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Thank you! Cheers 🍻

This is really interesting and I think this would go really well with my cider. I'm gonna look more into this!

It's a good point that the pressure can't be too higher, but in this case there's just a slight difference and I've never had any bad foaming. Something else which can help is having a narrow liquid tube so the transfer is slow. I also store my kegs in my keezer so they're usually quite cold before transfer.

Good luck! would be interested to hear how you get on. If you need help we do have a video on open fermentation and always happy to answer questions.

That's a shame, do you remember why it was so bad and what off flavours were coming out in the beer?

Yeah give it a go, it will work really well for a Weissbier! The krausen tends to stay the same in my experience.

Cool, so you start the fermentation with a spunding valve attached but set to 0 with a blow off tube, then increase the pressure towards the end?

@@KegThat I make a blow off vessel out of a 1l pop bottle and one of those red dispensing carb caps, I leave it cracked open to allow pressure out, after a couple of days or so fermenting I tighten it up and stick on a spunding valve. Most of the time I will also use the ferment to push out star-san from a keg and then put the spunding valve on the keg so I end up with the FV and the purged keg at the same pressure, then simply swap from the gas connection to the beer out on the FV to start a closed transfer.

I’ve never open fermented, but might have to try it down the track. I did wonder if it would be worth doing on day 1 and possibly 2 of a kveik yeast and then seal.

@@stripeyjoe Sounds like a good way to do it. I'm saving fermentation gas more and more and using for things like purging kegs etc.

@@qlmh3757 Kveik would be great for open ferments. I think in my original open ferment video I used a kveik strain. They are so flavourful and will benefit from this.

An issue I've found with this line is the tubing from the keg to the tap is unnecessarily long. It dawned on me all my beers from that keg come out kind of similar so I've shortened the tubing. It comes out a lot nicer now.

Thanks! That's a good point about hop additions too - just add them later. Do you use this method a lot? How does the hop character come out for you?

@@KegThat I mostly no chill as my main fermentor is PETG so I can't put hot wort in it. I delay all hop adds by 15 mins and final addition straight in the cube. It works out pretty well. I do sometimes ferment in a keg but will add hops part way through the ferment.

I don't think hot side aeration (HSA) is as big a problem as people say it is on a homebrew scale. Maybe it's more serious for commercial brewers making hectolitres of wort at a time? I don't splash wort around but I also don't take extra steps to prevent splashing. Using silicone tubing to transfer has been fine for my beers.

I've used a regular balloon a couple of times a while ago, I didn't have enough airlocks but for some reason a bunch of balloons. It did work well but I didn't do a cold crash and had a pretty quick turn around. A mylar balloon sounds like it would work really well.

Yeah, after banging on about safety around boiling wort I do think wearing sandals isn't the best idea 😂

You could use quick disconnects but sounds a bit overkill. I think a good fitting tube in a bung or gromit is fine. Have you tried this method before?

@@KegThat No, currently syphoning from a bucket in to bottles or pressure barrel. Last batch has oxidised with a high hop content. Taste is ok but colour is awful. Just trying to come up with a way to transfer without lots of new equipment.

@@bigsqueegie Do you bottle straight from the fermenting bucket or transfer to a new bucket before bottling?

@@KegThat I currently transfer to another vessel with my priming sugar in (usually my pressure barrel) and then bottle from that or leave in the PB. Lots of potential for oxygen!

@@bigsqueegie In my experience bottling straight from the fermenter has improved my beers. Cold crashing (whilst using these CO2 storage techniques) will compact the yeast cake, then gently pouring in the priming sugar solution and very gently stirring with a spoon will be fine. I then sanitise my bottles and get on with bottling which gives the sugar enough time to fully distribute throughout the brew. Any extra trub I was getting in bottles was minimal if any at all, but there was definitely a flavour improvement by switching to this one bucket method.

I dunno about that tbh, it's one of those things which are so easy to make at home would there be a market for it? You can even get kilner jars (and other types of jars) with airlocks already drilled in which saves half the work. Either way let's take it to Dragon's Den and ask for £19,000,000 for 3% stake.

