fryer and the exhaust venting system, Rooftop air conditioners can't compete. Just physics. I have been looking at vest-type systems for personal temperature maintenance, like evaporative vests, Ice inserts, and PCM inserts, and a circulatory system like what you tested. This looks like it answered my questions!.

This company totally ripped off Chillout Systems. Their products are very bad quality, do not cool fast and do not work in high temperature environments. They are also China based, not in USA and are not insured or have a UL or CETL certification. Sure, this system is 50% less than Chillout systems but you’re getting 50% less and no 3 year warranty like Chillout Systems.

Where did you find Meyer zoysia sod? I can't seem to find it anywhere. Lawn looks great!

Why would you even buy this? This is processed

i open the door by hand, its effortless with the right spring set up.

We need a 100-115 degree weather test. Thinking about it for employees but want to see first

I used a compressor filter/seperator bowl to install my beads through standard valve stems. I removed the filter element from the bore and placed the beads in the bowl then blew them in with compressed air. You have to remove the valve cores from the stem, of course.

Did you upgrqde the 2.25 pipe for 2.5 before the muffler swap?

Very good research. Thanks for all the effort. I am looking to buy it for motorcycle use. How hard are the tubes that run through the vest. Are they soft enough not to cause any serious injury to the ribs/spine in case of a crash?

What did you use to bent the hard pipe and what dod you use to make the connection between the hard pipe and the flex line Thanks