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No problems yet. I should've sprayed the threads with something though in case I ever need to adjust them or anything. I haven't been off roading with them but for sure they would take a beating if I did. These aren't cheap junk. Thick and heavy enough to the point if they did take a big rock you were trying to climb over that they most likely won't bend. The mounts on the frame and axle would fail before these. Really a good investment as far as I'm concerned. The only thing I didn't like about them is the only way to adjust them is to disconnect them but I guess that's a good thing. I also had to change the grease fittings to 90 degree on on end to be able to use them still while on the vehicle. It doesn't take some messing around to get it all figured out. I have more than the 6" fabtech too. I bolted in 3" spacers under the rear springs and the 3" leveling kit fabtech said do not install with their lift so I have about 9". I haven't had any problems that I can tell although the rear spring was pretty much touching the gas tank until I used these arms to push the axle back a half inch.

😂😂😂 from china

I'm glad I helped

Sorry, youtube has me shadow banned so I don't get notified of comments. Which crossmember are you talking about? The main member under the front end that has the Fabtech logo on it does have a slight curve almost bent looking. Everything else should be straight. Hard to believe you got it used because you have to cut the front differential mount off to install it as well as a piece on the frame so it's hard to go back to original. You'd have to buy a new front differential and weld the piece you cut of the frame back on.

No worries, yeah, the Hummer it came from the body was damaged, but the frame look good. They cut off that plate so I can reuse it. Yeah, it’s that bracket and then there is the one other one which I believe was the only two that came with it. I reached out to manufacturer, and supposedly both of them should have a slight bend to them.

That sucks. Yea it ended up being a loss for me too

@@james102377 yah now we have to worry about even the name brands being Chinese knockoffs, people are now basing their opinions on the quality based on the price

I had a new water pump installed 15k ago so I should be good there. My hoses all feel pretty good and look good. I have a new set but couldn't justify installing them. Took me two nights but I got it in and also replaced my condenser at the same time seeing I had a new one sitting in my basement for 2 years as well. I did run into another issue while I was heating it up to get the air out. One of my expensive stage 4 extreme cooling fans apparently had stopped working. I was pretty pissed after all that work because now I had to take it half apart again to replace the fan motor because of the ties that hold the bottom in and the fan itself has to be removed from the shroud via the inside to replace motor. On the bright side they have a lifetime warranty so I emailed the company the other night when I found it and next day they sent me out a new fan motor and ties which will arrive today. I've put so much work and money into this thing. I'm still paying the debt off even though I own it free and clear.....lol I'll have to do a video of my recent upgrades after. I aslo installed cognito idler and pitman arm supports a couple weeks ago.

Yup. The two holes don't line up with anything I've bought. I guess 2 single pics might work too but still getting the right screw is impossible and drilling pics again. There's only 2 gunsmiths around here im the city and they're backed up for weeks.

I did put metric screws in it after converting the 10-40. M5x0.5 but you can only get those in lengths that are to long which is why I had to make washers.

Yes. Even after running it for a week straight on high, the motor was real hot but never got to the point of burning up or anything. I was worried myself but I checked it constantly for days before I completely trusted it. Was always smelling it too. I'm guessing it's just the bearings heating it up but it's still going. Great fan huh?

@@james102377 yeah it's worth the money.

I got mine today , and I had it on for a few hours , the motor is hot . Is that normal or should I turn it off ???

It's normal. I'm still running mine. I've run it for a week straight and yea the motor is hot but it always stays the same hot even after a week.

I didn't get a notification of this comment I don't think. Cut the line behind the broken piece and heat it up with a heat gun and stuff the new one in? You might be able to use the heat gun to get the old one out instead of cutting and push new one in. I know you asked a month ago but youtube won't show me comment notifications and on what videos. Shadow banned.

The thing is if you can't see the blatant obvious lies out of Bidens mouth which apparently half the country can't, and you can't see the illegal election interference with lawfare and every other thing, you're blnd and only believe what they tell you and you're one sided not opening your eye's and looking at both sides. EVERYTHING Trump said during the debate was the truth yet every media channel said he lied.

You ever wonder why they never show Trump rallys on tv? So people like you won't see the truth.