50/50? 😂

@@davidjennings1256 Deal! 😂

I tend to keep CO2 volumes between 2.2 and 2.4. This was kegged and I have one regulator for all beers, so it was probably around 2.2 volumes. If you can individually set the volume for each beer - you have individual line regs for you keg setup or you are bottling - I would aim for a typical Belgian wit volume.

@@KegThat Good stuff, I opted for 2.4 and it's lively and lovely. It started fermenting at 30c and went off like a bomb, I temp controlled it down to 22 for 5 more days, then 20 for a day then 2c for a day and bottled it on day 8! 2 weeks bottle conditioning and it's damned good. Came in at 5.5% so my batch sparge was very efficient. I only got 22 litres out though, not the full 25.

I have found quality makes a huge difference. The first time I made this recipe which was a while ago now, I went to Waitrose and got the best vanilla pods I could find. Those really added a strong vanilla flavour. I've also found leaving them for longer can help too. The pods I used were from an online shop I've never used before and it took a week of steeping to get a fairly strong vanilla flavour from one pod. So I'd say 1 really good vanilla pod for 20-25L beer steeped for up to a week should do it, but if you don't have access to that then more pods should also work.

thanks! They are both absolutely fine for fermenting, but the Apollo has some features which make it easier, like the dry hop port and thermowell. Also it's conical which is good for fermentation. I think both are good but Apollo is my preference. What are you thinking of getting?

@@KegThat thanks for the info. Probably a toss up between the Apollo or unitank version and the Chubby or All-rounder.. so probably the Apollo overall from what I've seen and your advice

Yes that's correct. The setup is a spunding valve on the fermenter set to 12-15psi, and then a spunding valve set to 12-15 psi on the collection tank. This method will pressurise the fermenter a bit quicker. Ultimately the pressure will be dictated by which ever spunding valve is higher.

@@KegThat You’re missing my point mate. If they are in a closed position (loop) then the fermentation will produce more than the set amount on the spunding valve so it will continue to increase in the tanks….as they can only vent to each other…if this exceeds 35-40 psi it could split the fermenter. If is fine if one of the spunding valves are open, but in your closed loop they are not as the fermenter vents to the keg and the keg to the fermenter…so upon equalisation they will both pressurise until the fermentation is over.

The closed loop bit only happens during transfer, not fermentation. During fermentation there is a spunding valve which vents extra pressure during fermentation into the air, not back into the FV. Is that what you're querying?

@@KegThat Ah right - yes, I must have missed that mate. I thought you were trying to build up lots of pressure in the capture keg lol....all good. Glad it works for you.

🍻🍻🍻

It's not, but that's a great name for a black IPA. I'll keep an eye out for it.

Thanks so much! Hope you enjoy the other videos. How are you getting on with Nova Lager? I've not had a chance to use it yet but it's on my list

@@KegThat it’s absolutely fantastic no lagering ferments higher and super super clear really quickly when you cold crash it. I’m a fan cheers 👍🏼🍻

I've sort of got a rotation going so there's one on keg whilst the next one is conditioning which helps!

After 10 months of using it I still love it! I'm changing how I ferment beers so all my brews can be pressurised during fermentation

@@KegThat that's good to know. Have you had experience with any other pressure fermenters? Probably a toss up between this or a corny keg.

I used a Fermzilla a couple of years ago, but found it a bit difficult to keep pressurised and it has more parts than the Fermenter King so found I needed to pay extra attention to sanitisation. Newer models have come out since, maybe they address some of these issues? I have fermented in a corny keg, I'd recommend swapping a floating dip tube for the existing one but depending how much you brew these can be a great option too. Do you have a keg setup?

@@KegThat No, no kegs at the mo, just bucket and pressure barrel/ bottles. I've been happy with the results so far, just wondering if a pressure/ keg setup would be worth it for my next move

@@bigsqueegie Something to take into consideration would be how to serve/transfer from the PF without an existing CO2 setup. Happy to give advice but was wondering if you had a plan? I'd say pressure fermenting for "clean" styles (IPAs, certain stouts, lagers etc) has really been a game changer.

