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It had its own remote. They make kits now that bolt on a lot easier.

I feel stupid

www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=41488

This is the site I used

Thank you so much, I have been out in the cold for 3 hrs trying to figure this all out

@jeffcrowell1975 ok after going through all this and triple checking things, it's still won't work. The only thing I got working is the door unlock/ lock. Is there a way you can make a quick video of what wires go where?

Yes. I did this for a friend. Get it mounted to the door and aligned with the latch as straight as you can get it. It works cleaner and less mess. I didn't get a video of it but it really works better.

Great, thanks. Seems like a good way to save 300 bucks. Not a fan of cutting panels or piggybacking cables. Appreciate you responding.

Fyi ....The heater turns on

Can you check the code and tell me what it says. My guess it one of the power wires is hooked up incorrectly.

I'm going off memory on this. This was done with a relay. The Avital didn't have an secondary accessory connection. I made a jumper off the accessory. You can google how to add another accessory line with a relay. I haven't had this truck since 2016 so I need some information to help you. I think when you remote start none of the climate controls work. If that is the case I will look it up and see what I would have attached it to in order to send power to it. Let me know if I'm right and i'll help you from there.

Which one are you talking about? Is this the doors or something else?

Which one? Activation wire? On the nine (9) wire harness there is a white & blue stripe wire. It is the ACTIVATION wire for the AVITAL 4003. I don't need door locks or horn. Also, how do you put factory remote/fob into auxiliary mode....? Thx Also, I just realized you are the guy who made the video. Thanks for your time. I used commando car alarms cheat sheet and have looked at bulldogs they are same, I reversed the pink and white vs pink... per your instructions. I have been trying to use purple/green stripe in driver kick panel to pulse white/blue stripe activation wire 9 pin harness and hitting lock 3 times. But then realized I may need tach wire hooked up...?

@@jbknowles1812 Sorry it's been awhile since I did this and had to go look at the instructions. This is a - ground wire. This can be grounded with the other ground wires. Its purpose is to change how many times you click the start button to activate remote start. By default it is set to 1 click. I would change this to 2 clicks. I was setting mine off by bumping my keys in my pocket. Hope this helps.

I have now sold the Jeep but they worked perfect. There is another system out there now that is designed to work better then what I had to do. I installed this on my brother-inlaws jeep about a year ago and it was so much faster and cleaner. Here is a link to this www.a1electric.com/jeep-jklocks.htm.

If I could have done it all over again I would have not attached to the wire. The door latch has the trigger built into it and gives you a stronger point of contact to lock and unlock. If you don't want to get the kit I sent you then you can take a look at how it is designed and mimic it. It's less time to install and better results.

I would have to look up the colors but the brake connects to the connector that is attached to the brake pedal.

hau5er I did trim I believe some of the plastic in the door panel. Just a small notch were it might make contact. I know I trimmed the inside panels. I did find out later it was better to get closer to the lock itself. That way you don’t have to splice the cable. This is how the OEM locks and unlocks. Of course I found that out after I did this.

@@jeffcrowell1975 Thank you. That helps.

Shaun Wolvin Missouri weather but born in Minnesota.

Blake Nelson let me take a look at that setup and I’ll get back to you. Off the top of my head I’m thinking it’s the neural safety ground. Which tells the starter the car is in park and can be started. I have some time this morning I’ll look at how that system works and see if I can figure it out.

Jeff Crowell just wanted to let you know I got it figured out. In case anyone ever asks again I had to hook up the activation input wire (3 negative pulses) to the yellow wire that comes off the door lock motor inside the door panel. This wire pulses a negative signal before it feeds into the relays that power the door locks.

Blake Nelson did you use the 820 ohm resistor in-line with the negative trigger input (door lock) wire on the Stellar RS1050? I’m about to install the same unit in my 2005 Ram 1500. Also, did you have to add another relay for the ACC wire so your A/C compressor would kick on with the remote start as Jeff mentioned having to add? Or did you just hook up the acc #2 to the pink/yellow on the ignition harness and the Stellar built in relays handled it?

Jeff Crowell I’m stumped trying to install the Stellar RS1050 in my 05 Ram. Can you pull up the wiring diagram and tell me if I need relays to make the door lock signal work? f01.justanswer.com/pw5j15nV/+car+starter+rs+1050.pdf I’m not seeing a yellow wire to the door lock like Blake mentions. I have the violet/dark green and can see the pulses when I hit the door lock switch on the driver’s door, but not when I use the lock button on the keyless remote. Either way this isn’t triggering the remote start to start the truck? I have the 820 ohm resistor in-line on my pink negative trigger input wire to the remote starter. I’m struggling to find a wiring diagram for the keyless entry to see if I need that signal instead?

