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Didn't do a build video, but will do an update on how it has raced indoors this year ....

It was a long time ago I used this ESC. Not sure if this one does 2S. There is a 120amp version which may be 2-4S. Either way these Surpass ESC are great for the price

@@madhatterrcchats7164 ok thx

In all honesty I reviwed this a long time ago and no longer have it or the instructions to check. You could be right. The current version is rated 4000KV off road for a longer 3660 (more torque). A 3650 (540 brushed sized motor like in 1/10 cars) is smaller, less torque and with smaller motors you can run a larger KV than specified for the bigger motor dependant on gearing etc. Really trial and error to how big you can go but a 3660 with 4000KV will be mega fast in a 1/10 on or off road. I generally ran a 3660 3100 - ish KV in my 1/10 off road cars 🙂

Yes

swap two of the motor leads

Can this 60a esc but with a 4800kv motor run on 3s? Or just stick with 2s on it?

They are great as they come. I only ever broke a rear CVD on chassis in its oringinal form. Direct swap with Traxxas and RPM parts or other options for Slash. It is my go to bigger scale basher ...... body is only PVC not polycarb tho just so you know. Maybe if buying a full set up with radio a used Slash might be a good buy?

@@madhatterrcchats7164 I look at that option the price of this is still cheaper new than a used slash

I'd guess you may need to calibrate your ESC with your radio gear. Should be covered in the instructions of the ESC.

Hi, thanks for the help before. but I tried everything and cant figure out how to calibrate the ESC. cant see it in the instructions. could you tell me how to do it please @@madhatterrcchats7164

Surpass Hobby stuff is great. I've had them right up to 6S and sold on later still working fine. I currently still have a baby 25amp Surpass in a 1/16th. Massive company premium budget brand and they have a Rocket range as well more up market. I'm not on commission lol but great value brand

@@madhatterrcchats7164 thank you 😊

Hi, these are the TRF aeration set. The big bores are a different set that come in pairs. These from memory will be 12-13mm - same diameter as plastic CVA shocks. The link to Tamiyabase.com has the measurements eye to eye fully extended in the pictures .. tamiyabase.com/parts/15211

I bought a set off Amazon of the upgrade ones. These were leaky when arrived though a lot are OK. My set was missing 2 O rings in bottom of shock hence the leak. I then got a set of all ally Absima on road shocks for Tamiya TT01E etc. The springs were too hard so I used the soft ones from the leaky set. You have to use M3 screws to mount the Absima. It looks a bit clunky and they are angled a little from upright but perform brilliantly. I think I used 10wt oil at back and 20wt at front but don't quote me it was a while ago lol. I'm just refitting it now with a 1/10 3S ESC, and new motor and servo. Vid coming soon.

@@madhatterrcchats7164 awesome dude I’ll keep my eyes out for that. What size 55mm I’m guessing if for the tto1

@@grumpygrandpa3640 yeah mine were black in a 4 pack but I don't think the new ones come in 4s just pairs. Quite fancy now. Also look for MJX 1/16 spares as the oil shocks on the MJX cars are brilliant

Sorry amigo. I ended up trading the DT03T & hop ups for a Yokomo YZ2 Cal3.1 2wd buggy which I sold as I had already bought the SWORKz S12-2C EVO 2wd to race. I love my Tamiya but for off road racing the modern cars like the SWORKz are waay more engineered. I did have a TD2 - it would have been interesting to see how it performed alongside the current top cars.

Hiya I don't show in video but you need to turn ESC off usually before unplugging from program card or box to save settings. Instructions should say this. What ESC are you running?

@@madhatterrcchats7164 I'm running a xerun xr8 plus , 200amp. I've tried that too, and It doesn't save anything

Hiya, most boat ESCs use a water jacket for cooling. That said this ESC has forward and reverse but not sure if the lack of air flow inside a boat might give you over-heating..... You can get budget marine ESCs and in the UK M-troniks do a range of marine ESCs as do Hobbywing www.mtroniks.net/

Hey did u ever try out this esc i got bad 1 it fried out rite of the rip with 4s so they sent another & havnt Had the need to try it again thanksbud

Yes buddy it is. I will check listing when I get home and comment link to listing

I have the NIP combo for sale too as below facebook.com/marketplace/item/880782396489566/

Here you go facebook.com/marketplace/item/2112242605638363/

A decent branded ESC is going to be £65-£120 for 4S. These are super cheap. As with anything super cheap quality control is not so good. I've tended to find a cheapo ESC either works out of the box or doesn’t. The supplier will usually refund though no questions asked...

@@madhatterrcchats7164 If I can recommend a cheap one to you then it would be the WP-8BL 150, it's a relabeled Hobbywing!🤩 i got couple of it,works pretty awesome!

Yeah what were you expecting. It says 3-4s I’d of never even tried 4s

If you have the monster truck versions you need to trim the shell. I trimmed mine all round at set it low like the truggy version (lower shell)

Where did you get the spoiler. Looks bigger than the one supplied with Slyder.

@@Sirwafflehead my spoiler and wheelie bar were FTX spares from eBay

Bounces usually means friction shocks, not oil filled. The basic brushed tracer came with friction dampers (mine started as this). If you have a screw going into the side of the shock caps the shocks are friction. Packing them with thick marine grease can help a bit to ease the bounce. My shocks upgrade was done a long time ago. I have used Absima on road shocks designed for a TT01E or similar. I had a set of upgrade shocks for the car but they were leaking as delivered. So I used springs from the leaky shocks and the Absima bodies. Don't fit flush and had to use M3 mounts but they work fine, never come off and have not leaked. I had 10WT and 20WT oil out on the bench but cannot for life of me remember which I used. If doing big jumps I would go with 20wt or 30wt in the front minimum but just speeding on grass etc 10wt should do all round I would think.

