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It's still going strong man. The car's up for sale right now and it's done well.

I would recommend staying away from doing the muffler and resonator delete. My honest advice is to swap the resonator for a Vibrant bottle resonator, super small, but gives it a better sound. And potentially changing the mufflers as well to something from Vibrant. Straight pipe just doesn’t sound good, and it gets old, realllllly quick. Trust me, I know 🥲

@@tuneda35 Ohh ok, then ill do a resonator change.

Nice I did it I just done 150k miles transmission change and dead compressor was only problems.

There's a key difference between your older Maxima and this one. The transmission being that key factor. Torque is what kills these transmissions, and I for one have already blown one so I prefer not to do that to a new one. If I were to have 6mt swapped it, there would be a big difference as well, just keep in mind this is on a stock CVT transmission.

Youre gonna spend more money on the swap than just selling it and buying a manual 3.5 coupe

@@cheeko_914 I ended up selling it and getting a 9th civic si

So the 290 that is advertised is an exaggerated number that was demonstrated on just the motor, not connected to the transmission or being limited by a computer. Once the motor is connected to the CVT and connected to the ECU, it limits the output of the motor in order to protect the CVT. So realistically, and this has been tested by others, you drive on only aorund 230ish hp, somewhere around that mark. So all in all, I gained quite a bit, but a majority of it was just allowing the motor freedom within it's operating parameters. Hope that answers the question. No I didn't gain only 6 hp, the HP readings that you're seeing on the chart are directly to the wheels, so with the powertrain loss, I would have made roughly 320-340 to the motor, so if you're going off base benchmarks from the advertised "290 HP", you would see an increase in roughly 50 HP with intake, exhaust and tune

@@tuneda35 awesome explanation. After reading your comment, that is pretty much common sense and i was being an idiot haha. But i love this set up and will be following. Did you up grade injectors or fuel pump?

@@jeremygrab7548 I did not upgrade either of those. If I wanted to run e85, I would’ve had to, but since I just wanted a decent little street car I didn’t want to go all out. Just enough to break and hold a record, and now it’s time for just a fun daily

Headers were roughly $4-500, 3.5" intake was $475ish, y-pipe was I believe $335, and the 3" single exit was around $600. The tuning was $975 I do believe. So at a rough estimate, it would cost somewhere in the ballpark of $3,000 USD to do similar performance mods. Coilovers were $1,150, and I believe that's a majority of everything.

The CVT will "handle" the power decently if you don't always abuse it, and if you up the maintenance. Adding a transmission cooler would help as well, since heat is the #1 killer of these transmission styles.

Still runnin strong! Havent had an opportunity to get footage or anything for an update, but I can make an update video soon!

@@tuneda35 please do! And glad to hear shes strong still👍🏽

Brooo how did it go?

Yes how did it go?

@@daspams7371 haven't done it yet sadly, ima wait for it to crap out

@@vam6677 dang I wanna know because I have a 2010 3.5sr Altima and I want to know if I can do the same.

Thank you! Definitely something not a lot of people think to do to a Maxima.

That "stupid can", is a muffler. If that wasn't in place it would have been obnoxiously loud. The bangs and pops are part of the tune. It is a fuel map, and it fluctuates dependent on engine variables.

I still own the car, and if you come up with an attractive price, I just might.

I still own it :)

To an extent. If you remove too much you start doing damage to the CVT, so there’s a setting that limits how far it pushes the transmission and at first I turned it off, but when I re-tuned I put it back on and the car doesn’t run into any issues anymore.

And that power curve is horrible for a VQ. You can tune these things to be much flatter than that FYI

With the stock transmission, that’s about as good as I’m going to get. And I wasn’t paying for the anti-lag, that was just an added feature. No cats and a big ‘ole intake meant time for a tune, or it would be time for a new motor soon. Can’t see why the latter choice would make more sense.

@@kennethpowers8995 Also the power curve is going to look terrible because of the transmission. Due to it being a CVT, it’s always varying the ratio, so it’s never going to be a 1:1 unless I did the 6mt swap, and unless someone wants to sponsor me 5k for parts, this is as good as it’s going to get. If you have any more questions, comments or concerns feel free to ask below and I can help you understand if there’s anything you’re missing.

It depends on the build man, every car has their own levels, but you can also build the motors with better internals to reach higher levels. The ‘09-‘14 Maxima can “safely” handle 250ish, I maxed out at just over 300, but the car would also overheat and refuse to move after a pull. So it all depends man. Hope that helps

Not yet, I have one just haven't installed it yet.

@@tuneda35 i have a intake and a ypipe u tgink ut worth to tune it?

Yes it does, 4 various maps of your choice, then the 5th is a kill switch.

@@tuneda35 thank you for the info! I’m tuning with him soon just had that in mind wanted to make sure it did

@@joseolvera648 Yeah no problem! Hope everything works out and you enjoy getting tuned!

