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Don't worry too much. It's just a riding mower. This style of trans axle is weak, but easy to work with. I generally take pictures during disassembly. Just place the shims as shown in the diagram and should be fine. Or could compare to the video if it helps. It's not as precise as something like a farm tractor. Heck, had a mtd 15-20 years ago with the rearend that was locked up, tore it down found a screw that holds the spider gears in place had backed out. Tapped the hole Replaced the screw, put it back together and it worked. Mind you, I was like 14 years old and never opened a rear axle. I didn't care, I got it for free and I couldn't make it worse.

Yep. Gotta get a shroud and temps will drop. I'd pitch the the edeljoke. There even more worthless than the factory autolite 4300. Most idiots get the edeljoke 4106, bolt it on. They think playing with the idle mixture is how to jet a carb, and never run right, especially in a car with an automatic and highway gears. Google "roadkill carb tuning and tater truck". That will give you an idea of how to PROPERLY tune a carb. Get a holley. I'm not a fan of anything aftermarket, but will take a holley over an edeljoke any day of the week. There's a formula to calculate the proper size carb, have to look it up, but don't bother with a double pumper.There useless outside of the dragstrip

@@giberish9 Lol I rebuild both eddy and holly carbs. Both are exceptionally well built imho, and I like both just fine depending on the application. I get 13mpg in my Mark with an eddy 1405 (600cfm) on road trips if I keep it at 65-69MPH and drive for high vacuum. My 83' K10 Suburban work horse has a mild built 454 / TH400 combo on 32" tires with 3.07 gears....I use an eddy 1407 (750cfm) on her. She gets 11ish loaded. The only issue that I have with eddy carbs is that you ABSOLUTLY MUST run non-ethanol. They do not have externally adjustable floats like holly...and the variance of the % of ethanol in fuel makes it nearly IMPOSSIBLE to "Properly" set the float levels due to ever changing buoyancy. You can adjust your holly carbs with every tank and save big $ burning corn fuel.

@Sherissa's Pieces oh OK. Sound like you actually know what your doing. Sorry I generally get guys that have no clue. Had any issues with fuel boil. This one had a consistent flow of steam out the bowl vents

oh sorry i didnt reply sooner on the rubber mount. The rubber mounts are rubber isolators i got from some company that restros mustangs. the metal piece you see me holding at 2:13 i made from some 1/8 flatstock and some roundbar tacked into place. made the mounts to mimmic what was left of the original lincoln mounts. Lower mounts were an absolute nightmare to made and get the height correct. Also had to use Dorman 800-754 adapters for the trans cooler lines. I think i documented this on the lincolnforums somewhere. Been a couple years.

Could be. Could also be the 2 drive belts wearing out. As the belts wears out on these goofy mtd mowers, the mower gets slower. the stupid variable speed pulley mtd uses seems to wear out the belts is as little as 2 years.

@@giberish9 The belt was replaced last year, yet it didn't make it any better so wondering if its the forward drive teeth in the rear end or possibly pullies..if it was the transmission it should have trouble in reverse it doesn't, just forward pulling hills...then it slipped and wanted to roll backwards trying to pull a hill, we used the same belt we always replaced when it was worn...so gotta feel its got something to do with not catching in forward to have propulsion in forward...my son in law said the transmission needs replaced but I don't buy that it just doest seem logical...

@Judi Booher in that case, it's the forward gear and slide clutch. I'd split the case and flip the gears and slide clutch 180* or just replace the set. It's sad they only engage 3/16". Had they made the contact area wider, the failure rate would be lower.

@@giberish9 I'll definitely replace, its my old Troy-bilt,have brand new ones in the shed ,truly like them my old one is not going to be allowed to kick the bucket as long as I can get parts for it

Yeah. These transaxles are pathetic. The old MTD axles never did it to my knowledge. Guessing the slid clutch on older units had less slop.

No problem. Please pass it on to others. The subject comes up alot on the forums and Facebook groups. Wish rockauto would figure it out and edit there catalog. Also I strongly recommend giving a few coats of paint before installing. Something thick like tractor enamel.

@@giberish9 I absolutely will! I actually just recently got a set of original factory service manuals for 71 Ford's...and it's amazing, but not unexpected how much the Mark IIIs and Thunderbird share.

@@johnhgt40 yep. The nla radiator issue was a deadend looking for parts. High performance 3 core foxbody mustang radiator solved that as far at dimensions, but had to fabricate mounts. I got a video of that too. It's too bad the owner sold the car. Posting solutions for the common issues mark iii have was fun.

