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So two must be right handed threads and two left handed threads to turn toward the body. So likely they are marked when they arrive indicating what side they feed into. Also they come in different diameters so you need to measure your existing peg hole diameter.

The pegs are marked on the ends. Bass and Treble sides of the peg box. "B" for the G & D strings and "T" for the A & E stings.

I just receied my Knilling pegs. They are marked L and R on the ends. However if it put the R in the E or A side, the threads will screw in the direction of tightening the strings. I understand they are supposed to screw into the peg box in the direction of loosening the strings. What gives?

It would be nice to see close up pictures of the pegs and the reamer. My initial reaction is this is not for me. I could change my mind, we'll see.

MMURD -- ... oh, it's still moving. now that's just cruel, lol

Don't forget the addition of more pencil marks for lube in the bridge grooves and nut. Oh, also since this looks like a nice violin, to avoid that blown fray out the other end when you were reaming, I've seen some luthiers lightly dab some sort of alcohol solution on the holes to gently soften the varnish Knilling recommends glue, eh? Well guess that means I'm going Wittner

very helpful, thanks

Excellent presentation!

The very first geared tuners for Violin were invented in 1860 & these tuners pointed down from the Head stock so that they were out of the way. Tommy Jarrell popularized the use of Geared tuners on a Violin because they made tuning the instrument simpler.

@UCNN4EekLWgGdnTYBBgyTSIQ Tommy Jarrell popularized the use of machine heads on a Fiddle so much that using machine heads on a Violin, Viola, or Cello has gone back up can you believe it? The Tommy Jarrell style tuning machines for Violin look pretty rad & they're a little bit lighter weight than Friction pegs cause they're a tad bit smaller. The lighter weight makes holding the instrument simpler.

Great demonstration. Thank you

I noticed the pegs are marked with a “t” (treble) or a “b” (bass) on the end, so you can be sure you’re putting them on the correct side.

Which reamer does this need, a 1:25 or a 1:30?

I've installed these in one of my fiddles and it was very easy. Take your time and be careful if you need to saw the peg shorter. I didn't use any glue and it worked out just fine. I am going to install them on my other fiddles. You do not need fine tuners on your strings once these are in place but I do keep one on the E string.

Do you prefer these over the wittner pegs? If yes why? if you can say.

Thank you for your video! I don't know about other people but you are pretty professional explaining the process. As for the glue perhaps is just business. If you have more than one violin and decide to use the pegs on another, you may need to buy a new set.

The internal gearing SLIPS?!

yeesh... good thing EVS offers to install them for you

how does a little "girl" cry?

The reamer from the hardware store won't necessarily have the standard taper used on violin pegs. Then you are in trouble.

Put guitar tuning machines on a violin. Please do a tutorial like that...

I was thinking about installing these on a cello. When you are inserting the peg/thread and checking the fitting, do you use any inward pressure or just let the threaded peg screw itself into the hole?

are these reamers the same as the ones on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4140-Repairmans-Taper-Reamer/dp/B005W17DFC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1424050504&sr=8-1&keywords=reamer

@ john cadd, I worked in the Knilling shop from 96 to 2009. You should not leave out the glue. We actually did have some returned to us for pegs unscrewing out for lack of glue.Before the pegs had threads they were bare shaft and before that, they had metal collars.You did need glue for those. But I have worked with shops that do not like glue. I prefer to use it. you don't need much. We used Gorilla glue on the Knilling instruments. You only need a dab. He pretty much did this the way the directions were written. However the one thing we did do in the shop that was different is, Sanding the peg end. We used 220 and 600 and then buffed with a piece of leather for the glass shine ( shop standards). You can also get these pegs in multiple sizes for over sized holes. Another tip that we did since I had to install thousands of these. I would fit the first peg. Then I would mark the reamer or wrap tape around the reamer where it meets the peg box for a stop. That was a time saver for us to do the other 3 without installing each one multiple times to bury the threads. Another tip since the perfection pegs are a 4 to 1 ratio. We used an electric screwdriver with a Daddario string winder. Saves a lot of time if you have a shop and will be doing a lot of these. I kept the same method for my shop. Knilling also made an instruction video. I'm not sure if they still send these out since I left the company in 2009. Just a cool little thing we did for a couple of years is that we had the peg head company who invented these come to our shop and show us how to put them together . So we had a lathe and this device that the inventor Chuck Herrin made. We would actually produce our own pegs in the shop. I do agree with the padding on the table. We had our benches covered with material. In my own shop, I did the same thing. I just prefer it over a towel or a bare table.