If you check out my other Tracer vids I may say which oil I used

You can run two 2S lipo to make 4S. I no longer have this ESC so cannot try it for you. The SkyRC TS150 runs 2S to 6S if you are looking for an ESC that does a wide range of batteries. I have both the TS150 and the TS150 Pro Competition (all aluminium housing). Great ESCs

My pleasure it is what we are online for to help. A friend is regularly bashing one of these on a Typhon so I am very impressed for the price

Not had GPS on it but very fast on just 2S & ESC is 3S capable

These ESCs are waterproof from new. You can see the sealing resin at the top of the board on them. On any ESC a bit of silcone sealant around the wires will do no harm. GT85 is a silicon spray and spraying your cars plastics after a run, and the electronics with this after cleaning will nourish the plastics, prevent corrosion on the plugs and leave a light water repellent coating on everything. In general the level of waterproofing on other makes of RC car waterproof ESCs (this post is about the Platinium range) runs from splash proof, strong jets of water to running partially or fully submerged. A big branded manufacturer like Arrma or Spektrum will tell you in the instructions how waterproof the ESC is and how long for in the instructions. ESCs are not waterproof full stop but only for so long and the more wet the shorter time they are waterproof for in one go. Say maybe wet grass for up to two hours, submerged 10 mins etc. You can buy something called conformal coating to paint onto your ESC circuit board to make it waterproof. You can then seal the ESC as well afterwards. The manufacturers use a resin of some kind. Silicon can be tried but you need airflow for cooling and the typical silicon sealer may not be rated enough for the heat generated by your ESC. You can buy specific liquid electrical insulation repair tape which dries like silicon, is for water proofing and is usually heat rated enough for an ESC. So conformal coating on the board, then seal with liquid insulation tape remembering to ensure the fan can still work moving air around. To make a non-waterproof ESC waterproof as above it would be trial and error to see how waterproof and how long it is waterproof for. If you take the heatsink off the board (the fets) to use the conformal coating you might need thermal compound (like used for computer chips) to bond the heat sink back onto the fets. I would only recommend doing this if you are experienced at working with electronic circuit boards or can afford to lose the ESC if you damage the board during the process.

Does it work

That is a good question. The red SL are usually dust and waterproof. The silver range of cans with red stripes are Platinium series and are water and dust proof. I have not had a blue motor in my hand but the ones I have seen list as waterproof & dust proof in the SL ranges. Obviously there are the SD ESCs and motors as well as their premium brand Rocket ranges. It is probably best to check an individual listing to see the specs of what you are buying. In general Surpass / Rocket are at the top end of budget friendly manufacturers. I haven't had an issue with any Surpass product though Hobbywing are a step up in quality to Surpass productions when looking at ESC cases, sealing rating vs size etc.

thank you for your answer.. i'm planning to upgrade my motor soon but unsure with what is better between two variations 😀

@@froilandelacruz5493 I have been running their red ones from 2440 size through 2445 to platinium in 540 (3650) and 2845 size, back into red cans 3660/3670 size in 1/10 and 1/8 and had no trouble with any of them.

thanks ill buy the red one then 😃

My kit battery was a Li-Po and the bigger MAH I bought were lipo. That said a LI-Lon, LI-FE or NICAD should not affect cogging issues as this is to do with the ESC and motor (hall sensor) talking to each other. Volts within the range of the ESC and motor will not affect cogging issues. To be honest I have ran Surpass (SL), Firma (SL), SkyRC (SL) and SD HW ESC with sensorless motors and other than a little jitter as start up once ESC and motor are talking to each other had to cogging issues just bashing around .....

Pinions on these cars are 0.6 module. Various versions come with different pinions. From memory the Tracer brushed was 14T. The HBX 16889a Pro came with 16T pinion. The plastic plate that screws to the motor makes sure the pinion used meshes correctly - not too tight or too slack. The plate will be stamped with the pinion size on each size so the motor plate can be used with 2 pinion sizes. Hope this helps

@@madhatterrcchats7164 do you know what the inside is (where the shaft goes into )

@@xdprod1gy834 That is the pinion. For these cars you need a 0.6 module (or mod) pinion with whichever number of teeth your motor mount lets you use. Will be choice of 2 numbers of teeth depending on which you truck came with. Not always strictly the same. You pinion will have to fit your motor shaft as well. You normally have 3.17mm on 2845 size brushless and above but can have the smaller 2mm?? shaft on them as well. You can use a 3.17 mm hole pinion on smaller motor shafts as long as nipped up tight. Kit pinion will be fine on 3S

@@madhatterrcchats7164so would the stock pinion fit in a surpass hobby 2440 that has a 2.3mm shaft

@@xdprod1gy834 Yes I ran a 2440 4600KV with my kit 390 brushed pinion and later with a 3.17 mm pinion on the 2mm shaft no issues but only on 2S

Great value at that ! Thanks for the update. Mine is in build queue, 35amp Surpass ESC and wild KV 2445 motor, some ally parts but really like the look of this a.aliexpress.com/_mL4ZM9C