- Видео 151
- Просмотров 59 751
Tall Beta Climbing
Франция
Добавлен 28 сен 2019
Seeking the beta of a boulder on internet has become widely adopted.
Not being able to find sequence that is adapted to your height and weight can make you lose time, skin, or even lead to an injury. With this channel, I wanted to share my tall guy betas.
You are welcomed to send my your own tall guy beta, with your heigth and weight and a little comment !
Not being able to find sequence that is adapted to your height and weight can make you lose time, skin, or even lead to an injury. With this channel, I wanted to share my tall guy betas.
You are welcomed to send my your own tall guy beta, with your heigth and weight and a little comment !
Ineschakra 7B+ Arrastradero Albarracín
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm
Classic for a reason, good holds in an overhang, I should have tried the beta where you match the left hand gaston. Save some energy for the top out !
Tall Factor :
I had to pull out my deepest drop knee, felt super bunched !
Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Classic for a reason, good holds in an overhang, I should have tried the beta where you match the left hand gaston. Save some energy for the top out !
Tall Factor :
I had to pull out my deepest drop knee, felt super bunched !
Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Просмотров: 105
Видео
El Orgasmo 7A+ then Orgasmo extensión 7B Albarracín, La Fuente
Просмотров 817 часов назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm The fastest drying boulder of La Fuente, with Dr Zoidberg ! An inviting little roof, but those exit moves are hard. Tall Factor : The 7A version felt more 7B with my height, so hard to get over the buldge ! The extension felt more 7A... Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Chicharroneti 7A Albarracín, Loma de la Tejería
Просмотров 257 часов назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm Rather cool boulder with interesting arete moves at the start, a knee bar is possible Tall Factor : I had to use all my flexibility to get that left foot out of the little start roof ! Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Le Proueptologue 7B Cuvier Sorcières Fontainebleau
Просмотров 43928 дней назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm Very painful one, but cool movement, scarier than I thought looking at videos ! I added some work of the 8A version, for my own reference purposes and to show you a bit how I world those, piece by piece ! Tall Factor : This is T-rexy compression, optimal size probable around 180 cm here, felt too tall. bleau.info/sorcieres/21183.html Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Baloo 7B Maunoury Fontainebleau (Flash)
Просмотров 19128 дней назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm Well hmmm.... That one is a steal for the tall folks, felt 6B at most !! but really cool climb, perfect features, a must do. The 7C on the left on the other hand has a very nasty sit start for our kind, couldn't do it in the session. Tall Factor : From Zero to Hero bleau.info/maunoury/1274.html Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Movement Activated 7B Maunoury Fontainebleau
Просмотров 18828 дней назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm A proud dyno, very fun and safe jumping, perfect one really ! Tall Factor : Impossible if not tall this one ?? bleau.info/maunoury/12300.html Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Movement Activated (droite assis) 7A+ Maunoury Fontainebleau
Просмотров 11528 дней назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm If you did the stand, you have to try the sit, doesn't add much :) Tall Factor : The sit start is really gentle.... bleau.info/maunoury/302453.html Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Movement Activated (droite) 7A Maunoury Fontainebleau (Flash)
Просмотров 15628 дней назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm So, finally, the right version with the right name on the channel, this one is hard to get right, as actually the 6B version "Movement Deactivated" could feel like a soft 7A... Tall Factor : Almost did not had to jump, makes it easy ! bleau.info/maunoury/300543.html?locale=en Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Kut de Crêpe 7A/6C+ Maunoury Fontainebleau
Просмотров 7028 дней назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm Stunning setting for this low hanging fruit, felt more like 6B. Maybe it's 7A without the pedestal ? Tall Factor : No problemo here, happy to have a big span, but my friend with about 170 cm span did it easily too bleau.info/maunoury/20178.html Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
La Mandarine 7C+ Roche aux Oiseaux Fontainebleau
Просмотров 310Месяц назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm A must try, I gave it 5 stars even if the landing is not optimal !! Tall Factor : Makes it easier because you can keep the left foot longer on the starting ledge. Still quite powerful but maybe 7C ? bleau.info/oiseaux/1289.html Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Alea Jacta Est 7C Roche aux Oiseaux Fontainebleau
Просмотров 183Месяц назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm I think I never had to think that much for a single move, I had to give myself a lot of cues and to internalise it (scapula super low on the thorax so that ears are far away fro the shoulders, dig with both arms, bring right arm even closer, twist a bit the body, all that in sequence) Tall Factor : Not that easy for the "very tall" because the starting holds ar...
