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Heck yeah bro, nice base meet. I loved all there systems. Those b-2 on the jp 43 looked wicked. Thanks for posting an sharring . I enjoy your videos an time you spend on making them.

Hits so hard it's about to knock the headliner out. 😁

2 Gorillas in the trunk wrestlin !

back in the days.. in 98-99 i had a 96 maxima, had a mtx2300, w 2-12... the trunk would rattle but what was crazy, the whole rear end panels seem to expand, like the bass hit and the rear end would just ballon up.. good times, im old now, nothing but the stock life now on the radios.. lol, dont get old folks

You payed more with xs they just stealing the brand n adding there logo on it😂😂😂😂😂

Dope

Looks like u getting down bro🫡

1st off hope all is well with the fam. They always 1st. 2nd don't run over 15.3 you'll be sorry n make sure you got a good working fire extinguisher in car. 3rd Face that forward and MOST that rattling n breaking will stop. Either take seat backs off or run the port from box to back deck where u have it ported already. You got plenty of db ATM and will sound good. Just try it. Respect kid!🙏

Where do you run your volt meter to

When I run 4 diodes on my 08 crown vic it's at 15.8 my gauge cluster quits and the battery light comes on. Just running 3 diodes it's at 15.2 and gauges start back up. I met another guy with a crown vic and he ran up to 16.1 and fried all his gauges and his digital heat and ac panel. So he said he has no air n heat now and no instrument cluster gauges. I have a 240 mechman with a 45ah yinlong 6 pack like yours. Running a bass 8k and 2 x15v3s at 1 ohm in a b pillar 6th order. Hit a 151.8 at the head rest just clamping 4406 watts. Dam ohm rise Killin me. Both subs dual 1 voice coils. I need a 2nd bass 8k so I can run 1 to each an a half ohm. So anyway just watch getting over that 15.3 on your car. Love the build man

Keep putting in that work bro it be getting nasty.

Its funny how this video showed up on my personal feed. With all the heat on SMD meters showing inconsistencies. Ohms Law for the win and it never lies.....

So did you buy that as a complete kit or did you have buy the balancer from Amazon?

Never go past half way on the gain . Going over half way results in clipping and stuff and very hard on your speakers

Great info🦾 I’m running 2 American base Xxxmax 15s.

Nice video I have the same setup but 12s. Get that lithium and you'll be happy with that amp.

Hi can you build me a box for a Skar Audio ZVX-15v2 D2 15 I live in NC I will come to Florida the box can't be higher than 17" to fit in my trunk

Hello where to buy boxes for my 12 inch subs in Europe? I need 2 separated boxes for one pair (left and right) to put in my house

you ever get you a 50 outta your 15's 👍

Can you help design and build for a 10in JLw6 v2?

У меня в гараже дядька такиеж коробки за 1000₽ собирает

Are you located in California by any chance?😅

Just curious, but why not paint the port before putting the top on. Seems that would be a little simpler. By the way, 250 is low balling yourself unless its a favor for a friend. That's a top tier box.

Sick box bro! And you’re a beast with the circle saw! 🔥

Do they smell like 💩 when first breaking in ???

how many liters ?

Holy shit dude, your doors are gonna come off

Hey bud, are you still working on this project or did u switch it up and not use the resilient sounds? The videos after this one are talking about skar and in this video u said u were using the RS. Didn’t know if u just changed your mind and I missed u mentioning it. Thanks for the videos I’m really liking them and feel like I’m learning some too

So been wanting to buy a bigger box but they cost more then my sub so watching this has motivated me to just build 1 thanks for the vid/motivation building the port wat scares me.thinking on just doing n areo port what's ur thought,any suggestions

Ptak that is honestly lowballing yourself. you have quality materials and great craftsmanship. your also very thorough in your process honestly i would like you to build me a box. But am no where near

Nice subwoofer box you built. You could easily charge $300 for that box.

Nice it's loud.

1$t 🧐👍 Youre in Pontiac, Mi ?? Me two dawg 🤠

Nice I enjoyed.

Center consel for them brother

I just watched a video he said the arrow always points towards the battery. All the other videos says the arrow points towards the alternator. 👉🏾👈🏾 guess I’ll have to try it both ways.

