Видео

@@Praveen_opentalk I use DaVinci Resolve.

@@RodrigoMerling I’ll check it once I turn my PC on again.

@@RodrigoMerling The firmware name at the Asus page for the ROG Swift PG32UQR is… [ASUS_PG32U_WHQL_Driver] It weights 9.84 KB and it was released in 2022/07/04. When I press the joystick like button and take a look at System Setup Information it says that my firmware version is V011.

@@WarlordDestroyer Thank you very much, I will take a look.

@@RodrigoMerling It seems it’s the very same firmware for the model that ends in Q. There’s only a single firmware. Asus Aura Sync will point out. It’s tricky, but once the software tells you the path you just install it. There wasn’t any noticeable change or data sheet after it’s done anyways.

@@ipatek8292 No problems at all since I assembled the PC. Performance and response is just fine. But the Gigabyte Control Center App is a total piece of 💩. Some people have claimed their LCD panel has gone crazy with the latest firmwares. Had seen the particle and blur effects of some texts getting messed up. They recently launched a new firmware, but not sure what it did to the LCD specifically. I’d suggest you to stay with LCD firmware that comes from factory.

@@WarlordDestroyer thanks, so from the hardware perspective is good. I will probably still get this because it’s literally the cheapest 4090s currently available in my country, in worst case I will just not use the RGB kekw

It only says it reads SD or CFexpress Type B cards. I searched in the product’s official site and there’s no word of compatibility. Probably it won’t work, I think. You’ll need to try the Sony XQD reader that does accept CFexpress Type B & XQD cards, or the Atech Flash Technology one.

Mine just had those silver tapes around the camera's body cover and the lens bubble wrap.

@@NoName-kp6nh I really wouldn’t know if there’s a significant performance difference that’d make say the Xtreme version is better. Haven’t found serious articles that claim the Xtreme as the victor.

I was taking a look at the digital manual “2.3 Detaching the arm/stand (for VESA wall mount)” and there it says M4 0.7 with a length of 10mm. But those look more like 15mm which confuses me. Sadly I don’t have the exact dimensions of those standoffs.

@@WarlordDestroyer 10mm is the length of the screw that goes into the standoff, to me they look more like 32mm at least

@@Comunposting Not sure. At first I thought they’d have different stats. But they all share the same health points. I even had a third Titan, but it had the same size as the second, I wanted it to be shorter. 🙂‍↕️

@@UserFriendly01a Beta is already over. It was from June 12th to 14th.

It's so people know it's the beta and not a release, people who bought the premium prepurchase had access to it without any kind of non-disclosure agreement.

Maybe you need a proper HDMI 2.0 or 1.4 cable to be able to transmit the 4K signal. It’s the only thing that I’m guessing. Sometimes you need to enable and disable the SDI/HDMI mode so the camera recognizes it. Check the Red Camera Menu and at tab 8 go to Display Mode, then choose the one with the camera + monitor.

@@WarlordDestroyerI changed the setting to HDMI/MONITOR and bought 4k cable. It still does not output 4K signal.

Because the adapters are part of the disaster formula. The adapters don’t fully support the 600W needed to efficiently power these GPUs. While the single 12VHPWR cable and connection does the job. User error of not fully connecting their cables all the way through, and bending the cable too much to fit it in their cases, that’s the reason some people are having their 40 Series GPUs burnt. My PSU is a Seasonic Vertex with its single 12VHPWR port and cable. I’ve been using my PC almost every day and haven’t had a single problem to date. Not to mention Seasonic isn’t a third party PSU brand, it’s THE brand that fabricates PSU components for others brands. Whatever you do, be sure you fully connect your cables well now that you’ll be needing to connect more than a single port.

@@WarlordDestroyer 3090 Ti Suprim X draws close 500W and i’ve not had a single problem for 2 years using the included vga adapter. Granted the 4090 comes with a 4 adapter but id be more worried about using a third party cable (if not using a psu that cames with a 12vhpwr cable) Best just make sure the cables are connected properly again and are not twisted.

@@guest21984 The thing is, these new GPU's are more power demanding. Those adapters that come with the 40 Series are more like an option meanwhile the 12VHPWR cables and PCIe 5.0 / ATX 3.0 PSUs were broadly available. If I'm not wrong in March of this year Seasonic launched a newly designed 12VHPWR cable. "Seasonic 600W 12V-2X6 GPU power cable upgrade" that supposedly have a better construction than the first version and highly prevents meltdowns. I'm kind of tempted to get one as it's compatible with my PSU model.