Greatnate30447 EVO makes some plug n play remote starters. Not sure if they have one for that year. They will come programmed to work with factory key fobs.

Adrian Rodriguez flowmaster cat back.

Patrick I’m the same way. They do have kits that make this so much easier. I thought I could do the manual locks and windows. Nope. I added both because I couldn’t stand it. Look for the kits that make this so much easier.

RODOLFO MARTINEZ this was on the12volt.com The 2001 is different than the 2000. Here is the diagram: | ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION | | 12V|pnk/blk & RED / lt blu|+ |ignition harness | | STARTER|yellow |+ |ignition harness | | IGNITION|blue |+ |ignition harness | | SECOND IGNITION|GREEN/ red (18 ga)|+ |ignition harness | | ACCESSORY|BLACK/ orange |+ |ignition harness | | SECOND ACCESSORY|green |+ |ignition harness | | POWER LOCK|WHITE/ green |*1 |conn. 2, pin 10 @ CTM *2 | | POWER UNLOCK|same wire | | | | LOCK MOTOR|ORANGE / black | |conn. 2, pin 4 @ CTM *2 | | UNLOCK MOTOR|blue | |conn. 2, pin 6 @ CTM *2 | | DISARM DEFEAT|pink/black | |conn. 2, pin 5 @ CTM *2 | | PARKING LIGHTS +|BLACK / YELLOW | |headlight switch | | PARKING LIGHTS -|RED / yellow | |conn. 1, pin 4 @ CTM *2 | | HEADLIGHTS|lt. GREEN/ orange |- |headlight switch | | DOOR TRIGGER|*3 |- |CTM *2 | | DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | | | TRUNK/HATCH PIN|tan/black |- |conn. 2, pin 7 @ CTM *2 | | FCTRY ALARM ARM|lt. GREEN/ orange |*4 |conn. 2, pin 14 @ CTM *2 | |FCTRY ALRM DISARM|same wire | | | | TACHOMETER|*5 | |ignition coil | | SPEED SENSE|WHITE/ orange or blue| |conn. 2, pin 27 @ PCM *6 | | BRAKE WIRE|WHITE/ tan |+ |brake pedal switch | | HORN TRIGGER|BLACK/ red |- |steering column or CTM *2 | | WIPERS|purple(L), RED / gry(H|+ |steering column | | LF WINDOW UP/DN|lt. blue - white |A |driver window switch | | RF WINDOW UP/DN|brn/wht - pur/wht |A |driver kick panel | | LR WINDOW UP/DN|blu/wht - RED / blk |A |driver kick panel | | RR WINDOW UP/DN|gry/blk - grn/wht |A |driver kick panel | | RADIO 12V|pink |+ |radio | | RADIO GROUND|black |- |radio | | RADIO SWITCH|RED / white |+ |radio | | RADIO ILLUMINATE|white |+ |radio | | LF SPEAKER|lt grn/pu-lt grn/grn| |radio | | RF SPEAKER|lt blu/pu-lt blu/blk| |radio | | LR SPEAKER|wht/red - wht/blk | |radio | | RR SPEAKER|tan/pur - tan/blk | |radio | Notes: NOTE: Chrysler vehicles that use a gray ignition key have an immobilizer system that needs to be bypassed when remote starting. *1 Lock is negative trigger thru a 820 ohm resistor. Unlock is negative trigger thru a 330 ohm resistor. MUST use relays. *2 The Central Timer Module is in the driver kick panel. *3 The driver door trigger is tan in connector 2, pin 15. The passenger door trigger (and rears) is tan/red in connector 2, pin 13. Use both and diode isolate each. See directfax document #1076 for wiring information. *4 Arm is negative trigger thru a 644 ohm resistor. Disarm is negative trigger thru a 1565 ohm resistor. MUST use relays. This wire will also lock the doors, and it will unlock with a double pulse. *5 On the 5.9L models use BLACK/ gray at the ignition coil. The 4.7L models have an ignition coil for each cylinder, use the wires that is NOT GREEN/ orange at one of the coils. *6 The Powertrain Control Module is on the passenger fender.

