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@@Oldfashionedgarage likeliest culprit is the laser. The first time I did one of these the first laser was bad. They usually have a solder jumper that you have to solder if I remember right. Been a While since I’ve done one. Did you mess with any of the laser potentiometers? If you do be sure to mark their default spot with a marker before you change them. You always want to be able to go back to the default settings. Unfortunately sourcing parts for these is getting harder all the time. You may wan to grab another laser but trying the potentiometers can’t hurt as long as you mark them. Hope that helps!

@@daneolds515 Thank you for the reply. As for the solder jumper, do you mean the antistatic solder blob you have to de-solder? if so yes I did de solder that. I have not yet played with the pots as I am not sure which one I need to mess with . Do you still have the eBay seller from Hong Kong that you got your laser from?

@@Oldfashionedgarage I dug back through my ebay orders and it looks like the seller was etrade168. Looks like they are away right now. The blob was what I was talking about. Good luck and keep me posted! I'd love to hear where you get to with it. I have a new CDX that I need to refurb myself here soon. I'm planning to finish building my shop at my new house this fall and hope to start doing videos again this winter.

Generally I use kits from Console5.com which I heartily recommend. If you're buying direct from an electronics supplier you can't go wrong with Nichicon caps. I always try to get them if I can.

@@axelmenzel773 Hey, thanks for reaching out! Glad you enjoyed the video! I’m in the process of building out my new electronics shop. Hoping to get doing videos again sometime this year.

😆 Not the first time that has gotten me.

Yeah I was watching that part of the video where you had everything put together good, but the Xstation wasn't booting because the lid was registering open. I was basically yelling at the screen at the point when you took it all apart again to check your solder joints. Lol. You got later on though. 👍

Yep! That's why I try to show my whole process in these videos. Figuring things out is a big part of the process. Sometimes you'll figure it out right away, sometimes you'll hunt for it. Sometimes you just overlook something obvious. 😆@@Matt-ic1po

@@daneolds515 Yeah installing these mods can be a complicated trial and error process. Especially with 30 to 40 year old hardware and the many different hardware revisions. I am currently installing the Xstation in my PS1 and the NesRGB video upgrade in my original Nintendo. Well thanks for doing the video. It is definitely good to see the learning trial and error process.

@@Matt-ic1po Awesome! Let me know how they turn out!

That’s awesome, I had no idea. Thanks for letting me know. As for replacing the ball top as long as it’s the same thread size you’re good to go.

I see but is the ball top removable on the default lever? I haven't had the chance to try it yet.@@daneolds515

Hey, thanks so much! In the process of getting my new shop put together. Hoping to really start up again in the spring. Cheers!

Hey, thanks for saying that! I’ve never gotten a ton of traction on RUclips but I’ve always enjoyed making these videos for the people that these videos DO find their way to.

Glad I could help!

@@daneolds515 hey thanks for the reply. Everything works but for some reason after the cap job my cd Rom2 unit will not work with the system that I recapped but will work with other systems I have. The re capped system is a core grafx and the other two that will work in the ifu-30 cd rom2 unit are an original pc engine and core grafx 2 never recapped all original. Is it possible because of the recap that the unit is drawing more power and not giving enough power to cd rom unit ? Cd rom will power on and spin up then it will glitch and power off. Other systems work fine with it

I figured out what happened, be careful with the soldered on ground shield it shorted out a something to the cd rom unit. Too much solder on from factory, cleaned removed access solder on ground shield and ground shield pcb connections and re attached. Everything works now!

@@MrAlexthemachine That's great to know, glad you got it sorted!

I always go with Kester solder. I also use liquid flux to help things along. Don’t use unleaded solder. It’s WAY harder to work with. Just be sure to have good ventilation.

@@daneolds515 63-37 or 60-40?

Thanks for the sub! More videos to come soon-ish!

Thanks! I haven't posted in a while since I've moved and am currently building out my new shop. More to come in the future though!

And which EPROM have you got, could be awesome to have nice picture of your board with maskrom/EPROM 😊

Hey, so good to hear from you! I really love your work! Your Infinikeys have saved several of my boards and I use your USB decoders with my supergun. Cheers! Got any fun new projects cooking?

Sorry to hear about that! Hit me up on Retro Game Boards or shoot me an email and we’ll talk.

I just got a cheapy on Amazon. It has worked pretty well for me for a few years. Haven’t shelled out for an expensive hakko yet.

Just with a standard external Elgato HD60 and the pocket dock.

Oh no! Yeah, unfortunately that was the fate of many consoles back in the day. I've been able to repair a handful that had that happen but it can be touch and go. What all did you end up having to do to get it fixed up? I'll definitely agree that the CDX is a challenge to get into and work on but it doesn't hold a candle to the Victor Wondermega. I fixed up one that had power issues and audio issues. Took me over two years to get fixed up. I actually documented the process over at the retro game boards forum if you want to check it out. www.retrogameboards.com/t/danexmurder-s-mods-and-repairs-thread/2123/169?u=danexmurder

Hey thank you! And thanks for watching! Hope you found it helpful.

