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@@sifarcher I wouldn't recommend forcing anything, but the covers and things come off easy enough to see if anythings broken

@@runcycleskixc mild steel, probably 1mm, maybe 1.2. I think stainless 0.5 would be easy, 1mm you'd have to check

@@jdmjesus6103 Thank you!

@@florimbaj it was amazon, it would be a dead link now anyway.

@@Lexus_SC just play the video backwards. Sorry couldn't resist, I don't have the car here anymore so not possible im afraid.

@@jdmjesus6103 😂

@@MrBarrynicholas you pull them to release the hinges so you can raise the lid. I probably could have explained that a bit better

@@jdmjesus6103 Thanks for getting back to me. My problem is when trying to open the roof, the boot opens fine and the roof releases from above the windscreen, but then everything stops.

@@MrBarrynicholas OK, well this procedure is really just to manually operate the roof in emergencies or if it gets out of sequence somehow. If yours is stopping at the same point each time then it could be either a jam or more likely a limit/ position switch is not working correctly. Best bet is to get it on a decent scan tool and check the live data. IIRC the switches are all in pairs (L+R) so it should be easy to see which, if any are at fault. This car actually had a faulty one, but all it was was a loose screw. Hopefully yours is as simple!

@@jdmjesus6103 Thanks for you help.

@@SaosinComeClose best way to learn! That's how I started, albeit a civic.

@@djmidas nice. I wish they were all that simple!

@@FOHfive unlikely, try adjusting the stops or maybe the hinges, but start small with them. Obviously check for any obstructions first

North East, where are you?

Oxfordshire, Do you have any contact details...?

@@sebastiandurrant3374 pretty far then. I trade under 'Future Racing Developments' although I must say, diagnosis without the car in front of me would be pretty difficult.

It's been a while since i did this so I could be getting mixed up but I believe the two manual releases that I briefly mention in the video could be related to that. 8:20 in the video, 2 cable releases. It should really be plugged into some diagnostics though, there might be a switch not operating due to something being bent or whatever

@@jdmjesus6103unplug it and put power to it .power to the neg and ground to the power to put it back down

Mine isn't, but I can't comment on if they've changed the spec or not. A 3 phase one would make more sense

there is a 230V and 400V version of this machine

Thanks very much!

Thank you very much! I bought a big chunk of bar stock on ebay and turned them on my small lathe. One is straight and the other has a curve to it, but I just cut 3 angles each side with the top slide by hand then blended everything with files and sandpaper. They aren't hardened, they would no doubt benefit from it but if they ever get too damaged I'd just make some more. Concentricity is key, so I used the 4 jaw chuck but there's that much flex in any wheeling setup that it's not necessary to be super precise. Just enough to keep a fairly consistent pressure and feel to it. I actually got hold of a cheap English (Chinese) wheel setup because I needed the deeper throat but the wheels are narrower so this one leaves a much nicer finish if you can get the piece in. I'll probably end up making a whole machine at some point, they aren't that complicated.

You'll have to get it on a diagnostic machine then, something capable of viewing live data ideally

If the light doesn't go on and off, or does so very slowly. Same as you would on a modern diagnostic scanner on a narrow band o2 sensor, but with a graph.

Thank you very much!

Sorry, I've never worked on one of those so couldn't say. Check the manual, it may be described in there.

Anticlockwise to release, clockwise to lock. Don't force it but it does require a moderate amount of force

Thanks! I still use it regularly

You know this is just for emergencies and you don't have to do it every time, right? They're electric.

Most likely batt or ig and fp, that would make the pump run full time and would bypass any relay issues. You shouldn't leave it like that as it won't be safe. This was a different kind of fault

@@jdmjesus6103 Thanks, I took the cross over wires right out as soon as she started. Runs great as always. I make sure the tank is forty or fifty percent full. Where do you find pistons and rings, it should be rebuilt sometime. Thanks for the advice, have a merry Christmas.

@@spotty67 ah that's good then. Tbh, it's been a very long time since I bought pistons for a 4age and I can't even remember where they came from! They were a very popular engine so I'd like to think parts are still available somewhere. Make sure you can get the valve shims before you start anything, they might be a tricky part to source and no doubt the head will need some work by now.

Honestly, it's not that hard. It's easier if you have a friend to help though, or call the fire brigade if needs be 😅

Thanks a lot! I put a lot of effort into this video and it's my least watched one, can't win them all I guess

In this project I used everything from 0.75mm up to 2mm, I forget what that is in gauge. I think this was either 1.0 or 1.2, in that area anyway.

Thank you very much! But it's really just lots of practice and many mistakes learned from

Thanks! Some i bought from Heritage parts centre, but I didn't buy enough, so I made the rest on my lathe.

That's great, but you've entirely missed the point of this video and what you posted is the way to check for error codes, but is irrelevant to what is in this video. You should watch it again, this is not checking for codes, it is a specific diagnostic mode for the oxygen sensors ONLY. This test mode has the light illuminate or go off as the selected bank changes from rich to lean, or vice versa. Nothing to do with error codes, that's the easy one. I couldn't find a video on this test mode, hence why I made one. Just a couple of days ago I found a way to read codes and get live data from the HICAS ecu with modern diagnostics, I haven't edited that video yet though, but it will be uploaded once I get round to it. They don't call me jdm Jesus for nothing!

If I remember correctly, there is something which can be disengaged at some point in the procedure. A white piece of plastic on a cable that spins. I think this has something to do with it. You may be able to turn it manually just to get over that initial 'sticktion'. I could be remembering it wrong though, it has been a while. It was extremely hard to lift the first time though, and I was convinced I would break it. Then it just went. Have some finesse though, it may be that I loosened it by working it rather than just brute force. Try putting the same force in different places, maybe give it a few whacks with the base of your fist to try and get things going. It could of course be actually jammed in your case so don't over-do it. I didn't take it apart but I got the impression that it was reverse driving a worm gear, hence why it is so hard to get started. Hope that helps.

I do but I can't picture it without having one in front of me. There are ways to manipulate it to get it to go back manually but it's probably a sign something has come loose like in this case. Probably best to check it out properly.

Hey mate, did they end up working being plastic and all?

@@nicolaiaquilina3824Kinda, but it’s a project I need to return to. The plastic does deform a bit so far. I think I used ASA to make these which is generally pretty tough 🫤

Oh never mind, seen the footnote, keep car in and the go turn it, so if it flashes veryyyy slow that means it’s bad?

Thanks, yes I realised that about halfway through making this video and took some shots that way, but they looked so different to the rest I had to adjust the colour back down! It looked faked otherwise. Thanks for the input though, and the sub!

@@jdmjesus6103 cool. I edit in Davinci Resolve its very easy to adjust colour balance with it. cheers from Australia