- Видео 10
- Просмотров 35 090
Moparmuscle 87
Добавлен 18 мар 2014
I'm a farm kid from the Midwest now living in western North Carolina and working as an engineer in the motorsports industry. I recently purchased a retired Dodge R5P7 NASCAR engine and am working to put it in my 1973 Plymouth Duster to make a Drag and Drive setup! This channel is devoted to my friends back home that want to keep up with what I'm doing on my projects and anyone else who would like to follow along. Enjoy!
Assembling My Dodge NASCAR V8 (Part 2)
In this video I wrap up putting the top end (heads, intake, valley tray, carburetor, and distributor) on my Dodge R5P7 engine. By the end of the video it is ready to take to the engine dyno (sneak peek of that day at the end)!
Просмотров: 3 454
Видео
Flow Bench Testing A P7 Dodge Head
Просмотров 9212 месяца назад
In this video, Mike shows me how to use his SuperFlow SF-600 flow bench to put actual CFM measurements to my bench racing theories and discover some sad truths about the cylinder heads that came with my engine. By the end of the video we've made a major upgrade as far as the cylinder heads for this project go.
How To: Assemble Your Dodge NASCAR Engine Part 1
Просмотров 3,1 тыс.5 месяцев назад
The block is finish machined and I finally have all the parts to begin assembly.
Avoiding custom components + the block is BACK from the machine shop!
Просмотров 2356 месяцев назад
In this video I make a "custom" flange for a starter for a Ford small block to avoid the use of other, more costly custom components. Plus, the block is back from the machine shop and ready to assemble!
Working on my 1973 Plymouth Duster while we wait + Update on the R5P7
Просмотров 738Год назад
In this video I take care of some odds and ends on the car to keep it drivable before we swap the engine. I also have an update to share on my R5 Nascar engine block that is at the machine shop right now.
Some History and Oddities of My Evernham R5P7
Просмотров 4,2 тыс.Год назад
In this video I go over some of the history behind Evernham Engines and firsthand information from Doug, the guy who originally built my R5P7 at Evernham sometime in the mid 2000's. I also cover a couple things to help identify an R5 and to watch out for if you happen to stumble across one.
The $$$ are adding up fast... How NOT to assemble a valvetrain
Просмотров 5 тыс.Год назад
Today we're going through the head stud removal and prep for the block to head to the machine shop, along with taking a look at some of the valve train components. I go through a quick mock up checking P to V clearance and point out some things that I've found in my heads and valvetrain that are going to need addressed.
I bought a Dodge R5P7, time to get to work!
Просмотров 9 тыс.Год назад
A quick overview of the retired Dodge NASCAR engine I purchased a couple weeks back and what my plans are for it.
Good stuff. Friend of mine had couple pettys cup engines. I’ve got 3 of pettys nascar 426 hemis. Including the 64 Daytona 500 one. I just subscribed
@@Ron_Kirkpatrick that's awesome! Thanks!
Wondering if y’all running the valve springs directly on the aluminum spacers / pucks, or is there a hardened shim? Tend to think they’ll be making metal, without the hardened shims.
@@georgedreisch2662 yes I believe I forgot to mention that. There is a hardened steel locator that fits under the spring and also registers the ID of the inner spring around the valve guide. Otherwise yes it would be making metal like in the video where I tore down the engine and the previous builder had used hardware store washers under the springs...
Thank God a non LS build. Love this i am a Ford fan.
@@tomhamilton9140 the LS needs a small block to look up to haha. Funny that this engine is about 50% Ford based.
Blower?
Possibly in a future build!
Excellent detail
Sounds amazing
Dyno, Dyno, Dyno!!! Love the build and the precision that you accomplish your build with.
❤ Great information, thank you!! If you are serious about building your channel, post a 30min video every day for 30 days! 😉
I live in NC, I have a 72 Challenger with a R5P7 Arrington motor, Danny rebuilt the motor a few years ago
Danny is a good dude! Very knowledgeable and helped me out a ton on this engine.
Going to be a very nice engine. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Where did you find all the torque specs? Putting mine together soon but can’t find anything
Shoot me a message with your email on Instagram @georgemw17 and I can get you a list together. All of the specs mentioned in the video have come from my machinist or customers of mine that build these engines regularly. A few can be found on CP or jesel's website but I'll make a full list.
What do u estimate the cost of all the parts and machining? This is really an amazing build. I would love to do this for my 72 Charger. I am loving my 440 but this would be so awesome to shift some gears with. I have always dreamed of a second gen 426 build but this is awesome. Can’t wait to hear you shifting thru the gears.
I'll cover it in an upcoming video, but currently I have about 8500 in the engine setup not including anything else in the car.
what are your hp and rpm goals. Thanks for the vid!
I'll know a little more when we flow the heads on Friday, but I'm thinking around 750hp at about 8500rpm! But I'll probably shift it closer to 9000.
Digging the progress!
