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Wow! That came out very nice, Gavin. I appreciate the explanation through each step. Nice work!

Thank you :)

Very nice and tidy. Albert J. Dremel came to America in 1906 as a young penniless immigrant. A born inventor, and engineering designer, he went on to receive 55 patents. He founded Dremel Manufacturing Co. in Racine, Wisconsin in 1932. One of the first products was the Moto-Tool, which evolved into the Rotary-Tool.😊

You’re a patient man!! Get there in the end!

Looking real good Gavin, you are well on your way to completion of the cowl. Do you see any issues in using car body filler as well, similar to what I did on my wing tips?

This is great Gavin! I've been fretting about how to extend my cowl, since my engine of choice (Aeromomentum) will be a bit longer than the Aerovee. This seems like a great way to extend the cowl while keeping the lines of the original. I'm looking forward to part 2 to see how well it works out for you. Thanks for taking the time to walk through your process.

very helpful for me Gavin as I have no idea how to fiberglass, well successfully anyway-I like the idea of the clear plastic sheet to start with

A metallic surface will delay the exothermic reaction quite well. Stainless steel cleans up nicely. A large square is choice for floxed resin. 😊

Usually the top cowling will go on top of the firewall flange not under. not familiar with the Sonex but that allows you to just lift the cowling straight up.

Damn Gavin, you took a beating in 2024! Glad to have you back, looking forward to watching you finish the build. I haven't started a build yet, but I think what you're saying about removing the cowl makes sense. I think you'll be able to remove the top once you remove the hinge pins and tilt it. Post it on the forum and someone will probably confirm for you.

Wow! So happy that you are back to the project. I've been checking the site almost every day for 6 months. I missed your jocularity and craftsmanship. I've had similar health problems, so I know the situation. I forgo being PIC because of age. Keep up the good work and chatter!

Does your plane have a variable pitch carbon prop?

So glad to see you back Gavin! I’m building the wings for my Sonex B and your videos have been a tremendous help. Wishing you a great 2025 from Texas.

Very sorry to here about your Super Guepard, but by the looks from the bad came a good with the upgrades....and moreover no one was hurt, well apart from pride I guess. Have a great xmas and new year and Sonex is looking great... Chat in 2025

Gavin, pictures of the B models from the Sonex website show a vent on the sides of the lower half of the cowl near the firewall. I assumed that was standard for all B models. But @14:30 I noticed that the lower half of your cowling does not have the side vents molded in. I wonder why this is the case?

Glad to see your return Gavin! I been checking your channel, and like many, was wondering where you have been. I do hope the worst is behind you and wish your the best of health in the future. I own, fly and maintain a Sonex A-Model in Texas, USA. I'm not the original builder, so your videos provide good perspective into the overall design of Sonex aircraft. I sincerely enjoy and appreciate all the effort you put into the channel. Cheers! Alan

I'm so happy to see you working in your Sonex again! Sounds like its been a very busy year for you and Katie, both. Sorry to hear about the Super Guépard, but glad it was able to be put back together; and especially glad there were no serious injuries.

As we say in the US, when it rains, it pours. Glad you’re okay. Something has me baffled. Do you have the correct cowling? The Sonex B should exhaust engine heat out the side of the lower cowling. It appears that you have the old cowling. Am I missing something?

Gavin,, I,m 70 years old.. Getting old really sucks!! I hope you can get it finished for taxi and first flight this summer!! Whoo hoo! Oh and Merry Christmas to you and yours.

Great to see another video. I was honestly getting worried we may not hear from you on YT again. I’m glad the tribulations of the past year haven’t dampened your enthusiasm.

Gavin, we are cheering for you. Get back in it and refocus. You will find your enthusiasm strong again. We all want to see you in the air flying your Sonex B.

How odd that the cowl is wedged. Boggles the mind in considering making a gap to insert a pry bar. Sort of gingerly shaving and tweaking the fit doesn't appeal to me as much does adding two thick washers between the airframe engine mount afixture if the attachment hardware allows so. In this way the clearance may increase between cowl and screw flange backing enough to allow clearance sufficient for top cowl removal without fuss or muss. However, it appears that the propeller may actually turn left as viewed from the pilot seat as indicated by the permanent marker arrows drawn on the crankshaft propeller hub as referenced in this video. If that is in actuality the correct direction of turn then some consideration could be give to the p factor in that tbe descending blade will tend to generate more thrust which could effectively equate to greater torque during the descending blade passing the side cowl thus resulting in a larger gap in that side and in contrast a smaller gap on the opposite blade. While this may not be of much consideration while removing the top cowl with the engine stopped which is safest ideally. Still it might be reasonable or favorable to increase the Gap at the front. That said, the Gap could be made wider on the descending blade side to compensate for the anticipated grater torque if desirable. I suspect a combination of thick and thin washers may be allowable. Here I usually call the thick 1/8" and the thin 1/16". 😊

Hi Gavin. I’m glad to see you back. Happy that you are on the mend. I was intrigued by the cowling issue - the attachment of the top new the windscreen. I looked at images of complete Sonex aircraft on the internet and for the life of me it seems like the top portion isn’t going under anything. Looks flush mounted to the windscreen. So when the screws are removed it lifts straight up without having to pull it forward into the prop. I am NOT an expert, and do not have access to the plans so I may very well be wrong. Just mentioning what I appear to see on flying aircraft. Can Sonex or someone with a complete aircraft give you advice or send a photo of what this should look like and give some advice? The cowling has to be easily removable without removing the prop. Something just doesn’t look right. Just trying to help and I could be very wrong, but logically you should be able to remove the cowling without it being a puzzle box. Regardless, best of luck solving this. Take care.