Satan m'Habite 7B+ Roche aux Oiseaux Fontainebleau
Просмотров 204Месяц назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm Dabbed after the crux and of course I struggled to do it again because of the loss of power ! Like said in the video, the right hand on the rightmost part of the undercling ledge will make the power move a tiny bit easier Tall Factor : probably easier for the tall this one, no need for intricate beta, just power ! bleau.info/oiseaux/8479.html Shot with Fujifilm...
Uruguay 7A Roche aux Oiseaux Fontainebleau
Просмотров 69Месяц назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm Cool movements, just be sure to protect that nasty rock ! Tall Factor : if you can deep bend your left leg, it's probably easier to do the boulder if you are tall bleau.info/oiseaux/15169.html Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Le Mandarin (droite) 6C+ Roche aux Oiseaux
Просмотров 79Месяц назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm Nice boulder to try if you don't have a lot of pads ! Tall Factor : I was afraid it would be too cramped, but it's ok infact ! bleau.info/oiseaux/301383.html?locale=en Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Le Mandarin (sans convention) 7B Fontainebleau
Просмотров 103Месяц назад
193 cm / 84 Kgs / Arm Span 201 cm I was surprised the right hand pinch is not really polished ! Tall Factor : Probably easier, as you can ride that left toe hook to get the top hold. Sitstart is a bit uncomfortable though ! bleau.info/oiseaux/9593.html?locale=en Shot with Fujifilm X-T4
Crampe in the Ghetto (assis droite) 7A Cassepot Roches Grises Fontainebleau
Просмотров 682 месяца назад
Crampe in the Ghetto (assis droite) 7A Cassepot Roches Grises Fontainebleau
Wolverine 7C Apremont Désert Fontainebleau
Просмотров 2632 месяца назад
Wolverine 7C Apremont Désert Fontainebleau
Furtif Haut 7B Apremont Portes du Désert Fontainebleau
Просмотров 1362 месяца назад
Furtif Haut 7B Apremont Portes du Désert Fontainebleau
Monaco 7B Rocher des Princes Fontainebleau
Просмотров 1323 месяца назад
Monaco 7B Rocher des Princes Fontainebleau
Albatros Royal 6C+ Rocher des Princes Fontainebleau
Просмотров 3553 месяца назад
Albatros Royal 6C Rocher des Princes Fontainebleau
Action Directe (assis) 7A/6C+ Roche aux Oiseaux Fontainebleau
Просмотров 1774 месяца назад
Action Directe (assis) 7A/6C Roche aux Oiseaux Fontainebleau
La Rampe 7A/+ Buthiers Piscine Fontainebleau
Просмотров 6494 месяца назад
La Rampe 7A/ Buthiers Piscine Fontainebleau
Jus de Pierre (assis) 7B Franchard Meyer Fontainebleau
Просмотров 4325 месяцев назад
Jus de Pierre (assis) 7B Franchard Meyer Fontainebleau
Jus de Pierre 7A Franchard Meyer Fontainebleau
Просмотров 1395 месяцев назад
Jus de Pierre 7A Franchard Meyer Fontainebleau
Des Vertes et des pas Mûres 7A Apremont Désert Fontainebleau
Просмотров 1336 месяцев назад
Des Vertes et des pas Mûres 7A Apremont Désert Fontainebleau
Indestructible 7A+/A 95.2 Fontainebleau
Просмотров 530Год назад
Indestructible 7A /A 95.2 Fontainebleau
La Bérézina 7C Fontainebleau "Crowded Cuvier Edition"
Просмотров 2 тыс.Год назад
La Bérézina 7C Fontainebleau "Crowded Cuvier Edition"
I bailed the topout on this
Anti-tall stuff
Beautiful bloc!! Nice send
thanks mate !
Merci Antoine pour les vidéos toujours au top !
De rien merci pour le commentaire ça fait plaisir !