Worst case scenario a seized motor but you could try to verify that by turning it ove by the crankshaft pulley. The starter could need shims but I haven't had to worry about shims since I was a teenager. Could also be the wire going to the starter motor itself has corroded off so just the solenoid is doing it's job. I had my Hummer H2, my uncle's silverado, and my side job bosses hummer h2 all had the wire to the starter motor corrode off with 3 month period. Solenoid would kick in but wouldn't crank because the wire going into the motor attached to it basically disintegrated. I learned my lesson putting in a new one. I sprayed the crap out of it with red dielectric spray.

Part number for what? Just go on their website. I ordered mine in in two parts. I got the rear spings first then the rest.

You're welcome. I wish I had more secrets to share. Most of the stuff I work on is beyond what an average mechanic can do so I don't even bother recording it. I haven't been able to take shortcuts in a while. Seems like every job I do is taking 8-16 hours for oil or antifreeze leaks. My hummer is my baby though

Someone else commented just cut the end off and put the new one on. For starters it's not like there's extra fuel line to work with and that plastic is so old and hard I wasn't taking any chances. Only had to do it because my fuel pump was rotted and leaking.

How u know fake or Chinese?

@@TurdCurdle if the price is too good to be true bet your ass there fake and will catch your vehicle on fire.

I'm glad I could help. I try to record oddball stuff that might help people. Haven't had much lately though. I think the last thing I did was an AC compressor not kicking on and turned out to be a wire broke in the top of the motor from rubbing the bolt head for years but alas not video. Was in a hurry because it was already sold.

When I bought them I had to be notified when they would be in stock again. I think they might wait for so many people looking and then make them in batches.

That was the ONLY place I could find them. I searched online for weeks.

Actually I just looked and they have them. Maybe you went to the wrong site? www.outfitterdesign.com/h2-front-differential-bushing-kit.html

Make sure it's turned the right way.

There's 2 nubs that face inward. You have to spread those lightly with a pick or small flathead to get it over the tube. If that's what you're talking about, that goes on the metal tube itself and still snaps into the black part one of two directions.

Yup, that's exactly what I did. Needs a new rim now but those are cheap enough at the junkyard. Had to pull out chunks and keep smacking the tire with a big hammer. All that mattered to me was not screwing up the stud. It did get somewhat worse though. 2 drill bits broke off in there while drilling.....lol

I know it's not a wrangler but it's definitely a Jeep thing....lmao

Did you get my number before I deleted it?

If you're sure it's charged it could be one of the pressure sensors. Easiest way to make sure it's not the clutch is to put power to the wire direct and see if it kicks on. That bypasses the sensors. Sometimes you can do it right at the fuse. If the wire is al powered then the clutch is probably bad.

It sucks. God forbid I ever need to do injectors on anything again and have to pay the big bucks for the good ones.....lol

If you have yours in front of you or the couplers from the parts store, you'd be able to see and tell what I was doing. Others understood and have done it.

If you bought it new in the box it comes with a metal loop and bolt. You screw the loop to the wall which is basically a hook then hang the fan on it and put the safety bolt through keeping the fan from coming out.

ruclips.net/user/shortsDhM1m3tRQRs?si=xopVTl-ylpjUNs_3

Made a quick vid for ya

I just turned the comments in for it too. Thought they were all on.

Make sure that lag bolt goes into a stud and not just drywall otherwise it will fall right off the wall making a nice little hole and probably ruin the fan. If you can find the stud, stud finders are fairly cheap which is what I had to use myself.

Those torsion keys were 3" leveling keys so there was excessive pressure on the torsion bar and had to be taken off completely to get the pressure off the lower control arm. My torsion crossmember that the keys sit up in, one side the steel is smooshed in from the previous owner and the adjusting bolt doesn't sit right either. When I have the money I'll probably have a machine shop fab me a better thicker new crossmember for the keys. Maybe some quarter inch steel. 3/8 probably be fine too.

Democrats in government who kept me poor for 90% of my life.

@@james102377Oh noo the evil democrats didnt brush your teeth?

