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Me too! Hope you enjoy them!

@@DogsandVRMIN yeah hope so, still waiting for them

Try them on as soon as you get them! I got a second pair that was marked as my size but was definitely half a size too small and I had to return them. @@fleng

not true, a switching power supply won't die just if you turn power on with no load. What are you saying?

@@mark12358 Actually that can happen on switching power supplys - but normaly only >350W. They need a load - and mention it. The Amiga PSU is not in the category that should happen. But: Switching power supplys normaly have to have connected earth wire. Neither of the adapter provide this. Maybe the PSU just have some sort of protection against using it without earth wire connected? (just a guess). Anyway, I for myself always use Meanwell power supplys. There are open frame supplys, working well like the RT60B. They are perfect to "repair" a defect Amiga PSU, as they fit perfectly into the original PSU case. The RT-65b is a bit more heavy, as it has a metal frame. I prefer the 65B, as it has a little more current, so no problem with power consumpting extensions (like a pistorm or vambire inside the A500). None of theese modern Meanwell PSU actually has a LED indicator, neither had the original PSU's. Thats also not a quality indicator. Also the PSU case has about the form factor of an original Amiga PSU - which also sounds quite hollow if you put a modern PSU inside. The power cord actually also says nothing about product quality. Inside the PSU-case there is the actual switching power supply - and the cable is screwed in there, as the Amiga cable is. Actually I did not even found other PSU's than the meanwell ones providing the voltages needed, so I would be very supprised if there is anything inside which isn't meanwell...

The PLA is built into the Reloaded motherboards. You don't neen an actual PLA chip for it to run.

@@DogsandVRMIN Ahhh... I had this understanding, that the PLA was needed. That is good. The old original ones are suposed to self destruct or something due to some production inpurity or something.

@@brostenen I've been repairing C64s lately and the most common problem for me seems to be dead RAM chips. I'm guessing the results of overvoltage from the power supplies when they start to go.

@@DogsandVRMIN Yup. An old C64 PSU are always a tricky bastard to use. 😒

I already got a PAL VIC-II, which works fine. It's definitely a problem with the engineering. There was a big long thread on the official Individual Computers website about it: forum.icomp.de/index.php?thread/21-ntsc-video-issue-after-c64r-mk2-is-powered-on-for-extended-time/ Apparently something is wrong with some resistor values. It's SUPPOSED to work fine on NTSC out of the box, it completely doesn't, and this aftermarket mod apparently makes it work better, but after a day or two of constant running it still loses sync. Not a heat thing after all, a resistor value thing.

Yeah, they sent me a replacement that worked correctly.

Jonathan Thompson Apparently the issue is that the Tototek device is using a microcontroller, which is "good enough" in general use but if you have a long extension cord or multitap it messes up. The Uni-Gen PC Engine board has the exact same chips as a real PC Engine gamepad so it works just like the real thing. You can get them from Sega Sonic Fan's site: segasonicfan.wixsite.com/retro/shop

VRmin if only there was a way to use my ps2 arcade sticks. I tried to daisy chain with tototek plus unigen but it was a no go. Perhaps I create a project box with a mc cthulhu

Yeah that would not work. The Uni-Gen board is for using Sega Genesis controllers on other machines. You would need a Sega Genesis/Megadrive joystick, not the PS2 ones. The Japanese 6 button arcade power stick is nice and microswitched so you could go with something like that?