Видео

Interesting fix. I found cork to be the best so far. Not expensive, though not as cheap as cling film.

It's fun. And I was not happy with the turntable. The new ones are too expensive for what they are. I can build the SRM tech deck, using new bearing, arm and motor, for exactly the same price as Rega are charging and obtain a better result. I cannot believe how much Rega charge for coated chipboard.

It's not fun Rega have engineered a legendary table worth ever penny & the rest that's why they don't even have to advertise & they plough the money into development Instead leave it to the experts instead of slating them just because you can't afford it

@@jasonemanuel9070 this turntable was broken. I could have taken it in for a service but I would have learned nothing and spent more money. I'm very happy for you to do whatever you like with your own hardware, including nothing if that's your preference.

@@ashtontechhelp did you break it🤣 The money you spend on daft upgrade you could get a better TT anyway I'm pleased for you too,I believe in keeping everything original but that's just me a simple watchmaker

@@jasonemanuel9070 it transpired that the motor was busted any way. But the resin was buckling, also, and the suspension band was weak. It needed something doing. Eventually I went to the SRM deck, vastly better.

I just found them on eBay - but I'm not sure I like them, much stiffer than the original wires and they affect the bias as a result. I'm probably going to change them at some point.

There are several companies selling since litz wires on eBay.

I do have a couple of designs in mind. However I don't have the tools to make it possible, unfortunately.

The easy choice. Valid, but not in the spirit of enquiry and discovery, which is how I like to do things.

Thanks for taking to time for such an extensive reply. Rega say that the coating is phenolic resin. The Moth arms are just re-badged Rega arms, so no real gains to be had there. I'm unlikely to be changing the arm soon in any case, I just don't have that much disposable income for something that does not get used greatly. However, if you check out video 3 in the series, you will see that I have moved to an all-acrylic setup and I'm very much happier with that.

@@ashtontechhelp no the moth arms are not re badged they were manufacturing before Rega go that design, I don't know what they did they sold them the blueprints or something to Rega. yes phenolic resin is used in the process of formica I've seen these tables they look like formica that is a better material then just phenomic resin on its own. I think they're trying to keep their cards close to their chest if you put formica on the top and bottom and make up a stiffening plate stiffening plate on bottom as well will be much better deck

I'm pleased to have been off some use.

Hi Tim, Try here: srm-tech.co.uk/epages/4c008923-2265-416e-a207-cc9dd8b06028.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/4c008923-2265-416e-a207-cc9dd8b06028/Products/AZU02 not cheap but extremely good, noticeably better than stock. I'm finally happy with the sound. The cork mat is also well worth doing. Controls the ring on the platter very well. I have done a video about this - part 3 of my Rega tweaks and upgrades series.

If you're speaking of the stand-off pieces, it really depends upon your setup. My turntable had non-standard feet, so it rode at a different height. You have to factor in the height of your feet, the thickness of your disk, the thickness of your rubber anti-slip mat. I just bought a few from eBay for very little money, at different heights, and experimented until I got the correct height. You can usually get 2 or 4 of each length from the same seller, who will then discount the postage. You might also need to use some disks under your turntable feet (sorbothane is best, it's also very sticky when clean, cork or rubber might also work) to alter those by a mm or two. Just need to ensure that everything is non-slip, otherwise you cannot tension the belt.

Completely agree. Not possible in my living room, sadly

@@ashtontechhelp Cheshire has an isolation platform that essentially mimics the SME suspension using o rings instead of springs. You obviously like diy. Build a suspended platform with the decoupled motor poking through the base and the suspended platform or fix it to the base and only poke through the suspended platform…the Rega plinth will take the place of something like the Oracle design’s sub chassis. If you want to make life easy put levelling feet on the base of the platform…3 feet are more stable and require only two of them to effect levelling. See Michael Lim for feet and more. The Rega bearings are plenty good enough stock. If you emulate the Oracle suspension you’ll be miles ahead of many of the RUclips stars mucking about trying to better Rega at their own approach. Imo You were paying for the bearing and motor with the Planars and you’re obviously adventuresome enough to create a suspension similar to the SME table and Oracle using MDF in place of metal and towers. If you wanted to you could laminate the mdf with arborite to maintain a Rega vibe…bad play on words intended. Bon chance!

I have used this several times now, this far the folds have not weakened, that I can see. I am careful how I do this though, ensuring that nothing pinches.

Thought I had replied to this - that's a good solution, I may well try this next time. Thanks!

Very tiny micro switch that. Best to de-case it so you have access to the circuit board and see if you can manipulate it with a pin or something. Make sure you take the batteries out though. Or, just let it run down and plug it in when you want to use it.

It's a great machine. If I were not grinding so fine now, I would have kept it. It's now living a happy life with a friend.