Good to see you do it without the high left crimp 💪. There's lots of people who use it but it's not suppose to be used
Yeah almost left without the correct version !
@@tallbetaclimbing What's the best dyno you done in the Foret?
@@dave990 This one is really among the best. I'd say also Kanguru City, Smash, Ange Naïf, Froggy Dick, Jafesse Connection Airline, Peter Pan
@@tallbetaclimbing La Deferlanta at Cuisiniere is probably my favourite. I'd say Froggy Dick and Movement Activated are super cool aswell!! Kangaroo City is very soft for the grade imo. Have you tried Windmill at Franchard Raymond?
@@dave990 yeah I agree with you on kanguru. Ariane 5 is super soft too for the tall at least. Déferlante is on the list, will try! And windmill too but it looks scary =) one I have to come back to is Phobos Moon, got close a while ago but never tried again. Felt quite hard. Hale bopp felt Impossible =)
Merci youtube de m'avoir recommandé ta chaîne. Une mine d'or pour moi qui commence à grimper dans le 7 à bleau. C'est rare de voir des grimpeurs qui ont exactement la même corpulence que soit surtout pour nos tailles 🤣: 193 cm / 82 kg / 205 cm d'envergure pour moi. Très brutal comme bloc, bien joué !
Hehe nice ça, c'est lidée de la chaine ! Au plaisir de te croiser en forêt alors !
Nice flash, looked so casual ahaha
I had the pressure mate I arrived and announced I was gonna flash it 😶🌫
as tall as you and flashed it as well. However I don't think this is 7B for the short either. Can't go from 6B to 7B cause of height...
@@quintanabrotones I would think that too, but can't say for sure... Some shorter climbers there were struggling hard on it
I would say the exponential crux of being shorter is that you are launching from an undercling, its hard to jump if you have a lot of downward pressure (here we see its underclings), hence if you are tall enough to reach the lip its much easier and if you are short you are easily in a way more difficult position
I can confirm it is a bit harder as a shorter climber. (Guy in the black shirt in the video) 😥 Managed it in the end though 💪😄
@@tomuvin3033 Ah nice that's great !! So funny you found that vid !! Hope your stay in Font was great =)
@@FaramirTheGeek I actually used a higher wider right foot than our friend in the video. In my opinion it comes up to hip flexibility as well. I met some not so shorter than me guys at the boulder who couldn’t just stand on those footholds. Couldn’t open their hips to do the heel toe cam on the starting hold to get stablished on the undercut rail and move left foot up. Also just check more videos of this boulder and you’ll see shorter climbers getting the lip totally static. You can also get your feet higher and be less bunched than the taller climber. You can also grow your biceps and be stronger on underclings. You can also use your hips while climbing. It’s not all tall or short.
Très classe j’essaierai bien le debout !
@@Jeanbarrere strap toi bien la main gauche 😅
Yeah, the sit adds quite a difficulty but your span and height will surely be of benefit here! :)
Let's hope so =) Gotta say I felt much closer on "Deforestation" !
@@tallbetaclimbing you got this, just stick with it! And I suggest a thin pad for your back on this one! :)
@@miroz5824 For sure I will 🤣
Oh man I remember that red 6A "Envergure" it's so hard indeed
yeah right 😆
Fellow 193cm 84kg climber here! solid effort mate!
Thanks mate !!
Easy money!
No money is easy in the cruel forest bro 😥
@@LeonxLeon true dat, gotta crush for those sends
You are crushing it and the season barely started!
@@h.d.l. Yesss perfect start I am happy! Planning any trip to the forest?
@@tallbetaclimbing Yes! Of course. Let's hope for some crisp dry spells this winter...
Franchement c’était vraiment imperceptible ! Bravo
Merci mec !! Oui mais ça m'aurait hanté..
@@tallbetaclimbing tu sais bien que j’aurais jamais pu laisser passer ça!
