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Thanks for checking out my video! Your comment made my week! I edited the videos like I would want someone else to. I'm always looking for details about what the person is using in a video and sometimes they don't tell you. I got a great deal on the 2x10s and they are just butted up against each other. I'm happy with how it came out.

HI Scott thanks for checking out my video. Too bad about the leak. Sounds like a lot of critters, snakes, mice, etc found an entrance into some place warm. Its going to be a nice place when you are done and you will never forget what it was. I'd love to see what you've done there. I'm with you about not having neighbors nearby. I rather have less house and more land than more house and less land.

Thanks! There is exposed conduit painted black under two of the LVL beams that connect to track lighting. I'm happy with how it came out.

HI Herb thanks for checking out my video and complimenting my sandwich. I've also heard that. That you want 1-1/2 inch purchase. With an inch penetration that is holding the roof sheathing down, we are worrying about uplift or sideways force. Won't it be shocking if the roof blows away? And the perimeter of sheathing is screwed directly into the crazy-of-me 2x10 box I made. You might be right about the R value being less than R50. Still, compared to just fluffy insulation, in the summer and winter, I have electric heat and my bill is always less than $100 a month. I'm getting excellent performance in return of the time and money invested insulating and air sealing.

"𝘋𝘦𝘱𝘦𝘯𝘥𝘪𝘯𝘨 𝘰𝘯 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘫𝘶𝘳𝘪𝘴𝘥𝘪𝘤𝘵𝘪𝘰𝘯, 𝘮𝘰𝘴𝘵𝘭𝘺 𝘭𝘪𝘬𝘦𝘭𝘺 𝘵𝘩𝘦𝘺 𝘸𝘪𝘭𝘭 𝘳𝘦𝘲𝘶𝘪𝘳𝘦 𝘵𝘩𝘦 𝘪𝘮𝘣𝘦𝘥𝘥𝘦𝘥 𝘥𝘦𝘱𝘵𝘩 𝘰𝘧 1 ½ 𝘪𝘯𝘤𝘩𝘦𝘴" As he mentioned, there is no inspection for the building. That doesn't mean he did anything illegal either. The UCC as adopted by PA exempts fully detached accessory buildings up to 1000sf from building permits and structural inspection as long as you follow setback and permeable area requirements. Some municipalities lower the exemption threshold to 250 or so square feet, and many urban/suburban areas of PA may even require a permit for a tiny prebuilt garden shed. The more rural an area of PA is, like where I live(and I'm assuming the same for the OP's location), the more likely the municipality is to follow the state limit. To be clear, that particular exemption to the UCC only applies to fully detached accessory buildings that aren't used as habitable space. There are also some other exemptions for 'recreational cabins' and private agricultural buildings though. Things like ADU's or mother-in-law suites are all subject to permits, inspection and require CO's regardless of their size. From his other videos the OP appears to be using this as a personal music studio/man cave rather than living space, which falls under the accessory building exemption.

Thanks for checking out my video. I'm aware of those but it works for cavity insulation. You wouldn't be able to do a 900sq ft continuous layer like I did. You would have rafters running in between each cavity. More heat loss.

Thanks for checking out my video. The black stuff on top of the 2x10s was roofing felt. 15# is pretty inexpensive and quick. I didn't know if the 2x10s would shrink more being in a conditioned space. They ended up shrinking a tiny bit and you can't see the felt. You dont have to be careful walking on the rigid insulation. The only damage I did was when I was carrying them. Really glad I added rigid foam under the slab too. I use electric for heat and a/c. The electric bill is always under $100/m.

Thanks for sharing. I'm going to check it out.

Thanks for checking out my video and the kind words. I'd love to see your space when its done. Good luck!

I am bemused by this construction, the guy clearly hasn't got a clue what he is doing and there is no idea what he wants to achieve, he seems to be making it up as he goes along.

Thanks for checking out my video. There are interior french doors that are single pane. Those will fog up. IF its an exterior french door, double pane, it'll help keep heat/cooling inside and shouldn't fog up.

HI Mike There is also a website where you can add calculations. Forte Web by Weyerhauser. It was free at the time. Maybe still. It will help you design it and see if the space works and then avoid going back and forth with the engineer. Have an engineer check your work.

Thanks for checking out my video. I didnt seal the 2x10s. The rigid foam layers over them are all taped and each layer a staggered seam. I had found a great deal on the 2x10s and thats why I went that route. IF I found a great deal on 1x6 or 1x8 t&g maybe I would of went that way. I like that the 2x10s add strength to the roof though. Also If it was 1x boards I probably wouldnt of been able to walk on it to add the foam and would of had tighter spacing of the lvl joists.

Thanks! I'd love to see the progress of your build. Foam shrinks a little over time so its good to do 2 layers with staggered seams vs 1 layer.

Thanks for checking out my video. Yes the extra money and time insulating and air sealing instantly starting paying me back. We get 4 seasons here and even in the winter with the minisplit using electric to heat the building, it is less than $100/m.