Nope! Didn’t see anything. Happy to help out however I can though.

Which tutorial are you looking at? I followed the instructions from Dan's Projects here: www.dansprojects.com/GCDual_Install.html On Wiidual installations you have to remove components based on which type of Sync you use. You can see those instructions here: dansprojects.com/wiidual_install.html Thanks for watching!

I usually use 78S05 voltage regulators. You can usually find them at mouser, digikey, or other electronics suppliers. Alternatively you could get one from console5 dot com.

@@daneolds515 Cool, thank you!

​@@daneolds515would a 7805 regulator work?

@@enjoythesho1992 Yep! The 78S05s are just more efficient.

Yep, it's the same as in this video. This NES wasn't modded with an RGB board.

@@daneolds515 thanks for the info. i did it without a capacitor. works. so what does the capacitor do? sorry for sonmany questions. im new to this and want to do it the right way

Glad you liked it! Hope it was helpful for you.

Yep! Definitely depends on the game. I usually play Capcom fighters which is why I like the octagon gate. I think for shmups a square gate is better.

Awesome! Glad you got it up and running!

Thanks for watching!

Hey, thanks so much! Glad it was helpful. It feels so good to restore something to full working order. I’ll definitely post some more videos in the future but it may be a little while. I’m about to move and will have to set up a new shop. Tons more projects planned though. Happy holidays!

@moneytree400 What was the defect? I have one that I got in Japan and it spins the cd but doesn't play the games.

Hi! Composite and RF are still enabled. You have to switch off RGB via a switch or controller command to switch from RGB to composite but that’s it. In fact you can even send composite over the AV multi-out. The yellow jack will still work though.

@@daneolds515 OK. Yesterday I install NESRGB on my NES, but AV and RF only shows gray screen...🤔 Maybe i did something wrong...

@@arzarello Did you install a palette switch? In the past I've used a 4 position rotary switch. That way I'd have composite, P1, P2, P3.

@@daneolds515 I installed the paddle switch via the NES controller. RF and composite don´t have colors, only white and gray image.

@@arzarello so you installed the Borti I/O board to control everything with the controller?

I use a HAS Supergun with an undamned decoder. There are several good superguns out there you could look into. I think the Behar bros. Just did one too.

If you did it, you aren’t a doofus! Great job!

You bet! Happy to help! Let me know how the recap goes!

Hey, good to hear from you. Are you running the expansion audio into an RGB board or are you just doing your audio expansion to the NES its self? Depending on which you are doing will change which pin your are connecting to. If you are doing expansion audio into an RGB board you want to go from pin 9 to pin 2 and run your wire out to the RGB board. If you are not running into an RGB board you wan to connect pin 9 to pin 3. I explain this a bit more in depth here: ruclips.net/video/QkgmKIpnPeU/видео.html Hope that helps! Good luck!

@@daneolds515 Hi again !!!! I got it. Only I'm doing the audio expansion with RC filter circuit using 100K and 1 microfarad and that's operating correctly. So it's neccesary get the audio source from the FC cartridge across the 60 to 72 adapter to NES CPU. Finally I can hear the original lost audio channel in my amp. I'm really greatfull by your time and attention. Best regards.

@@ivanandrade3876 Awesome! Glad you got it to work! Have fun checking out all those games with the extra audio! I suggest giving Lagrange Point a play-through if you like RPGs. It has some really awesome music and in a lot of ways almost feels like a 16-bit RPG. I actually did a video on how to make a translated one of your own too! ruclips.net/video/vxWMzUDLqAo/видео.html

You bet! Thanks for watching!

@@daneolds515 we have a similar fascination for old CRTs! I have a similar racket ;-)

You bet! Glad you found it helpful! Get it all cleaned up and it should keep lasting you for a while depending on the state of the laser/caps.

I’d try to treat that with a recap and potentiometer adjustment. If that doesn’t work then I’d try to get a new laser.

Yep, If I remember correctly we'd talked over what to do with it and he just decided to go with the simple screen fix for now. Down the road I think pretty much all of these are going to need to be replaced.

Hey, thanks for the heads-up Clint! All fixed up.

I didn’t but it shouldn’t be too hard to do.

That’s a separate audio port.

Darn, I thought it could be used as AV/Compound video out you know like those mid 2000's mini dvd players.

@@gerardo_contreras That’d be super cool! As far as I know it’s just a line level audio output. Super interesting device in general. I’d love to add one to my collection some day.

The CDX also works as a portable audio CD player, so you would plug in headphones there. It wasn't great for that though since it didn't have anti-skip.

Pretty sure they are 35mm. The ones I used were Ex Gear bi-color ball tops from Arcade Shock.

Bummer! Yeah, I've found that using tweezers really helps with getting the coating off of the inside of the lens. Fore me the most nerve wracking part is setting the lens into the shell. Gotta get it just right!

@@daneolds515 true, you only have one try to make centered right

Yep! Game Gears always need a full recap. These days I prefer to replace the audio and power boards all together. Thanks for watching!