Gavin, I'm so glad you're still alive and kicking! I was getting worried we wouldn't get to see you handiwork take flight. Take care.

So pleased to see you back at the project Gavin. Love to you both for Christmas and a New Year full of fun, happiness and above all good health. Jack & Jayne 💕

Great to see you back. Sounds one hell of a year!! Onwards and upwards….

Glad to see you back! Did you have insurance to cover the aircraft damage, or did the flying clubs membership dues rise accordingly? ;-)

Wonderful hearing about your tinkerings again. Good health and Happy Holidays!

Good to se you are getting back to yourself. Here's to a healthy 2025🎉

Welcome back, happy holidays and healthy new year to you and your wife❤

Gavin, I really enjoy your videos. I’m building a Fisher Dakota Hawk, but using the 100 hp Aerovee and excited to see you finish yours.

Gavin……..where are you?

What happened with Gavin?

Hello Gavin, had great fun following your engine build, when will it run the firs time? keep up the good work

Back to the future

Hello Gavin, In your last answer in this comment flow you wrote that you met some health issue. So first of all, I wish you a quick recovery. I have watched all your videos and greatly appreciated them ! Now I just ordered a "Complete airframe Sonex B kit" with the 80 hp Aerovee engine. Unfortunately, the lead time is now very long (16 to 20 weeks !). So I've plenty of time to complete my workshop installation ! I leave in France, now in Les Vosges, and I'd be interested to exchange with you when you'll be available. I wish you the better, Francis

Hi Gavin, where are you!???

If you haven't already figured out the baffle trimming issue, this is how I would do it. Using sheet aluminum, make a template of only the top center portion of the cowling that matches the curve of the cowling. You will be able to see how to trim the baffle without interference from the sides of the cowling. Trim the aluminum baffle until there is a 0.75 to 1-inch clearance between the top edge of the baffle and the template. Then use the 2-inch baffle material as previously suggested so that your trimming does not have to be precise.

Use the 2 in flat baffling material, instead of the Sonex supplied and then you have a margin of error

Smart move on the catch can, because the stuff that collects in the cans is nasty

Try putting paper clips on the alum baffle. Place the cowling back on, and it will push the paper clips down to the correct height.

Just following on from @anthonystrawbridge and his fine suggestions. I was pondering the trimming of the impossible to see baffle. Could you 3D print a spacer, or multiple spacers that sit in various places on the upper edge of the aluminium sheet with a sliding indicator built into them? Sort of a spot profile gauge where when you take off the upper cowl the spot gauges all indicate how far they’ve pressed down. Then approach the critical seal gap in increments as you get near to the desired gap? I’m sure this sounds much easier from the ‘General’s Armchair’ than it would be in reality … I was starting to think the baffle you’ve built was going to be such a good seal that the vent hole wasn’t going to be big enough to equalise the air pressure 😂

Do you think the small gap that you covered is there for the purpose of evacuating heat from the exposed exhaust pipe?

Will the inner rim of the prop hub spinner spacer spin with the prop? If so, will the inner ridge that you made to rest the cowling rub on the cowling as the spinner spacer spins?

You're supposed to heavily oil the blue nipple when installing it to not damage the rubber part of the hose. Also make sure all manufactured hoses are fully flushed with mineral spirits and compressed air so there is no remaining residue or any loose flaps of rubber possibly restricting flow.

Summit Racing Parts here in the USA supplies millions of hot rodders testing and developing these hoses ( manufacturers). John did a great going with this discount material: I compared it to my favorite supplier ( Eaton Aeroquip a local aerospace hose manufacturer faa pma rated). I'm pretty happy with this pricing, John did a good job sourcing a lower cost hose with the added benefit of hot rodder race track reviews. But yeah, Im a Parker Hannifin and Eaton fan but seriously the cost isn't warranted with the Sonex.

Why on earth would they suggest filing away a portion of the rocker when a new pushrod fitting is the correct answer? Thats ridiculous. Good on you for not taking the bad advice, Gavin. I also agree with you that the bleed nipple should be on top. I dont know how you would bleed air from the line if its on the bottom. If it were me and I wanted to install wheel pants, I'd edit the wheel pants to accommodate the ability to bleed the system, not the other way around.

Stumbled into this, nice work well explained, look forward to the next!

Given the long history that Sonex has with the VW engines one would think that they have worked out any errors in the design and are able to deliver a complete and correct engine kit consistently. Based on issues that you have seen this does not seem to be the case. I love the aircraft but I am inclined to install a factory built engine.