So there’s a little bit of bad news that comes with you having a newer car from Nissan. The newer Nissans, past 2014, UpRev haven’t been able to crack the ECUs, so there is no tuning support. But what you can do instead is try a flame kit. That might give you what you’re looking for, but understand that having fire in your exhaust ruins a lot of stuff and is very dangerous for the engine

@@tuneda35 at least i want my to pop

@@MB-ln3sh You're going to run into more issues than it's worth, at a higher risk, since there is no tuning support. Anything massive you do to the intake or exhaust is going to come at a heavy price, but you're going to have to look into forums and groups to be able to find any information. I only know so much.

The ECU hasn’t been cracked by any tuning company. The last year they did was the 2014, anything past that is not supported.

Uh I am not sure on that one chief, might check with UpRev on that one

It be like that, but it’s just for fun. So no worries

I would have no clue, we didn't have a meter hooked up. This is Texas, there is no decibel limit, at least to my knowledge...

@@tuneda35 In California so everything is illegal, and trying to replicate this myself, have a 2014 S model. No worries though, thanks bro.

@@maximtchekan9250 Yeah trying to replicate my build in California would be illegal. In Texas, in my county, you're not required to test emissions, so I'm running headers and a big intake, which I wouldn't think is CARB legal, but you never know. So the most I would recommend, is just something CARB legal as an intake, and then something that is within the DB range as a catback, seeing as you can't modify your emissions devices.

@@tuneda35 Yea the headers are legal and the Y pipe as long as it passes smog which must be CARB legal. I’m only trying to achieve a Deep Sound unlike the raspy annoying noises. The Greddy is awesome but don’t feel like getting pulled over with that exhaust so might go with a single magnaflow muffler.

@@maximtchekan9250 Sorry boss, I was just going through comments again and saw that I left you open like that. If you're wanting a deeper sound, try looking into Motordyne. They have a "dual-exit" that turns the stock sound pretty deep and gives it a nice little rumble. I know there are a few videos on RUclips with it on, but if you're curious as to how the Motordyne sounded with headers and a y-pipe, check my Instagram @lonestar_a35 I have a few clips of my Greddy as well as the Motordyne. I swapped the Greddy for a little quieter setup, and will post some more stuff on there again soon, but college is starting back up so my schedule is pretty busy. But definitely check into Motordyne and check my Instagram if you have any more questions!

Thanks! The silver has some cool color tones that you can blend into it and make it a seamless color transition build, white you're limited unless you want to stand out but I appreciate it! The white never grows old! Even when dirty ;)

Not that I know of. My first CVT grenaded, and this is a reman CVT I have currently.

@@tuneda35 okay cool thanks for the update

@@bmanj5435 Yeah no problem

😂😂 Thanks

From others who have dynoed stock in comparison to tuned, there has been a general concensus the car runs around 220ish from factory. Unsure of whether that's just factory tune spec, or just safely limitations placed so that we don't grenade the CVT.

@@tuneda35 damn so why they made it 290 to crank that’s a bluff smh

@@vonstrong92 To attract people who look at buying cars based off specs alone. And also most of the time it’s to the crank, what they advertise, but what they put to the ground is completely different. Especially when you add limitations to acceleration, and other modules the cars controlled by.

Just a local exhaust shop!

@@tuneda35 how much did they charge?

@@DeoxK I think it was like mid-300s??? But I don't remember. Somewhere around that range

@@tuneda35 do you remember the name of it? Unless it's not in Houston

@@DeoxK It's Randy's Muffler in Hearne, but if you're in Houston I can do you one better and you can come pick up my old single exit

I did have O2 sensor codes, but once you go through the tuning process, you can have your tuner disable certain codes. So my rear O2 sensors were disabled in the aspect of eventually adding an A/F gauge, but they can remove certain ones from appearing. If that answers your question!

@@tuneda35 you think a local mechanic can disable the sensors or do you need to hit a tune shop

@@konradhadlaw7197 I mean you can get o2 defoulers, but that's for if you're getting an inconsistent heat reading. If you're getting a bad electrical reading, then maybe replace the o2 sensors. But it would have to be done at a tune shop after you pay for the tune. After a quick search, it looks like if you have the P0037, best bet would be to replace the o2 sensors, they might be malfunctioning.

I know I know! This past semester I’ve been a little too busy to focus on the car but this summer I’ll be able to put more focus onto the car! There are a few changes coming, so be ready! I’ll try to find some more stuff to upload as the weeks go on! Thank you!

The car comes close to 220ish from the factory to the wheels, so I added roughly 80ish to the wheels. Plenty to have fun with, but wouldn't suggest pushing that much unless you're ready to trash the transmission. I'd say safely push 250, and all is good.

Homie, as college keeps getting busier and busier I'll try to squeeze in a few. With no professional camera setup, good quality video can be a little tough mixed with a ever so tight schedule but I'll work on it!

That was a 3” Greddy single exit I had fabbed for me, at the time. I now have a Motordyne, which is for sale.

I bought them off eBay, but I do believe they are completely out.

What’s the name of the seller because I can’t can’t them anywhere . What’s the name is the headers .

@@E34boyz I just told you that they’re sold out my guy. They probably won’t continue manufacturing them, especially with the EPA doing their antics right now. You’d have to have custom headers made by a local fab shop.

@@tuneda35 okay thanks man by bad I appreciate it .

@@E34boyz You’re good homie, good luck on finding a fab shop to make you some if you’re serious!