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Never adjust it because despite decades have passed, it's still at the factory setting?

It looks like it came out great after any missteps. Wood is pretty able to help you cover mistakes. On the glue-up with thin strips (similar to doing cutting boards) I think the wonkiness is eliminated by first laying your chess board strips between opposing 3/4" strips of a hardwood like maple wrapped in plastic wrap so they don't stick to the wood. 3 pairs of these wood strips on top and bottom of your board clamped with C clamps prevents flexing of the board that happens if you only use the long pipe clamps.

Agree with all the safety comments. But you are on the right track. Build yourself a router sled to flatten after glue-ups. You dont need the final thickness to be much more than a half inch. You can back it with plywood and then cover the edges with hardwood

Excellent tutorial !

How are you liking these I’m looking at buying a set of good headlights for my 1989 gmc sierra classic s15 extended cab

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I quite like the idea of slightly staggered height in the board, happy accident! :D

Avoid kickback. Add a riving knife on your table saw.

You could have just put a sheet metal clip on the throttle tang....

Check timing and look for vacuum leaks....

Wtf?.....

This was incredible.

THANKS MOST WOOD WORKERS WONT SHOW THERE MISTAKES, GREAT JOB. I ALSO A BEGINNER!!!!!!

Looking for someone that can learn how to forge rings from very special titanium. Look me up.

Well done, but that was hard to watch!

If the iac is closing completely that's all the ecm can do to lower the idle speed. If it's too high still there's probably a vacuum leak allowing unmetered air to enter the intake.

Nifty, yet simple project. I hope ya eventually got a drill press and some forstner bits. :)

Painful to watch.

4:15 the idle isn’t rough it’s a 350 cid without 2 cylinders. Same bore and stroke. They put a balance shaft in it in 1993.

2.5 liter 4 cylinder is great also. Never the 2.8 v6

Stool looks beautiful but doesn't look to stable when reaching for thinhs real high.idk

You can try using small double-ended tacks in the chequered strips before gluing together so they don't slide

22.5 cuts

I put a carburetor manifold can a 4-barrel Edelbrock nothing like the four-barrel runs like a rape ape

And I've adjusted mine up and down whenever needed and it runs perfect I don't have to leave it where the factory said it at all

I removed my plug and I sure didn't drill on anything are go through half of or go through half of the stuff you have gone through mine came out fairly easy

Couple of questions, (I am thinking of doing these as table numbers for a wedding)...what font did you use for the numbers? Is there a specific font for Catan? Also, is a vector file available for the number tokens? I need to scale up in size.

Cool i got qu'est 2!!

Turned out pretty good 👍

This video scared the crap out of me!

That sticker is not hidden. It's in plain sight. I don't know why you didn't drill a small hole in the cap, turn a screw into the hole, pull the cap out with a vicegrip.

This is absolutely gorgeous!

😂 It's all in millermeters! (MM) 195mm width x 65mm height x 15inch rims you Americans need to update to the metric system!

if your not recommended to due this then why are you showing this to people?

Clamp some pieces of wood vertically as well to keep everything level!

On these TBI motors, the sensors and proper spark are always the issue. I've got a 95 K-1500 and my idle went goofy up and down for a while then got worse. Changed out the TPI sensor, MAP sensor, IAC sensor and it got a bit better then got worse. Changed plugs, wires, Cap and rotor and everything is like brand new and running smooth as silk. All of these things work together to make these engines run properly. Sometimes you think it's this but the whole time it was that. Keep all that working and up to date and you will be happy about your motor.

You're Perfect👍🏻 In your first time. Like me, learning by ourselves. Also, learning from the mistakes. Thoroughly enjoyed your woodwork. I love that two-wood colors.

I must have the only first generation S-10 in the world with ZERO rust. It's a 1993, AZ truck, I bought it new, it has been garaged all its life, and only has 27,000 miles on it. It has a 2.8L/5 speed, but that's about to change. I'm building a carbureted 383ci V8 for it right now. It's also getting a Muncie 4 speed from 1969, and an 8.8 Ford Trak-Loc rear axle.

Hey! Is there a way I can reach out to you? I know where the relay for the hazards are

I have the same truck, 1991 reg cab. Same two tone color red and while and exact same head lights, small block 355

LOL you are like a professional singer who is asked to sing badly for a movie

Make sure your chop saw is true but it is better to use table saw jig in conjunction with a trued up table saw slide. But you showed your talent by fixing and covering up your mistakes. I is a nice chess board. Your table saw technique is scary. There are some simple methods and jigs that will help keep all your body parts attached.

Im looking at the same truck he says it runs but the outside paint is just horrible. I don’t mind the look I just want it to run and fix it myself it has 211,000 miles. Would this be worth for $1500? I plan on paying 1k at most just want an opinion thanks!

