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@Noirbreaker it still makes this sound. I think it's inside the differential. I'm going to change the u-joints, just in case. After that, I'm just going to send it until it explodes.

I got generic 8mm spacers and 7mm extended thread lugs off Amazon. I tried 5mm but they wouldn't clear. Anything thicker than 8mm and you have to install longer wheel studs. If you use any spacer, you'll need extended thread lug nuts or else you won't have anything to grip onto.

Also, if you need anything more than 8mm, you should go to the bolt-on style spacer, which we will probably do here soon.

Thank you. I just purchased the same wheels.

@GruntSmith depending on the back spacing, you may not have any clearance issues. The problem with my son's wheels is that they're all 17x9 with backspacing for the rear. If the front were 17x8 or had a different back spacing, we would be fine. Good luck.

@306foxbody1 thank you very much!

@lynnrunningdeerB4 it has started fast every time since we changed plugs and wires. It was only that first time. And yes, cheap wires can arc, but I did check for that. A few times, actually. I've never seen any evidence of it. They just seem to break off at the spark plug.

@lynnrunningdeerB4 ya. He's definitely honest. A little too honest at times. 😑

15°. I checked it. In the next video, with a fully charged battery, it cold starts with a bump of the key.

@KrisGreenhillsGarage That's on the outside. I hear it hesitate even when it's cold. None of mine has ever done this. Every expert engine builder say never trust the cam card.

@@lynnrunningdeerB4 and I welded them up. There is no way I was going through the trouble of sealing them back up the way they were. The window seals are definitely bad. Have been since long before we got the car. New seals are about 500 items down the priority list. Some day.....

@KrisGreenhillsGarage you'll be starting over because of the flux core welding long before you're finished. I'd hate to see you keep chasing this around the car. This is like fixing the floor with a leaky ceiling, pointless. Also this is just a suggestion but I would have cleaned up the factory drain plugs and RTV them back in place. $9 and probably 15 min to clean with no heating and causing the metal to rust later😁.

@lynnrunningdeerB4 the factory plugs were so rotten that they fell apart in our hands. I punched a hole through one with my finger.

@KrisGreenhillsGarage I seen you pull it up and rip the old seal. I'll go back and rewatch it. Also I'm talking about the oval plugs in the floorboards.

@KrisGreenhillsGarage only one of them. The other was fine. Between the two of us, surely this will gain more views🤷‍♀️.

@lynnrunningdeer7364 no, the light turns off. I had the door open. The initial timing is 16°. Sometimes it starts easily, sometimes it doesn't. It does that same at 12°. It runs horribly below 16°. I'm pretty sure the starter is just dying. The Flowmaster mufflers don't have that odd piping design. I don't know what those mufflers are, but they're going away soon.

@@lynnrunningdeerB4 he does. But we had to get the car together and let it rip on a test drive real quick. We were out of time.

​@@KrisGreenhillsGarageNeither one of you are dead so how did you run out of time?

@lynnrunningdeer7364 We had other things to do. This stuff cost us time and money with no return other than fun. But we had other obligations, so we ran it down the road a couple of miles and moved on. We often have a very finite amount of time to work on these cars, which is why mine still doesn't move.

It's the same cam. This is the 1st cam in the 1st engine we built. No, it's never been degreed. I promise I will if I ever take the front timing cover off.

​@@KrisGreenhillsGarageBetter safe than sorry. Chris's car still sounds like pre detonation🤨. Every pro engine builder I've seen or follow all say the same thing. Degree it because even Howard's has been off several degrees. Even if you have it special ground, check it. The price of the degree wheel and gasket is cheaper than another engine. However it is your vehicle and money🤷‍♀️. Good luck.

@lynnrunningdeer7364 Sometimes, it is slow to start. Other times, it fires with a bump of the key. You would've been proud. The last time I cold started it, it fired instantly. Other times, not so much. The plugs are looking healthier, and there is no detonation at wide open. Of course, right now, we couldn't hear it if there were because of how loud it is inside without an interior.

It just hesitates. Lowering the timing didn't help. It just slow starts. I don't know if it's the starter or not. Sometimes it fires instantly, and sometimes it hesitates. No temperature or any other variable seems to matter.

@lynnrunningdeer7364 ya, it was running well, but it still definitely has some intermittent missing. We are narrowing down the issue. I'm starting to think that it's the secondaries not opening quick enough when going from no input to wide open throttle. I may try a spring kit for the carb.

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage I asked earlier if you degreed the cam in? Every cam expert says "never trust the cam card". I know it would be a pain to do now, however extra time and a lil money is cheaper than another engine. Food for thought.

@lynnrunningdeer7364 no, I did not degree the cam. It is just installed straight up as advertised. If there is a reason to open the front of the engine up, I may do it then.

@@lynnrunningdeerB4 I'm telling you, he is holding my hostage!

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage He's holding your car hostage🤔?

@lynnrunningdeer7364 *blinks 12 times* The boy is holding me hostage!!! Send help!!!

