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I'm new to jewelry making. Please provide more info about the cutter you used for jump rings. Perhaps compare a few of them. how to get blades. Lubricate. etc. Tool to sit on top of work surface. Not equipment required for a shop/factory type production - just a very simple DIY type of person who doesn't like to saw & flush cutter not consistent.

Great video. Can you tell me what you use for your source for the micro torch? I have MAPP gas and propane torches but I want to get one of those micro torches with the controlled heat like you are using with the oxygen and acetylene

I'm looking for some information on rolling Mills but I couldn't get through your video because your audio is so jacked

There might be some good information to glean here, but it will have to be delivered visually and not via audio. I bet you’re tired of hearing why people just move along when they hear the noise in the background and find no closed captioning available. I’m another of those people. Byeeee…

Thanks for the video, that was the content I was looking for as I am looking into getting a Vevor! I ran the audio through Da Vinci Resolve voice isolation first, otherwise the background noise is really bad... :)

Sure sucks they don’t mention needing a particular type of dremel tool. I’ve had one of these stupid kits for several years but since I could never figure out why it wouldn’t fit my dremel and there are no instructions I’ve mostly just left it abandoned. Just one minor and (from my perspective) blatantly critical) but of information being withheld made this whole things garbage.

Come back to the YT !!

Start making vids again man.

Hello! Can I ask you which screw or bolt you used to fasten the rolling mill to the counter? Thanks!

Bravo bell discorso

Hi 👋 Do you know which rolling mill machine would make flat wire 0.3mm x 1mm, 0.5mm x 1mm?

The best video on this topic I’ve seen and there have been many.

I know this is an old video, but how do you mount it to the bench , are there only two kinda cut out bits back and front ? I just literally bought this particular one , my first mill.

I'd probably attempt to measure the gears and see if I can find some affordable helical gears. Either that, or see if I have all parts available to just make it a chain drive. Which is probably over complicating things, as you would need an extra gear and a tensioner, but it would operate so much better.

bracelet is sick!!!

May I ask what the tool is you’re using for your silversolder wire? Been looking everywhere for it haha!

spring for a Durston powered mill.... I have two of them and have never looked back.....

Cheap Mill....you should have 2 sets of gears....that way they engage more smoothly and consistantly....and the father apart you have your rolls, the less engagement you have of the gear set...

That's not a complete 100% Ramses!... looking close it's looking good but .. need some more in don't say it in English...pero en castellano, esta hermoso, mis primeros salieron asi..pero buscando mas encontré rl detalle , las cadenas en espejo las debes soldar en diagonal y sin cortar los sobrantes, después sueldas el sobrantes entre si,les das forma con un pequeño yunque redondo y después lo pliegas , rebajas con lima y pules. Asi queda la media luna perfecta de las caras.

Too much background noise

Бро! Припой проволоку делай потоньше чтобы легче было паять

Maybe you've figured it out since you made this, but to keep it in alignment while soldering, there's something welders use called "tack welds" to hold several pieces together to make sure it's all squared properly before making all the welds. If you just solder in the middle and at the ends, then your entire piece should remain in alignment. You could call it "tack soldering" I suppose.

Read the manual before you touch it. It's not a toy!

When the rollers are far appart take a piece of foam or fabric and wrap it around one gear, experiment with thickness and material to make it work, it will take up some slack in the gears and it actually makes other so you can get the rollers even further appart than stock ❤

Glad to see you back 🎉🎉🎉, you have some of the best tutorials on RUclips especially the Ramses bracelet

What’s the liquid at 11:00

Hi silent Bob! First of all: DOGMA was great! But regarding the microscope: Do you have an Amazon Link for the light?

Братан, концевые и замок карабин не подходят для изделия такого рода. Одно дело когда ты одеваешь цепочку на шею и у тебя обе руки свободны для этого и совсем другое дело когда ты будешь в извращённой позе пытаться застегнуть такой браслет 😊. Сделай хотя бы часовую застёжку и концевики с шарнирами. А если время будет позволять, то замок-коробка на таких браслетах идеально смотрится. Это занимает больше времени и выходит дороже, но клиенты будут довольны!