@@james102377the fluoride in the water

I don't drink water which explains my ability to think freely seeing fluoride calcifies your pineal gland which explains why democrats are brainwashed morons

@@james102377 none of this is true, seek mental help.

It's just about any chrysler vehicle lately it seems. This crap started with my jeep compass spending several hours smoke testing and could smell it but never see it. Ended up being the same problem in a Caliber and think I'm up to 4 Grand Cherokees now even though I lack video. My neighbor has same evap code but doesn't want to drop his tank. He said his is so bad he smells gas non-stop.

Run a somewhat thick jumper wire across those big fuses bypassing them and try. Make sure it's a good connection. You can't even tell these things are burnt out or possibly corroded off. Everything looked normal but that wasn't the case. I think when I tried a multimeter it showed power but it was still bad. I'm assuming it burnt out enough to barely make a connection and when you try to start it heated up and broke the connection like a turn signal relay.

Make sure your battery is good too because a junk battery will show good voltage but can't handle a load and will have similar problems.

@@james102377I found that out also and had to go to Walmart to get an extra start H6 for a $179 bucks fired right up with the new fuse plate and runs and shift’s better too these are very sophisticated vehicles and have multiple modules and a weak or regular battery just won’t do

No. Everything lit up like it was going to start then nothing when the start button was pushed. The starter itself was worn and sloppy on the gear and shaft so I'm assuming it has a jammed up start the drew too much and blew the fuse in the block which you can't replace without replacing the whole thing.

Fuse plate that sits on top of the battery change it got mine off eBay for $14 bucks free shipping local stealership wanted almost 6 times as much plus tax lol but hey mines fixed now because of this gentleman here 🤔⚠️💯

Is that you Morin? If you're swapping out the whole control arm it is a pain in the you know what because of the whole shock setup if you're talking about the stock arm. It's getting onto the nuts and or bolts and if they've been in there forever they're probably rusted to the sleeves. I can't remember without watching my own video but pretty sure I had to use torches and cut them out without destroying the thin steel they bolt through. They weren't your average steel bolt and nut and took a lot of heat to melt. My sawzall wouldn't do anything to them except ruin the blade. Once those bolts are out it's not to bad I guess.

It's going to cost Massachusetts a billion dollars a year to do what they're doing. They only took in 46 million in taxes last year and over charged and had to return 6 million to the people because of a law put in place yesrs ago. New York is giving out 10 times as much to illegals. The shit will hit the fan before the election in November so they can keep Trump out. That's the only reason they're giving so much. These sanctuary cities are going to burn to the ground when that time comes. Surrounding states just need to be prepared because 50 to 100k illegals per state are massive armies that even our army can't handle.

Especially if it's too much trouble to get the whole line out and you can manage it while it's still in the vehicle. I had to drop my tank for the fuel pump anyways and the metal piece broke off inside the line so I had to dig it out.

@james102377 I got them pieces to get the O rings my good brother...the yellow o rings did nt fit...was to small..

The orings were to small? I almost think they sold 2 different sizes. If that's the case then it's probably the other size. I almost think I had to measure the outlet to make sure I got the right size.

I just looked on ebay and Amazon and I do see fuel line quick connects from 1/4" to 5/8" so you'd definitely want to measure the outlet

@james102377 man u are swell dude big bro..thxz for info

You are welcome! If you aren't already subscribed I'd appreciate it.

Lol

agreed

I rebuilt that frame right there and about 3 more feet. It's more solid now than the original.

I don't know if Ford purposely designed it like this or what. Most of the F-150's I've been working on are all rotting out in the same spot and like the previous video I made on this truck saying how the water runs down the frame from this point forward and ends up running off the sides of the frame into any openings and down into the frame keeping it constantly wet or damp along with any salt or dirt that managed to build up inside the frame. It's a recipe for rot.

Yea. I'm guessing that's part of the reason for the price of them. They're very specific of the requirements you must meet like original purchaser and vehicle, has to come from an authorized dealer not some joe blow on ebay etc. That's my only concern with the warranty. I don't even remember where I got mine already. I think I got it direct for that reason....lol

I just realized I misunderstood your comment. Yes. If you read their warranty it says something like jump it race it beat it beat the shit out of it....lol so off road yes.