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Very helpful stuff. Regarding the length of the rod: should the nail head be flush with the axle end in engaged mode?

what seat is it mate brooks special,what mudguards are they,is the seat post alloy,would,nt you put on a big 56-58 chainring

Nice to hear another Geordie, i run the Moulton F frame group on Facebook if you need any info!

I filed mine in my filing cabinet oh sorry pink sack for recycling ♻️

👍👍 Good luck

Good luck.

That "old" style dynamo caught my eye. Where did you get it? I have a bike with an IGH and motor on the front wheel, so no more room for modern dynamo hub. You may have the perfect solution for my perfect problem.

all i saw is a fox or someones dog lol

Thanks for the video, the postman is bringing me my own Moulton to restore, but it's a long way from Staffordshire to Tokyo. I'm now collecting parts, and looking forward to having something to ride along the beach in Kamakura.

Eventful night then

well, there we are conclusively undeniable proof.......that people will post anything.

I like this, I'm a fellow Geordie and like your set up, I'm halfway through a restoration of a deluxe and I'm just about to tackle the rear wheel, I'm going for the old four speed rebuild.

Are you on Facebook? I run the Moulton F frame group if your interested or you may even be there already, i am a Geordie also, so nice to see another into these bikes, on my 6th and 7th builds currently.

The advantage of the S5 2 is that it has a much more positive action in super high and super low when the spring on the left side of the axle automatically pushes the sliding sun into postive engagement. Two indicator chains instead of the Bell Crank. The upside down left hand trigger pulls the chain out against the spring to disengage for the right hand side to be a regular High -Middle - Low 3 speed. Release it and you have Super high- Direct drive-super low. Much more reliable . Easier than conversions too.

Great to see all the parts cleaned up, painted, polished etc. Gives me some hope for mine.

I'm rebuilding one myself - though not quite as bad as yours was, it's still fighting me at every step. I'm going down the lighter/more modern upgraded component. I'm documenting it on my channel if you're interested.

What is the bolt called that holds the nail in.. The original 4 speed toggle chains are really difficult to find.. I'd like to try your method

So if you were to not change that sun then you would have four speeds but with easier pull to Bottom on the second lever. But if you tried to use super-high the pedal effort will push back against the second cable and cause some harmful clicking. If I do the mod on my early-type FW the sun gear should be correct, I believe.

You explain why you wanted a lower gear, for particularly steep hills. Alternatively if you had had the supper-high you could go faster than a regular bike frame will hold the road. I have on a low geared bike poor frame scared myself on a corner which I have gone much faster on my sports bike without thinking that I was moving at great speed.

This is a good introduction to the bare basics of what you are going to do. If I do the modification to my Lenton sports' hub, which is a late early type FW, I am really only wishing for B to work as I am too fat and old to pedal fast up a hill but get off and push. I have put links on my blog which is about Dynohub maintance but FG and FW consequently are relevant. Thanks I do my repairs in my garden and hope not to loose bits in the lawn, which I have done.

I very nearly spent £35 on a new 4spd indicator chain, but I've got all the bits kicking around to do this apart from the sun gear, so I'll end up with more gears for less money! Thanks very much

Thanks for posting these videos - I am considering modifying an FW to make it a 3 speed extra wide ratio and then running it with two sprockets - Would then be similar to the Brompton BWR 6 speed. I will need the HSA 345 sun part you show on your earlier video. About 20 years ago we converted some AW hubs to have two sprockets. We took the standard SA sprocket and I had a small engineering shop put them on a surface grinder to make a thinner sprockets that could then use the narrower derailleur chain 3/32. With the thinner sprockets. With the thinner sprockets you could mount two on the sturmey archer driver just!. From memory here was a need to fiddle about with the spacers. We ran these for many years with out any problems on the moultons.

You saved the bike from being scrapped! A fine job!

Good advice about the shocks. The hydogas suspension is superior and worth preserving.

great great jobs dude !!

Nice to see another Geordie into old f frames, i run the Moulton f frame group on Facebook and in Newcastle, feel free to join fella.

The only problem I have had with the K series was the expansion tank cap. When the engine was up to temp and the coolant fan kicked in then coolant would gush out from the cap thus losing water causing overheating and blowing the head gasket. I do agree with what you say about the oem gasket they are a bad design but the engine is a great motor. If you get a blown gasket and replace it with the new multilayer then you have a good motor even lotus use the Kseries . Great information in your video 👍

Well done. Thanks for the inspiration. I am looking forward to part 2.

Harry you are the ONLY person that I've heard tell it like it is. Everyone moans and bitches about the various options to replace the hydrogas system but it's the tin-foil, pathetic, frail mountings that MG outsourced to some pre-school kid to design that's the real culprit. Throw any more than a freshly baked custard tart at these mounts and it's going to rip the thin lining out of the rear RH side of the engine bay - as I can attest. Now I have a pile of MGF spares that handled really good for a while with the Suplex cans. What does frustrate me is the Suplex didn't include any warnings about over stressing rebound. Well told.