Armando Campos you have to buy another 5 wire door lock aka master door lock. It’s like $10. You will wire it up to the same wires the master is on the driver side door.

Jeff Crowell do you know the name of it? Or link?

Christopher Buckler it’s been awhile since I did this. I had to cut about 1 to 1 1/2 inches of the plastic cover then snip the little wires. I think after that I took a flat piece of metal and folded it around the wire. The little bracket that the kit came with kept slipping on me. If it was me doing it now I would put a the bracket on there and use something like JB weld to hold it in place. I found out after I did this there is a lever on the door lock and they make a kit that use them instead. It cost something like $200. This is all going on memory so it could have changed by now.

Anthony R LMAO!!! I’m horrible at that. I do it so much that I don’t even hear it. I literally laughed out load at that comment. When you get an accurate count let me know.

Federico Tunesi I put the module right under the steering wheel. I ran the power on the driver side. The power door locks don’t need a dedicated power to the battery. You can use a constant power. On the driver side you can go through the firewall. There is 2 spots that have rubber grommets you can punch a hole in.

texan241 make sure the 2nd yellow ignition is connected.

Jeff Crowell both ignition wires are hooked up and have power. I’ve tried switching switching multiple wires but no luck. I guess as long as it starts and the abs light turns off once the key is in I’ll leave it. Thanks for the help.

What is the model of the remote starter do you have. I think the remote starter might only have a setup for 1 ignition wire. You might need to change a setting on starter to make that wire live, or you might need to add a relay to make a secondary ignition wire. You will have to do this to the A/C if you want to use the starter in the summer.

Jeff Crowell I didn’t change any of the jumper settings. Compustar cm7200 Wires I have hooked up Remote starter-truck CN1 12v Red-red 12v Red/white-red (separate from first) Parking light Green/white-white/green Accessory White-blue, I also added a relay from the module to the smaller gauge pink/yellow Ignition 1 Green-pink/white Ignition 2 Blue-pink/light green Starter Yellow-yellow Ground Black/bolt near obd2 plug

Ok I’m out drinking tonight so tomorrow I’m not doing much at work. I look up the starter and see if I can find the solution to your problem.

James Horrocks at the time I got them from Radio Shack but they are no longer around. You can find an assortment pack on amazon.

www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwi808DEqa3fAhWQuMAKHceVCwEYABAZGgJpbQ&sig=AOD64_3sBEi-dZ9tASwoD-zqSqPWeIUJtw&ctype=5&q=&ved=2ahUKEwi8trjEqa3fAhVOG6wKHbAiC28Qwg96BAgUECo&adurl=

Thanks jeff. I wont have issue with wattage ratings?

James Horrocks nope. If you have a tester you can attach it to the line and hit the lock and it will tell you what resistor you will need to lock. Then do the same to unlock. If you don’t have a tester you can start off with the ones I said and play around with higher and lower resistors. You will find one that works perfectly every time.

Shawn Downs what wire color is it? I’ll look it up it’s been awhile since I did this. Also what all do you have done so far?

Jeff Crowell are you on face book so I can direct message you?

I have hooked up all main ignition the wires like you show. But there are grounds on the other wire clusters like black to ground and brake wire and tach wire that are very unclear in the instructions. Also do I need to some how program the module to learn my truck?

Shawn Downs facebook.com/profile.php?id=1290854657

Shawn Downs the tech wire doesn’t need to be hooked up. The neutral safety switch does need to be grounded. So I hooked that into my main ground wire.

John Fox I used a wire snip. Cut the little wires on the outside. You don’t need to do it that way. On the you have a lever. You want to attach it to it. It works better that way.

Arafet Kanso yes you can get them with power locks and windows. I say spend the money and get it.

depends on what box you added. most have 2 extra wires on them to control a switch. You would just connect into those 2 wires. I have another video when I added aftermarket locks to me Jeep. I think I explain it in there. I added a remote starter to it later on and just connected the door locks from the remote starter to the door actuator switch. Worked perfect.

Jeff Crowell ok thank you so much and would i still need resistors still or that only for stock lcoks

RODOLFO MARTINEZ I haven’t. Most of the new remote starters are plug and play.

No. You only need to find a 12 volt power and ground to make this work. I ran a power wire straight from the battery. There is a site out there now that makes these kits that with make the install easier. No cutting into the wire or anything. Last I seen it was about $150 for the whole kit.

