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Interesting video, Just a thought,perhaps placing the cross over in a case with an amp on each speaker, this may course some miner interference but it reduces all the cables mess. Great speakers & nice work, many thanks.

Very useful video many thanks, I haven’t noticed this problem with my granny charger, but it’s still really us full to know, I’ve also had my charge port replaced a few years ago on my Chevy volt 2013. Thanks for posting.🙏

Just buy a P6.

It's best not to take apart the arm bearing to rewire the arm as you mucking up the BEARing. It's too late for the poster but other Do not do it..

if this is a fiddly task try to rewire sme 3009 S III 😀

Although I'm late to this "party", one thing especially that stands out is that early on, he states that he's done this 3 maybe 4 times before, then at 10m.40s to 10m.45s, he says , with surprise, "ah, just spotted the cartdridge is in fact marked".........DID YOU NOT SEE THAT THE VERY FIRST TIME YOU DID THIS WORK?

Would you buy a used stereo from this man ?

I hope nobody paid for this.... real shitty work (sorry...)

Goldring is the better cartridge i've got for my 1984 Rega 3. I've made some enhacement (subplatter, belt, achromat, 24 v motor) and i love the sound. You enjoy to do these things...but i think it will be better to me to go to a rega 6!

Hello, Could you please provide the specific eBay link you used to purchase the brace plate? I’ve been searching and can’t find it anywhere.

Pili nerden temin ettiniz link var mı

Olá. Interessante! Embora eu, nunca me atreveria, a fazer isso, mesmo com conhecimento. Atualmente tenho o P3 (já é o 4rt rega planar 3 que tenho, embora, os anteriores, não tivessem a cablagem e o elemento que liga o braço, ao eixo do motor para mais rigidez, creio), com a Ania pro MC, mais o Neo TTPsu MK2 e Pre-amp phono Aria MK3. Toca muito bem, estou a pensar no P8. Penso que irá melhorar o som. Saudações de Portugal.

Stretching cling film all the way over the platter will stop it ringing & is way cheaper than buying an inferior acrylic platter.

Rega have spent years developing turntables.Why not just enjoy them upgrades are not upgrades they are bodge jobs don't make sense

Can you send me the link of the wires that you used?

I’ve got one of these and there’s no way I’m going to start buggering about with it. If you don’t like the sound of it, buy a turntable that you do like the sound of.

Butcher job mate

good job

That's not a slight ring, that's a bell mate...

I like the DIY approach! The next step, would seem to be design and build of your own table.

Im looking at my Rega 3 that i bought yesterday and it looks beautiful the glass platter is absolutely stunning no need to change anything but as long as your having fun.

Great video. Much easier to disassemble this shaver compared to series 9 (I have both). What is the original battery model number…Sanyo …? Thanks

Thank god Roy Gandy is still alive. He would turn in his grave, otherwise.

I just bought the last X500 on Decathlon's website. It arrived today. Haven't taken it on the water yet, so I don't know about tracking, but I inflated it in my house to test for leaks, and I packed it for a sense of the capacity. It looks OK. I'll paddle it on flat water tomorrow. I have another inflatable kayak (AdvancedFrame Sport, not drop stitched) and dry bags for camping gear, and the X500 has far more storage than the Sport, plenty for my needs. The Sport is only suitable for flat water. I've paddled it many times and still like it, but I wanted a portable, sit inside kayak suitable for rougher water. The X500 went back in the bag without too much difficulty, but RUclips definitely helped. I've seen videos with the bow and stern on the inside and the outside after the final fold. The inside (as you fold it here) was easier. It seems harder to fold and has more potentially troublesome seams than my Sport, but I've packed the Sport many times. It was tougher at first too. The Sport only has one, low pressure bladder (plus two small bladders on the deck that I don't always inflate), but it takes as long to inflate as the X500, maybe longer. I'm not so careful with the Sport, but I plan to store the X500 out of the bag and to pack it only when I really need to carry it a considerable distance before inflating it. I don't need it in the bag to transport it in my car, and I'd rather fold it gently when possible. One fold is enough with my back seat down. Update: I only noticed on a second look at this video that the guy doesn't fold the kayak completely in half along its length. Most other videos do, but they shouldn't. You want the valves on the top of the kayak to lie flat after the fold, so you want to fold it just below the valves, not at the center of the keel. I also place the unfolded seat between the bow and stern sections where the tips meet in the middle. With the lengthwise fold as indicated in this video, the width of the back of the seat is just the width of the folded kayak, and packing the seat unfolded makes the folded kayak a bit thinner.