Thanks for watching! I was in the middle of making a video about fermentation control but my keezer broke ☹and all brewing has come to a halt whilst I wait for the parts to arrive and make a new one. Hopefully won't be too long before I can get back to brewing and getting the footage I need.

@@KegThat you take your time. Quality over quantity. I just got a neipa kit and will be attempting it with bucket FV.. water control this time, hopefully some better temp and oxygen control next time..

Yeah it was really sad news. I remember there was some talk of the employees buying it but I don't think that happened. I'll check out the kit.

That sounds like a really decent recipe, and you're growing the perfect hop for a steam beer! Do you prefer a specialised steam beer yeast or a lager yeast for this recipe?

​@@KegThat I don't have al lot of comparison. All the CC's I've made were with W34/70. This is the first time I'm using another yeast, this (WLP810) is a lager yeast. If you use an ale yeast it would be more an amber ale. Then some more hops would be in place.

Once you get round to drinking it I'd be interested to hear what your thoughts are on a steam beer yeast Vs "true" lager. I've used WY2112 before which was ok. Using an English ale yeast on a steam beer wort will produce a nice best bitter.

Thanks! I'd be interested to know how you get on. That's a good question about cold crashing, I usually just cold crash in my fridge at 1C for a week and haven't ever worried about O2 ingress because I haven't detected ever detected it; I'm not sure it's really an issue. However, I'm trying a couple of CO2 saving ideas to see if it makes a difference on a few brews. One of which is using a kilner jar as a co2 collection. My next vid is gonna be some homebrew tips and tricks where I will cover this.

@@KegThat great stuff thanks for replying I really appreciate it. I assume then you’ve not had a problem with sanitiser being sucked back into your fermenter from the blow off tube/air lock when cold crashing. Maybe I’m worrying too much about it and shouldn’t worry about it so much and just give it a go and see what happens. I’ll let you know how the cali common turns out. Cheers. 👍🍺

@@steveparker2090 No worries at all, happy to help. I've not had a problem with sanitise being sucked back in, it works the same way as fermentation - bubbles get drawn in as opposed to liquid, but I fill mine with Chemsan so if small amounts get into the beer it won't make any difference to the beer. I've never noticed any off flavours cold crashing and I think it's because I never open the lid during fermentation so by the end of fermentation all space is CO2, and even if O2 is sucked in there's a blanked of CO2 protecting the beer. Good luck with the brew 🍻

@@KegThat thanks for that. Really appreciate the advice.

once yeast is in liquid form it can store in the fridge for 2 weeks and be used right away. Any longer than that it will need a starter.

Did you find it to be estery when young? I'm wondering if underpitching leads to the esters described in the video

I think this would be great for a Vienna lager as it really makes the malts shine through. I really enjoyed my Vienna lager with this. If you want more of a traditional Vienna it would definitely need lagering though.

This yeast is originally from the Hurlimann brewery so you'd definitely be using the right yeast! Nova is one on my list but haven't got round to trying yet, I've heard some good things about it.

I fermented my pils at 12C which came out great. I've fermented it under pressure at 18-20C and it still throws out quite a lot of esters, despite the pressure ferment. I guess it depends what you're after, I think for a traditional lager 12-14C would be best.

No problem, that sounds great. If you're interested to see how my German pils came out with this yeast I have a video on it here: ruclips.net/video/S1egDimHc2Y/видео.htmlsi=tU3Rjwi3VlTakUL8. I'll be interested to know your opinion and how it compares to 34/70.

I've not heard of this yeast before but just looked it up. I wonder if it's the same yeast (the way US05 and WLP001 are the same yeast) just produced by different labs?

@@KegThat BF 16 is a clean lager yeast from chinese lab

Yeah definitely! I want to brew a hoppy pils with this and was considering more of a NZ pils.