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I too found the minimal difference in cut speed interesting. Like you said, over 10 percent width is a lot compared to the close margins in cut time. Thanks. ~Dr. C.

Indeed, the roller guides for the two chains are different. Normally I would write the part numbers here, but YT doesn't like numbers in comments. Still probably a generally known fact, but also the roller guides for Husqvarna's own chains (X-Cut) have changed compared to the previous ones for Husqvarna's previous chains (Hxx), which were sourced from Oregon.

Great information🧐 Thank you!

Interesting in the UK the X-Cut .325 chains have just been released in 050 and 058 in full chisel unguarded. I normally run Stihl RS it is a bit soon for me to decide they are both excellent chains. looking forward to your next 325 test.

Good job,good video.

Is this a g288?

Your channel is truely a teaching channel you have answered 50 years of chainsaw question that I have had.

What is that log acacia?

I've long resisted buying Chinese clone saws despite them being so tempting with Aussie retail pricing for OEM. That blue saw looks like fun.

So it’s like cutting with the grain 😮

What kind of wood is that hard stuff? Like straight dust coming off of there! I recently kind of noticed a similar thing trying to buck up some frozen red oak that has been laying on the ground soaking up water for approximately 5 yrs. We had a cold snap since the last time I ran the saw and boy I thought my chain was like brand new. Seemed to be just dust coming off of it and I wasn’t sure if it was my depth gauges or if I should reduce my top plate angle…. Good video!

Been pushing my 18v Dewalt to cut too big a logs lately, bough a file, didn't improve much, gave it another touch up, still not what it should be doing. Couldn't find a flat file, so flap disk on the grinder it was to bring down the depth gauges. She's taking out lovely chips and storming through the New Zealand Christmas trees now Battery saws have come a long way, light enough to use one-handed, power to cut a 200mm branch efficiently. 54v Recip is brilliant for cutting roots.

Long bars and soft wood on the West Coast I have filed past the witness mark on many chains with no issues. I’ll just cut off really thin teeth. But I am only a hobbyist really. I can see other circumstances causing issues. Great video and great tips, detail and explanation giving me a better insights on chains. Definitely a niche video but very much appreciated.

1000 fps would be enough to film how the chain cuts depending on various parameters. Just 1000 fps was used by a researcher here about 10 years ago to study how a saw chain driven by an internal combustion (reciprocating) engine behaves. However, he reduced the engine speed to 6000 rpm, because 1000 fps is not that much when the engine speed exceeds 10000 rpm. You can, of course, rent cameras with large higher fps. I would like to use such a camera someday to film the differences (or rather confirm them) between a chainsaw with an electric motor and a combustion (reciprocating) engine. However, my curiosity is not high enough to justify the very high cost of renting such a camera.

Thank you for the video. I've already written about this under some previous video, that in my opinion the real pivot point is where the cutter link rests against the bar rail as it starts to lift up when entering the wood due to the top plate clearance angle. Normally this point is behind the center of the rear rivet. This can be seen in your video, where the "dead zone" is just there more or less. Of course, where exactly this point is in relation to the rivet (and the end of the cutter/top plate) will depend on the type of chain/cutter link.

Fascinating look at the geometry and physical impact during cutting. Thank you!

It’s so important!

👍🙋‍♂️

Merely curious, did you attempt to measure the difference in side plate angle between the two tensions?

Good tip thanks

Excellent explanations. Thanks Brother!

Nice now I know why some of my chains dont self feed right when almost wore out and why some newer chains have shorter cutter lengths where the cutter ends close to the rivet. If the cutter ends at the rivet there's no need to lower the depth gauges extra when it's past it, you get less chain life but easier sharpening. I use the husky progressive gauge but it's not perfect and I need to take extra off when the cutter is back past the rivets. All my buddies free hand file the depth gauges simply taking a swipe off when it's not self feeding right.

What I have noticed about chainsaw tooth geometry is there are some slight variations on the top plate backward sloping angle most vary from 9° to 11° and the back rivit pivot point where is placed almost half way in the middle of the cutter on many chains not all though. So again it's really hard to compare one chain against another chain. There are very slight variations. And this happens with top plate cutting angle v top plate angle v side plate angle. In the end you must find what works for you and your saw and the wood you cut

After watching this I’m thinking I’d like you to sharpen my chains! I will now be shaping my depth gauges, cheers. Good vid

No boring.

Wasent boring at all i really enjoy the deep dive info id like to see more like this

Very informative and helpful information 😊

Good video to technical for me

Very cool! I zoomed in a bunch and was checking out the individual metal shavings. Nice work. ~Dr. C.