I have a Michael Lim Aluminum sub platter and acrylic main platter . Plus a white belt upgrade. I run no mat i prefer that sound.

Don’t bother doing this. Take your Rega arm, or your Rega turntable with the arm intact, to a Rega dealer.

Best investment is a $5 lapel mic from flea bay.

I would say it's more fornica it would make more sense. It doesn't have any movement probably best to glue on top of the original really. Don't worry about with that silly brace take it off, that's not going to achieve anything probably make it worse! not the right material, if you want to make one just glue them together about 4 millimeter thick that would be a lot better than that steel brace. Then glue it to the table and what they do in the factory drill it all the way through the whole table not this silly little holes, just 2 inch Circular cutter. You could do that for the motor as well make a little short one inch hole and maybe then two half an inch holes next to them behind don't have it touching the main bearing tho and glue it down with a artificial bitumen roof repair water-based you can get it from Wickes grey 5l tin. i would be surprised if the inner platter engineering plastic is not round I mean you could have it checked and skimmed but there's no reason why it shouldn't be the same as a aluminium platter. if you're having this problem you want to get yourself a shelf if it's bouncing around, but best feet is packs of jelly. If you got the money get yourself a Thorens tp92 it's a fantastic arm and is the right way to make an arm with bearing below pivot, and I've seen them for 900£ they do for, a uni pivot tp82 for five hundred might be good choice as well can't really say on that, much better than the Rega the Rega is just a moth arm design so go for a Higher spec moth 4, probably around 500£ if you want to stick with that type of design. Another thing you might like to try is to glue a felt or cork matte underneath the platter give yourself about five millimeter gap from the motor It will deden it down even more

Thanks to watching your video i managed the replacement without too much headache. I was really afraid to destroy the device. Thank you for sharing!

Hi there Where did you get the plinth It looks amazing Thanks Tim

Take the cartrige off - you know it makes sense. Take a photo of the alignment first.

can you tell the height of the motor brackets ? theyre plastic ?you change the original rubber foot of the sassi ?

Wall mount for the win…decoupled motor…see Cheshire Audio.

Your resin sub platter could use a clean …rubber tracks o the rim.

Great video. One year later, how healhy is the X500 please ? No puncture or fragility on the folding areas of the pvc skin ? Thank's a lot

You can hook the new wire up to the old and pull in the new wires with the old, like any common electrician would. RCA connectors are not great for carts, as the "shield" carries half of the balanced signal, better use 5-pin DIN or XLR, and have a separate shield for the two balanced signals. The balanced pairs could be twisted for better hum rejection.

Hi I have same shaver. Batteries seem ok by my on-off button stuck in so it had to run down till the batteries were flat. I gently tapped the unit on the sides to try and make the switch pop out but would not. Any ideas please

Wow, you got great mileage out of the bodum…!

How is the new crossover matched to the new drivers? Even the old crossover may not work with the new drivers if they have different characteristics.

So you upgraded to a sub platter which looks nice but doesn't spin as well as the original Rega sub-platter. So how is that an upgrade?

That tonearm.....RIP.......my condolences!

This is like the storey of Triggers long use broom repairs. I think someone has too much time on their gands. My old rega 3 with the original S shaped arm still works and sounds great without all these unnecessary bodges. A capacitor change is all that is required.

Didn't know there was a twin-belt pulley. We live and learn. Thanks for reply and good listening!

If the two belts are both driving at 33 speed this is good. However if one belt is on the 33 speed and the other on the 45 speed, then I would assume they would be "fighting against" each other and the RPM would be out. Can check the platter speed with an App called RPM on the iPhone. Apologies if you have thought all this through.

What a great mod .

Hello sir The trimmer does not work anymore Any advice on how to fix it?

Interesting , never thought of putting a rubber band round the platter . I still can't see how using a bracing system is good though , to my mind you are transferring any vibration from the platter support bearing through a metal brace to the pick up arm . But hey maybe I have it all wrong there.

I have a GrooveTracer sub platter and it works beautifully.

Very interesting, good for you. Glad to hear it was worth doing and you enjoy them. Jim🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🙂