Thanks for the video and info on the mill. Please wear a microphone. Would make it that much better. Cheers

3:26 *Brah, '4 mounting holes' refers to the base plate, which has 4 holes.*

thanks for the video, i enjoyed your explanation easy to follow ..But the music is totally overbearing, please sort the music to be softer. thanks

Cody is it possible to melt the ends with a hand torch

how do you feel about this mill 2 years later?

Good vid man. Leaned much sitting on the train. Thanks.

Hi Cody, I am so grateful for your review. I have a question (please); I see this identical microscope on Amazon sold by "DZQ". Is it the equipment the same as Vevor - if you know... I can't find any comparison info. I'm guessing it's just 2 different sellers of the same equipment. Thanks for your help, if can. 🌺

Two things. First and very important. Don't leave the chuck key in the chuck when you aren't using it, EVER! That's a safety issue. Trust me. Bad things will happen if you leave it in the chuck. Sometimes painful things. The second thing is that you don't need different cutting tips to hit different angles. The tool holder and cross slide can be adjusted to the angles you need. I only (mostly) keep my toolholder at 90° when I'm parting off materials. Use the face of the chuck to realign to 90° after you cut at different angles.

You tested before you greased up the gears. If you greased them, did it change the binding any further?

You can make a longer handle, but the vevor doesn't have a great gear ratio. You may consider, in the future, getting a mill that has a 1:4 ratio. I believe the vevor has a 1:2.5.

❤👍🇧🇩

Turned out nice man

I was wondering what my old coworker Cody Dagutis was up to today so I did a Google search which brought me here, to his RUclips channel. I see you are making the transition from the sales floor to the jewelers bench, seems like a natural progression. This is excellent content, I'm glad to see you moving in this direction, I can't wait to see what you do next. Best of luck - MH

Do you need to use a .5 Barlow lens with this microscope? I’ve been researching budget microscopes and keep reading about needing the .5 lens to increase work area (and it also increases depth of field). No one seems to mention this in reviews of the Vevor. People seem to be satisfied with the distance/work area. What are your thoughts?

17:30 when your trying to line it up if you have access to a laser and can tack it together then flow solder for all the joints it will definitely take less finagling.

Добре чоловік все показав. Але зроби щось з музикою. Не чути, що ти кажеш, а потім музика як заграє, аж вуха ріже

I think you're running into the problems of trying to move involute gears away from their designed centers. If you notice the contact points between gears, the points that they 'hang up' are well removed from where you tried to grind the gear faces. This is a 'cheap' way of giving the machine a reasonably useful maximum stock size. If you really want to improve the gearing, you need to look at a chain drive with a tensioner. Nice review, though! Thanks (don't forget that the same problem exists on the other side of the roller :) )

Would it have been a better idea to pick the thing up and go some room where you can be heard??

Thanks for the video on the Vevor Microscope Cody. I just purchased one of these, and am about to mount it to my work bench. I will be using if for viewing gemstones, coins, and whatever else I think I need to see super close up. So not sure if you're still having the wobble issue with this scope, but I do see something a little unusual regarding how you've got the scope mounting ring and angle bracket assembly put together. The rod appears to be upside down, and the top cup washer is at the top instead enclosing the ball assembly that the scope mounting ring attaches to. Perhaps you've fixed this since you first did this video. I agree that the scope still moves more than it should. It seems that some of the hardware has changed over the last year of so. I have a single knurled plastic knob that goes into one side of the ring. The documentation says there are 3 holes, and 3 thumb screws to secure the scope into. I won't be using the head rest, and the knob that locks the head rest in place is the same kind of knob that fixes the scope in the ring. So I will be using this in the second hole to help stabilize the scope in the ring. I do agree that it would further stabilize the scope by tapping another hole and using this for stabilization.

Great video super motivating keep it up!

thanks for solving my only issue before buying this microscope , that is the working at an angle from the main arm .

Thanks for doing this video. It just popped up as I was researching the VEVOR Milling machine. I am going to pick one up in a couple of days on Wednesday. It will have to be enough to get me started for a while. I will definitely be doing this mod if I have the same problem. Thanks!