@@paulpassot Je sais bien 😭😭😭
Nice one! that 7a is definitely not easy haha. I struggled a lot more than you just on that part
Thanks mate 😁 the lown part is like 6C
Hello Great send, cool boolder. FAN + Music shouldn't be part in Font. If you need to use fan to climb the rock it means that it is either not wet nor it is the best condition and should be part of the game and wait for the collante. Please use either earphone or no music at all, just enjoy the forest and no Fan
@@Scratchjy Thanks. I understand your concerns, the video make it sound way louder than it was. The music was just on my phone, not on speakers, and barely audible more than a few meters. I have a tinnitus and it's hard to stay for a long time in the silence of the forest, it really helps me to have some music, I can ensure you that's it's way lower than a normal conversation, I dislike loud music. The fan was here unnecessary, I admit, but sometimes it can help. Best, Antoine
this is a 6b
+
I have no knee pad, could I do the kneebar without a pad?
@@dendikke3 it will be harder but it's doable with a t-shirt around the thigh (watch Filip Notebaert's video)
great send! Do you have a few recommendations for cool 6c / 6c+ climbs, for tall people?
Sure ! If you want to break into those grades, best would be "La Voie Michaud" in l'Elephant, "La Tour de Pise" in Cuvier, "Traction avant" in Roche au Sabot. For the best climbs at those grades, I'd say "La Fissure de la Liberté", "De Fil en Aiguille", "La Lune" in Apremont est, "Magifix" in Rocher Canon, "Coin Tranquille" in Isatis, "Duroxmanie" of course and " La Dalle du Trou d'Obus", Enjoy ! =)
Really enjoy these video's, thanks for the uploads!
Thanks a lot mate !!
There's a knee at that makes it easier
Can confirm that this is quite hard for us shorties 🙄
I can imagine!!
Super bloc, je l'ai fait aujourd'hui aussi, mais faut une envergure d'albatros comme sur Modulor, je saurais pas dire combien ça cote pour les gens "normaux" :)
En remontant la main sur la rampe de droite on peut rapprocher un peu les prises, mais c'est sûr que c'est un bloc qui change complètement si on est pas assez grand pour prendre à la fois la rampe droite et la main gauche de départ ou le sorte de galet main gauche d'après... Il y a bien des petites réglettes sur la face mais bon !
Un de mes sites préférés. Bravo pour ta persévérance et bravo pour la croix ! 😁
Oui tout le secteur est magnifique et relativement préservé, je pense retourner faire les blocs du niveau prochainement si le temps le permet 🙂 Merci !
J'étais passé à côté mais jamais eu le courage de l'essayer. La prochaine fois promis! Je me remets d'une tendinopathie au coude droit aussi, j'avais trop forcé en blocage l'an dernier, mais après 3 mois de kiné ça m'embête plus trop. Faut juste faire gaffe car sur des sessions avec trop de volume ça a tendance à tirer les jours d'après.
Ah mince, bon courage pour ta fin de récup alors ! Oui le volume joue beaucoup. Je me l'étais déclenche en faisant 3 heures d'essais non stop en blocage dans Miss Kgb... Bloc sympa de reprise franchement, pas haut le 7A est plutôt sympa, dans un beau secteur 🙂
@@tallbetaclimbingMoi c'était après 2 heures à me buter sur le mouvement de fin de Yoga, gros blocages bras droit sur le plat de fin à chaque fois et les pieds qui partent, au final je m'y prenais mal et j'ai compris la méthode qu'à la session d'après.
Incredible work, like u never stopped
Thanks a lot mate 😬😬
Just came back from a trip to font. Terrible conditions with rainy days. Stumbled upon your channel while browsing through beta videos. Nice to see so many suggestions for tall people. Wish I saw this before I went down but will def come back so keep up with the content.
Well my elbow tendinopathy turned out to last almost one year, and just when it felt ok again I broke an ACL snowboarding, so no content for a while!! But still hangboarding and conditioning, will be back for that 8A :D and I'll do an injury podcast / serie too at some point. See you in the forest!!
@@tallbetaclimbing oh no… I know those injuries all to well. Lots of wishes for a speedy recovery and looking forward to future content… cya in the forest :)
Hahaha no way, was looking for beta and found my favourite Parisian neuro surgeon dj
Hehehe not sure thatmy beta is that helpful thought 🤣 Even if this one is quite basic... when are you coming to Bleau ??
Se sale con el pie mas bajo,así és 6a+
I´m 176 cm and I climb it exactly the same way? ;-)
Nice! Yes it must be the best beta regardless of height
Sickk
as a 169cm climber, the left hand up move was hardest. the top out was easier :)
great video! would you recommend to boulder september-october in font for some harder and slopey stuff such as lamia san assis or rataplat?
