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You get it. Thank you!

Uhh yep

The frame was already tacked to the plywood. Sure, you could sub-assemble the frame using pocket screws or something, but that would take much longer.

@@ScharrerWoodCo. Then protocol needs changed altogether.

@@ScharrerWoodCo. It doesn't take longer. Build the frame, pocket-screwed or however you think you want to assemble it. I prefer pocket screws. Of course, make sure it is square. Then lay your brace board underneath, trace it, cut it, then screw in place to the pre-assembled frame.

Less time, better result.

Thank you!

It wasn’t staged buddy. Also I bought the saw used thanks buddy

@@ScharrerWoodCo. okie dokie brand new clothing+gear artichokee

​@@ScharrerWoodCo.Douch canoe buddy

Yes, it has to do with the way the log is laying or suspended. In this case, the log is suspended and nothing is supporting the end. All the weight on the unsupported end is causing severe internal compressive forces on the bottom half of the log and tensile forces on the top half. In other words, the wood fibers in the top half are pulling on each other, and the fibers on the bottom are pushing on each other. Once the tensile fibers fail or are severed, the end of the log will drop. To prevent the compression wood from tearing out when the end drops, we cut some of the compression wood on the bottom before cutting the tension wood at the top. If you tried to cut ALL the compression wood first (bottom half of log), the tension fibers would stretch, the end of the log would drop a little bit, and the gap caused by your chainsaw cut would close and cause your bar to bind.

It depends on a ton of factors… species, thickness, grain orientation, the initial moisture content of the freshly cut wood, intended use of the wood, the drying environment, time of year, and the list goes on. For ash it can take 60-160 days for 4/4 lumber to air dry down to 15-25% in northern climates like mine. To reach the 7% needed for interior use, such as flooring or furniture, a kiln is needed. To go from 15-25% down to 7% in a kiln, it can take an additional 1-2 weeks. This ash tree was dead, so it’s initial moisture content was less than 20%. It got down to ~15% within a month using air drying and will take 1-2 weeks in the kiln to reach the final dryness level. So, from start to finish, this standing, dead ash could take less than 2 months to dry if no other delays existed.

There are other benefits besides the clean-looking straight grain and unique ray fleck pattern. Quartersawn boards are significantly more dimensionally stable - they don’t cup as much as plain sawn boards because they don’t expand and contract as much. Basically, this is due to the vertical orientation of the annual growth rings in the quartersawn board and the fact that wood doesn’t shrink as much in this direction as it does in the plain sawn direction. This type of material is more expensive to buy, but if you’re making a table top, it won’t cup like a plain sawn table top panel and also won’t expand and contract as much throughout the seasons.

I got the dewalt 16 inch 60 v max it’s really nice. Idk about daily use for years but would recommend for a tree here and there

A top handle saw like this is more for tree climbers, but the 14” or 16” rear handle saws like the Milwaukee 2727-20 and 2727-20C or the DeWalt mentioned above would make good saws for the homeowner who knows how to use a saw. Otherwise, the Milwaukee Hatchet or similar would be enough for most homeowners.

Like above said, it's for periodic cutting or often small limb cutting. If they need something to go through a trunk, I suggest a log saw if they don't like gas. A good logsaw that is often used by Two people could really do a number on a tree, but I do suggest doing a notch style cutting to keep it from binding or ratchetting the tree towards the direction you want it to fall so that as the trunk is cut, the rope or what have you will pull the trunk off the blade.

I tree climb, I would not use an electric saw for the majority of my cuts. Most of my work is done in suburbs, and sometimes clients complain about the noise of the saws.. "I'm trying to relax//get work done//baby needs a nap//etc" I was thinking about getting an electric saw to try to be more accommodating, I understand why you might not want to listen to a chainsaw outside your 2nd or 3rd story window, even if you did hire someone to remove a tree//tree limb for you. I was curious if you liked the Milwaukee model you were demonstrating because I already have Milwaukee batteries but have never laid eyes on their chain tools. Thank you for y'all's time

Ohh sorry I misinterpreted your comment. Yeah man I love the saw. The 8.0 and 12.0 batteries last a long time. I don’t think I would use anything smaller than those batteries. Saw has lots of power for sure. Easy to clean. Some downsides are that the brake wore out after only about 100 hrs of use and I had to send it in to get fixed by MKE. Free fix, but an inconvenience. A little heavy. Sometimes the brake gets jammed with chips. Overall I like it though. Way quieter than gas obviously.

thanks man!

This is a great call-out, thank you. Yes, these pallets were heat treated according to their markings. I will add a cautionary note to the description of the video.

Thanks Casey!!

Hey, thanks, I really appreciate it! Thanks for all the educational content!

Ha! I don't know if I could keep up with her!

Interesting lights, thanks for the suggestion!

Hey I really appreciate that, thank you!!

Thank you!!

Thanks so much Amber!!😊

Thanks Carl!!

Thanks, Sue!😊

Just kidding! Nice video.

@@caseyschenkel1889 haha thanks Casey!