What a great video! The board turned out great in the end. I liked the explanations of the mistakes knowing that I would make numerous errors also the first time doing anything. It’s good to know I’m not alone 😮

I recognize this is an old video, but it just popped up in my feed as I have been building a chess board project myself. I hate to be that person, but man, lots of sketchy moments with your table saw. Again, I know this is 5yrs old, so likely not directly useful advice to you... but here goes. 1) Install a riving knife. That will prevent the cut piece from pinching between the blade and the fence and generating dangerous kickback. That kickback you were seeing when cutting pieces for the border was pretty mild in comparison to the projectiles your table saw is capable of shooting into your leg, chest or face. 2) Buy or make a proper push stick. You want to be able to put consistent downward pressure on the workpiece throughout the cut. Holding a long stick at an angle is woefully unsafe. You seem to have a better pushstick at the end of the video, so maybe you purchased some of those accessories after the original cuts... but those are WAY better than what you were using in the beginning. 3) When cutting small strips, use a sacrificial push stick. I recommend lowering your blade to just above the workpiece thickeness and using a pushblock that will apply downward pressure across the length of the workpiece and can be cut by the blade so you can push down consistently throughout the cut. You showed some really wonky and sketchy cuts throughout, but the worst was with those strips for the border. 4) Consider a feather board. A feather board applies sideways pressure holding the piece against the fence before the cut. This would have helped with any of the cuts, but especially the padauk cuts for the angled border. The workpiece can tend to shift away from the fence near the end of a cut and give you some wonky results and potentially create kickback. This is easy enough to do when you have a wide piece and you are only cutting a small portion of it... you just push "in" with your hand... but when the piece is narrow, you can't keep your hand that close to the blade at the end of the cut and it tends to lift off the fence. I5) Glue Up - you're right, getting consistently flat pieces before glue up would have helped. Also, look into clamping cauls or a clamping table that allows you to clamp down at the joints to keep things flat while applying your clamps across the joints. Adding weight to the middle of the board is helpful to minimize the amount of clean up too. 6) Sanding the edge banding. Look into a plane of some sort. You could have quickly and easily planed off the extra material and then sanding it with orbital sander to keep everything flat. Using the drum sander to sanding that narrow bit of edge banding is like using a sledge hammer to drive in a tac. 7) Making miter joints - Set your blade to make a slightly more acute cut... so make the angle 45.1. That way if there is a little bit of a gap, it will be not at the corner / tip of the miter, it will be in the back closer to the board... you don't want that gap either, but you can use clamping pressure to make it a nice tight joint... if you go at 44.9, you can't really overcome that with clamping pressure and you're just stuck with a gap. The other thing is to just take your time and sneak up on the fit when you are cutting them. Final though is to consider making the cuts on the table saw with a miter gauge or angled sled. Miter saws are notoriously pretty wonky in terms of alignment. They are generally made for straight cuts, framing houses and cutting baseboard / trim so the tolerances are not super critical. If you are making fine furniture and crafts, you need to consider a more accurate tool. The end result looks nice, so kudos to you, but I really hope you have implemented some of what I wrote above in the past 5 yrs to keep yourself safe and minimize clean up for these sorts of projects.

I know this was a early video in your wood working journey. Always measure corner to corner to ensure the material is square. This will help with your miters and get a good miter gage so you can cut them on the table saw.

Looks good, I will be attempting to make one for my daughter’s birthday.

Hey, that turned out to be a lovely, classy-looking board! I'd buy it. 😀

I did this years ago...very simple...no different than removing the air mixture screws from an old quadrajet carb

Retired Class A tech here. There is a reason those idle screws are sealed-- because you will be messing with a delicate balance of sensors. And you will likely have ongoing issues if you do mess with it. Better to find the underlying problem. A manual is a big help. RESEARCH. Start with the simplest jobs first-- is the air filter clean; get some spray sensor cleaner and clean the MAF and MAP sensors and whatever other sensors that can be cleaned; clean the throttle body with TBI spray cleaner; check condition of vacuum hoses-- put your ear down, sometimes you can hear a hissing if there's a leak; the EGR Valve is very important- mechanical ones can be removed and the little pintle valve inside freed up-- you can test if it holds vacuum with a basic vacuum tester- or just get a new one if it's original and old. Research how to inspect and test the Idle Air Control valve and TPS; then you can start getting into the bigger things like fuel pressure tests, O2 sensor test, pulling the throttle body and check injectors and the gaskets and of course you will need to replace them as they get damaged upon removal. It's always about getting enough air, fuel and spark as well as having clear exhaust channels. There cannot be any fuel, air or electrical system (arcing) leaks. Just go at it systematically. Sometimes it is the simplest thing. You should invest in: a multimeter; a vacuum tester; possibly a fuel pressure gauge, and hopefully a comprehensive manual for your model which will have all the specs and electrical diagrams you need. It will also show how to bring up codes and what they mean. Invaluable. No guessing. Haynes, Chilton-- can get them used.