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@@MjV-jd2lo thanks! Accuracy systems makes wooden handguards like what came on the oldest mini 14s and is very reminiscent of m1 carbines (which I am also very fond of). Cleans up the lines a lot

This video is from a few years ago when those were new and the guy who owned it was moving pretty good!

@@izs1991 I have a 22 model and they are GREAT on the track! Everyone is surprised it's a Hyundai lol

@@simoncrawford7669 everyone I’ve talked to with one says that got a lot right. I used to track a focus st as well but the open diff and weak brakes were kind of a killer.

@@izs1991 yeah the e-LSD and big brakes (not brembos, but they feel kinda like it) make it handle so well!!! I'm getting my ECU flashed next month and hoping I can dyno about 350 hp with mods

Too late

So confused by this comment. This a dope vid.

I feel like the double action pull isn’t as bad in the later models with thinner grips. Unless you have some kind of monster hands which mine are not the trigger is barely reachable in double action

@@izs1991 I had one from the 1950s lol it is super stiff but I guess men were just tougher back then.

The Navy Colt .44 was the magnum of their time 1850s circa.

​@@johnpeek827raczej Colt Walker ważący 2,3 kg.

I’m not sure it would cycle these reliably with a fresh recoil spring. It’s that close.

The reason this rifle functions with CB shorts is the floating chamber. Colt used this with the 1911 Ace conversion.

⁠​⁠@@abwgtxI know about that. I actually had to rebuild the entire gun because the parts were all mangled. I’m not sure it was intended to run CBs. Normal Shorts still have a powder charge and run 300-400fps faster than CBs do. The bolt barely comes back far enough and with enough force to cycle the action.

Unfortunately not. Just received car back from second dealer and on its 4th or 5th attempt to fix and they claimed the BCM connector was ever so slightly loose and that ‘fixed it’ after 6 hours of diag time but the problem was still there when I picked it up. Dealer doesn’t want to hear about it because ford is reimbursing the ‘repair’ and now I have to try and see if they will still send an engineer.

Ended up buying a brand new chassis electrical harness and installed it today. Will report back if the problem is fixed. Did basic continuity tests on the alternator wires and they seemed to go open circuit just moving the wires around so i may be onto something. Swapping the harness is not a fun time though. Also have a new ‘circuit breaker’ on the way which connects the battery, alternator, and power steering positive feeds to the junction box so I’ll install that once it arrives. Hopefully narrowing down the issues. I’ll keep you posted.

Yea bro thank you

@@victormelchor2203 the harness was the fix. Wc96787 is the ford part number. If you install this yourself be very gentle with it as you route it because twisting it and pulling on it will cause issues because of how weak the wiring is that ford used in conjunction with having almost no slack.