Todas las RTX 4090 comparten un desempeño semejante. Sería difícil decir cuál es la mejor. Una vez pensé que los mejores modelos de las RTX 4090 eran las que vienen con la refrigeración incluida. El asunto es que todas tienen en promedio una velocidad de 2500 MHz, aquello que hace la ejecución de procesos más rápidos. He leído varias veces que la ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 4090 OC Edition tienen un Clock Speed de 3100 MHz muy estable. Ya te tocaría es analizarlas para ver cuál te llama más la atención o esperar a que salgan las RTX 5090, que supuestamente serían anunciadas a finales de este 2024.

Haven’t shot extreme low light stuff with it. With a single LED light like GVM D800 haven’t had issues so far.

@@WarlordDestroyer in clog 3 internally, I have noticed a lot of banding, I would like to know if it improves with an atomos monitor, but I have not found videos about this

@@mig.reinoso I wouldn’t say that it could improve if you use a recording monitor. It’s the camera’s sensor the one that’s registering the image and the monitor won’t fix it. If you have experienced banding it might be because of the lighting set up or the exposure settings. Check the shutter speed while framing. Maybe the lighting conditions aren’t powerful enough and it’s causing it because some light aren’t as powerful as others. So far I haven’t noticed fix noise pattern or banding when shooting C-Log3 the few times I’ve shot with that single GVM LED light. With this test I noticed that choosing to record through a recording monitor it’d be a big mistake if you want top image quality. Internal is the way to go. Have in mind that if you are shooting lowlights stuff with C-Log3 you truly need to have a proper lighting condition or you’ll be getting a lot of noise all over the image. When shooting C-Log3 you actually need to let your image a bit overexposed so the noise it’s better handled at post.

With the stand that comes… No, it can’t. Maybe with an arm bracket. But I’m not sure if there’s a way to change the direction of what’s being displayed.

I’ve been using it for a while since I got it. So far so good. The first day I was having random 2 seconds black screens, I was freaking out, but that was gone after I swapped my previous TV HDMI cable for the HDMI 2.1 cable that came with the monitor. The 10bit mode only kicks in when you activate the HDR of the Screen Preferences, and at this mode you can’t dim the brightness, it only can be done when it’s at 8bit mode. The colors are great and the difference of each mode is obviously noticeable. The speakers are pretty much weak, it takes a silent space if you want to hear something clearly, you’ll be forced to turn volume to 100%. I’m not sure if I’m doing something wrong but the max refresh rate is 120Hz not 144Hz. The heat that emits is pretty noticeable in your face after several hours. It bugs me that there’s just a single firmware update. I thought there were a few since this is like a model launched 2 years ago, the dimming when using the 10bit mode is very needed. Overall it’s a great 4K 120Hz, 10bit, HDMI 2.1 monitor with speakers. The new coming models are ways overpriced.

@@WarlordDestroyer Hello everything is fine?! I'm from Brazil and I recently bought this monitor. Did you update its firmware? I saw that there are firmwares for the PG32UQ version but not for the PG32UQR version. Thanks.

@@RodrigoMerling Greetings. Yes, after using the included HDMI 2.1 cable the random 2 second black screens were gone. After that, no problem has ever happened. It looks like there’s a single firmware available for the PG32UQR. I followed the path that the official site browser gave me to install according to the monitor model. I checked and double checked, in the end I installed it and never got to know what improved.

@@WarlordDestroyer I think if you try Display port cable, it should put it to 144hz

@@dodo5257-v3f True. The only way this monitor gives you 144Hz is through DisplayPort. Just read it some days ago. It even says that 155Hz can be achieved if overclocking the GPU.

Kinda... Really nervous to make a mistake while unboxing. I wouldn't like to drop new gear when making the videos. 😅

It’s worth it. You feel like you get a brand new camera, although the internal battery still won’t last 20 min. 😅 CinemaDNG still rocks over other Codecs.

​@@WarlordDestroyerThe battery life have never been a problem for me. The Ircut filter will come today. I have bought the Aputure dec lens regain too. CDNG and the Fairchild sensor are the base of the magic.

The file that the R8 drops is better than the one you get from the external recorder. H.265 is flatter, weights less and it easies things to do your coloring while not depending from another device. Although the ProRes HQ file you get from the external recorder still somewhat flat you see that the camera’s file is cleaner. Both are 10bit 4:2:2, the thing is H.265 is a codec that was developed to improve what ProRes used to deliver back in the day. I didn’t believe it ‘till this test.