Thanks ! You can have great conditions as of mid september, but there is always risk of consecutive weeks of rain, so you should wait the last minut to plan, or have a plan B
@@tallbetaclimbing cheers, I plan to stay for 1-2months in font, probably will see you around as there's loads of stuff on my 'radar' such as Ill nino etc lol, not as crazy armspan as you, but also 193cm (0+armspan) and 81-82kg
@@sirlockoff Ah nice, you have enough time to be sure to have 5 stars days !! Sure send me a message when you are there :)
@@tallbetaclimbing are you climbing? not sure how to message in yt!
@@sirlockoff hey mate! I'm still doing rehab for golfer elbow... Probably no hard climbing before spring :(
Yeah man! Well done on Lamia-San! I knew it would suit you ;)
Thanks mate :) it sure did !
you could keep you right foot in the crack while reaching out to make it more static, and use the good hold on the left in the end then it's definitely not the hardest 7A
Ah nice, that would really be a tall beta then !! Gotta go and try it
im a little smaller, had to "jump" to the good sloper and pray that my foot stays on, because i wasnt strong enough to just hold it. Oiseaux has stiff grades! Action directe a couple meters away was also hard for 7A imo
Ah yeah holding without the foot must be hard for sure !! I did not try Action Directe yet, it looked a bit too lowball ahah, but I will next time, looks like it's a popular one !
Salut! Une astuce pour tenir le haut de ce bloc? J'arrive systématiquement à envoyer la main gauche, et comme toi je perds le talon au même moment, mais j'ai l'impression d'avoir aucune chance de tenir main gauche seulement. Le top est juste fuyant comme il faut et il a tendance à steaker les phalanges assez vite. J'ai essayé d'envoyer les deux mains mais le fait de garder l'arête moins longtemps fait que je ne vais pas assez haut. Et garder le talon planté comme ton pote me paraît impossible xD
Ah oui le talon gauche ça m'avait impressionné qu'il le garde aussi ! Après pour tenir le plat main gauche c'etait un peu en dynamique j'ai vite ramené ma main droite, pas sûr que je le tienne longtemps en statique. Mais c'est sûr que des bonnes conditions aident aussi pour ce genre de plats et là ça devient compliqué !
i think the couple are the ones from wedge climbing no?
Ah I didn't notice at the time but looks like for sure ! They were very nice anyway :)
love your content =)
Thanks a lot mate ! See you in the forest !
Definitely one of the harder 7A+es in the foret! Regardless of the height.
For sure !!
The height didn't play a significant role?? 😅 You solved the crux bumping to the good hold, which is impossible or super hard for most people!
ahah well maybe it did then sorry !!
Weird that you find this hard, I always thought this is one of the easiest 7A+ in the forest...
Maybe I just didn't find the beta, my friend Paul talks about a finger lock, I never found any :) It took me 15 minutes in total so not a struggle either, but on the send try it felt limit, maybe if I dial it better it will feel easy !
Du bonbon celui là, dans mes souvenirs ça feelait 6C, 6C+. Peut être que c'était 7A si le crimp a évolué
Non ça feelait moins que 7A indeed, et le bloc aurait pu être cool si la main droite était pas une lame de rasoir !!
Pas facile celui là!! c'est une question de taille de doigts pour le fingerlock
Ah c'est ptet pour ça que j'ai trouvé ça dur, j'ai pas lock la main droite j'étais en épaule 😅
Looks beautiful and hard, very cool
Thanks mate :)
I like the voice over! Do you also have a video of Talons Aiguilles?
Thanks mate !! Yes, I just uploaded it ! safer than the one from Filip ahah
HELL YEAH MAN! Now go and flash Lamia-san ;)
Hehe it's on the list! But first let's go do Trojan War...
shieeee- dats a strong boi
🤜🤛 hehe thanks mate !!
Hey, I just discovered your channel! I really like the videos and, as a tall boulderer myself, it's super informative to hear your perspective of why some boulders and moves are easier/harder for you. Keep it up! :)
thanks mate ! hope to see you in the forest :) :)
un peu de classe mec, stp
Felt better than it looked 😁