What’s the material of those pegs? Do they make them for Flamenco guitars as well?

Creepy!

do you use it also on the E String? BTW Lauffer peg has 1:19.

could you please show me a video while you tuning the E String with your Knilling Perfection? That will be great! Thanks a lot! BTW whats the weight of one peg?

@iutube789 It takes a bit more winding because of the gearing, but aside from that...

I wish the table had some padding .It feels bad to hear the violin rattling around. The video needs some editing to keep strictly on topic. The reamer should only be the correct type. All that needs editing .It`s very messy. I am not anti gears though. You need a clear close up to show the screw threads against the pegbox. Lose the bit about glue. That will freak out most people.

I have wittner fine-tune pegs on my instrument. They are much easier to install no screw or glue just push'em in. They are very precise with a 1:8.5 ratio and very light... I love them.

GREAT!!

This context of the toy information was coming from someone with NO reputation anywhere. This was for emerging artists just starting out. Also my information came direct from a prominent toy designer in the field.

@jeriellsworth I wonder if that mightn't be a difference between the engineering-side and art-side perspectives into the industry. Being completely outside it myself I'm entitled to no opinion at all (not that that stops me :). But I'd find it believable that the reasons behind arms-lengthing could be different for "pay me for my idea/engineering design" versus "pay me for my artistic design".

Her comment isn't 100% true about toy companies. Many have no problem talking to you if you've managed to make a reputation in the toy field. I believe they do this to filter out the flood of people approaching them with obvious ideas. I get suggestions all the time are not novel.

@carvindc400 But remember, I'm not any sort of authority here. Always be careful making permanent alterations to your instrument, like taking away wood with a reamer. I'd be very,very hesitant to ream the pegholes any farther than needed to get the threads completely in. If there's so little of the rotating section completely inside the pegbox that you can't wrap the string a few times once the threads are all in, contact Knilling or ask a luthier before getting too creative.

@carvindc400 If the pegs are completely threaded in, it'll be hard to ream it out to put them deeper, because the taper of the peg outside of the thread is more abrupt than the normal 30:1 (because the gears are inside there). If you opened it enough to get significantly in, the threads wouldn't engage the wood solidly. If you have enough of the rotating section to get at least maybe 4 turns of the string on, I'd try cutting the string shorter so you didn't need so much wrapped around...

What do you suggest I do? Thank you!

Hello! Thanks for posting this video. I just got my Knillings pegs for my viola, but I noticed something different from what you`ve shown. The threads disappear completely when I screw the body of the peg in, so the peg's body is NOT flush with the internal part of the peg box - it seems to be a problem since the string when it wraps around the peg , it snugs in that little space , inside the pegbox hole. I'm afraid the string might break. I did not used the reamer yet, bcause the threads are in

@emdeeeff I think I may follow your steps and get some of these pegs. I too only play as a hobby, and tunning is such a pain. Thanks for the info, the video is really informative!

@solracselbor Oh, I'm not a luthier. I'm not even a violinist; I'm a computer programmer. I just take lessons as a hobby, and prefer not spending many minutes and much invective fighting friction pegs to get in tune :) Yes, it's purely ornamental. You'll often see it called a ebony or ebonized C-ring. That bottom bit of the neck there is actually part of the violin's back, not the neck itself. It's not terribly new; several Strads are similarly accented for instance.

Absolutely fantastic video! I think it would be awesome if you recorded yourself repairing violins (if you do that), not as a DIY video but more as an informative video. I have a question that's a bit off topic: when you turned that violin around on the back I saw a black outline on the lower part of the neck. Lately I've been seeing a number of violins with that black outline. Is that a stylistic thing, or is there more to it? Thanks for this!