Do you think the geometry can be replicated with a hexa file? It has almost the same angle as a double bevel file where the side plate cutters and top plate cutters meet.

Well Tinker, that’s what a sharp file should do, probably more.

Love the suuuuuper slo mo

I have even seen sparks from hard wood 20 years old wood laying on the ground. I always found using semi chisel was best option with hard hard old wood. I used full chisel and it blunts so quickly. Many countries have softwood our hard wood us the next level. At least when the eucalyptus tees are green it's much easier

Hello from central Virginia USA. Excellent video! I really enjoyed seeing the difficulty the chain had trying to self feed in your native trees. I have watched your videos. I know you can sharpen a chain. I have learned so much about tooth geometry from you. Thanks! ~Dr. C.

The problem with this video which is both honest & correct is that it really doesn't have any relevance too 95%+ of you predominantly American audience on YT. They don't encounter really dense heavy wood. Many of our gum and box species will sink in water like a piece concrete. The average experience for them running a full chisel 3/8 chain is to cut for 1-2+ tanks before needing to sharpen. They'll look at this & scratch their head believing your doing something wrong because their years or even decades of experience which is totally valid in THEIR conditions hasn't presented this. But I'm all for it & I'm sure they with context they will find it interesting. I remeber 15 years ago buying chainsaws out of the US with 050 gauge bars & chains having BIG problems just with equipment. Chips would bind up in the bar rails and the chain would get starged with oil. Stihl Australia factory fits EVERY saw running .325 & above with .063 gear. You wont even be able to buy 3/8 050 bars/chain off the shelf unless they ordered it in unless it's Low-pro Picco setups on pole saws, TH's and small saws will come in .050 even .043. I've got some really nice, 24", 28" & 32" Sugi bars in 3/8 050 which I just can't use 😢.

Good demo mate..our friends os have know idea how hard our timber is

A lot of these Stihl MS 310 chainsaws are still going today,seem a lot better made than the MS311 which came after,I could be wrong?all the best ✅

These as you would know are not available anymore.Ms 170 originally came out with a Zama Chinese made carburettor if I’m correct,good short video ✅

Awesome explanation and close in video work. You’re explanation of the working cycle in its phases were extremely illuminating, thank you.

Howdy..yes thare great..do u no wear a guy can buy 1..I live in Minnesota..it can always be shipped..let me no..thank u

good vid well done //// how shit works 😁😁😁😁😁

Great explanation

This was incredibly inforrmative, thank you for this video!!!

Great info and good job explaining it for just some 2 stroke huffing fool like myself ;) just to be clear was the first cutter a chisel shape that was round ground? Or was it also square but with just a different side plate angle? Also do you hand file or machine grind your square? Thanks so much for going into this. I know you mentioned your slow mo videos didn’t show much but might be cool to see them anyway. Also I wonder if you could have some air compressor blowing the saw dust away from the cut to get a better view.

In a little different direction, I freehand rip a lot of lumber. I have found that the angle of the cutters increase the width of the cut and also the roughness because the cutters pull left and right. I sharpen mine at 0 deg, this makes a very smooth cut and lets the bar follow the cut to keep it straight and needs to cut less so it is faster using less gas. Use full chisel and remove the rackers, this produces a long chip but not long enough to clog the saw. In freehand cutting you only use about the first foot of bar so you can use a longer bar than normal that also helps with straightness. Occasionally I will use the ripping rig to buck a log when I don’t want to change over for just one cut and find it still works surprisingly well.

Great video mate. I'll bookmark this for future reference and definitely send it to some people who need it as well. 😁

GREAT video!!!! Signed, A wildland d firefighter

Good video, I cut a fair bit too and are in Australia. Many years ago I discovered many things those in the US were doing simply didn't work here in my world. I found myself detuning chains in order to get them to cut faster. That inner top plate angle and hook or side plate profile are critical. Get it wrong and in our wood the chain becomes 'grabby', inefficiant and violent towards your gear. Smooth, self feeding chain is what cuts dense wood fast. Pretty much all my chain is semi chisel with a portion of square. Full chisel can be ok in green wood or softer species but for the day to day grind, it just doesn't hold uo for the readons articulated in this video. Shame really, cause I like the way it cuts. .404 is your freind her too, I find on 65cc+ saws it provides the best value with so much more meat on the cutters you get the most sharpenings per chain. Australian conditions does force you to learn all this stuff otherwise your cutting experience is terrible. I subscribed.

Such a good video!! I hope a lot of people see this. Especially the square profile bit. Great job👍🏻

Great work‼😍 Thank you❗