@@giberish9 So here's something interesting. This past Friday, I went to change the fuel tank in my 71 MKIII out....and this F47A tank had some major differences as compared to the one I pulled out. The biggest being the filler neck hole was higher in the tank than the original, there was a nipple for the filler neck vent tube right above that, and a huge dimple in the front side of the tank meant to clear the nut for the panhard Z bar on the rear suspension. Also, the original had a second lock ring hole on top, for the vent to carbon canister line. I did manage to get it to work, as dimensionally they were close, but the filler neck is now tweaked down behind the door, and I had to leave it unbolted. I also had to rearrange and connect the carbon canister line to the vent line on the filter neck so it would breath on hot days. I have driven it about 50 miles like that with no leaks or issues, but the F47A wasn't exactly a direct swap and required some installation changes to get it to function.

@@johnhgt40 carbon canister in 71? Is this a California spec car?

It's usually filled with grease. Bearing noise is probably one of the idler pulleys.

@@giberish9 Thanks. Noise is definitely in the rear end as I replaced all belts and pulleys: It only does it when I’m rolling at faster speeds and really sounds like gear mesh to me. I’m gonna pull the unit today and crack the case open to see what Santa left inside….lol.

Should fit fine. The 69-71 lincoln mark iii is based on a 69-71 ford t-bird platform so the alot of the mechanical stuff in pretty much the same. Frame, interior, etc. Lotta stuff that's supposedly no longer available I've found by looking up the same part but meant for more popular ford products of the same era. The junction block next to the starter solenoid was either broken or melted. Said NLA. I look up 1969 ford junction block. Looked at pictures till I found reproduction one meant for a '69 mustang. Looked right, ordered it. Perfect match.

Yep. No harm in trying. There worthless broken and the cost of a replacement is a joke. Also most of these riding mower transaxles are pretty simple. Just best to open it on a bench and take pictures the first time. This is the first mtd I've split. It's usually old abused craftsmans.

@@giberish9 hello.. Do you think i could maybe weld that up and machine or grind it down in some way... Im not from the US so the parts are not available and if special ordered and for a ton of money amd the machine is pretty old but works ok...

@@marcokauenhowen773 not sure. Maybe. Depends on how good the casting is. I never tried, but if I was to try it with basic tools, I would use a dremel rotors tool as it is the smallest and would give you the best chance at grinding it properly. If you try it, post a video. Always good to see solutions for common problems

@@giberish9 ok i never post videos but if i try it out il let you know for sure... I have another lawn tractor a john deere with hydrostatic wich works fine so im not sure if il even bother trying it but itd be interesting to find out.. What material are the gears and clutch made of? If its steel or iron i maybe could weld it but if its any other material it probably wont work out...

@@marcokauenhowen773 I think it's steel. Magnet will give a better answer.

yeah Ive solved a couple puzzles with these cars. Slowly realizing its a reaccuring situation with this car. If its supposedly NLA, i look the name of the part but for a different car from the same era. A tiny junction block thats apparently for the ammeter was broke and NLA. Well i hate incorrect parts. Makes it look ghetto. I google search an ammeter junction block for a 69 ford. I look at photos till i come across a perfect match. 1969 mustang used the same parts. can get restoration parts for that all day long. Ordered 1, PERFECT MATCH.

I got more vids covering these puzzles.

@@giberish9 thanks , I'll check em out

Yeah. I kept the hydraulic wipers. Believe i just ordered a hose for a 70 mark iii. Original steering box. Brake lines are a bit of a tight fit. Could use a master cylinder for a 70 as well. The fittings are on the other side on a 70 master cylinder

Thanks a bunch for the quick reply, really looking forward to getting her back on the road!! Thanks man

@@marioperugini3059 no problem. Also I should note, if you look up pictures of a 1970 mark iii engine compartment, you will notice a power steering cooler wrapped around the a/c compressor. I didn't get to that, but would recommend it as the p/s box sits close to the exhaust manifold.

I still recommend a 79-93 mustang, but a 3 core and in flat black. This polished aluminum just looks stupid and out of place. Ill look for a catalog and find a suitable part number. Your engine still look stock?

@@giberish9 great. and yeah completely stock

@@dlanyc168 if the radiator has to be black, like i honestly would want, id try this: lmr.com/item/SVE-8005A-BL/mustang-sve-aluminum-radiator-black-79-93 Otherwise mishimoto makes the best. Might have to take couple trips to the parts store to find the proper fittings for trans cooler. i got the number somewhere. Mine where aftermarket GM fittings from oreillys.

@@giberish9 Would you be able to specify what fittings i need? I know i need fittings specifically for the trans fluid (right side of radiator when looking at engine bay), but dont know what that would entail. Thanks!!