That dude in red and yellow was jacked!

If it's such a good amp.... why do u have to keep buying another one?

I like the skar. The deaf bounce sounds over driven in the highs.

Bud! Thanks for this comparison!

Box build sheet anywhere online?? Nice job!!

Best 💯💪

Prolly need more?

yo what did the whole setup cost (box, cable, amp, sub. and others)

Clean. What year mustang rims is that and the tires size

Omg i changed my stock pitman on my 95. Dude i wanted to mount it on my wall as a trophy. It was HELL getting off. Just did the tie rods, looks like ball joints next . Nothing but suspension. Anyways glad to find your videos. Nothin like them stinkin lincolns haha

What is the cut out dimension for the sub?I have seen different measurements 17.19 and 16.75 Is driving me crazy

I got the same exact car and same exact color. But with Daytonaz. If yours had daytonz and it was parked in the same shopping center as me. I'd be trying to get into your car thinking it's mine that's how identical they.are in color model and year

First of all the S in Marquis is silent. Mar-key. Several YT videos pronounce it Mar-keys. I've done this job 3 times in 2 days. Once to figure it all out. The second time to put on the wrong part.. where the jobber said it fit all from 95 up it does not. The size is the same. The plug is the same. But it's not the same. And the third time will be simple. It's easy to disable and remove one of these Ford airbags. That's 5 minutes. It's hard to get that stupid designed hard plastic air tube off the center stack and then remove it. I found if once I removed it from the stack and pushed it down behind and twisted it one way it comes out a fuzz easier but it's still worse than an angry woman in menopause! Then you can remove the 3 upper 7mm screws from the top of the dash panel and one 10mm nut off the stud holding the dash up and then pull back on the instrument panel and wedge a 2x4 stub in between or you can actually pull the radio and get your hand in from the back to kinda help.. the first time you really need to wedge the dash out and remove the radio or if you have a good friend who works for free come help you just pull the whole instrument panel and then it will still be no fun.. whomever done this job before put on rounded off odd size screws to hold down the actuator they put on. And then tightened them tighter than the hubs of hell. Some people really shouldn't be mechanics. So I done a complete diagnostic on the eatc module and some other things and everything pointed back to the BDA. So that's when I had the genius idea to check if the eBay guy's information was right and it wasn't. So I put my dash back together without the BDA and with it in full cold position. I put a little clear silicone right beside it so it can't move out of that position until I want to mess with it again. I ordered a correct part AND A 5 INCH FLEX aluminum and PVC hose for the stupid hard plastic hose Ford used. I remember in the 80s these cars had flex hoses so I ordered one for this job. Just plain old flexible dryer hose. It will come with two clamps and I may or may not use them. Heater tape used to be a common thing. Nowadays you tell the parts counter guy "heater tape" and most of them have no idea what that is. I'm going to use duck tape because it's what I have for the time being. I looked at using a bit of cold weld to hold a throttle cable on to the blend door arm or wedging a tap on the end to keep the cable from getting free and then running the cable to an adjustment bracket that I'd keep in the glove box and then mark one side cold and one side hot and then I could figure out a suitable adjustment and leave it but I'm really tired of working on it. I can barely walk and I really need to move on to the next project. So when I get back to this in a few days it'll be easy peasy to put the BDA on and put the flex duct back, reinstall the air bag and then get on with my life. A MC YH1766 is what I should have had for automatic HVAC. I really prefer the manual HVAC but this one isn't a manual and in these years the automatic wasn't too much trouble. The manual BDA was a yh1800 I think. This yh1757 is not going to work for this one. I'm going to suggest to everyone to notch the back couple of ears and slide it under the screw and stud and don't worry about tightening them down. Then ayor and less tore up knuckles and finger tips just tighten the front easy screw and leave the other side alone it really doesn't move much once the part on the bottom engages the metal arm. The screws on the BDA should be 5/16" or 8mm. But I know every manufacturer just puts on that day in production whatever they have. So yours may be different.

I have a 89 mint with 65k flawless on lacy spokes has 2800w split running three comp cvr kickers At 2 ohms , trunk flexes like a gorilla tryna get out 😆💪💪💪