Thanks!

Hi neighbor. The guy that did the concrete did not recommend ICF and it seemed that that would be a more expensive way to go . I also didn't want foam on the inside of the concrete. The concrete walls and floor that are all inside rigid foam, are at a steady 68 degrees like the inside of the building. It supposedly stores the heat and helps keep the building a consistent temperature for less heating and cooling costs. After a number of years now, using only electric to heat and cool with the minisplit - I spend less than $100/m on average on electric. Thats including all the other stuff that uses electric too. Would do it again. Does someone in the area even sell those ICF's or do you have to get them shipped? I didn't want to try and build the ICF lego block walls and order concrete for the first time. Thanks for checking out my video .

@@POCONOPOWERCORD yea I'm sure he didn't recommend because he loses out on money lol. Great job in any event.

@@jpatt5054 Totally possible. I've had a hard time hiring people. Seems people only want to do what they know. IF I would of tried to hire someone to do anything high performance, I'd prob still be looking.

Thanks for checking out my video. I like the way 1 lvl looks over doubled 2x10s or 2x12s.

Not sure what you mean. You need to fasten the siding to something other than the foam. The furring strips will also help you fasten the foam to the outside, plus give you a thermal bridge and air gap to help drying. I think with the hot sun on the siding, the air gap helps you keep building cool. The furring strips go along the wall even with the framing. Possibly my other videos could help it click for you. Thanks for checking out my videos.

Thanks man. It's crazy these things live in our woods.

Thanks man. Wasnt sure if it would be worth editing and putting on youtube.

​@@POCONOPOWERCORDperhaps the only thing initially that would have been an improvement would be "fender washers" or some sort of 4" wide plate with a hole in center to prevent the screws from just pulling through the foam... Other than that I can't wait to see how it does ..what are your thoughts about moisture? Did you consider putting some sort of tyvek or other in case moisture from inside comes up and gets trapped?

​​@@POCONOPOWERCORDI am very interested in your experience, I am looking to create a log cabin "mobile" home (for R-rating, & strength) [using Shou sugi ban is a particularly striking method of preserving wood by charring it with fire.] on a flat semi trailer then tyvek, (then possible 1/4" space then one layer of rigid foam, then marine(cortan?) shipping container exterior. I plan on taking this to Alaska and wanted a very durable, and fairly resistant to entry by big creatures AND the severe cold... and possibly south into heat and high moisture... The advantage of semi trailer base is many: HIGH weight capacity, so the "Milled Beams/flat side Log walls and ceilings shouldn't be a weight issue.. but moisture is definitely a concern and the more extreme the weather or season or amount of moisture inside increases the concern... Part of the decision to use the milled beam as the interior finish to allow some breathability while also preventing areas where condensation could build up. Windows would be the MOST obvious first issue/point of condensation, then door latches, hinges, etc ... All electric and plumbing is planned to be exposed on the INTERIOR SURFACE of the milled log wall to prevent thermal bridging/condensation and obvious freeze thaw issues ... The same to be applied to all battery bays, and storage, water tanks compartments, etc -- which will be a particular challenge as anything that is NOT inside the "above" trailer deck "home" runs into additional points of contact with metal of trailer and additional possible areas of hidden moisture both from within and from outside traveling along metal and certainly openings that pass through from subfloor compartments to "home box" would have to be made additionally larger to cover the edges of the opening with the full amount of R-value insulation and moisture barrier... Obviously electric floor heating in the bottom of ALL subfloor compartments would help reduce condensation during cold - but certainly some sort of venting or air flow should be considered carefully...both to prevent fumes entering "home" air, but also for other issues. One issue that I intend to address is the battery and electric compartment being both insulated for R-value equivalent but ALSO to isolate via NON FLAMMABLE materials...and steel basin that is situated and plumbed to be "flooded" in the event of a thermal/fire event especially IF lithium batteries end up being used ... But to have the entire bank or multiple banks on a sliding draw so that if there is and issue that it can be slide OUT and drop OFF up to six feet or so away from trailer... (I am sure you have seen/ heard of the spontaneous issues that can arise with lithium batteries...

Hello from America. Thanks for checking out my video. That sounds like a fun project. Sounds like you could hit that building with a missile and it would be fine. You are lucky to find people in your area to do this type of work with extra steps. I'm now hungry for an italian sub.

Thanks Chris appreciate it.

Thanks. The black? We couldn't think of a better color.

Thanks I felt behind schedule because of Covid delays so skipped setting up the camera a bunch during the build. I wish I took the time to. Wow an earthship??!! With all the tires with rammed dirt in them? That sounds like a cool project. I'd love to follow the build on youtube.