😊 Promo_SM
That's cool that it has roller cam bearings instead of the standard cam bearings in the engine
You can buy a complete R5p7 from Eaton Race engines out of Wilson NC for $16,500,000
Great Content! I'm currently working on a retired GM R07 engine! Not nearly as far along as you are with it. I need to get the block bored and honed. Currently trying to figure out all of the fasteners it needs! There are a ton of specialty fasteners!
That Duster will be radical as F!
cool stuff subbed for more updates
Try Eatmon Race Engines.... heads are copy of Chev SB2 layout... good engine..we have many here in Australia...
Yeah they have a few R5p7 engines all fresh and complete for $16 and a half thousand dollars
How much power can the blocks hold
The blocks seem fairly stout, there is quite a bit of iron in them. I have seen turbo builds up in the 14-1500hp range. I am not sure what Dodge's design limits were but these engines made 8-900hp NA with reliability. I question the limitations of the Siamese deck particularly at the 1000+hp levels or with large amounts of boost.
Wow those are some huge valves
Where did you find that and how much do they run and oh how much power can they hold
Way cool! Thanks for all your video. I’m learning a lot! What’s your target red line rpm?
I plan to spin it until it stops making power, somewhere around the 8700-9200rpm window I would guess. It all depends on where the cam and heads are the happiest.
thats great! would love to see it on the dyno! @@moparmuscle8749
@@dwade277 certainly! There will be more videos as parts show up and I have more content to capture. I will definitely be videoing the day that we dyno it!
On using the Sharpie on the lash cap, I've always tried to put the roller in the middle of the lash cap close to max lift, especially with racing springs. Usually there is a compromise to be made towards the exhaust port side, around 0.025". But my marks are usually shaded like your exhaust side looked. I'm building 468 BBC, blown on alcohol. This is going to be a beautiful engine to build, what a lucky guy!!
Thanks for the tip! I'm not a racing engine builder by trade so I'm always keen to learn something new.
@@moparmuscle8749 Are your valve stems 5/16" or 3/8"? Just curious... Looking forward to seeing your motor go together.
@@craigpierce7996 without having them in front of me I can't say for sure but I think I remember they are 7mm in the intake, 8mm on the exhaust. I'm looking forward to putting it together! It's on the back burner at the moment with machine work.
Hi, Do u know by any chance the height of the block? Meaning maximum height not deck height?
I can measure it for you when I have the block back from the machine shop, I am not sure off the top of my head unfortunately.
Reminds me of the poly head.
💯💪🙏👍
What’s wrong with your crankshaft? I have an “inside” connection with the manufacturer.
The #1 rod journal got beat up pretty bad and all the other journals have some scoring from metal going through the bearings. It could maybe be fixed but my machinist had another one laying around that should work for a lot cheaper. Tried finding a little longer stroke crank but to no avail.
@@moparmuscle8749 Most of them are 3.250” stroke. I think I have some in the shop if you’re interested. Brand new, needs balancing, nitride and finish polish to ship.
so this is one of the Aussie engines I can confirm still living and breathing in my vg valiant wide body race /street car(same as a dodge dart)
I have been going through the build sheet from my r5 p7 it is engine number 0818 with 2 piece crank seal ,kryptonite crank,2006 penski front and top end built by Eatmon race engines in North Carolina .
More info on these would be great as I have one in my valiant .It was rebuilt be eatmon racing engines ex penski team engine.
There are a couple more videos on the channel with a few more details but let me know what you'd like to see and I will try my best. There will be much more engine detailed content coming once I have the block back from the machine shop and we start assembling.
I like seeing stuff that’s different. ANYTHING, but an LS or an EBay / chinesium turbo build,,, lol. I await progress, this is a cool project.
I am building a LA318 X-block with a s475....and a T56....hmm, small world. 🤔
Really cool. Interesting to see how ”skeletolized” the block is. How much lighter is it to a oe-engine?
Honestly I'm not sure, but I'll weigh it for you when I get the block back. My guess is not much if any, there's metal added in other parts of the block that I'm thinking will offset the skeleton look on the top end.
Man those heads ought to flow some crazy numbers, can't wait to see this progress. Have you thought about a turbo 😈
Haha the idea has come up, I do have a spare S475 in the garage. My thought was eventually putting a blower on it since this engine won't make a ton of torque down low due to its short stroke. But the first leg of the build will just be high RPM NA power for now.
@@moparmuscle8749 Some people would have you believe there's no replacement for displacement, I argue that RPM is an excellent replacement for displacement. Then there's the weezers. Another alternative✌️🍺🍺🍺😆😝😛 Edit: Oh yeah, slick Duster..🏴☠️ Thanks for the post
Really interesting build.
The spark plugs seem unique. I wonder if they are intended to function kinda like a pre-chamber, to reduce detonation? Can you share brand and P/N?