It's not matched, as such, at all. It does have switches that appear to change the characteristics but I can't say that i have heard a great deal of difference when making changes, though it's difficult because I don't have someone to assist whilst i listen. However, the original crossover was non-functional, I thought I would give these a go - they were cheap, no great loss if it does not turn out well. In point of fact, most drivers will cross over in more-or-less the same place. Yes, you can optimise. But these do the job, the sound is good, I'm happy. I don't have the technical equipment to test them properly - but the situation is this: The speakers were broken and low quality. Now they are fixed and sound a LOT better. I'm not painting myself as some kind of expert. I'm just a guy, messing with my gear, having some fun along the way. Sometimes I get it right, sometimes I don't.

Short answer: it isn't. I went back to the original. This series is all about my investigations into what works and what does not. That particular idea did not work.

It's perfectly fine. Sounds great. Drilling the arm is a very common thing to do. Stops it ringing / resonating, as any tube will do, lightens it, does not appreciably reduce the stiffness. Does not look great, there are a couple of scratches where the drill bit slipped but, when mounted they are not visible. The only thing I might like to do is fine litz wire that flexes better. I'm not wild about the heavy pvc jacketing on these.

I mean sure, you're not wrong, I could have done nothing and learned nothing in the process. As it is, now that I'm using the acrylic plinth (see the third video), it sounds waaayyy better.

hardly a useful reply, life is surely about continuous improvement vs just "making do"

This is the after-market twin-belt pulley, both are running at 33 1/3. However, in a later video I ditched this motor and went for the 24v motor, which comes with the regular pulley. I went back to the single belt.

I'm afraid I'm not a repair technician.

The rubber band did not work, but was interesting to try. The brace is something that Rega do on their latest turntables but I agree, I can see problems with it. Moving to acrylic (see video 3) was the best option.

I saw someone had come up with the idea of placing the motor on an acrylic plate with peg supports attaching it to the flat surface which the table sits on. Completely isolating the motor from the plinth except by its belt.

@@glpilpi6209 yes, I have a similar idea in my second or third video in this series.

SRM Tech sell something similar to the rubber band, the call it a Platter Damping Ring, one of my subscribers tried it, but returned it as he says it made no difference.

I can't believe you watched this already - it's only just gone up!

@@ashtontechhelp just came up as I was having a last look at my phone before bed! Nicely done my friend 👌.

i quite agree, although often you can get away with a new cartridge.

Very good mats, I use one on my modified RP3, I also used it on my modified Rp6 till I fitted it with a delrin platter.

Dunno. There is quite a bit of difference between the materials used between those two price points. You would have to use the same cartridge, if you were to do such a test. Having gone down this long journey to look for better audio, I can certainly say that I was not happy with the clarity I was getting and I now am. I'm really enjoying my music now. I think that Rega are a little over-priced for what they are. If you bought the bearing sleeve, the sub-platter, a acrylic platter, the motor, the Azure kit, the arm, the cartridge, you would probably only be spending what they charge for the P3 - but have a much better sound.

Because it sounds good. I have been playing around with my deck for a while, as you will see from my other videos but this is the setup that has finally made me happy. It's really good. All materials have advantages and disadvantages. You may have a prejudice against acrylic, that's up to you - but, as the person actually spending the money, I'm finally happy with my choices.

​@@ashtontechhelpwell said.

i suppose i could have saved some money if I had gone straight to the SRM Azure platform (see third video in the series). It is very much better. But I had fun playing about, so that's okay.

​​@@ashtontechhelpI love the fin of tweeking too!

The good thing is at lrast if you sell the upgrades you'll get some of your money back.

Thanks Mike. I have learned a few things along the way and it's been interesting.

@@ashtontechhelp yes I hope you have fun ... you seem a nice guy my friend. Il look out for more vids from you

It should do. Rega simply attach the ground to the negative terminal rather than directly to the arm, which seems to be a cost saving measure and it's not always successful, as you have found out - or maybe your wire has simply become detached. If you touch an exposed part of your arm with a finger (maybe the base of the arm, underneath?) and the hum drops away then you likely do have a grounding issue. I added the ground wire whilst re-wiring the arm with some silver Cardas cable. You need to save one of the old copper cables and use it as a ground connection. I removed some of the paint near the head shell and attached one of the copper wires with some solder. There's usually enough length to bring this back to your ground point, but you can always join this wire to another if you need it longer. I bought the interconnect box from Analogue Seduction for about £25.

If ot were a " cost saving measure " why do you think the same is on the #4000 REGA P10? And the £12000 naia ...oh and the £32.000.00 NAIAD ?

@@mikemcguinness1304 what’s your explanation for this obviously poor design choice?

@scottkasper6378 I don't have a problem so I can't say it is mate . Honest

@@mikemcguinness1304 all manufacturers look to save costs, regardless of price point. It's about chucking your product or if the door as quickly as possible whilst keeping control of warranty claims. Grounding to the negative terminal is usually effective and saves time and materials.

I do enjoy tinkering and this is a much cheaper route to high quality... If you buy the SRM Tech parts and then get hold of the bearing, subplatter, glass platter (or acrylic if you're feeling fancy), arm and motor, you're still only spending what a new planar 3 costs but at much higher quality.