Thanks for checking out my video. This is probably the part of the build that I spent the most time researching. Warm roof ? Cold roof? I'm an amateur and this was the first time building something from the ground up. So i'd get professional advice. It also depends with climate zone you are in. I found a lot of reliable info from greenbuildingadvisor and FHB and JLC. There were articles and forum topics about cathedral roofs and how to insulated them correctly.

YEah this stuff will drive you nuts because you dont want to have to re-do it later. I think its smart to obsess about getting it right. You will severely decrease the life of the home if it can't dry. From what I remember reading from professionals, is to only use plastic vapor barriers under concrete slabs. You don't want to stop water vapour from moving through your wall. It's not going to be your air barrier or insulation that stops cold from coming in. For walls, plastic is almost always unnecessary or even detrimental. What is super interesting is that when you use a vapor barrier, it doesn't need to be installed airtight. IF you use it in a crawl space, read articles about. I think I'm remembering that correctly, that it needs to cover a majority of the space to be affective. IF there are some holes poked in it, its still affective. The way my building was designed, my walls dry to the inside. They are inside the thermal break and rigid insulation. IF I added plastic inside the studs, it would turn into a mushroom farm. Good luck with your project. I'd love to hear how it goes.

​@POCONOPOWERCORD I suspect that because you're leaving the rafters exposed, you should be fine with respect to drying. I did 4" of polyiso on my roof, but I'll be drywalling the ceilings, so I put a vapor diffusion port at the apex of my shed style roofs. I covered just the port slit with 4" of rockwool comfortboard, so it's vapor open and then used Dorken Delta-Trela over that. Vapor diffusion ports are only code for climate zones 1-3. I'm in 4. I'm pretty confident it will work though. Are you going to do a rain screen over the zip decking?

whats up dude. thanks for checking out my channel

Hey Jonny thanks for checking out my video. I can never go back either after air sealing and using foam insulation. What a difference right??!!

Thanks for checking out my video. Sorry I go on and on. If you start at 3:10 I start to list the fasteners I used. I also go over how.

Mark thanks for checking out my video. Thats a great idea on getting the long screws straight.

I was worried about my contractor driving 8 inch screws through my wall assembly straight. I also suggested a jig. They scoffed at me. I'll admit, they didn't miss a single stud. Really impressed. If I had to do it, I'd drill press two holes in a 4x4, then use a mitre saw to cut down the halfway point of each hole. Slap a hinge holding the two pieces together as a single hole and put a hasp on the other side. That way you can get the screw going perfectly perpendicular every time and you can easily remove the jig once it's started.

Thanks for checking out my video. All of Mike's videos are helping if not entertaining. Good luck with your home.

Thanks for checking out my videos. I've been meaning to add up all the costs but afraid to know what that number is.

Hahaha Thanks Prawn Star. Man I could eat like 1000 prawns right now.

@@POCONOPOWERCORD 🤣

OH wow thanks for sharing. I haven't heard that. It makes sense though doesn't it? If the screws are mixed with angles you would have strength from different places you might have uplift. Wind can come from the north, east, south, west.... We never stop learning and innovating!

Love the angled screw idea. You'd end up with crazy long screws in this application though. Would be hard to find. Way stronger, but probably overkill AF.

Thanks for checking out my videos. That was my original plan like you said. Nail to the sill and use the back fill to also hold in place. I heard GreenBuildingAdvisor recommending that. Yeah EPDM gasket vs the foam one seems like an obvious choice. I was just hearing recently on the FHB podcast how a homeowner had a draft all coming from the sill plate gasket. The EPDM one is not more more money! I was debating editing and narrating these videos. I'm glad it turned out people wanted to hear about what I learned.

@@POCONOPOWERCORD Excellent, thanks. Glad to know that foam plan would work.

Tre Thanks for sharing! Thats really cool to hear about. Never thought of using as a sky light. Yeah flashing that must be a little extra work!

There is so much here that I appreciate and am curious about - detail wise, on a couple other builds I’m sure you’ve done. I’m a small GC/carpenter with acute interest in projects just like that for up-scaling material we already have.. there’s something noble about it. I’m about to use an exterior 8’ Anderson door, full lite horizontally installed w/ hinges up top attached to the header and awning struts to assist the opening. Curious if you’ve toyed around with something like that! Thank you for sharing !!

Interesting idea, but one I have never thought of. The only issue I see would be the threshold as a continuous wrap around jam would be required for weather sealing and esthetics. Removing the threshold and fabricating a replacement piece would be required. Pretty simple fix. Closing and standoff hardware would be needed and an interior screen assembly would be needed. Let us know how it went. @@YungFunk

@@TreDeuce-qw3kv Will do! I’ll be using the jamb material from the opposite side of the hinge to sub in where I’ll remove the threshold, then the new horizontal threshold will be some creative engineering of solid core door material & large left over beams that I should be able to put together correctly to allow a nice weather seal & allow some movement, but it’ll only need it for air tight because it’s in a kitchen-covered patio wall, 16’ from exterior elements. I’ll let ya know how it goes!