@@dlanyc168 dang. i know i kept the box, but been couple years

Cast iron or aluminum? The cast iron ones are alot more forgiving

Amazon

Does it say MARK iii under the hood? The 2 doors are a mark iii

Will this fit 1970 Lincoln Continental Mark 3

And yet parts manufacturers dont bother checking

That will be another fabrication job I'm not looking forward to. Shrouds are not being reproduced. When you find them there around $500. The 40+ year old fiberglass shroud crumbled years before I ever saw the car

Yep

What did you use for anti squeak strips?

Not sure what you mean. Like for the metal straps that hold the tank? I just did the fuel tank, rubber grommets (expensive from Lincoln land), fuel lines, fuel pump, and carb with new fuel filter, correct sending unit with dummy low fuel warning switch, and such. No squeaks and it runs great since I replaced the old nasty tank and old cracked out hard rubber lines some clown previous owner put in). I’m on to electrical issues (power windows, ac blower, turn signal switch, etc.) and then she will be road worthy.

@@Matt_Moore yep. Between the tank and straps. I think I used cork gasket material when I installed a tank in my suburban. On the mark iii I used some tar paper and glued into place with black rtv.

Hmmm..well I didn’t use anything between tank and straps. I haven’t driven it much but don’t recall hearing any squeaking or binding. Now you got me worried though...I’ll check that out.

giberish9 if I’m not mistaken the mkiii just had steel straps to hold the tank in. No rubbers on the tank tabs. I could be wrong, but when I dropped my tank on my 1969 mkiii, it was just 2 metal tabs.

I've heard stories about vapor lock but never experienced it. Sure its vapor lock and not fuel starvation? Never did an electric pump. Did buy an extra pump, but so far haven't needed it. Carter is said to be a good brand. Should be ok. I'll have to check the gas cap situation. Been awhile. Its actually not my car. It belongs to a friend. A shop allegedly rebuilt the engine/trans but they did alot of hack work. Wasn't even drivable when it left shop. Drives good now. How well does yours crank when hot? Contemplating a gear reduction starter.

I’m not absolutely certain it’s vapor lock, but the symptoms match. It starts up and runs great, but after driving about 20 minutes in it sputters and dies like it’s starved for fuel. If I let it cool down even just a few minutes it will start again but repeats soon after. I did a full rebuild on the 460 about 9 months ago (compression test failed on 2 cylinders and was told the piston rings were toast). Before that I replaced the carb with a remanufactured after getting frustrated with trying to rebuild the stock one. Just got it back from the body shop (6 months felt like forever) just 2 weeks ago. Come to think of it now...those rubber fuel lines I mentioned feel kinda krinkly and somebody added a fugly filter with what appears to be AN type fittings. Who knows how old that filter is. Yeah I know...kinda working backwards here.. Might just be gunked up in the line/filter and sediments build up under pressure driving, and then it disperses a bit when I shut it off. I recurved the gas tank yesterday. This weekend I’ll be replacing the tank, lines, sending unit, and fuel pump. I’ll save the original pump and sending unit in case I need it later.

@@Matt_MooreIf it is vapor lock, i dont think an electric fuel pump will change things except maybe if you set it up with a regulator with a return line going back to tank to purge excess air. Id look at rubber line signs of excess heat. Wondering if a homemade "cool can" might help diagnose the issue.

@@Matt_Moore ever watch "uncle Tony's garage "? If not, he just posted a video titled "$8 cure for vapor lock" . Might be worth watching.

no problem. Hold onto the original sending unit. If the aftermarket sending unit give you issues, you will be glad you got the original. low fuel light is always on in this car. Where did you get the fuel neck? The filler on this is driving me bonkers. The clowns that worked on the car last either shoved in the wrong filler neck or aftermarket gas caps are just a poor fit.

Are their any remnants of the old metal lines? If you want to bend some fuel line as close to O.E as possible. Look for this style bender. www.ebay.com/itm/Pliers-Bending-Compact-Copper-Pipe-Tube-Tubing-Brake-Line-Bender-Copper-Aluminum/302688581990?hash=item4679a53966:g:O9kAAOSwM99avqtH Its probably the only style of bender i have that wont kink the larger (5/16 or 3/8) lines.

Thanks and will do on saving the original sending unit. I bought a replacement one on eBay. They specified with and without low fuel warning, so I just assumed that was an option. Yes there are original remnants of the metal fuel lines still under the car, but they are disconnected (educated guess is they have holes). Now it has a rubber line and a filter that runs along the driver side frame rail...kinda bothers me and maybe I’ll bend new metal lines. Actually was wrong..didn’t get a new filler neck but it looks ok. I got new groments/gaskets for the neck both to the tank and to where it seals to the quarter panel (again EBay..think Lincoln land was the invoice?). Wasn’t cheap either...like $40 each for a stupid piece of rubber. Mine has an old locking stant fuel cap. It works ok but you have to match the tabs just right to get it on. Fuel tank should be here this Tuesday. Disappointed amazon prime didn’t ship overnight but its a bulky item that takes longer. I’m going to install next weekend.

