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If it works, I think it's a fine idea! We've all had to work with what we have to make something happen in less than ideal situations!

Done that too, but it makes me more willing to modify it if it needs refinement.

Harbor freight is actually becoming one of my main line & more respected tool shops. I don't really buy any of their pneumatic or electric stuff, but where the heck else are you going to get left-handed drill bits, safety torx bits by the 100ct, cheap rubber mallets, etc, etc - I still fall into the same trap as everybody else by going to Lowe's or Home Depot first, but when I have searched absolutely everywhere and can't find a tool? "I'll bet Harbor Freight has it!" Might be Chinesium, but AT LEAST IT FRIGGEN EXISTS

There's actually a big market for that. Go look at handmade blacksmithing hammers and accessories.

Fixed is better than broke!

Ten separate thousandths. AKA one hundredth. 0.01"

And they're both designed to hit something metallic...

Hahaha

I love that!

The earliest hammers were rocks...

ask a hammer's opinion on it

Exactly!

Everyone has one of those friends... this does work surprisingly well!

There's a lot going on with this little thing! When I feel tendon issues coming on, I'll put this on the tendon setting and the afflicted tendons get tingly in a good way. It's really cool stuff and there's way more than can be said on here. Call me sometime and I can tell you more.

All of the Topdons have a flashlight. No worries there!

Still learning lessons over and over!

Over a year in with ATF and no sign of issues at this point. The factory service manual called out ATF, so I don't think there's much of an issue. It's all a hydraulic fluid with some minor differences.

@@SnowFamilyRacing okay sounds good. Maybe 65 is different then. My 69 chassis service manual says power steering fluid. I once had a 68 Riv with ATF in it, started leaking real bad and find out about the right fluid. Also i noticed that the steering became lighter with the power steering fluid.

Glad it worked like it was supposed to!

I'm likely to opt for a new Nodular Iron third member over a used truck third member. I've watched more than a few stock truck third members meet their end on the starting line.

I agree. I should have said "truck style with Daytona support" so you get 3.062 31 spline, etc..

@@SnowFamilyRacing Ford 8.8 shorten on one side is pretty good for street tires also with factory disc brakes.

Hard to not improve the toughness over the 7.5!

Yep, the 8.2" and other smaller diameter 10 bolts from the ABody era also suffered similar issues under bigger power. When I had the 12 bolt next to the 10 bolt, there was so much more material everywhere.

This car came with 2.41's. In a previous iteration, it was a mid 15 second car and I could eighth mile in 1 gear! There isn't a tire short enough to get the rpm up to really make it work. In theory, it might survive. In actual practice, that's a different thing!

@@SnowFamilyRacing Wow 2.41's ya there is no tire small enough to fix that lol.

Yeah, I was 17 and slowly making the car quicker. I went from 2.41's to 3.73's and broke into the 13's. It's been a progression to the mid to high 12's.

@@SnowFamilyRacing thats pretty good.

I'm sure that it'll do very well for a very long time, especially at the power level it's getting run at.

There's a link in the description that will take you right to the parts I used.

I don’t know how I missed it. Thank you

It really is a cool tool. I've used this to drive a roll pin into a shaft that was nearly impossible to swing a hammer due to the it's placement. It's surprisingly good about being delicate.

That's an odd ball rear end! I don't think I'd go out of my way to put one in something when there is way more support for other ones.

I'm impressed at how long the cracks were there before it let go! The darker areas of the broken tooth tell me that there's likely other teeth that are on their way to destruction.

You may want to verify that the plugs and wires are in good shape first. Are you sure they're electrically dead and not something like a valve train issue?

@@SnowFamilyRacing Thanks for replying! I pulled the heads to have them checked, they checked ok. Will make sure wires and plugs are good, even though I checked that months ago, and just adjusted the rockers, will start it in the next few days, but I heard from a tech that the issue may be the ignition module. I have compression and fuel pressure

The ignition module isn't likely to drop 2 cylinders consistently unless the magnetic pickup is damaged on the reluctor for those 2 cylinders. My experience is that the module is typically all or nothing. I've seen one go bad more slowly, but that was a very rare case. My gut says that there's a simple oversight there. I do want to say, it's very hard to diagnose this stuff over the internet.

@@SnowFamilyRacing Reluctor, is that part of the module?. All this started when I left water in the engine during the winter, the block cracked, I noticed after I stopped and check the oil, water and oil mixed, I thought due to the water inside the engine, it couldnt rev up, well, got a new block, transfered everything to the new block, and it still does the same, not reeving past 2700 rpm and 2 dead cylinders. ECM checked ok. Thanks again for your replys

Okay... you just brought up ECM. What year and size engine are you working on? ECM's totally changes the game... now there could be whole multitude of things that get added to the issue. In an older HEI, the reluctor triggers the magnetic pickup. It is inside the distributor with the magnetic pickup. It's got 8 points on it.

That's probably a cost effective way to get a project running. MSD has their street fire line, which is more budget friendly. I can't speak to the module quality as it's not the module used in this video.

The regulator is different, and the mechanism is a little bit different between the manual and power window. The adjustments are all the same.

A quick search shows that the adjustable rotors are available for the small cap stuff,and I didn't actually see an adjustable rotor for a large cap HEI.

I like Fowler! They feel good, and they're consistent at a typically mid range price tag. I've got a lot of Fowler measuring tools.

Most of the tolerancing works out best in inch, I'm also biased from years of professionally cutting metal.

So glad to be able to help! These things are pretty simple and easy to figure out with some basic trouble shooting.

Basically, it's the same door! These beasts are heavy!

About thr only doors heavier than a 2 door Gbody is the 2 door Bbody of the same era... those were a little bit longer than the already ridiculously long G body doors.

That would have been awesome to do like that!

I did this quite a few years back, I don't remember if I took the pitman off. I'm pretty sure you don't have to!

And the support in the event that something goes wrong is far better than those you mentioned. I've talked with 2 of the highest up guys at Topdon USA and they're awesome guys that really know their stuff and are very willing to help get things to work right.

If you're having trouble with warm or hot starts, there's other things to look at like timing, mixture, fuel overheating in the bowl, how does the starter sound... that's a different beast and adjusting the choke isn't going to do much.

Until this one wears out, I'll keep using it. When it's spun it's last bolt, I'll probably get a Skil to match the rest of my battery tools.

@SnowFamilyRacing the thought it was a great ratchet for the price. And also the skil ratchet looks great. They even advertise the hand torque