Great question! They're like an Autolite 3910x or similar, they're what's called a surface gap spark plug. They put the tip of the spark plug closer to the surface or wall of the chamber and don't have to be indexed. They run extremely cold so as not to create a hot spot in the chamber and greatly reduce the chance of pre-ignition from the spark plug. I'll try them out along with some other ones, but probably not a necessity for what I'm doing with it.
@@moparmuscle8749 ok…, guess what’s throwing me, is it don’t look like a surface gap plug, I’ve had any experience with. Back in the day, (-70’s,-80’s), surface gap plugs were pretty much nitro motor and 2-stroke thing. For the recessed insulator, forming somewhat of a chamber, and the gaps in the circumferential ground electrode, I was thinking it might function as a passive pre-chamber. I wouldn’t be surprised if they didn’t use a more conventional plug for the cold start, and switch these in after the initial start.
@@georgedreisch2662 interesting observation on it, I'll have to look a little further into it. I am by no means an expert so I'll ask my machinist what he knows about them. I'm always looking to learn something new. Thanks for the discussion!
@@moparmuscle8749 you mention having a contact at Comp Cams. Their being a lot of Cup experience there, they might be able to provide some insight on those spark plugs. Might also talk to them regarding your cam, springs, etc, as that burnishing of the locks would be indicative of loss of valve train control. Maybe able to dredge up some more history too, as they’ve had lots of R&D experience across the Cup teams.
Looks like a fun project, and probably easier to get parts for then one of the other open decks from Chrysler - the Aluminium Slant Six - but the manifolds and the like will be as hard to find as original HyperPak units. Will be fun in the Duster, you'll need a custom K-Frame to take advantage of the dry-sump designs extra clearance - getting it lower in the chassis will help a lot for cornering and controlling weight transfer on launch. The 'Feather Duster' model had stamped aluminium hood and front quarters, if they fit yours that will help with moving mass rearwards for better traction off the line. Don't let anyone put you off with whining about open deck - it offers better cooling for race applications, and when the bores wear to where they can't be machined, you cut them out an convert to Wet Sleeve and go bigger in capacity with no one noticing,... :)
I noticed that they used caged needle bearings for the camshaft bearings. I wondered over the years why I never saw them used more often?
Expense would be my best guess. Journal bearings work 95% of the time and are cheap and almost all OE blocks use them. These bearings are only really necessary if the engine has extremely high valve spring pressures and operates at a high RPM for extended periods of time, or at least that's my understanding.
It’s always been used in that era of nascar, all manufacturers used the same setup. Standard now on all high end engines
Some fascinating history. When this engine ran, how much horsepower did it make. And what will you make? Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
On the datasheet that the pistons were ordered on I believe it was rated at 840hp. Anything over 800hp I'll be happy with, it should be more than achievable especially since we're putting some modern valve train components in it out of the current generation of Cup engines. You'll see that in the next video hopefully! Thanks for watching!
Love the videos man! I have a 1970 dart that I one day plan to run a r5p7 in and do drag and drive events as well so very cool to see your videos and learn some more info on them
You bought a r5...im sorry. Hope you have alot of cash and about 5 to shelf machinist. Your gonna need them.
It's not as easy as it looks that's for sure
I used to race a 340 Super Stock Duster and Demon back in the 70's. Back then the W2 heads were some of the best heads. My one buddy picked up a experimental set of 340 heads from a factory sponsored guy but I never got a chance to see them. Not sure if he ever completed that engine as the W5 aluminum heads were then the hot setup. Things were the best one day and obsolete the next. Glad you're putting out these videos because I've seen pictures of the complete Nascar Mopar but never disassembled. I'll be following your progress. I still have my 71, 340 Demon 4speed with 14,355 original miles. Mostly stock with a bigger street cam.
It's like a BBC head, can't believe they went open deck! I guess with a open deck, it needs 6 bolts per hole, very interesting, I'm not a dodge guy, drive a dodge, but better than a Ford anyway! 😆, Still cool, I'd brase up that hole, it is iron? But still can be fixed, the guy who caused the problem would never touch my engine ever! If you check a bearing like that, you have a TQ wrench in hand when you do it!!
The open deck is to help cooling efficiency since Nascar engines experience very high water temperatures. Not the best for cylinder sealing but you're correct, that's where the 6 head bolts help out. The block is regular gray cast iron so it's best not to weld on it, you'll see how we fix it without welding in an upcoming video!
I’m guessing 60mm camshaft what’s the lifter bore angle 48 degrees
Correct, it is a 60mm cam bore. The intake lifter bores are 45° and the exhaust lifter bores are 51° (I believe) since the block is designed for only a canted valve head.
Nope, I'm out. The parts list isn't even on a piece of cardboard. Motor won't run.
Nice video. Waiting to see the build.
Thanks Duane! I'll be getting to it soon, the block and heads made it to the machine shop this weekend. Video will be out on that soon!
Just subscribed. The springs needed ID locators that are hardened or heat treated. That will stop the wear. The washers on there were to small and to soft. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.