@@Matt_Moore Might of been Lincoln land. Bought several parts from them. On this gas cap, I can't even fully turn it. Been over a year, but if memory serves me right, the "correct cap" I got from oreillys was too narrow and didn't even hook to filler neck. Had to do some searching around the store. Think what I ended up with is a cap intended for a 73 Ford Ltd. Still not right but was closer. I might contact Lincoln land about a filler neck at some point. Next project will probably be either the heater core or electrical going to the windows. Been dreading it.

giberish9 Funny you say that as both of those are also my next projects. Previously i replaced all fuses in the glovebox and cleaned up contact points in the electrical relay box under the hood. For the windows I pinpointed my problem to two connections on the driver side control box. I have the door panel and the switches removed, and just need to spend some time wiring those connections / cleaning the contacts. I also have an audible vacuum leak coming from the passenger side dash. It might be the heater core or vacuum line(s). I checked the lines I could see without taking apart the dash and it’s not those. I hate vacuum leaks...I’m just going to replace the heater core while I’m there and have the dash apart. Those are next on my to-dos after the fuel system.

Yep. Bolted up no problem. It's a 69. Wish it was a 70 or 71 cause of the crappy power steering pump on 68-69. Have couple videos on the power steering pump too. Converted to belt drive

No issues with the tank itself. I'd strongly recommend painting the tank with a good quality paint(not rattle cans) to prevent rot. Only issue I'm having is I cant find the correct fuel cap at the parts store. Parts store gives me what the say is correct but never even comes close to fitting. I'm wondering if I someone swapped out the filler neck at some point. Lotta piss poor repairs I had to redo. Retro fitting the replacement radiator was a nightmare too. Can make a video of that if your having radiator issues. That was fun once I figured out the puzzle.

@@giberish9 thanks for the info! Did your new tank come with rhe rubber grommet for the fill tube? Please send the link for the tank, I'd like to buy one just to put on the shelf as I own several mkiii's. Great cars I tell ya! I was fortunate that a local shop was able to recore my radiator, they did an amazing job. I tried all kinds of radiators online and none fit. The shop was able to rebuild the core back to oem and it now Works like a dream. Your radiator video would be great! There isn't much mkiii how to content.... I'm sure Lincoln fans around the world would be grateful for your time! Thanks!!

@@dovergerald1579 I think I had to get the grommet separately. I'll look through my receipts. Tank probably either came from Amazon or rockauto. Will make video for radiator in the next few days. Rad was suggested by a person on the forums. He did a similar swap on a 64 continental. Basically a performance replacement rad ment for a 79-93 mustang. Old rad was from a 71 mustang and it fit poorly. Current rad is a 2 core. So far runs alot cooler, but might switch to a 3 core.

Yep

@@giberish9 im in the middle of reubilding a 460 for a 97 ford lightning lookalike. thanks for the help!

notsogreat123 took several parts off the other engine include a set of remanufactured carbs. Driving it wont help. Rod bearings are shot. Mice built a nest above the rods closest to the flywheel. When I removed the oil pan, found gray sludge in the area below the nest. Mouse urine washed off some of the bearing material. Otherwise oil pressure would likely be higher.

ratzherb define loser. I define a loser as a person that sits on his butt all day just looking for stuff to complain about. A loser like that just pissed away most of her savings from social security on posters trying to get elected for county clerk instead of paying her rent.

ratzherb scrap why? To replace with Korean made garbage? That's brilliant !....NOT

Giberish9 please hit me up about the Lincoln Dmsr44@hotmail.com Or here rossi bros auto Thanks golden content!

Rene Trujillo 1979 450sel 6.9, but I believe the injection system is similar on a 450sl

Check the fuel pressure should be around 5 bar system and 3 to 3.5 bar control pressure. There are several videos to show you how to do this. Good Luck mate happy new year.

Rene Trujillo no idea what the pressure was. Bought a tester from harbor freight and it was a p.o.s. It read 100psi ever time i tried it and never released pressure properly. Car ran a lot better after swapping the injectors. Tried cleaning them with paint thinner though my pop tester, but opening pressure showed about 10psi lower than spec. and spray pattern was erratic, so replaced with new Bosch replacements.

IncreasingVoltage oil pressure drops to about 2 bar when hot

nope. This is after adjusting valves, ignition timing, and carbs. Got video of it just after its first startup. Ill have to look for it