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All of the current models ( the T3, ST1, B2, Z3 ect) use all the same service kits.

Heck yeah there are! It can be cold here, but we can have some really great visibility and the fish are pretty cool too. Hope you get to dive around the Midwest soon!

Our staff loves their Atomic regulators and BCDs too. That swivel is the best.

Hello! Yes, if your B2 is environmentally sealed you should be okay to use it in cold water.

@@DiveAAI Thanks so much!

@@Sicel1304 Any time!

So glad to hear it! The b2s are great regulators.

Possibly, that was a sale we ran with permission from the manufacturer. We cannot sell this computer on sale without their permission. So it is possible that they will have this deal again, but we don't know when that would be. If you would like more information about how our pricing works you can check out Jerry's blog about MAP pricing: diveaai.com/en/blog/viewpost/65/dispelling-the-mysteries-of-online-pricing

Hey, so SeaLife no longer makes the 0.5 fisheye lens (we are sad about that too). The .75x wide angle conversion lens is not the same as the other lens but it is the closest thing they make now. The fish eye lens gave you 80% increased feild of view and the conversion lens gives you 61° from 46° if you are using the dc2000 and 81° from 61° if you are using the DC1400. Then the .75x does magnify things underwater .75 times more than with just the camera. If you would like to purchase the .75x Wide Angle Conversion Lens we do have one in stock at our store. You can purchase it through our website at: diveaai.com/shop/diving/en/product/photo/camera-lenses/sealife/0-75x-wide-angle-conversion-lens-for-dc-series-52mm-threaded-includes-sl977-52mm-thread-adapter-18428 hope this helps!

Thank you! Matt is always such a hit with our customers, and we are so lucky to have such a knowledgeable rep!

The M1 is a great regulator for cold environments. Monel parts are used internally in the first stage for high strength, corrosion-resistance and oxygen compatibility. 316 Stainless Steel, multi-layer Zirconium-coated Brass, and Titanium are used throughout the second stage. The second stage features a thermal heat sink for cold water, and a surge protected front cover and super-dry exhaust valve for rough water. Add a super-wide exhaust deflector and an exclusive heat-protecting jam nut for freeze protection to cover almost any extreme diving situation. Most of our staff dive this regulator year round in Wisconsin lakes. We use it out on Lake Michigan in 35 degree water and under the ice with confidence. The best part is you don't have to sacrifice ease of breathing for all of these features. It still breathes easy and is a quality regulator for cold water!

I use the Atomic M1, I live in Britian and they are perfect for our British waters. The octo's are superb and are identical to the primary, with the only difference being the colour of the reg. They are superb for cave diving too. I would highly recommend 👌🏻✌🏻

Hey Michael, Great question. The B2 has a comfort swivel on the first and second stage. The Z3 only has a swivel on the second stage. Most of our customers and staff like the swivel in both places because it really makes moving effortless and configuring your regulator convenient. There is very little strain when moving around with the B2 because of the swivel in both places. The B2 is essentially the same regulator as the T3 but is made with a chrome-plated Brass 1st stage. While you would be happy with either regulator that is why the B2 is the top seller over the Z3. The Z3's first stage is also made of Zirconium with a Titanium swivel on the second stage. The Zirconium is a less expensive metal than the chrome-plated Brass body of the B2's first stage. That is also why the Z3 is less expensive than the B2. If you would like to see our comparison chart head over to our website: diveaai.com/en/atomic-regulators-comparison-chart - we only have the Z2 in our store (so that is why the Z3 is not on there) this is because, as you pointed out, the Z3 and B2 are so similar. Hope this helps, Happy Diving!

Thank you for the feedback. We are always looking to improve.

Yes. And it won't take the batteries long to charge either. What we typically do is have two batteries for a day and leave one on the boat or in our car and then change it when it gets low. Then they can both be charged up for the next day.

Don'r need it

Hey Rahul, It depends on your ratio and where you are shooing, but here is the break down from SeaLife's website: 3:2 Aspect ratio: Land: 66° Diagonal (57° horizontal) Underwater: 50° Diagonal (43° horizontal) 4:3 Aspect ratio: Land: 61° Diagonal (51° horizontal) Underwater: 46° Diagonal (38° horizontal) 16.9 Aspect ratio: Land: 64° Diagonal (57° horizontal) Underwater: 48° Diagonal (43° horizontal) Hope this helps!

Good question. When you are looking at the front of the UW housing there is a little metal ring on the right hand side bottom of the housing. The neoprene wrist strap attaches to that metal ring. Don't try to use the clip to connect it. Slide the looped end of the thin black string through the metal ring. Then pull the two strings apart and pull the neoprene part through the space created between the two strings. This should loop the strap around that metal ring. Then you can use that plastic clip to clip your camera to yourself. Hope this helps!

Yes rightly said. The clip is to connect your cam to the BCD. The lanyard should go around the metal ring not the clip.

Glad you liked it! If you have any more questions about SeaLife products feel free to give our staff a call: 262-938-6827

Sorry it took us so long to get back to you. The DC2000 cannot shoot only in RAW. It can shoot in JPEG or in JPEG and RAW, so it will make a copy of both a JPEG and RAW image. We did some testing and the interval between photographs when shooting JPEG and RAW is about 5 to 8 seconds. I hope this helps! If you have any more questions about SeaLife Products please feel free to contact our staff at: 262-938-6827.

Thanks for the info. Is the new Firmware Version 1.03 already ok to install in DC2000?

They have a Beta version of the 1.03 available. Take a look at SeaLife's firmware site if you scroll to the bottom there is a link to the Beta version at the top, or the other firmware updates below that. here is the link: www.sealife-cameras.com/firmware Hope that helps!