It’s been performed well for me. My PC has been operational since April past year. Have had no problems at all. I’ve got a video about coil whine on my PC. But, I think I got it wrong. It’s a weird beeping coming form one of the components. Not sure which to date. But I only hear it when I’m too close to my PC, I mean, like putting my ear just few inches away while the glass panel is open. I haven't touched my Vertex setting so it runs at higher voltage. But I assume it's 110V.

@@WarlordDestroyer Thanks for the reply,it might be the reason, because I haven't seen any bad reviews of atx 3.0 PSUs in stores in my country,which has 220V standard, yet I go on reddit and see people complaining about almost every manufacturer and their atx 3.0 PSUs, mostly from US, which I know uses 110V standard,and on some forums,I've read solved the problems with UPS.

@@sokantnevesti603 I believe mine also runs by default at 110V. It’s the standard voltage here in the Americas (North & South). I haven’t had a single problem so far with mine. To be honest I haven’t seen bad comments from Seasonic Power Supplies as I’ve seen from other brands.

If coil whine originates from the power supply unit (PSU), it can be identified by listening near the main power connector; if the sound is audible in that location, it is indicative of a PSU-related issue. However, you indicated that the sound is located near the panel, which suggests that the coil whine is emanating from the motherboard.

Do you get touch screen functions? for instance, can you do auto focus on the external monitor?

It doesn’t bother me that much, but you can hear it depending how close you are from the case. I’ve got a video about coil whine. There you can have an idea. NVIDIA recommends at least 1000W Power Supply for a 4090 and top of the line CPUs. Mine is a 1200W as I wanted to be safe from the minimum recommendation.

For that combo a 1000W power supply is minimum. I’d suggest you a 1200W just to be safe. Mine is Seasonic Vertex GX-1200. Don’t go cheap on your Power Supply.

@@WarlordDestroyer thank you FSP Hydro PTM PRO ATX3.0 PCIe5.0 1200W 80+ Platinum Do you think it's good?

@@Gamer00789 I’d say so. Don’t know about the brand much. But, it looks good.

This is the second version of the AIO, the Aorus Waterforce X360.

Yes, Atomos Shogun Inferno.

Used the kit lens that came with the camera Canon RF 24 - 50mm f4.5-6.3 IS STM.

Not sure when. I hate dust over it. 😂

I think I shot these clips at 4K 60fps Light IPB C-Log3 turned On. That’d be 170 Mbps. And yes, Canon states Full IPB with C-Log3 is 340 Mbps. With that SDXC V30 card I was able to record at every 4K recording mode with no problem, C-Log3 included.

That’s weird. My lens doesn’t make any noise when the autofocus is on. It’s totally silent. It’s the RF 24-50mm F4.5-6.3 IS STM. Yes, it does have IS and it becomes even smoother when you activate the digital video stabilization that has 2 levels of smoothness. The problem with it is that doing so your video gets a crop, losing Full Frame perspective. If your lens it’s the same… Maybe you got a defective one?

Ways better. It’s sharper, cleaner of noise and the files’ size aren’t that exaggerated while shooting 4K C-Log3.

what about the workflow regarding colors ? ProRes HQ is much better than H265 in any way isn't it?@@WarlordDestroyer

Hi. Can you record both internally and externally? (for a back up)

It does. The overheating signal even shows up while I was getting familiarized with the menu. But after a very long time. I’d say after almost an hour. If you start recording under the sun light the overheating signal will show up few minutes later. It’ll start increasing and shutting down at about 15 minutes of shooting 4K 60fps. With 4K 30fps seems not having this problem.

@@WarlordDestroyer Thank you for response. I also heard the camera overheat a bit less by using of faster UHS 2 sd cards, not UHS 1. But otherwise, if the cam as you said can shoot 4k 30fps for longer time without overheating and the short sessions 4k 60fps, it is ok for me. Thanks. 👍

@@Sergey_Sergeev I’m not sure about that one. People at a Facebook group that use top SDXC V90 cards have reported that the camera overheats at the same point while trying 4K 60fps. But, yes. You should be safe at 4K 30fps and below. Also, the first thing you’ll need to do once you get your camera is to turn Airplane Mode On. That’ll save you battery. If you let it Off, the camera will constantly try to connect through WiFi, draining your battery faster.

@@WarlordDestroyer Thanks for the advice.