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I heard this a while back, Nate...thought it was beautiful then, and - it still is, maybe even more so now. There certainly is no shortage of Talent, and Artistry within You my friend!

A well timed video Nate. I have tried my hand at antiquing and done exactly as you have done. So I will now attempt your method which might rescue the Violin. But if I fail then I’ll strip it all off, not a drama no body died. This will be be my second attempt at antiquing this violin, which I’ve stripped once before. I’m discovering it’s a very subtle process which requires restraint, very easy to get over enthusiastic with removing varnish. The fact is I enjoy the varnishing process so it’s another chance for more practice. Thank you for demonstrating and sharing your methods. 👍

Estoy muy contento de tenerte de nuevo con tus proyectos, ideas y humor,Salud

Vorsichtig Katze🐱👍

What about a very thin wipe down of boiled linseed oil and then the uv for a week, and then spirit varnish? I was told that attempting boiled linseed was tricky as you dont want to saturate the wood as it will cause the wood to go black over time, but if you use a little, essentially as a medium to moisten the rag with to get dust and slightly burnish the instrument, is just enough to raise the grain and allow it to harden slightly within that week span of UV or 5600 kelvin box light, and most times the little bit that hasnt hardened will get wiped up and away with the spirit as the spirit varnish is applied, which thats usually the typical method of cleanin boiled linseed oil up(spirit or mineral spirit)

Dear Tabor,I just discover you on RUclips and the idea of reflecting from the back seem interesting to try it.When you talk about alcalin varnish ,do you mean shellack or another kind of varnish.If I understand you put varnish only in the back ?Mario Lamarre luthier

Very nice video. What is the purpose of using lavander oil? Thx a lot

I saw this the other day, and just watched it now. It's funny, I saw it after I put some photos of a bridge I made for a 39cm viola I'm making into a post on maestronet on Stamm bridges. I was going to say some guy on youtube told me, "Don't be a chump, make your own bridge!" But I didn't. No comments about the bridge. I used curly spruce one time. It was so curly, that planing the wedge for the join, there were just even waves of grain on the entire length, that curled the entire width. It wasn't too hard to carve. Your video on using a roller to varnish was cool too.

Thanks for the company today, I was varnishing. I always learn a lot from your insight and artistry.

Hi Nate... I am puzzled that you chose to sell off your bandsaw but will use the more inferior jigsaw. I've been a woodcarver for most of my life. I am also an Alaskan Native. My native people were adaptable if nothing. I know historically, craftspeople from the earliest days forward, even to this day, would NOT have hesitated to adapt and adopt new woodworking methods and tools. They took and used them if they thought that it might improve their work and make it easier for them. Luthiers especially, were always experimenting and creating brand new woodworking tools to improve their craft. The line of woodworking tools expanded exponentially throughout history because of luthiers. When they did NOT have a tool to suit their needs, they experimented and began making their own unique style of tools. Tools that were developed to make their work easier and more efficient. This is a huge part of the reasons that we have so many different varieties of woodworking and woodcarving tools today. I have no doubt that your predecessors would not have hesitated to get a bandsaw if it was available and start using it. They would use such a tool and master its capabilities. If they saw a need to improve upon its design, they would explore, experiment and make changes that they thought might be beneficial to improving how a bandsaw might work. My people especially, are no different. We have always been open to new things like tools, equipment, clothing, manufacturing and making things. If we saw purpose and beneficial uses for new things, we accepted and learned how to use them. Any master craftsman and woodworker knows this instinctively and is why you see so many woodworkers adopting and learning how to use new woodworking machines, products and tools. Nate, I would encourage you to reconsider not having a bandsaw in your shop. I know it would be far less frustrating and definitely more accurate than what those crude electric jigsaws can do. It will make your life far easier and your work more enjoyable.😊 I don't use my bandsaw too much. But I won't get rid of it because it's an important part of my power tool collection and is very handy to have around. And I am ALWAYS grateful to have it when I need it. It's far more important to have it and not need it, than it is to need it and not have it... wouldn't you say? Nice video. But you need more video cameras to film you from different angles I think. The static one view shots are OK. But having a nice little series of video cameras throughout your shop as you work offers a variety of different angles and makes your storytelling more interesting. 2 cameras are better than 1. 3 cameras opens the creative doors of storytelling on film. Yeah, I know... you're too busy. The multiple camera suggestions are just suggestions and ideas. Please Nate, take good care and be well. James of Homer Alaska

Beautiful color! I also love the roller technique quite a lot and I'm definitely gonna need a Duck! 😅

I have a 1855 Francois Caussin cello, and I would like my cello to be glossy. What should apply? shellac or oil varnish?

Rock on, Brother !!!!!!

maybe a xilography roller would charge less varnish, these are made of rubber and dont leave any texture but spread xilographic ink (which is can be similar in thickness to oil varnish) nicely on the blocks. The process is similar.

I once applied shellac to a guitar with the roller, and it looked very good, but for a complex varnish I wouldn't dare, I'm not a professional, it must be applied by someone very experienced like you.

Amazing, I really like that color. Are you going to rub outl gloss and mass from the varnish, or do you already consider it finished?

Thank you; your inside treatment makes a lot of sense being the physics seem to be surface tensions at the end. Very helpful instructions.

I like seeing your work. Thanks.

Also how many shellac coats will you eventually put on? I am now wary of the “too orange” look after watching your vids.

I like your attitude that this will be exciting. For me it would be semi terrifying. Do you know if you can add colour like black to shellac using artist oil paint?

I'm a fan of your 360p HD videos. Also a fan of your baroque instruments.