@@jeffcrowell1975 hey. Any chance you can provide that link or message me it? Thanks!

www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCJJSVW/ref=dp_prsubs_1

island biker I ended up changing all the plugs when I installed power windows.

Can you post the link?

What's the link to the Amazon plug pins?

Here is a video that explains this how to do this. Because the Avital needs another Acc wire to power the A/C you need to piggy back off the main ACC wire from the Avital. You do this with a relay. What this does is when you have the A/C on in the summer you can remote start the truck and the A/C will turn on. If you try it now you will notice the A/C doesn't turn on. In the Video he is showing how to wire up a secondary Ignition wire. You are doing the same thing except on the ACC wire. If you have any questions on this just ask and I'll try to answer them the best I can. ruclips.net/video/vLhHYhzUFgk/видео.html

Leo Mariscal www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

You will find the wiring specs for 03. I think 03 to 05 are the same but not sure.

Glad to hear that.

Chuck Close because I lent my tester to a buddy and didn't see it again for 6 months. So I was doing this blind. The reason I did this video is to help people that don't understand ohms resistors. But want to do this on their own. Rule in my house now is only lend out tools that you have a back up of.

Nice job on the video Jeff..taking the time to help others shows a lot of character,,unlike others who judge and ask stupid questions. Like I always say...I fix a lot of things but I can't fix stupid

Thanks

CHARGERKAWMAN on your dodge make sure the Avital jumper in on Neg. Then in this link it shows you need a 330 ohm resistor. diagrams.marktoonen.nl/images/XLarge_2003-DODGE-RAM-PARKINGLIGHT-WIRE.jpg

Jeff Crowell,thanks

CHARGERKAWMAN Hey pal you have to use a small jumper cube that should have come with your remote starter. It's the size of a tic tac.

Thanks,that was the problem

Everything is perfect now,lights and horn working. Thanks alot

rudy martinez sorry I was in China for 2 weeks for work. The watts don't matter just the ohms. It because you use 1 wire for both lock and unlock. Look for an assortment pack. That way you can try different ones.

Jeff Crowell ok thank you...i tried installing atleast only the remote start this weekend but after i wired the wires for the remote start with out the locking and unlocking harnes and the truck never turned on with the remote start i dont know if its cuz i wired something wrong or what

Jeff Crowell its a ram 02 4.7 4x4

rudy martinez make sure you have the shift lockout wire grounded.

Jeff Crowell ok thank you very much will check that out tomorrow i really appreciate it

Keto Outdoor Adventures as for the blower I had to hook a relay to the accessory wire to create a 2nd accessory wire. Worked like a jumper. The ram had 2 accessory wires. The 2nd one was for the blower and A/C. So the ohms resistors I had to adjust them both up and down. I hooked different resistors on wire and hit lock and unlock to see if I could get it to do anything. This is how I found the different resistors that I needed. If you have a ohms meter you can test it on the line and hit lock or unlock and it will give a reading.

Thanks Jeff, I'll give it a try!

I was able to get the blower working by doing a reverse polarity with a relay and tapped the negative instead. For the lock/unlock, do you have a power seat? I might have to do relays for that as well since I don't have power seats.

Lost me on the power seats. I did have driver side power but not sure how that ties into a remote starter. Can you explain?

Jeff Crowell in the wiring diagram it said you can only tie into the power Lock/unlock wire if you have a power seat. Your vehicle is equipped with relays so using resistors by themselves will work. I got my power locks to work, I did need to add relays to trigger those as well.

bimbo948 it's not that bad. They now have a kit for 230$ that is setup to use factory bolt holes. This was a couple days of trial by error. So far it has worked flawlessly. Get ready to start power windows with oem stuff. About $500 total.

luke williams did you have power before? Meaning was this fully hooked up then quit working?

Jeff Crowell I hooked it up just as yours is but it never powered anything. So no it was fully hooked up just no power.

Ok give me a sec to look this up It's been a few years now since I did this.

Take your time, I'm just glad someone with a dodge actually has the same system to help out.

Ok this will be a little difficult without seeing it. So no power I would give me a few options to look at. First thing the 2 red wires on the heavy gauge harness go together. I would check this because they have fuses on them. Check to see if they are blown. Next make sure you have a good ground. These 2 spots would be my main points to start with.

No you can use it for everything. You just have to wire into the door lock and unlock wire. You will need ohms resisters.

Jeff Crowell,thanks waiting on resistors now

did you ever got the alarm installed on ur truck?

I never installed one when I had the truck.