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage looks like he's being held hostage instead😅.

@lynnrunningdeer7364 I have an auto-dark electric hood, but it was dead. That's what I need to weld somewhat decently. When it's dead, I have to do it blind. I'm not a real welder, so anytime I can't see what I'm doing, my 3/10 welds turn into 1/10 welds real quick.

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage I take it, it's solar powered🤷‍♀️? It may be cheaper to get one with the flip down visor. It's guaranteed not to die😅. I have both types of hoods and a pair of goggles😁.

@lynnrunningdeer7364 I have an electric hood and goggles. The goggles don't do much of anything. You'd go blind using them. The hood is great when it's charged. I've tried regular hoods, but I'm not a good welder. If I can't see, you get welds like this.

I can't. That would require an all new input shaft and bearing retainer. This is the path of least resistance. Or at least the cheapest path.

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage What happened to the original one?

@lynnrunningdeer7364 this is the original input shaft. It's an SN95 transmission and bellhousing from a 94-95 Mustang.

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage that never came with that car. For the life of me I can't remember what happened to my T5 when I switched to the TKO 600. Seems like that I had to change the bell housing as well along with the crossmember.

@@lynnrunningdeerB4 it didn't come in a foxbody, but it's a fairly common swap. It's the same transmission with a different input shaft and bellhousing for the longer SN95 car. It was in another foxbody and worked fine. I just have to make the adjustments, which I didn't know I needed to make until after I tried to install it.

@xovezFN thanks!!! Sorry about the whole name thing. 😆 Come work with us and maybe I'll remember your name. 😛

@lynnrunningdeer7364 I don't have an AFR gauge. It's on the list. Someday. And yes, I know spinning throws grease, but I've always used grease on the throw out bearing without issue. I packed it in the bearing a lot better off camera. It isn't just a huge wad randomly thrown in there. It shouldn't get on the friction surface of the disk or pressure plate.

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage I thought that you left it like that😅. Also is there a photo where you got the clutch from? They usually lay them out how they're supposed to go🤷‍♀️. I think it's in correctly though. Mainly because the other way it was off the flywheel. I don't understand why the newer model bell housing though🤔? Is it for clearance issues? I know when I upgraded mine that I had to buy another crossmember because the original one was too far forward. I made my own for the 84 SS that's still sitting😒.

@@lynnrunningdeerB4 I didn't get the SN95 transmission and bellhousing intentionally. They came off a 1991 Mustang. I know the guy I bought it from. He bought the car with it already installed. He didn't know it was an SN95 because everything was already done when he got it. And I didn't notice until it was time to install it.

@lynnrunningdeer7364 also, I may have to modify the cross member because this thing sits back more than an inch from where a foxbody T5 sits. We shall see......

I am very proud of them.

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage 😊. I know nothing about 8.8 besides I don't care for them. My 93 got stolen before I changed out the read end for the second time😡.

You overfilled the rear. The fill on some aftermarket covers is just a more convenient location to add oil. It is much higher than the proper fill level. You still need to open the factory plug while you add oil to get the right level. That is not brake fluid on your axel it’s gear oil from the rear breather, because the rear is overfilled.

@@lynnrunningdeerB4 yup. It needs seals all the way around. If we could keep it from trying to light on fire and destroying brakes for a while, we'll swap those out. All the seals and trim were slotted to be done a while back. But other things keep making us fix them first.

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage I don't recall if they have the rubber adjustable feet or not. It's been a long time ago😒. Also, you'll never get it done while driving it because something else is always gonna go wrong. I've learned that the hard way.

@jdrods1519 ya, it really did. You always hear about over-carbing, but I think it's under-carbed. I took some bad advice and used too small of a carb.

@@lynnrunningdeerB4 I don't know what you mean. I use a choke. I had it set about 75% closed at the start. But it's 105°. It didn't take long to open.

​@@KrisGreenhillsGaragethey generally set closer than that. Ford's are notoriously cold natured and the fuel level is supposed to be at the very bottom of the sight plug😁.

​@@KrisGreenhillsGarage5:43 back too high and the front's too low unless they changed it because it's supposed to sit at the very bottom. 7:12 choke is open too far and in the future, you can prefill the bowls through the vent tubes.

You called this one. I set the timing way too high. My guess is it accidentally got spun up too high while tightening it down. It was running really well. But when I rolled up the window to listen to the rear-end, I thought I heard a tiny bit of detonation. I checked the plugs today. They were lean. So I used the bore-scope inside the cylinders and there were detonation signs. So I dialed it down. Still running well. Caught it before causing real damage.

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage 🤗. See, I'm good for something😅.

@@lynnrunningdeerB4 so I can move it.

@@KrisGreenhillsGarage then have to put it back in the air again for all the lines. Work smarter not harder😅.

@lynnrunningdeer7364 but if I leave it in the air just because I have to lift it later, I can't move it. Now I can move it. Besides, I put a car up in the air weekly. It isn't exactly hard.

@@jdrods1519 ya, it was a pucker moment. Thanks.