Hey! I really love your videos and I think your varnishes look absolutely great! It's so cool to see your process of antiquing and get all the ideas what to try and wich products to use... And of course you get to know, when to be CAREFUL 😅! Thanks for sharing your wisdom and providing a nice fun entertainment for my coffee break ☕! cheers, Peter

I cannot thank you enough for your videos. You're so knowledgeable and willing to explain things in such detail. The why's so to speak. I am about to try my own amateurish attempt at reviving an old violin that was my wife's great grandfather's. Nothing special, just one of those old sazuki violins from 1920's. But one of the better ones I think since the wood has a lot of that "tiger strips" on the back. Luckily not a crack on it after all this. But the man was a fiddler at heart and he played that violin every single day for nearly 70 years before he passed. So as someone who doesn't have a luthier within 100+ miles of me. Thank you for these videos. I will definitely be watching every single one of them!

Hotter than most women ❤️🔥😂

Hotter than most women ❤️🔥😂

Hotter than a lot of women❤😂

What about the diamond shaped dark mark on the top underneath the fingerboard? It looks like you intentionally put it there.

Hi, thank you for the instruction. I was curious about your 50/50 ratio of shellac and alcohol. Is that by volume or weight? Thank you

Mr. Tabor, you need to remove that baggy, saggy sweater when working with high power tools. I've seen first hand how fast power tools grab clothing, and have witnessed first hand how fast and extensive the damage can be. It only takes a split second... Please sir, be safe... always! I severed a finger on a band saw because I got distracted. I was lucky because the finger was successfully reattached and I gained full use and mobility with the damaged hand. I am afraid for you because I know first hand and also as a witness, exactly how power tools can turn deadly in less than an instant. Please, safety first, foremost and always. Wear protective equipment always. I cut my seashells and bone on my cabbing machine, which uses water on a diamond blade to cut... no toxic dust. Bone dust is slightly toxic, but can quickly clog the airways of your sinuses and your longs. And, you could also get very sick from the smoke produced from grinding.

As always. Explaining how he does it, but not why it produces the desired effect, sort of physical explanation is lacking. Evidence, research - nothing. Real knowledge and convincing evidence comes only after comparing the same thing BEFORE and AFTER, doing several tests with different instruments.

Hi Nate! Is it good to do it on new instruments as well? Luthiers put casein, calcium hydrates, etc... Is it good to apply a thin layer of shellac on it? I don't make violins, etc., but folk instruments called Tamburitza. All kind. And some old masters used glass powder with shellac, for better resonance. You take a glass bottle and grind it into powder with a hammer, as much as you can. You filter the broken glass through a dense sieve and mix it with shellac and spread a thin layer on the bottom board.

Happy New Year 2024, with many wishes, happiness and health! Nut recipe: Buy cuted bones without joints. Boil the bones to remove the fat several times. Change the water each time. Then put the bones without fat in clean water and add laundry detergent, depending on how many bones you have, add 1/2 tea cup to 2 kg of bones. The dry bone should be completely white, if not repeat the process with a detergent. Voila!

Nate the lavender oil you use, is it perfume type of oil? When searching online the oil I've seen is advertised as a perfume oil. Will this work? Thanks again

Servus! I wrote a comment on how to get a bone for making nuts from a raw beef bone. I don't see it now.

Hi!

My dad always used 50/50 thinner to varathane. Of course this was for marine varnish. He wasn't vanishing a violin. So basically I know nothing about vanishing violins. I would think one would do first couple of coats 50/50 so the varnish could penetrate the wood. And then you could make the varnish a little thicker once the wood was sealed. My philosophy is that with a violin any oil will dampen the resonance so I would think an alcohol shellac would be quicker drying and respond better to sound. But I may be mistaken. I've never varnished a violin in the white. I don't have a need right now but very curious. I have experience with oil painting and varathane and damar varnish but no real knowledge of violin varnish. I am broadening my knowledge of vanishing wooden sailboats and I am sure musical instruments are completly different. I have used camel hair brushes before and always started out lean but then got too much varnish on the brush. I almost think the airbrush would give a more even coat but I've heard contrary opinions so maybe brush is still superior for vanishing instruments. Thanks for doing this vidio. I hope to one day make my own violin but there are so many materials nessasary.thanks for the informstion.😅

Is the paper part cotton and part from wood pulp? Or does it even matter? Also, does it matter what pound paper is used? I've been a printer before. Different pounds of paper refer to the thicknesses of the paper. Why not use dollar bills?

The appearance of the instrument does not change the sound. Now it has become fashionable to make a new instrument look like an old one. It's just a trick, how to sell a new instrument for a lot more money, and the sound is less important. It's a very hard job if it's worth it and if you have a customer. All five for the work and the video, thank you very much! 

At this point, "defective" viola wasnt a damaged viola, its a better viola than a new viola with a smooth plain surfaced violas

Eu gostei muito do trabalho parabéns

The first coats of varnish on this viola was they applied the same way as you did on the antiqued cello? I have three violins nearing completion so i will be attempting your method. Thank you for demonstrating this .

Gracias tío, muy útil información

Im only happy when my violin looks like the side of an old barn... super helpful video, thanks 💚🙂

Thank you for the video! This is my favorite part of the process.

I half thought this video was gonna be like the one with that one hot girl who taps & rubs every part of the SUV & people mimicking it 😂 You should do it with the viol da gamba

Nate loves cats!...I knew it😊. Beautiful cat work 👍

What is the original thickness of the ribs?

Can you tell the name of the Florenz Maker ( i live there)

Affascinante

Wow, what a great serie of video, thanks for posting them! Just found them now. Totally agree with your idea of “personal” sound and character, and that bit of roughness and bumpy ness… I got this from strings experience (less perfect are better) and also a friend bass on player who making reeds told me that those looking perfect are never the best… thanks again, very generous of you posting!